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Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks Brian! It¡¯s beginning to make sense.

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 12:45 PM, croz1950@... wrote:

?Imran,
Thanks I would like to see that.

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 10:52 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

?Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it¡¯s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Joe,

This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don¡¯t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.

A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don¡¯t ask how I know this.
Joe







Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Imran,
Thanks I would like to see that.

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 10:52 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

?Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it¡¯s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Joe,

This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don¡¯t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.

A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don¡¯t ask how I know this.
Joe







Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Chris,

Here are couple of images. I am using prolock caps so you should measure your cap.

Measure protrusion on the underside of cap (illustration pic as I cannot hold caliper properly while taking pic).
image0.jpeg

In my case it is about 5mm
image1.jpeg

Measure the recess depth of the spindle
image2.jpeg

I am not an expert to state how much more depth you should have but I see Brian¡¯s response so will defer to that.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:07 AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote:

?Responding to Imran¡¯s post.?
First, thank you for this information and explanation¡­but shouldn¡¯t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me¡­and too prone to operator error.
My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool?
Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input.
Chris?

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:

?Hi David, that¡¯s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.

If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25¡±, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.

I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25¡± cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful¡­¡­..Regards, Rod

Regards, Rod


Re: 3 phase high leg placement

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks for that Rod. The Felder tech I spoke with yesterday told me that 99% of the time the manufactured leg will go to Line 2 on the machine (usually brown wire). I will try you method to verify. ?I have attached the wiring diagram from my F700 shaper, any chance you could explain how one might decipher where the manufactured ?leg should go based on the diagram? Thank you ?











On Jun 29, 2023, at 6:22 PM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:

Hi, the issue is to determine which 2 phases the control power supplies for the machine are connected to, you want those two lines connected to the non manufactured line of the phase converter.

If you have a true digital phase converter (rectifier/inverter) then it doesn¡¯t matter, if you have a rotary converter it does matter.

You can check the drawing for your machine however I normally use a DVM to verify it.

1) unplug the machine, or open the breaker in the distribution panel

2) using AC Volts on the meter verify that you have no power in the machine

3) close (Turn on) the disconnect switch for the machine

4) using Ohms function on the DVM measure Phase A to Phase B, Phase A to phase C, and Phase B to Phase C

5) only one of those pairs will have continuity, maybe 10 to 100 ohms, this pair is the one with the control power supplies, it must be fed from the non manufactured line

6) you now need to either one of the control power leads in the machine to the non manufactured phase or reverse one pair of phases in the machine plug (doesn¡¯t matter which pair)

7) If your machine motor goes backwards after changing the plug above, interchange one pair of wires going to the motor to reverse rotation, it doesn¡¯t matter which pair.


Regards, Rod



Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Set up is pretty simple on the shaper spindle. Use a pair of calipers and check the step on the cap, say it¡¯s 8mm, then just make sure the space from the top ring down to the actual shaper spindle is at least 1mm longer than the step on the cap. Tighten securely and you should never have a problem. None of this eyeball crap, just measure and make sure.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Jul 1, 2023, at 6:50 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Joe,

This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don¡¯t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.

A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don¡¯t ask how I know this.
Joe







Re: AD941 installing fence support bar

 

Wade,

I think the round bar was installed on my AD741 when it was delivered, that is why I cannot find the install instruction in the AD741 manual.

Felder might have adjusted the round bar installation. But either way, that is not?a major problem. You can just do what AD941 describes.

James?

On Sat, Jul 1, 2023 at 12:25 AM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
James,

The manual is showing the backside washers as being called ball socket 1 & 2.? See picture, circled in red.? No signs of the larger diameter washers being used. ?

The ball socket like washers have corresponding concave faces that fit into one another.? Not sure why they have this shape to them. ?

Wade

image0.jpeg

On Jun 30, 2023, at 8:49 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?
Wade,

larger?washers are used on the backside of the casting. If my memory?serves me correctly, it is a washer (not a split washer) like the one in your picture sitting between the casting and the nut.?

IMG_3501.JPG

James

On Fri, Jun 30, 2023 at 11:29?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
James,

Thank you for your help.? In that first picture, is that a split washer sitting between the casting and the nut?? And it looks like you did use the larger washers in the second picture on the backside of the casting.

Thx,

Wade



On Jun 30, 2023, at 7:33 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?
Wade,

I have AD741, I believe the support bar is the same as AD941's. The description on the manual is correct, it is sort of German English :)


IMG_3500.JPG
IMG_3499.JPG

James

On Fri, Jun 30, 2023 at 9:51?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Hello FOG members,

Could someone with an AD941 chime in on the proper assembly order for the support bar hardware.? Felder shows one thing in the manual, but then supplies the bar with these ¡°spacers¡± that came already on the threaded rod.? Not sure if I remove these spacers or use them.? You can see them circled in red.? And, according to the manual, it appears that I don¡¯t use the large washers at all.? Maybe these were for shipping purposes only.?

