Re: 99 VR6 AES fuel injectors
maybe send them to someone who cleans and services them?? I sent my Vanagon injectors to Mr. Injector in Idaho and they were tested and cleaned and are still running well 10's of thousands of miles later.? One of the 4 I sent was tested bad so I just replaced that one.? His fee was very reasonable and quick turnaround.
Not sure on the VR6 though.? I haven't hit that snag yet on mine but I would probably do the same and send them for service.?
jacques
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99 VR6 AES fuel injectors
Good morning all,
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I have a 99 with VR6 12 valve AES engine.? I had a fuel injector crap out on me over the summer.? I have pretty much quit using the van since then, but I need to get the van back on the road here soon.? So I am faced with the dilemma of just replace one injector or replace all 6?? I have replaced some in the past with used injectors.? This one that failed was replaced once already with a used one, about 7 -10 years ago.? You get into needing new o rings etc and all of that adds up if just replacing one injector.? Plus, when is the next high mileage injector going to fail?
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I am a little bit sick over the price of a set of new injectors from FCP Euro.? A set of six, stock Magneti Marelli injectors is upwards of $700.? But to replace one on the van that has had several used ones used to replace bad ones in the past, and I am at 240K miles, I feel like maybe the best option is to replace all six with new injectors.
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Does anyone know of a new set available for private sale?? Maybe in your stash and you have moved up to a 24 valve engine?? I know it is a long shot.
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Let me know on any advice you have relating to this subject.? I have changed them before and I will do it again this time.? It is not a super huge job but a big enough job that I am not sure that I want to do it again after this.
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Thanks,
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Mark
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Spot on! Took me forever to figure out what was happening when G22 failed (7 years ago)...?
Vehicle goes into Limp Mode because of erratic data off G22 doers not correlate to Tranny speed G68...? Can't accelerate...
Pull to the side of the road and one can accelerate the engine normally...
Speedometer bouncing erratically...
A good way to test if this issue is to disconnect G22, and drive. Problem goes away...
Also a good way to drive around if you can't get G22 right away and need to use the vehicle...
Of course, no speedometer reading, but some times ya gotta do what ya gotta do!
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help can't remove fuse box off "ears" 02
working on replacing driver side wiring harness but am snagged on removing fuse box off the holding brkt. I have unclipped the two holding clips and can lift the right side of box out of the cradle but left side will not lift up at all. Seems like something above on that side is preventing it from being able to lift up. any suggestions? Thanks all.
Spencer
02 mvwk
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Ok, finally defeated it.
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For those who need have the bouncing speedometer in the future, here is what I learned.
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- Jack up front of van and slide under.
- Once you can see the exhaust manifold, you are far enough back
- On top of the transmission, next to the exhaust pipe, there is a fabric heat shield
- At the bottom of the heat shield is a slit that is snapped together.? Unsnap it and push it up the wire
- There is the VSS.
- Remove the wire bys sliding the top rectangle to the side.? It doesn't lift up as I assumed.? Once you have slid off the plastic lock, the wires unplug easily by lifting up.? The plastic lock is a U shaped lock that clamps the wires onto the sensor
- Unscrew the sensor and screw in the new one
- Attach the wires and push the lock back on
- Pull down the heat shield and snap the bottom
The Bentley was useless for this job.? I don't know how I got lucky and figured out the the lock slides to the side.? Next time I do it, it is a 15 minute job
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--Stephen
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On 09/23/2024 5:21 PM EDT Stephen Jackson <register@...> wrote:
?
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Finally getting around to replacing the VSS. ?I found it but I can’t figure out how remove the electrical connector. ?
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How do you manipulate those 2 wire bails? ? Please let me know the technique
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Stephen?
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On Mar 26, 2023, at 3:01?PM, Stephen Jackson <register@...> wrote:
Yeah, forgot to mention that it is an 02. ?Thanks for the instructions, will order one this week when I get back home. ?
?
Missing the cruise control
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Stephen
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On Mar 26, 2023, at 8:47 AM, Carl Hansen via groups.io <CARL_HANSEN@...> wrote:
Classic G22 failure.
Assuming you have the 01P automatic, this is the correct part #: 357919149
Available from Mark at germanautoparts.com... Call him... doesn't show if you search for it.
Easily accessed from underneath...
- remove belly pan
- jack up front if you need easier access (or ramps or a hole...)
- on top the right side differential.
- you'll see a heat shield over the wires/connector
- pull connector...
- unscrew sensor...
- reverse instructions to instal new one.
Ch
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SUCCESSFUL $7 FIX FOR RUNAWAY DOOR LOCKS!
A previous post linked to YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaOL6XeX8JU) with the clever idea of installing a simple spring to solve the issue of locks going up and down uncontrollably—an issue normally requiring expensive hours of door panel removal and troubleshooting—but did not suggest a source for the spring. After a couple of trials I found a spring on Amazon ( $7.19 for set of 10) that works great! The inside diameter was slightly too small, but I could easily unwind the light gauge spring with enough force to widen it so it slides up and down on the knob easily and does not go down into the knob hole on the door rim. Furthermore, it was not clear from the video if this would fully restore the remote lock and unlock capability, so I was delighted to find out it does! (Not sure why it works, but I'll take it.)
