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The bolt head size is 10mm for the back two (nuts, actually) and the
front 4 bolts are 13mm. I don't know the actual thread size off the
top of my head.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

HI,

The EV is '99. I have torn this place apart trying to find the key. We do
actually have baseboard hot water heat, and I even took the covers off, etc.
There are some gaps in the hardwood floor that could accommodate a key also,
but the cobwebs down in there don't look disturbed enough to have recently
allowed a VW key safe passage. I have tried to think like a one year old
playing car, but. I must be too old. I took the door handle down to the
local locksmith, he had to disassemble the lock cylinder, but he just called
and said he has the new keys. $44 later, hopefully the van will start.
Thanks, everyone, for your input, it is much appreciated. I value this
list.

Mark

99 EV

Western PA

Trey,
Not sure what you mean be a template--but we did just what you're
asking about. I'll take some dimensions when I'm home tonight, if
you like. It's basically like a saddle--a platform to hold the AC
unit and two wide slats that drop down on either side of the window
opening. Then we stuff it with foam around the sides (foam we took
from an old sofa cushion.)
It keeps us plenty cool during the day or night--even here in S.
Florida. BTW, we originally started with a 5000 BTU unit (I THINK it
was 5K) but eventually took it back for a 6K so keep that in mind.

We made sure the platform leans a bit to the outside of the vehicle
so that the condensation ends up outside. And we lay a clean throw
run over the window frame before we put the platform on it--to
protect against serious scratches.

I'll send you more when I can.

Dave
2001 Weekender in Hollywood FL
and dealing with what seems to be immobilizer issues AGAIN this
morning...UGH!

--- In ev_update@..., "Trey Jung" <treyjung@...> wrote:

I'm looking to see if anyone has a template for a 2001 EVC to mount

an AC unit in the front window. I've seen AC units mounted in Bay
Window buses and Vanagon's this way. Would like to build a frame to
hold the AC unit there.

I've placed the AC unit on top of the bus but found it cold when

sleeping up top....

Thanks,
Trey
Houston


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Do you have an owner's manual? No A/C in the rear but the heat is
controlled by a switch near the rear seat above the window. The dash switch simply
energizes the rear switch.

Bob W.

This is not a rare occurrence for a VW but the first I had heard on a
Eurovan. You can try to get VW to pay for it but I do not think that would be
reasonable. It is simply a part failure.

Good luck

I am sure some VRs are loose in the sockets, but I looked closely at
the solder joints on the board when I fixed mine on Saturday. Of the 6
joints on the top right corner of the board, the joints on the far
right were definitely bad and needed to be resoldered, the middle ones
were so-so and the left ones looked okay. On the other hand, I thought
I would be safe and tin the legs of the VR per Mike's recommendation
even though the VR felt snug in the socket. In the end I had to file
most of the solder off the legs to get the VR back into the socket. In
my case I am pretty sure the problem was the solder joints and not the
loose VR.



On 5/13/08, Boone <bdayley@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

Look in the Links section in the folder "Repairs, Repair Shop
Reviews, VAG-COM Codes" at the link "Instrument Cluster Intermittent
Water Temperature and Fuel gauge problem".


You'll want to look at the connection of the voltage regulator as
well to make sure it's nice and tight. See the past discussion below.

BD
'01 MV WK

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:00:46 -0700 (PDT), "Mike McCarthy"
<mccarthy_mg@... <mailto:mccarthy_mg%40yahoo.com>> said:

<>

Check out that article for the procedure to remove and reinstall

the

cluster.

BUT, the conclusion -- that there's "cold solder" on the circuit

board

-- is wrong, imo. Having repaired three different clusters, and

having

seen a fourth upgraded cluster where VW eliminated the

problematic

socket entirely, I'm convinced the problem is not "cold solder"

but

rather the problem is the socket itself: it's too loose fitting.

IOW, don't worry about the solder joints holding the socket to

the

circuit board as bamberg advises; they're fine. Instead, remove

the
VR

(remove one screw, then slide it out) and notice that the legs of

the

voltage regulator (VR) slide very easily out of the socket. You

will

notice there's barely any friction at all, and no friction means
unreliable connections.

