开云体育

volks,
I'm looking for a rear bench seat. Most importantly, it needs to be a
rear, not a middle seat; ie, it needs to seat three people. I would
prefer a grey, non-folding (like from a GL), but if you've got a rear
bench, shoot me an email. It can be from any year EV, as long as it's
in good condition.
Thanks,
Joel in Philly

I presume it is the Bentley. When I was tinkering with air cool VW, the
bentley was the shop manual of choice. Is there any other
recommendations and also where would be the cheapest place to order
them?

Are the CD I see posted on the web and on ebay any good?

Was that your tree-crushed Vanagon thread on the Samba site a while
ago?

-- In ev_update@..., "The Bus Depot" <ron@...> wrote:

As some of you may know, earlier this year my '89 Westy was crushed

by a

falling 60 foot tree. Shortly thereafter, I purchased a '95

Eurovan Camper

(Winnebago) from the original owners, an elderly couple who had it
exclusively dealer serviced since new. I keep my VW campers a

long time (I

had my last one for 12 years, and would still have it if the tree

didn't

crush it), so I chose this camper carefully. It was well taken

care of and

babied all its life. The elderly couple that owned it thought of it

as

family, so much so that they asked if I'd mind if they called me

once or

twice down the road to see how I was enjoying it.

Things changed unexpectedly just recently, when I stumbled on a

rare find -

a "time machine" '87 Vanagon camper with 40k original miles.

Knowing that I

may never find an old Vanagon Westy in that condition again

(especially here

on the east coast), I bit the bullet and bought it. So now I need

to sell

the '95 EVC that was intended to be my long-term camper, having put

only a

few hundred miles on it since I bought it (most of it driving it

home from

Maryland).

The price is $18,500, and well worth it. It has every repair

record since

day one (from the VW dealership, using dealer parts) and is in

exceptional

mechanical condition. It has 89k mostly-highway miles, a 5 speed

manual

trans (no auto transmission failures to worry about!), and the rare

optional

center bench seat. Its only flaws are minor - a small crack in the

rear

bumper (estimated $150 to fix), a weak auxilliary camping battery,

and the

heater blower fan is a bit noisy at low-speed. It also has a brand

new

timing belt, pulley, and water pump, which I had replaced

preventively

because I was planning to take it on long camping trips this

summer.

I'm located in Pennsylvania, roughly between Philadelphia,

Allentown, and

Reading. Email me at ron (at) busdepot (dot-com) if you'd

like more

info or pics.

- Ron Salmon

Wow....that was a pretty brave thing to say on the EVC site!!!

I have owned two Westys and there's no question, they did a bunch of
things better than Winnebago......and some not as good.

I'll keep my head down on this one and let the flames shoot over to
you. :)

Pete


--- In ev_update@..., "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

Ah yes. For some reason I had a flashback to my Vanagon days!

That system

had a combo heat shield/flip down dish drain as part of the lid.

It was

pretty cool actually. But then we all know the Vanagon Westy was a

better

camper than the EVC.



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]

On Behalf

Of Pete Peterson
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 8:16 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: If you remove the galley lid....



Stuart- We just removed the large lid. The stainless flame shield

is

still there. It is attached to the stove.

Pete

-- In ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>

ps.com,

"Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@>
wrote:

Be careful! The flame shield is there for a reason! Most of us

don't cook

greasy stuff in our vans, but if you do, a grease fire could be
disastrous, and keep the shade up when using the stove too.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Be sure when you replace them they are not stripped out, causing them
to fall out. On my 95, two of them were stripped out (probably by some
agressive oil changer's air ratchet).

I replaced the four large bolts with new threaded inserts (blind nuts)
and new bolts. The new blind nuts have about 1/4" inch of threads as
opposed to the original bolts which threaded into a fairly thin steel
frame, with just a couple of threads.

I also cut off the rear third of the belly pan so the two 10mm nuts
over studs are no longer used. I still get the wind fairing and sound
deadening, but the pan is lighter and easier to install.