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One additional tip: To gain access to the van without setting off the runaway locks, simply disconnect the battery, use your manual key to unlock the driver's door (the only lock that permits this on my 2002 MV), then go inside to remove the passenger side knob, install the spring, replace the knob, reconnect the battery, and ... voila, full lock functionality restored in minutes for seven bucks and change!
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Yeah my finger’s aren’t strong enough. Going to have to figure out a tool to compress them. ?Wonder if a small c clamp would fit in there
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On Sep 23, 2024, at 3:25?PM, Duane <txpigeon@...> wrote:
? On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 04:22 PM, Stephen Jackson wrote:
How do you manipulate those 2 wire bails?
Squeeze them together to unlatch the bottom edge.? Sometimes it helps to push the connector on a bit while trying.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 04:22 PM, Stephen Jackson wrote:
How do you manipulate those 2 wire bails?
Squeeze them together to unlatch the bottom edge.? Sometimes it helps to push the connector on a bit while trying.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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Finally getting around to replacing the VSS. ?I found it but I can’t figure out how remove the electrical connector. ?
How do you manipulate those 2 wire bails? ? Please let me know the technique
Stephen?
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Show quoted text
On Mar 26, 2023, at 3:01?PM, Stephen Jackson <register@...> wrote:
? Yeah, forgot to mention that it is an 02. ?Thanks for the instructions, will order one this week when I get back home. ?
Missing the cruise control
Stephen On Mar 26, 2023, at 8:47 AM, Carl Hansen via groups.io <CARL_HANSEN@...> wrote:
?Classic G22 failure.
Assuming you have the 01P automatic, this is the correct part #: 357919149
Available from Mark at germanautoparts.com... Call him... doesn't show if you search for it.
Easily accessed from underneath...
- remove belly pan
- jack up front if you need easier access (or ramps or a hole...)
- on top the right side differential.
- you'll see a heat shield over the wires/connector
- pull connector...
- unscrew sensor...
- reverse instructions to instal new one.
Ch
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Re: What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
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Re: What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
Black and sooty spark plugs means you are not burning the gas………… The reason can be weak spark, bad plugs, too much gas, timing, low compression, plug wires, ?
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On Sep 22, 2024, at 10:02 AM, Herman via groups.io <h3ch4@...> wrote:
? Sounds like a fuel pump issue. Sometimes when they fail, the flow rate slowly drops as they warm up. By disconnecting the FPR vacuum line, you are raising the fuel pressure at idle (spec is 36psi with vac connected, 43psi disconnected) to compensate for the reduced flow rate.
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There's a procedure in the service manual to check the fuel pump flow rate (~500ml over 30s at 43psi) but a simpler test that you do is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if the pressure starts to fall below 36psi at idle.
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Re: What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
Sounds like a fuel pump issue. Sometimes when they fail, the flow rate slowly drops as they warm up. By disconnecting the FPR vacuum line, you are raising the fuel pressure at idle (spec is 36psi with vac connected, 43psi disconnected) to compensate for the reduced flow rate.
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There's a procedure in the service manual to check the fuel pump flow rate (~500ml over 30s at 43psi) but a simpler test that you do is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if the pressure starts to fall below 36psi at idle.
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Re: What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
Thank you guys for the for confirmation and reinforcement. I saw the van again today and did some more troubleshooting (new air filter, new fuel pressure regulator, check spark plugs, try to make sense of the vacuum lines).? When I got to removing the SAI, it was already disabled (a small plate blocking the metal pipe to engine head).? So all that fiddling with vacuum lines and valves was unnecessary, the system was dead anyway.
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So here is what I know at this point:
1. when the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (in the ECU) vacuum line is connected, engine runs fine at first but eventually dies at idle.
2. it runs best with FPR and APS disconnected, the vacuum line open and sucking in air.
3. spark plugs are black and sooty.
4. oxygen sensor is probably dead, disconnecting it wouldn't make any difference.
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When I see the van again in a few days, my plan is:
1. change the O2 sensor,
2. change the fuel filter,
3. test the idle valve (it is vibrating to the touch with the key on, but have somewhere an old one I can swap in),
4. test the EGR valve
Anything else? Thanks a lot for your help!
?
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Re: should I add wire to door harness repair
On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 03:47 PM, Spencer Allen wrote:
Dumb question but do Germans use a metric wire gauge? I was going to use 18 GA for the small wires but some are even smaller, more like 20ga but not 22
If you have access to the wiring diagrams, they give the wire size in circular mils. ? /g/eurovanupdate/files/vw.t4.wd.48.pdf is an example.? Most have a close standard gauge.? If in doubt, use the next larger size. ?