Then, with the VR entirely removed, hold the VR firmly between

your

thumb and forefinger (your flesh makes a great heatsink, and I
guarantee
you will not overheat and damage the thing if you are squeezing

it

between your fingers) and tin its leads with solder to fatten

them
up.

Then, slide the VR-with-fattened-leads back into the socket (and

note

it
will fit nice and snug), screw it down and then reassemble the

whole

mess. Gauges will work.

--- In ev_update@..., "Mike" <joe_leather@...> wrote:

Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a

little

while now… I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper

or

an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for

three

years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe

were

the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can

live

with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then

it

dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge?

Also

could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top

of

the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

On my 2003 Weekender the rear black floor vent behind the passanger's
seat blows hot air if I turn on the swith for the rear controls(under
the radio) It appears that it blows out side air or cooler air until I
fool with it then It gets really warm air coming out. Thanks for any
suggestions.

As some of you may know, earlier this year my '89 Westy was crushed by a
falling 60 foot tree. Shortly thereafter, I purchased a '95 Eurovan Camper
(Winnebago) from the original owners, an elderly couple who had it
exclusively dealer serviced since new. I keep my VW campers a long time (I
had my last one for 12 years, and would still have it if the tree didn't
crush it), so I chose this camper carefully. It was well taken care of and
babied all its life. The elderly couple that owned it thought of it as
family, so much so that they asked if I'd mind if they called me once or
twice down the road to see how I was enjoying it.

Things changed unexpectedly just recently, when I stumbled on a rare find -
a "time machine" '87 Vanagon camper with 40k original miles. Knowing that I
may never find an old Vanagon Westy in that condition again (especially here
on the east coast), I bit the bullet and bought it. So now I need to sell
the '95 EVC that was intended to be my long-term camper, having put only a
few hundred miles on it since I bought it (most of it driving it home from
Maryland).

The price is $18,500, and well worth it. It has every repair record since
day one (from the VW dealership, using dealer parts) and is in exceptional
mechanical condition. It has 89k mostly-highway miles, a 5 speed manual
trans (no auto transmission failures to worry about!), and the rare optional
center bench seat. Its only flaws are minor - a small crack in the rear
bumper (estimated $150 to fix), a weak auxilliary camping battery, and the
heater blower fan is a bit noisy at low-speed. It also has a brand new
timing belt, pulley, and water pump, which I had replaced preventively
because I was planning to take it on long camping trips this summer.

I'm located in Pennsylvania, roughly between Philadelphia, Allentown, and
Reading. Email me at ron (at) busdepot (dot-com) if you'd like more
info or pics.

- Ron Salmon

R U referring to a cover for the vents so that bugs and debris cannot
get inside?



- Maurice



________________________________

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On
Behalf Of forest
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 12:36 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Need Vent Cover



Does anyone on this list sell a vent cover for the refer? I'd like to
order one today.
Thanks,Forest

Hello All,

I've a question, Does anyone know what size bolts hold the
belly pan up? I've got a 03EV and I noticed a rattle the other
day, so I crawled under and found bolts missing from the belly pan.
They must have gotten misplaced the last time I got an oil change.

Thank very much,
Jim Wachter
03EV
99Passat

Ah yes. For some reason I had a flashback to my Vanagon days! That system
had a combo heat shield/flip down dish drain as part of the lid. It was
pretty cool actually. But then we all know the Vanagon Westy was a better
camper than the EVC.



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Pete Peterson
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 8:16 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: If you remove the galley lid....



Stuart- We just removed the large lid. The stainless flame shield is
still there. It is attached to the stove.

Pete

-- In ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com,
"Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

Be careful! The flame shield is there for a reason! Most of us

don't cook

greasy stuff in our vans, but if you do, a grease fire could be
disastrous, and keep the shade up when using the stove too.

Rob, BD & Kent -

The direction is determined by the polarity. You
can reverse the 2 leads on the 'backwars' fan to
make them run the same way.

A $1 5V or 6V 3-terminal regulator will take the
12-15V DC in and run a small fan, etc., at 5 or
6V at up to 1 or 1.5A [depending on specs of the
7805 or 7806 regulator.

