On Wed, Oct 23, 2024 at 09:11 PM, Scott 98RD Twin wrote:

Is there another switch that could have gone bad that prevents it going into the lower gears?

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To go from D to 3 or 2, you DON'T press the button.? You press it again to get to 1.? Sometimes it doesn't appear to be that way, but it's just a glitch in your process, possibly having the button partially in.

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Duane
05HD Rialta
229K Miles

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Working on my sisters 1997 EVC. Driving it from Austin to San Antonio was shifting fine. As I got off at my exit it tried to down shift automatically to first, very strange. Then ran really poorly for a few blocks, didn't want to shift and had little power. Got home, turned it off, waited a while, started right up, shifts into reverse and drive, but when I try to go into 3rd or lower, the button on the shifter is frozen and it won't shift. Have brake lights, and since it comes out of Park and into Reverse or Drive I don't suspect the brake switch. Is there another switch that could have gone bad that prevents it going into the lower gears? Or is the problem probably in the shifting mechanism (which was working just fine, I had down-shifted to climb a couple of hills on the way home). Any advice as to what may be causing this would be appreciated.

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Scott

1997 EVC

San Antonio

I've been meaning to do this mode with a PCV valve off some other car for a while since I don't like all the oil coming into the intake and making a mess. However, I'm not sure our 2000 eurovans (probably '97 and '99 also) have "Positive" Crankcase Ventilation. They seem to just have Crankcase Ventilation. In my understanding, The P in PCV means you're pulling on the crankcase with vacuum, but in the vacuum diagram sticker on the radiator crossbar, it labels a "Crankcase Ventilation Valve," and The 19mm hose goes into the intake *before* the throttle body. This means it doesn't see much engine vacuum. Most cars' PCV systems suck on the crankcase with vacuum from behind the throttle. and they have a return breather hose as well, which routes clean air from the intake or the air filter housing back to the crankcase. I'm 90% sure the AES engines in the 97-2000 Eurovans don't have any vacuum lines sucking directly on the crankcase (unless you count the vacuum line going the the Crankcase Vent Valve (CVV). On my engine, this CVV doesn't hold vacuum, and therefore sucks either from the intake or from the crankcase. I'm actually also chasing a slight "hunting" idle, where the engine RPM fluctuate between 800 and 950 on about a 1-2 second frequency/period (jumps up from~750 to 950 for a quarter second before settling back to 750-800 and then repeating in 1-2 seconds. One of my suspects is the vacuum leak created by the mangled CVV diaphragm, which the ECU is trying to compensate for.?

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I'm therefore not sure about installing a PCV, since the AES engines aren't designed for it. I think the reason there are such big hoses (3/4" compared to most cars' 3/8" or 1/2" as the biggest) is because the flow of crankcase vapors is slow as there isn't really much suction (maybe more at wide open throttle?). I'm glad previous posters have had success with toyota or camaro PCV valves, but I'm wondering what their crankcase pressures are like. I'm considering an oil catchcan to fix my intake oiling issue. I might disconnect and plug the vacuum line on the CVV to test this theory, but input appreciated.

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I am in need of an OEM 1993 Eurovan distributor.? I bought an aftermarket, and it worked for a short time... then failed.

Anybody have one, even used?? Or know a good reputable source?

Has anyone replaced their house battery with something like and Ecoflow?

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That one is 15.7 x 8.3 x 11 in / 400 x 211 x 281 mm - I haven't measured yet, but may fit in the battery box (or just replace the batter box?). There are various sizes/capacities. Charges while driving, or AC, or by solar.

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If anyone has tried this, I would be interested in hearing about your experience.

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Regards,

gny

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George Y
95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area

I've never paid attention to it but on my 02 mv Should the hook on the sliding door reinforcement plate- 701809284C - be able to move around? I can wiggle it some and the door makes a snapping noise there when opened and doesn't seem to catch when closing. May be just worn out. Any suggestions?Thanks. ? ?? Spencer 02 mvwk

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I would be interested in this as an option. I am not sure if the faucet is fried as I am still drawing a short when the faucet is clicked on, but at this point I will likely be re-wiring the setup anyway, so I may need to learn how to install a relay as it seems this could be a safer solution. On yours, were you able to keep the switch on the monitor panel working as a backup, or did you de-comisson that??

I did test the faucet as you described. I’m no expert, but I was getting 0.0 when off, and then when faucet was turned to the on position, I received a readout, I believe around 2 ohms sounds right, but I was really only looking for some kind of change, and it definitely is completing a circuit. Based on what had happened though, I was convinced it was a wiring issue with the faucet until I tested it today.?

Good luck,

I second Joshua's suggestion. That was the issue with mine, corroded/poor connection at switch.?

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Pete

2000 EVC, ~210k miles

Have you checked that the switch in the faucet is good? You can do this by disconnecting the wires to the faucet, and connecting an ohm meter to the wires. You should see open circuit when the faucet is off, and a short (nearly 0.0 ohms) when it's on. You'll probably see something like 0.2 ohms or so, depending on your meter and the resistance of the test leads.

Hello folks,

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We have been in this group for so long and have found information helpful to our Eurovan questions. After 10+ years with her, as we have spent less and less with her, it's time to let her go for a new adventure. We are in Denver, CO and we frequently go to Fort Collins. So if you are interested, please let us know.

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I upgraded the original faucet to the shurflo electric faucet (included with 97 and later). I had it wired up with one of the blue wires connected in to the middle pole wire on the back of the monitor panel and the other to a constant 12V purple wire behind the panel.?

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This installation worked great for about 4 months, the faucet would activate the water pump, and both front and rear switches continued to work in the van. On a recent trip, the monitor panel was showing low battery and our fridge had shut off due to low voltage. I am not sure exactly how I came around to getting it fixed, but within a couple minutes the fridge powered back on and my battery was showing full. After the monitor panel showed full battery again and everything seemed to be working, the powered element of my faucet stopped. Water will still run just fine, but I need to turn on the pump with the switch on the monitor panel.?

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I re-wired everything with new 14awg wire and was hoping that was the fix, but now I cannot seem to get the electric side of the faucet working again. I have tested the faucet wiring for continuity, and it does show a current when connected to a multimeter. GoWesty support has been helpful and they recommend replacing the water pump and the monitor panel, but I am hoping to get some insight some anyone here that may have come across a similar issue.?

Ron,

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I appreciate the quick response.? I am a little bit nervous about the aftermarket injector.? But it does sound good.? I may need time time to digest that.? I do know that a lot of other parts are made at the same place and just get the OEM name removed.? I appreciate you bringing that option to my attention.? I am leaning towards the idea of all new injectors.

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Thanks again.

That is for sure an option.? I know for sure one is bad, and I may do this once I get it apart to see what I am working with.