Thank You,

Wade


Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Joe,

This is what I was trying to caution against. In my situation, that I shared, the rings did not turn by hand check as you describe. Could be that my grip is not strong but I am rather fit. There was pressure but not sufficient. I know it was a freak situation but can happen.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don¡¯t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.

A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don¡¯t ask how I know this.
Joe






Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

To expand on set up .?
Always use all safety precautions on test runs . I always shake the snot out of everything ,,,fence ,,,feeder before I turn the machine on.?
When doing larger operation ?i approach like an Olympian ?and visualize the whole process .Ie radius work ?with out a feeder.
Mac,,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:29 AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don¡¯t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.

A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don¡¯t ask how I know this.
Joe






Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Chris,

There is a scientific/engineering explanation:

The recess (mentioned in my post) shall be greater than the raised part under the cap. Both can be measured. I can post pics when I am in the shop later.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 9:07 AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote:

?Responding to Imran¡¯s post.?
First, thank you for this information and explanation¡­but shouldn¡¯t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me¡­and too prone to operator error.
My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool?
Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input.
Chris?

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:

?Hi David, that¡¯s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.

If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25¡±, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.

I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25¡± cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful¡­¡­..Regards, Rod

Regards, Rod


Re: Couple more questions

 

A very simple method to avoid a spun shaft is to get in the habit of griping the shaft by the spacers and or cutter before turning on the machine to make sure they don¡¯t turn. Now in the case of using bushings on adjustable groovers you have to be more careful as the spacers could be tight but you could have movement in one of the groovers. Using bushing with these should be avoided if possibly.

A spun shaft will make a particular noise when starting up. If you can recognize this and shut down right away you can usually avoid damage. Don¡¯t ask how I know this.
Joe


Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Chris?
You have good reason to be concerned shaper work as all work with machine tools and cutters is dangerous. No rings no loss clothing clean spindle and cutters , safety glasses of course. Full body cutters !
The advantage he is mass and ease of operation , high quality cut .?
Start simple,,, 5¡± rebar block and work you way up. Most work in general is. Don w ith ?rebate cutters and groovers.?
Leave round overs to dedicated hand routers!



martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:07 AM, Christopher Rozycki <croz1950@...> wrote:

?Responding to Imran¡¯s post.?
First, thank you for this information and explanation¡­but shouldn¡¯t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me¡­and too prone to operator error.
My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool?
Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input.
Chris?

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:

?Hi David, that¡¯s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.

If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25¡±, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.

I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25¡± cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful¡­¡­..Regards, Rod

Regards, Rod


Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Responding to Imran¡¯s post.?
First, thank you for this information and explanation¡­but shouldn¡¯t there be a clear and scientific/engineering based explanation of how to set this tool up correctly? It all sounds too touchy feely for me¡­and too prone to operator error.
My C3-31 has been great, but I am still trying to complete the transition from my great shop made router table to the somewhat scary spindle shaper. Not to mention, the spindle shaper on the C3-31 seems less flexible than my router table. Am I wrong? Or just not understanding how to use this tool?
Thanks for any feedback, advice, and input.
Chris?

Chris Rozycki?

On Jul 1, 2023, at 8:40 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:

?Hi David, that¡¯s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.

If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25¡±, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.

I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25¡± cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful¡­¡­..Regards, Rod

Regards, Rod


Re: Couple more questions

 

Hi David, that¡¯s true of the Felder spindles, however the Hammer MF spindle is in two pieces, the bearings, pulley and belt remain in the machine, only the top section of the spindle comes out.

If you want to use bushings with the Hammer spindle you would have to use the 30mm spindle and bush it to 1.25¡±, which is 31.75mm, which is a pretty thin bushing.

I find it convenient to share cutters with the saw, requiring the 30mm spindle, and I have a selection of 1.25¡± cutters so for me, having 2 spindles is useful¡­¡­..Regards, Rod

Regards, Rod


Re: AD941 installing fence support bar

 

I just received my AD941, and this is what I did (not that it is correct). I used the spacers to ensure a consistent distance for both the left and right attachment points, and I figured that would better ensure that the jointer fence was perpendicular to the cutterhead. I did not use the big washers on the backside but rather the two washers ("ball socket 1" and "ball socket 2") that have one side each that is concave/convex and fit effectively "inside" each other.


