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How to install the gas spring for the main blade assembly

 

While performing maintenance on my K975, I noticed the gas spring for the main blade assembly was leaking. I ordered a replacement and am now trying to reattach it. The spring is rated at 400NM and requires approximately 100 pounds of force to compress the needed one inch.
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I’ve considered a few methods for compression, such as using a K Body clamp or a ratcheting strap, but both have drawbacks. Another option is further disassembling the saw to gain the necessary leverage, though that presents its own challenges.
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Has anyone replaced this spring before or knows the best procedure?
 

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Wow, I don’t envy you. I am not in the shop but that looks difficult. The only thing I can think of is really strong zip tight. Upon assembly you can simply cut them. If you go slowly towards the final length you will not go over. It should be easy to compress it outside with K Body clamp.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 31, 2025, at 5:32?PM, marrtw via groups.io <tmarr8@...> wrote:

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While performing maintenance on my K975, I noticed the gas spring for the main blade assembly was leaking. I ordered a replacement and am now trying to reattach it. The spring is rated at 400NM and requires approximately 100 pounds of force to compress the needed one inch.
?
I’ve considered a few methods for compression, such as using a K Body clamp or a ratcheting strap, but both have drawbacks. Another option is further disassembling the saw to gain the necessary leverage, though that presents its own challenges.
?
Has anyone replaced this spring before or knows the best procedure?
 

Haven't seen this particular installation, but I have used gas springs quite a bit. The one I have purchased from Guden come compress and then tied off with some heavy string, looped from end to end and then knotted.

It allows you to install at a shorter distance between eye to eye and then you can cut the string after installation. If you can compress the spring while it's still installed, then wrap it to remove tension, then you should be able to uninstall it.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Friday, January 31, 2025 at 03:32:43 PM MST, marrtw via groups.io <tmarr8@...> wrote:


While performing maintenance on my K975, I noticed the gas spring for the main blade assembly was leaking. I ordered a replacement and am now trying to reattach it. The spring is rated at 400NM and requires approximately 100 pounds of force to compress the needed one inch.
?
I’ve considered a few methods for compression, such as using a K Body clamp or a ratcheting strap, but both have drawbacks. Another option is further disassembling the saw to gain the necessary leverage, though that presents its own challenges.
?
Has anyone replaced this spring before or knows the best procedure?
 

It's done. Took about five hours. I had a friend helping me, so I didn't have time to properly document the process with photos. To do the job again would take about an hour I'd guess.
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Simplified Explanation

Loosen the nut at the rear of the handle to allow some movement to the right. Remove the screw securing the motor mount to the handle; this screw is attached to a length of hex bar stock. Push the handle to the right to disengage the motor mount, allowing it to drop and release pressure on the gas spring for easy removal.

Attach the gas spring, then pivot the handle back up and secure it to the motor mount. The hex bar stock on the motor mount has a protrusion that fits into a corresponding hole in the handle. Reattach the screw to the hex stock to lock the handle in place. Finally, tighten the rear pivot nut—ensuring it remains slightly loose to allow some movement.

Job complete.

While the table was elevated, I decided to remove the motor and replace the bearings. The front bearing was slightly noisy, and I want to avoid raising the table again if possible. The motor on my saw uses two 6206Z C3-grade bearings, but I’ll likely replace them with 2RS bearings, as they generally offer better sealing.

The rear bell housing is secured with a C-clip from the inside (relatively rare), which must be removed before the bell housing can be detached. Additionally, the fan is press-fitted onto the motor shaft and must be removed carefully to prevent damage, as it is made of glass-reinforced plastic. To protect the fan, I used a flat bar with a U-shaped cutout to distribute force more evenly while prying it off.

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