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--- newfield4u <newfield@...> wrote:

ok I just have a timing light, MY 1993 ev is a 5 speed, what rpm do I time my motor with a
timeing light. Just put a new t belt on. Please help.

I believe it's around 2500rpm for Digifant motors.

I'm looking to see if anyone has a template for a 2001 EVC to mount an AC unit in the front window. I've seen AC units mounted in Bay Window buses and Vanagon's this way. Would like to build a frame to hold the AC unit there.

I've placed the AC unit on top of the bus but found it cold when sleeping up top....

Thanks,
Trey
Houston

At idle after the van has warmed up. Your idle should be around 800 rpm when you are done.

Hope this helps,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com


newfield4u wrote:

In a message dated 5/13/08 8:56:15 AM, treyjung@... writes:

I've placed the AC unit on top of the bus but found it cold when sleeping
up top....

Yup....nothing like having to snuggle down under the covers when it's a 93
degree night with 90 percent humidity. Of course.....you can turn down the the
AC to be barely cooling.

I think you will find that mounting the AC in the front door window will not
cool the upper bunk enough to be comfortable. (at least in Texas)
Cold air is heavy and tends to fall, not rise. That's why putting the AC in
the luggage rack and having it blow through the window, air bouncing off the
angled roof and descending down into the vehicle works so well.
I use several small 12v fans to move the cool air around, including one I
clip to the poptop handle which helps move the air out of the upper bunk area and
down into the lower area. They are a little 'buzzy' but after an all nighter
doing astronomy I don't notice.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
Dallas


****
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()

Stuart- We just removed the large lid. The stainless flame shield is
still there. It is attached to the stove.

Pete

-- In ev_update@..., "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

Be careful! The flame shield is there for a reason! Most of us

don't cook

greasy stuff in our vans, but if you do, a grease fire could be
disastrous, and keep the shade up when using the stove too.



Stuart



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

ok I just have a timing light, MY 1993 ev is a 5 speed, what rpm do I time my motor with a
timeing light. Just put a new t belt on. Please help.

best regards,

carl
Homer ak

Don, you won't lose your brakes completely, but it will take extreme
pressure to stop. It's the same as if the engine died, so if you want to
see what it's like, just go to an empty parking lot and shut off the engine
at about 10 mph.



Small leaks are hard to identify and may not affect braking at all. It's
easy to check the performance of the booster every time you start the van.
Just depress the brake pedal normally while you start the car. The pedal
will go down a bit as soon as the engine starts. When you notice this
taking longer to happen, then it's time to replace the booster.



Stuart







_____

Don wrote:


I also have the evil "brake hiss", but my mechanic couldn't find it or
even hear it. I checked the grommet as well as your pedal push back
test below, but neither diagnosed my hiss.

My question is, how dangerous is this? EG, if I have a vacuum failure
do I lose my brakes completely?

thanks
Don Parce
2002 EVC




.


<
=104298/stime=1210634104/nc1=4767086/nc2=4507179/nc3=4763759>

--- parced <donparce@...> wrote:

My question is, how dangerous is this? EG, if I have a vacuum failure do I lose my brakes

completely?

You will just lose power assist and you'll have to really stand hard on the pedal. But you sort
of almost should treat it as losing the brakes (prepare for the worst but hope for the best)
because you may not be able to exert enough pressure for the type of stop you need, especially in
an emergency.

And if I were you, in an emergency, whack that shifter to 2nd...go for engine braking to help you
out. Probably shouldn't do that all the time but in an emergency I'd take all the stopping help I
could get.



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Be careful! The flame shield is there for a reason! Most of us don't cook
greasy stuff in our vans, but if you do, a grease fire could be
disastrous, and keep the shade up when using the stove too.



Stuart

--- Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:

Mark -
a couple of questions - what year is your EV? I think it makes a
difference as to the immobilizer. The newer ones need to be coded once
you have it so the car will actually start and run.

Correct. the 24V engine ones have the immobilizer and have coded keys.



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Mark -
a couple of questions - what year is your EV? I think it makes a
difference as to the immobilizer. The newer ones need to be coded once
you have it so the car will actually start and run.

Second. What type of heating system do you have in your house?
I once found mine wedged in the the corner of one of our baseboard
heater units... Worth a look. Other areas of attraction are under the
fridge, under the stove.
Good luck
Florian

--- In ev_update@..., "Mark Reed" <tabithamark@...> wrote:

Hi,

Well I need info on getting some new keys made to the lock cylinder. I
talked to a locksmith today, he said bring in the driver side door

handle

and he can make keys from the lock cylinder. I also called VW, and they
told me to start pricing new lock cylinders for all the locks in the
vehicle. Is there anywhere I can find the AH???? code for the keys,

other

than the door lock? Let me know. BTW, my 1 year old daughter and 5

year

old son were playing car with the keys. apparently too close to the

abyss,

cause they must have dropped my keys in there. Now I have no keys!

Mark

Western PA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Valentin.
I also have the evil "brake hiss", but my mechanic couldn't find it or
even hear it. I checked the grommet as well as your pedal push back
test below, but neither diagnosed my hiss.