Correction:? The sizes on the diagrams are in mm2, not circular mils.? Comparisons can be found .
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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Re: should I add wire to door harness repair
One thing some of us found years ago is that the loom is tie wrapped to a bracket just inside the cab.
Thanks Duane I heard others have just clip the tie wrap and let it hang. I'll see if one is needed when I do the install at fuse panel. Dumb question but do Germans use a metric wire gauge? I was going to use 18 GA for the small wires but some are even smaller, more like 20ga but not 22. I've already spliced in one wire using 18ga. Seems pretty close to me. Spencer
On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 01:08 PM, Spencer Allen wrote:
I figured adding about 4" to the bigger wires might relieve some of the acute bending as they seem to be the most affected by the pinch.
Whatever you can do to prevent bending will help.? One thing some of us found years ago is that the loom is tie wrapped to a bracket just inside the cab.? That causes it to bend instead of 'float' in and out.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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Re: should I add wire to door harness repair
On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 01:08 PM, Spencer Allen wrote:
I figured adding about 4" to the bigger wires might relieve some of the acute bending as they seem to be the most affected by the pinch.
Whatever you can do to prevent bending will help.? One thing some of us found years ago is that the loom is tie wrapped to a bracket just inside the cab.? That causes it to bend instead of 'float' in and out.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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Re: should I add wire to door harness repair
Mike, Justin thanks for the replies. My mirrors stopped working a number of years ago and now my windows stick in the up or down position- unless I open or close the door- depending on what mood they're in. I wish there was a new harness available but I bought a used one on ebay hoping to do a straight up swap out but the "new" harness has broken wires too so I'm going to rewire it and then swap out. I figured adding about 4" to the bigger wires might relieve some of the acute bending as they seem to be the most affected by the pinch. Recently I pulled the main switch and cleaned the contact points and now the driver's mirror works but the RS only clicks when the pad is pushed. After the rewiring and swap if things aren't working then it's hunting down a replacement main switch. Spencer
On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 12:18?PM Justin Soares via <greaseworks= [email protected]> wrote:
There is one easy way to tell: peel back the elbow boot where the wires run and see if you find broken wires. 9.5/10 times that’s the problem and the location.?
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As far as adding extra length of wires when repairing, I guess that’s ur call. It’s tough doing wire repair work in that area without gaining a lil extra length, via unplugging the harness on either end or adding a lil extra wire,but then your doubling the amount of onerous connections you need to make securely. Last time I dealt w this repair the new complete harness for each door was still avail from the dealer so I went that route.?
?
--
Justin
2000 mvwk 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
503k mi :-)
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Re: should I add wire to door harness repair
There is one easy way to tell: peel back the elbow boot where the wires run and see if you find broken wires. 9.5/10 times that’s the problem and the location.?
?
As far as adding extra length of wires when repairing, I guess that’s ur call. It’s tough doing wire repair work in that area without gaining a lil extra length, via unplugging the harness on either end or adding a lil extra wire,but then your doubling the amount of onerous connections you need to make securely. Last time I dealt w this repair the new complete harness for each door was still avail from the dealer so I went that route.?
?
--
Justin
2000 mvwk 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
503k mi :-)
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Re: Weird problem with all automatic door latches
Same issue happens without power locks too. I have replaced the latch pieces on both doors. Poor design on the coil/wire. The spring idea is better than the o-ring option people have posted.
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On Sep 20, 2024, at 5:44?AM, Robert L. Hawley via groups.io <Robert.l.hawley@...> wrote:
I've had this problem, and my understanding is that it's usually caused
by one lock-driver being faulty- the signal to lock is received but it
does not lock, thus driving a signal to the other locks to open.. and on
it goes. Often the driver's door goes first because of water leaking
down past the window-rubber and into the mechanism.
until I can look in detail at all of my lock-drivers (1993 MV), I've
just removed the fuse for the power locks.
hope this helps!
Cheers,
Bob
On 9/19/24 16:04, mikeinput via groups.io wrote:
You don't often get email from lambx195@.... Learn
why this is important <>
Did you ever solve this? My 2002 Eurovan MV locks are all going crazy,
and they NEVER stop—i.e., do not lock in the down position, they just
keep going!
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Re: Weird problem with all automatic door latches
I've had this problem, and my understanding is that it's usually caused
by one lock-driver being faulty- the signal to lock is received but it
does not lock, thus driving a signal to the other locks to open.. and on
it goes. Often the driver's door goes first because of water leaking
down past the window-rubber and into the mechanism.
until I can look in detail at all of my lock-drivers (1993 MV), I've
just removed the fuse for the power locks.
hope this helps!
Cheers,
Bob
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9/19/24 16:04, mikeinput via groups.io wrote:
You don't often get email from lambx195@.... Learn
why this is important <>
Did you ever solve this? My 2002 Eurovan MV locks are all going crazy,
and they NEVER stop—i.e., do not lock in the down position, they just
keep going!
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Spencer Allen
Duane
Justin Soares
Sean Robinson