Pete
95 EVC Marsha Mellow

Hi, The front four larger bolts are 8x1.25x30mm bolts. Length isn't that critical a little extra
will just protrude up into the cavity. But I would at least go with a length of 30mm. Rick.

Hi all,

The keys work. They don't look like the old ones, but oh well. Someday the
OG keys will turn up. Probably long after the EV is gone. Thanks for your
help.

Mark

'99 EV

Western PA

IIRC, the window mechanism for the sliding door does not glue on.
There are two parts: one on the outside and one on the inside and
there is a screw that goes through the glass that holds the two parts
together. There is a tiny set screw on the bottom of the piece that
goes inside the van that is loosened to get the sliding part off so
you can access the screw mentioned above (the one under the sliding
mechanism that goes through the glass).

I don't know about the poptop seal, but if I had to pick something
without being able to do any research I would use a clear silicone
sealant.

There is a plastic cover on the hinge-end of the armrest. Pop the
plastic cover off and inside should be a bolt (might be lost?). The
bolt should thread into a threaded hole on the side of the seat. If
the threaded hole on the side of the seat is broken off you will have
to try to get it welded back on -- I've read on this forum that this
is difficult due to the quality of the medal used.

Helo everyone:

I am in need of one floor mounting bolt (about 3" long) for my 97-
2003 EVC Center seat. I also need the vertical plastic piece (about
2 feet by 6 inches) for my Norcold Frig. It is the plastic part
that stands just to the left of the frig door in my 99 EVC.
Apparently it is no longer available from Norcold. PLEASE let me
know what you have as mine is missing.

I could also use a good condition EVC right adjustable armrest, for
1995-2003.

For sale:

One BRAND NEW Coil pack for 1997-2000 V6 Eurovans. I would like
$100.00 plus shipping. I just bought it but found out my real
problem was an injector. I also have for sale 2 fully functioning
EVC trans computers, that to my understanding from my local dealer
will ONLY fit the 1997 EVC. Please make me a reasonable offer...
Hard to find and VERY expensive new from the dealer!

Please call me if you wish at 248-546-1207. Randy in Michigan

Miles Koppersmith wrote:

That one "obtains pricing data from participating credit card
transactions, direct feeds from participating retail chains, and other
survey methods". See also which uses volunteer
spotters in 181 metro areas. It also has history charts which I don't
see on MSN's offering.

I haven't compared the two with each other, nor with reality.

greetings all. i've been a member of this group for a few months while deciding to buy a
eurovan but haven't posted anything yet. so i took the plunge and i just purchased a 93
eurovan weekender that came with a few minor injuries that i would like to fix myself. first is
the window lock on the sliding door came off the window. i have the part which is intact but
am wondering what type of glue or epoxy i should use to remount it on the window. also the
rubber seal for the poptop is loose in a few areas. what kind of glue or epoxy would be good
for sealing this up? and lastly the drivers side right armrest came off. i have the armrest and
was told by the previous owner that the attaching part fell down somewhere inside the seat
cover. anybody know how i can fix this?
thanks in advance....rob

I don't know the screw diameter or threading, but the caps on my '99
are 13 mm for the 4 big ones and 10mm for the two small nuts at the
rear.

SO this is crazy but we were on a short 3 hour road trip and my heated
seat burned through the cover and my coat. Seat has a 2 inch by 2 inch
burn all ther way through with a much bigger brown burned mark say 5
inch by 5 inch.
The heated seat was on 3
What do you think?
have you heard of this
How do I replace it
Should I try to see if VW of American will pay for it?

--- Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:

Actually to expand on that.
Not only is it not airconditioned - it draws in the air from the
sliding door footwell and then blowing it out through the vent behind
the passenger seat. as it does all this, it goes through a box under
the car that is close to some of the Exhaust equipment. When you drive
long distances and then stop (say to get gas) this box tends to get
really warm from the hot exhaust - and from that point on you pretty
much have hot air blowing no matter what your settings are(until you
stop overnight and all cools down again). So at that point, its often
best to just turn the thing off.
As remedy most MVWK owners use fans (either the 12V clip on style for
8.99 or similar) to blow cold AC air from the front cabin to the cool
down people in the rear.
I just recently modified a 110V 10inch fan (14.99) to be clipped onto
the bed support that is much quieter and has 3 speeds and plugged into
the inverter.

