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Can’t they be printed solid, that way they could be made long and the saw cuts it to length for a closer fit, thats why i like them in wood, easy refresh when worn. Or maybe a design where you can

Bill, I can’t answer that as I don’t have that version of machine either. I can tell you that the spud that goes into the fence extrusion should measure 1.445” x 1.085” to fit perfectly into

That is kind of what I did already, the measurements were supposed to be 1.585” and I designed at 1.625 with 3mm of the end of the stop printed solid. That way they could be trimmed back and be ok.

Sorry Elwin,

Does it not work to print them long and let the saw cut off the excess so one size fits all? Dave ________________________________ Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2022 10:23 AM To:

Would it make sense to just run it long and trim once installed? This would give a true zero clearance. Fred Rossi _____________________ Fred Rossi 617.905.6497 www.studiorossi.us

What should the final dimension be Erwin? I don’t have a saw to test it on. Should the step be the same length as the DRO model Brian? Thanks Bill Belanger

Brian, How about remodeling the STL to be too long and then when people print, they can do a modifier on the print settings and print just the extension part of it with 90-95% infill and just cut to

If you want to measure as best you can to the blade, I can create the STL files for different lengths, the 1 5/8” would be too long by David Best measurements, but obviously not all machines are the

Yes I printed mine and found it was about one half inch tooo short of the blade. I will half to glue on and addition. Elwin Sent from Mail for Windows Sent: January 10, 2022 6:58 PM To:

I have a number of item that are surplus or finishing rebuild / refurbishment and would like to give list members 1st opportunity before I list them elsewhere. 1 no 200mm 8" Whitehill tenoning disc

You all might want to measure from the end of the fence extrusion to the blade first, seems some folks are saying their unit is not 1 5/8”, so that might have to vary. Brian Lamb blamb11@...

I have received several shipments from felder - some with damaged crating but most without. They were always good to work with and very helpful - while i know there are horror stories it just wasnt my

KRP, Regarding your question about inspecting at the terminal, I'll copy and paste again the explicit instructions from Felder regarding receiving goods: *Taking the time needed to properly inspect

Bill: Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a “perfect” Felder green (just joshing on the color). Terry

Shimmdog, sorry for all your going through and thank you for sharing your experience.? Am expecting several pieces of equipment later this month including a K700S and your experience hits close to

Good idea, wax would work. The Castrol stick is kind of like beeswax, wintertime it’s somewhat firm, and summer around here it’s almost an oil. I use it to lube blades when I’m cutting aluminum,

I printed in PLA as it’s what I have and I don’t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don’t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount

As a general rule I have always avoided using oil or grease on anything above the table surface, fine adjuster screws excepted. For the spindle shaft collars and block bores a soft furniture wax, the

What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?