Re: AD941 installing fence support bar

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Wade,

Those are spherical washers. They are used when irregular surfaces are involved. They will shift relative to each other as opposed to deforming.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 12:25 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

?
James,

The manual is showing the backside washers as being called ball socket 1 & 2. ?See picture, circled in red. ?No signs of the larger diameter washers being used. ?

The ball socket like washers have corresponding concave faces that fit into one another. ?Not sure why they have this shape to them. ?

Wade

<image0.jpeg>


On Jun 30, 2023, at 8:49 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?
Wade,

larger?washers are used on the backside of the casting. If my memory?serves me correctly, it is a washer (not a split washer) like the one in your picture sitting between the casting and the nut.?

<IMG_3501.JPG>

James

On Fri, Jun 30, 2023 at 11:29?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
James,

Thank you for your help.? In that first picture, is that a split washer sitting between the casting and the nut?? And it looks like you did use the larger washers in the second picture on the backside of the casting.

Thx,

Wade



On Jun 30, 2023, at 7:33 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?
Wade,

I have AD741, I believe the support bar is the same as AD941's. The description on the manual is correct, it is sort of German English :)


<IMG_3500.JPG>

<IMG_3499.JPG>


James

On Fri, Jun 30, 2023 at 9:51?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Hello FOG members,

Could someone with an AD941 chime in on the proper assembly order for the support bar hardware.? Felder shows one thing in the manual, but then supplies the bar with these ¡°spacers¡± that came already on the threaded rod.? Not sure if I remove these spacers or use them.? You can see them circled in red.? And, according to the manual, it appears that I don¡¯t use the large washers at all.? Maybe these were for shipping purposes only.?

Thank You,

Wade


Re: Couple more questions

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Most if not all know this but for new comers to shapers I would?add one point to David¡¯s warning. This has been mentioned here many times but is worth repeating as it can be, as David said, an expensive mistake.

One can?spin-weld the cutter, as David mentioned, by not having the cutter sufficiently tightened. Sometimes it is insufficient torque on the nut and other times this happens when the spindle is not sufficiently recessed in the rings and the locking cap bottoms out by hitting the spindle. In this case, locking cap is physically touching the spindle. This should never happen as the cap is unable to apply appropriate downward force on the rings to prevent the cutter from spinning.

I have no data to prove this but my gut feeling is that most users over tighten the nut so spin-welding is more likely to happen as described above when the cap contacts the spindle.

The main reason I am writing this, it is very deceiving, at least to me, to visually gauge the recess created by the rings. I have made it a habit to always stack rings such that I have the tallest ring on top, this in itself does not do squat to prevent the problem but it helps me gauge the depth easier. I can gauge the shaft protrusion before I place the last ring much better than the recess inside the rings. Since I use the same ring (99% of the times) as my last ring, over time, I have developed a good sense of how much of the spindle should be sticking up before I place the last tall ring.

This is not rocket science but an easy and expensive mistake to make. Alway go with more recess whenever it looks questionable. This is really important because this is where it will bite you. The rings and cutter will appear secure and the cutter will even cut. This is what happened to me. The cutter was cutting but it stopped mid cut. I was lucky no welding occurred. This was over 20 yrs ago.

Happy profiling.

Imran Malik

On Jul 1, 2023, at 12:14 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

?Joe makes some excellent points as always. ?In my case, the only stacked cutter sets I use with bushings are 4¡± (100mm) Freeborn braised carbide units, and I have dedicated bushings that are always kept with those cutters specifically to avoid confusion. ?I do stack other larger mass cutters, but those are all properly sized to the spindle and do not require bushings. ?

And to Joe¡¯s point, I have stacked 220mm 30mm tall rebate cutters for tenoning operations, and spin-welded one of them to the spindle because I didn¡¯t sufficiently tighten the spindle cap. ?Those cutters were not bushed, but it was an expensive lesson nonetheless since it required replacement of both the spindle and one of the cutters. ?I did get the spindle pressed out of the cutters at a machine shop, but the spindle was so badly scored that it couldn¡¯t ?be salvaged, and one of the cutters was trashed in the pressing operation. ?Others here have lamented the same experience, so at least I¡¯m not alone in my ¡°early years¡± sloppy workflow.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best





On Jun 30, 2023, at 8:54 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

I use a lot of bushings even though all my shafts change very quickly. Most of my runs are short. If a long run I change the shaft. One place I don¡¯t like to use bushings is stacked cutters like door sets and adjustable groovers. Using bushings on these gets confusing and prone to getting a spun cutter. If you need to bush these it¡¯s better to use an unthreaded sleeve.







Re: Cf741 rip fence issues

 

Thanks for the input Alex.