There's also this DIY home-brew solution to insulate the ducting from the exhaust's heat.

You should have two 10mm bolts in the back and four 13mm bolts, one in each
corner. If you are missing one of either, pull the other and ask a hardware
store (or VW dealer) to match it.

Bob W.

Even if they only unlock the doors and turn the ignition switch, you
would still be better off- you would have a master to cut new keys
from, and if an Immobilizer key is needed (not in your 99, but for
others this may hold true) you could then get one cut. I know one of
the responders in this thread had the same problem and couldn't even
get his van out of the driveway where a tow truck could tow it in to
the dealer, until he got a key cut to his lock, and could at least
roll it out.
gomi_

--- In ev_update@..., "Mark Reed" <tabithamark@...> wrote:

HI,

The EV is '99. I have torn this place apart trying to find the

key. We do

actually have baseboard hot water heat, and I even took the covers

off, etc.

There are some gaps in the hardwood floor that could accommodate a

key also,

but the cobwebs down in there don't look disturbed enough to have

recently

allowed a VW key safe passage. I have tried to think like a one

year old

playing car, but. I must be too old. I took the door handle down

to the

local locksmith, he had to disassemble the lock cylinder, but he

just called

and said he has the new keys. $44 later, hopefully the van will

start.

Thanks, everyone, for your input, it is much appreciated. I value

this

list.

Mark

99 EV

Western PA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Actually to expand on that.
Not only is it not airconditioned - it draws in the air from the
sliding door footwell and then blowing it out through the vent behind
the passenger seat. as it does all this, it goes through a box under
the car that is close to some of the Exhaust equipment. When you drive
long distances and then stop (say to get gas) this box tends to get
really warm from the hot exhaust - and from that point on you pretty
much have hot air blowing no matter what your settings are(until you
stop overnight and all cools down again). So at that point, its often
best to just turn the thing off.
As remedy most MVWK owners use fans (either the 12V clip on style for
8.99 or similar) to blow cold AC air from the front cabin to the cool
down people in the rear.
I just recently modified a 110V 10inch fan (14.99) to be clipped onto
the bed support that is much quieter and has 3 speeds and plugged into
the inverter.
Florian


--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

--- wagdog54 <wagdog54@...> wrote:

On my 2003 Weekender the rear black floor vent behind the passanger's
seat blows hot air if I turn on the swith for the rear controls(under
the radio) It appears that it blows out side air or cooler air

until I

fool with it then It gets really warm air coming out. Thanks for any
suggestions.

Weekenders (and EV Campers for that matter) do not have rear A/C, so

you cannot expect it to give

A/C cooled air.

--- wagdog54 <wagdog54@...> wrote:

On my 2003 Weekender the rear black floor vent behind the passanger's
seat blows hot air if I turn on the swith for the rear controls(under
the radio) It appears that it blows out side air or cooler air until I
fool with it then It gets really warm air coming out. Thanks for any
suggestions.

Weekenders (and EV Campers for that matter) do not have rear A/C, so you cannot expect it to give
A/C cooled air.

Jim -

On my '97 it's four M8's up front and two M6's at the back. If you're
going under there yourself, you might consider replacing the M8 hex
head bolts with studs and nuts (stud with either Loc-Tite or a nut
tightened against the frame plus another nut & maybe washer to hold
the pan on). It's easier to get the pan's holes over studs than it is
to find the threaded holes in the frame thru the holes in the pan.

Paul in Pittsfield

The rear back floor vent is not tied into the AC... there are no rear
AC vents in the Weekender...

BD
'01 MV WK


--- In ev_update@..., "wagdog54" <wagdog54@...> wrote:

On my 2003 Weekender the rear black floor vent behind the

passanger's

seat blows hot air if I turn on the swith for the rear controls

(under

the radio) It appears that it blows out side air or cooler air

until I

fool with it then It gets really warm air coming out. Thanks for any
suggestions.