My question is, how dangerous is this? EG, if I have a vacuum failure
do I lose my brakes completely?

thanks
Don Parce
2002 EVC



--- In ev_update@..., "Andreas Valentin Decker"
<qvalff8@...> wrote:

This may help narrow down where the hissing is:

Have someone start the car and apply the breaks, medium hard, and hold
it. While your go listen in the engine compartment near the brake
booster, have them turn off the car, still holding the brake pedal
down. If the booster or connecting wires are leaking, the pedal will
push up against your helper's foot. I found out that two rigid plastic
hoses going too the booster were cracked at their connections, and
replaced them with more flexible hose. Shame on VW for trying to save
a few bucks on such a safety-critical vacuum circuit.

Hope this helps everyone

Valentin Decker

Mark,

Refer to Jack_son_73's post on keys from 5/4/08. There is a lot of
good information in there. I took the door handle off of my '93 EVMV
and I found the four digit code on my handle.

Good luck!

Michael

93 EVMV
03 Passat


--- In ev_update@..., "Mark Reed" <tabithamark@...> wrote:

Hi,

Well I need info on getting some new keys made to the lock

cylinder. I

talked to a locksmith today, he said bring in the driver side door

handle

and he can make keys from the lock cylinder. I also called VW, and

they

told me to start pricing new lock cylinders for all the locks in the
vehicle. Is there anywhere I can find the AH???? code for the

keys, other

than the door lock? Let me know. BTW, my 1 year old daughter and

5 year

old son were playing car with the keys. apparently too close to the

abyss,

cause they must have dropped my keys in there. Now I have no

keys!

Mark

Western PA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

Well I need info on getting some new keys made to the lock cylinder. I
talked to a locksmith today, he said bring in the driver side door handle
and he can make keys from the lock cylinder. I also called VW, and they
told me to start pricing new lock cylinders for all the locks in the
vehicle. Is there anywhere I can find the AH???? code for the keys, other
than the door lock? Let me know. BTW, my 1 year old daughter and 5 year
old son were playing car with the keys. apparently too close to the abyss,
cause they must have dropped my keys in there. Now I have no keys!

Mark

Western PA

All,
We removed the galley cover and have lived happily ever after.
With that thing gone we have more room, more light and easier access to the sink.
I did keep it, just in case the next bus head wants to wrestle with it.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland,
Oregon

Pete Peterson <tds3pete@...> wrote:
Ooops---
I just saw Stuart's reply to this question and he's right, there is a
little retaining clip. I had forgotten about that.

Shame on me...typing before thinking.

Pete

--- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:

They pop off. It takes a little force. If the new ones are shorter

they

must be the wrong part. If they are skinnier maybe it's a newer

design.

We removed our top completely and find it works better for us, giving
us lots more light when the galley is in operation. We also added a
cutting board to cover the sink, which adds counter space and hides
dirty dishes!



Pete
95 EVC Marsha Mellow

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Does anyone on this list sell a vent cover for the refer? I'd like to
order one today.
Thanks,Forest

I think I will replace the vent cover first. I am going to the city tomorrow
so I'll get a thermocoupler then. If the vent cover doesn't fix it I will
clean out the box sand replace the thermo. I just cleaned the bow and burner
in Sept. and haven't used it much since then. About 25-30 days is all.
Forest

Look at the crank pulley from the passenger wheel well and you will
see a mark that lines up with a mark on the plastic timing belt cover.
That's TDC for the crank. Then look in a little gap on the backside
of the cam gear cover (above the valve cover) and you will see a punch
mark on the back of the cam gear. That's TDC for the cam.

(Once you remove the plastic timing belt cover you remove the
reference mark, and there is no mark on the flywheel either. So, once
you get TDC all set, get some paint and dab on your own marks.)


--- In ev_update@..., "imanudin_royke"
<imanudin_royke@...> wrote:

I would like to replace the timing belt on my 93 Eurovan by my self .
I am a little bit worried the van has 127.000 mls , when I bought 3 yrs
ago it had 93.000 mls on it I have no idea if the previous owner have
had done it before ?
What I like to know is how to align the Crankshaft and Camshaft(TDC) if
you would you can sent me Pictures of it, it will be so greatfull .
Thank you - I am looking forward to hear again from you .

Roy.

I would like to replace the timing belt on my 93 Eurovan by my self .
I am a little bit worried the van has 127.000 mls , when I bought 3 yrs
ago it had 93.000 mls on it I have no idea if the previous owner have
had done it before ?
What I like to know is how to align the Crankshaft and Camshaft(TDC) if
you would you can sent me Pictures of it, it will be so greatfull .
Thank you - I am looking forward to hear again from you .

Roy.

--- Brian Mee <mee@...> wrote:

Drove for 5 hours in this big rainstorm in PA, MD and VA yesterday.
The front wipers on either fast or slow speed would periodically stop
in position for a few seconds and then resume normal wiping. The time
stopped seemed to be constant but the interval between stops varied
from hours to just a few minutes. Intermittent wiper setting seems to
work fine. Has anyone else had this problem? I assume that there is
something amis in the timing system for the intermittent feature that
is causing this. Where is the intermittent relay located?

The relay is located in the panel under the dash by the driver's left shin.



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