Regards,

Jack_son
================================================
--In ev_update@..., "rvdalton" <rvdalton@...> wrote:

Hi Kent. There are several ways you can run DC fans at reduced
voltage. Since I've acquired a box full of AC to DC adapters

including

one universal AC to DC adapter, I use a 6 volt or less adapter on a
small (150 Watt) inverter (DC to AC). The goal is to get an inverter
that is small enough so it doesn't have its own cooling fan and
creates no noise. Another way is to run two 12 volt fans in series,

if

they are both the same they should run at 6 volts (although mystery

of

mysteries one will run backwards). Perhaps the simplest is to get a
universal DC to DC adapter for $15 at Home Depot where you can

adjust

the voltage to what you need. By the way, I've run one 12 volt fan

at

4.5 volts for many hours with no adverse affects, so I think they

run

reliably at reduced voltage.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "Boone" <bdayley@> wrote:

That's interesting... Rob, how do you do that... run them at

reduced

voltage that is?

BD

--- In ev_update@..., "rvdalton" <rvdalton@> wrote:

You can quiet those buzzy fans, Kent, by running them at reduced
voltage. I've run the 10 inch 12 volt WalMart fans at 4.5 volts

and

you can hardly tell they are running. Of course when you run

them

like

that you have to mount them where they blow directly at you

because

they are not moving nearly as much air.

Rob Dalton
97 EVC
Virginia

--- In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@ wrote:

In a message dated 5/13/08 8:56:15 AM, treyjung@ writes:

I've placed the AC unit on top of the bus but found it cold

when

sleeping

up top....

Yup....nothing like having to snuggle down under the covers

when

it's a 93

degree night with 90 percent humidity. Of course.....you can

turn

down the the

AC to be barely cooling.

I think you will find that mounting the AC in the front door

window

will not

cool the upper bunk enough to be comfortable. (at least in

Texas)

Cold air is heavy and tends to fall, not rise. That's why

putting

the AC in

the luggage rack and having it blow through the window, air

bouncing

off the

angled roof and descending down into the vehicle works so

well.

I use several small 12v fans to move the cool air around,

including

one I

clip to the poptop handle which helps move the air out of the

upper

bunk area and

down into the lower area. They are a little 'buzzy' but after

an

all

nighter

doing astronomy I don't notice.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
Dallas


****
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family favorites at AOL Food.

()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I think Steve at www.eurocampers.com has a better price on it...

--- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...>
wrote:

Go Westy has it:


You might also give your local RV supply store a call. I saw them

in my

local store cheaper than I paid online.

Pete


-- In ev_update@..., "forest" <creoflan@> wrote:

Does anyone on this list sell a vent cover for the refer? I'd

like to

order one today.
Thanks,Forest

Go Westy has it:


You might also give your local RV supply store a call. I saw them in my
local store cheaper than I paid online.

Pete

You may want to try this link to locate the lowest fuel cost in your area. Just put in your zip code and it will give you the lowest to highest prices plus it is generally updated every evening.

Hi Kent. There are several ways you can run DC fans at reduced
voltage. Since I've acquired a box full of AC to DC adapters including
one universal AC to DC adapter, I use a 6 volt or less adapter on a
small (150 Watt) inverter (DC to AC). The goal is to get an inverter
that is small enough so it doesn't have its own cooling fan and
creates no noise. Another way is to run two 12 volt fans in series, if
they are both the same they should run at 6 volts (although mystery of
mysteries one will run backwards). Perhaps the simplest is to get a
universal DC to DC adapter for $15 at Home Depot where you can adjust
the voltage to what you need. By the way, I've run one 12 volt fan at
4.5 volts for many hours with no adverse affects, so I think they run
reliably at reduced voltage.

Rob

Hi Mike,

Look in the Links section in the folder "Repairs, Repair Shop
Reviews, VAG-COM Codes" at the link "Instrument Cluster Intermittent
Water Temperature and Fuel gauge problem".


You'll want to look at the connection of the voltage regulator as
well to make sure it's nice and tight. See the past discussion below.

BD
'01 MV WK

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:00:46 -0700 (PDT), "Mike McCarthy"
<mccarthy_mg@... <mailto:mccarthy_mg%40yahoo.com>> said:

<>

Check out that article for the procedure to remove and reinstall

the

cluster.

