I am sure some VRs are loose in the sockets, but I looked closely at
the solder joints on the board when I fixed mine on Saturday. Of the 6
joints on the top right corner of the board, the joints on the far
right were definitely bad and needed to be resoldered, the middle ones
were so-so and the left ones looked okay. On the other hand, I thought
I would be safe and tin the legs of the VR per Mike's recommendation
even though the VR felt snug in the socket. In the end I had to file
most of the solder off the legs to get the VR back into the socket. In
my case I am pretty sure the problem was the solder joints and not the
loose VR.
On 5/13/08, Boone <bdayley@...> wrote:
Hi Mike,
Look in the Links section in the folder "Repairs, Repair Shop
Reviews, VAG-COM Codes" at the link "Instrument Cluster Intermittent
Water Temperature and Fuel gauge problem".
You'll want to look at the connection of the voltage regulator as
well to make sure it's nice and tight. See the past discussion below.
BD
'01 MV WK
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:00:46 -0700 (PDT), "Mike McCarthy"
<mccarthy_mg@... <mailto:mccarthy_mg%40yahoo.com>> said:
<>
Check out that article for the procedure to remove and reinstall
the
cluster.
BUT, the conclusion -- that there's "cold solder" on the circuit
board
-- is wrong, imo. Having repaired three different clusters, and
having
seen a fourth upgraded cluster where VW eliminated the
problematic
socket entirely, I'm convinced the problem is not "cold solder"
but
rather the problem is the socket itself: it's too loose fitting.
IOW, don't worry about the solder joints holding the socket to
the
circuit board as bamberg advises; they're fine. Instead, remove
the
VR
(remove one screw, then slide it out) and notice that the legs of
the
voltage regulator (VR) slide very easily out of the socket. You
will
notice there's barely any friction at all, and no friction means
unreliable connections.
Then, with the VR entirely removed, hold the VR firmly between
your
thumb and forefinger (your flesh makes a great heatsink, and I
guarantee
you will not overheat and damage the thing if you are squeezing
it
between your fingers) and tin its leads with solder to fatten
them
up.
Then, slide the VR-with-fattened-leads back into the socket (and
note
it
will fit nice and snug), screw it down and then reassemble the
whole
mess. Gauges will work.
--- In ev_update@..., "Mike" <joe_leather@...> wrote:
Hello,
Let just say hello to the group I have been lurking here for a
little
while now¡ I am learning a lot and though I do not have a camper
or
an automatic transmission I enjoy reading those posts. What I do
have is 1993 Eurovan MV with 177365 miles. I have owned it for
three
years and before that barrowed it from my in-laws who I believe
were
the second owners. The tachometer has been acting up but I can
live
with that. Today the gas gauge was higher than it ever was then
it
dropped to empty. My question is that the sender or the gauge?
Also
could someone measure the distance from the headliner to the top
of
the rearview mirror and tell me the measurement? My father-in-law
glued it and it seems to low.
Thanks for all the help!
Michael D.
Northern California
93 EVMV
03 Passat
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