On Fri, 30 Jun 2023 at 17:57, Alex Bowlds
<aabj@...> wrote:
Hi Simon,

I can¡¯t tell how far off the part is from ¡°flat¡± from the photo. ?But it looks like there may be enough material to machine the part so that it is flat. ?This might be an option if a replacement is not available. ?I am also wondering if part of the problem might be how it is attached to the base. ?Was it originally too wide where it is bolted to the base, and squeezed into place, causing the bend. ?It looks like a piece of cast steel or cast iron. ?They are prone to breakage if they are stressed too much, but they will bend, to a point.

Good luck,

Alex


On Jun 30, 2023, at 4:00 AM, smo_motion via groups.io <smo_motion@...> wrote:

Hi there,
We have noticed that our casting on this 2007 cf741s rip fence is massively out of square. Is this by design??

Thanks

Simon

<20230630_115557.jpg>


Re: A Question For Martin Owners

 

Hi Joe

I have mounted the felder adjustable Dado onto the arbor in the T70.? I have the Pro-Lock system on the?T70 and the mounting feels solid. Fingers crossed.? ?I have entered the dado in the tool catalogue with the best description and sizes that I could come up with.? The job at hand is grooving doors.? So the first picture of the three you sent is what I want to do.? When I try to angel the dado I get a popup indicating that angling the blade is not permitted.? Nothing in the manual discusses angling wider tools.? How did you get around the issue?? I have considered just not telling the Martin what I have mounted and seeing what happens.

Hoping for a solution...

Warm Regards
Clinton

On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 10:44?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

Clint, I run a 250mm diameter adj groover in my T72 and remove the pins. Not something I use a lot but never had an issue with it coming loose on breaking. Also had my Systmatic dado rebored for this one and did not put pin holes in that. This one only takes 35mm of width for shaper cutters. I run bigger on the T17 but it doesn¡¯t have braking.
I assume you are talking about the old T70 that is similar to my T72?






Re: AD941 installing fence support bar

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

James,

The manual is showing the backside washers as being called ball socket 1 & 2. ?See picture, circled in red. ?No signs of the larger diameter washers being used. ?

The ball socket like washers have corresponding concave faces that fit into one another. ?Not sure why they have this shape to them. ?

Wade

image0.jpeg

On Jun 30, 2023, at 8:49 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?
Wade,

larger?washers are used on the backside of the casting. If my memory?serves me correctly, it is a washer (not a split washer) like the one in your picture sitting between the casting and the nut.?

IMG_3501.JPG

James

On Fri, Jun 30, 2023 at 11:29?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
James,

Thank you for your help.? In that first picture, is that a split washer sitting between the casting and the nut?? And it looks like you did use the larger washers in the second picture on the backside of the casting.

Thx,

Wade



On Jun 30, 2023, at 7:33 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?
Wade,

I have AD741, I believe the support bar is the same as AD941's. The description on the manual is correct, it is sort of German English :)


IMG_3500.JPG
IMG_3499.JPG

James

On Fri, Jun 30, 2023 at 9:51?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Hello FOG members,

Could someone with an AD941 chime in on the proper assembly order for the support bar hardware.? Felder shows one thing in the manual, but then supplies the bar with these ¡°spacers¡± that came already on the threaded rod.? Not sure if I remove these spacers or use them.? You can see them circled in red.? And, according to the manual, it appears that I don¡¯t use the large washers at all.? Maybe these were for shipping purposes only.?

Thank You,

Wade


Re: Couple more questions

 

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Joe makes some excellent points as always. ?In my case, the only stacked cutter sets I use with bushings are 4¡± (100mm) Freeborn braised carbide units, and I have dedicated bushings that are always kept with those cutters specifically to avoid confusion. ?I do stack other larger mass cutters, but those are all properly sized to the spindle and do not require bushings. ?

And to Joe¡¯s point, I have stacked 220mm 30mm tall rebate cutters for tenoning operations, and spin-welded one of them to the spindle because I didn¡¯t sufficiently tighten the spindle cap. ?Those cutters were not bushed, but it was an expensive lesson nonetheless since it required replacement of both the spindle and one of the cutters. ?I did get the spindle pressed out of the cutters at a machine shop, but the spindle was so badly scored that it couldn¡¯t ?be salvaged, and one of the cutters was trashed in the pressing operation. ?Others here have lamented the same experience, so at least I¡¯m not alone in my ¡°early years¡± sloppy workflow.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
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On Jun 30, 2023, at 8:54 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

I use a lot of bushings even though all my shafts change very quickly. Most of my runs are short. If a long run I change the shaft. One place I don¡¯t like to use bushings is stacked cutters like door sets and adjustable groovers. Using bushings on these gets confusing and prone to getting a spun cutter. If you need to bush these it¡¯s better to use an unthreaded sleeve.