BUT, the conclusion -- that there's "cold solder" on the circuit

board

-- is wrong, imo. Having repaired three different clusters, and

having

seen a fourth upgraded cluster where VW eliminated the

problematic

socket entirely, I'm convinced the problem is not "cold solder"

but

rather the problem is the socket itself: it's too loose fitting.

IOW, don't worry about the solder joints holding the socket to

the

circuit board as bamberg advises; they're fine. Instead, remove

the
VR

(remove one screw, then slide it out) and notice that the legs of

the

voltage regulator (VR) slide very easily out of the socket. You

will

notice there's barely any friction at all, and no friction means
unreliable connections.

Then, with the VR entirely removed, hold the VR firmly between

your

thumb and forefinger (your flesh makes a great heatsink, and I
guarantee
you will not overheat and damage the thing if you are squeezing

it

between your fingers) and tin its leads with solder to fatten

them
up.

Then, slide the VR-with-fattened-leads back into the socket (and

note

it
will fit nice and snug), screw it down and then reassemble the

whole

mess. Gauges will work.

--- In ev_update@..., "Mike" <joe_leather@...> wrote:

Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a

little

while now… I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper

or

an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for

three

years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe

were

the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can

live

with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then

it

dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge?

Also

could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top

of

the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

Hello,

Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a little
while now… I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper or
an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for three
years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe were
the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can live
with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then it
dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge? Also
could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top of
the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.

Thanks for all the help!

Michael D.

Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat

That's interesting... Rob, how do you do that... run them at reduced
voltage that is?

BD

--- In ev_update@..., "rvdalton" <rvdalton@...> wrote:

You can quiet those buzzy fans, Kent, by running them at reduced
voltage. I've run the 10 inch 12 volt WalMart fans at 4.5 volts and
you can hardly tell they are running. Of course when you run them

like

that you have to mount them where they blow directly at you because
they are not moving nearly as much air.

Rob Dalton
97 EVC
Virginia

--- In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@ wrote:

In a message dated 5/13/08 8:56:15 AM, treyjung@ writes:

I've placed the AC unit on top of the bus but found it cold

when

sleeping

up top....

Yup....nothing like having to snuggle down under the covers when

it's a 93

degree night with 90 percent humidity. Of course.....you can turn

down the the

AC to be barely cooling.

I think you will find that mounting the AC in the front door

window

will not

cool the upper bunk enough to be comfortable. (at least in

Texas)

Cold air is heavy and tends to fall, not rise. That's why putting

the AC in

the luggage rack and having it blow through the window, air

bouncing

off the

angled roof and descending down into the vehicle works so

well.

I use several small 12v fans to move the cool air around,

including

one I

clip to the poptop handle which helps move the air out of the

upper

bunk area and

down into the lower area. They are a little 'buzzy' but after an

all

nighter

doing astronomy I don't notice.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
Dallas


****
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family favorites at AOL Food.

()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You can quiet those buzzy fans, Kent, by running them at reduced
voltage. I've run the 10 inch 12 volt WalMart fans at 4.5 volts and
you can hardly tell they are running. Of course when you run them like
that you have to mount them where they blow directly at you because
they are not moving nearly as much air.

Rob Dalton
97 EVC
Virginia

--- In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:

In a message dated 5/13/08 8:56:15 AM, treyjung@... writes:

I've placed the AC unit on top of the bus but found it cold when

sleeping

up top....

Yup....nothing like having to snuggle down under the covers when

it's a 93

degree night with 90 percent humidity. Of course.....you can turn

down the the

AC to be barely cooling.

I think you will find that mounting the AC in the front door window

will not

cool the upper bunk enough to be comfortable. (at least in Texas)
Cold air is heavy and tends to fall, not rise. That's why putting

the AC in

the luggage rack and having it blow through the window, air bouncing

off the

angled roof and descending down into the vehicle works so well.
I use several small 12v fans to move the cool air around, including

one I

clip to the poptop handle which helps move the air out of the upper

bunk area and

down into the lower area. They are a little 'buzzy' but after an all

nighter

doing astronomy I don't notice.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
Dallas


****
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on
family favorites at AOL Food.

()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]