What are you talking about??
Provide some frame of reference, please.?
None of us were in the same room with you when you watched, whatever you watched.
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i watched a documentary about it.? lots of places were given false fronts and were windowless so they could run 24 hours a day
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i watched a documentary about it.? lots of places were given false fronts and were windowless so they could run 24 hours a day
|
??? ??? I can imagine getting caught with one of these machines
in? yer house by the wrong person could have very unpleasant
result .
animal
On 11/22/24 7:36 PM, Mike Poore via
groups.io wrote:
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That is interesting. I was thinking about people making parts at
home in the U.S. It would make more sense for that to happen in
the UK where a large factory is going to be a target for the
Germans. It must have been tough to keep those machines running
with constant blackouts. They used to cut the lights to avoid
aiding attacking aircraft.
On 11/22/2024 1:44 PM, I_am Wally via
groups.io wrote:
Well, there is this account...
?
?
-Wally
?
?
|
??? Nice work? ! .Get yer self a small bottle of gun blueing
& give it a quick clean with some alchaol or acetone making
sure not to touch it with bare finders when clean & then give
a pass or 2 with the gun blueing & some cotton balls &
when dry a quick coat with some oil & it won't rust .
animal
On 1/13/25 7:23 PM, Allen Underdown via
groups.io wrote:
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Well, my first
"real" mill project is complete. Note that I had started
before I had the drawings.
Not
pretty, not to any kind of tolerance, but functional
Allen
Allen Underdown
allen@...
Sent
from my mobile device.
Originally, yes, but corrected to the clamp plate
later.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only reason I know anything
is because I've done it wrong enough times to
START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate
in the other. See which one gets full
first.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 06:40:57 AM CST,
Brian Roberts via groups.io
<bri7rob@...> wrote:
Drawing for the tailstock base....which IS
what the OP asked for....unless I am mistaken?
?
|
Nice. ?Its great to be able to make what you need.
Steve
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On Jan 13, 2025, at 7:56?PM, Andrei via groups.io <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
If you need to add the raised side guides, you can screw in a couple of steps.?
They are not precision anything, just keep the show from twisting when you lock it down or move it.
Well, my first "real" mill project is complete. Note that I had started before I had the drawings.
Not pretty, not to any kind of tolerance, but functional
Allen
Allen Underdown
allen@...
Sent from my mobile device.
Jan 7, 2025 9:25:31 AM Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>:
Originally, yes, but corrected to the clamp plate later.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 06:40:57 AM CST, Brian Roberts via groups.io <bri7rob@...> wrote:
Drawing for the tailstock base....which IS what the OP asked for....unless I am mistaken?
?
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/29796.pdf
|
If you need to add the raised side guides, you can screw in a couple of steps.?
They are not precision anything, just keep the show from twisting when you lock it down or move it.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well, my first "real" mill project is complete. Note that I had started before I had the drawings.
Not pretty, not to any kind of tolerance, but functional
Allen
Allen Underdown
allen@...
Sent from my mobile device.
Jan 7, 2025 9:25:31 AM Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>:
Originally, yes, but corrected to the clamp plate later.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 06:40:57 AM CST, Brian Roberts via groups.io <bri7rob@...> wrote:
Drawing for the tailstock base....which IS what the OP asked for....unless I am mistaken?
?
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/29796.pdf
|
Looks pretty good. Nice job!
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, January 13, 2025 at 09:24:10 PM CST, Allen Underdown via groups.io <allen@...> wrote:
Well, my first "real" mill project is complete. Note that I had started before I had the drawings.
Not pretty, not to any kind of tolerance, but functional
Allen
Allen Underdown
allen@...
Sent from my mobile device.
Jan 7, 2025 9:25:31 AM Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>:
Originally, yes, but corrected to the clamp plate later.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 06:40:57 AM CST, Brian Roberts via groups.io <bri7rob@...> wrote:
Drawing for the tailstock base....which IS what the OP asked for....unless I am mistaken?
?
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/29796.pdf
|
Well, my first "real" mill project is complete. Note that I had started before I had the drawings.
Not pretty, not to any kind of tolerance, but functional
Allen
Allen Underdown
allen@...
Sent from my mobile device.
Jan 7, 2025 9:25:31 AM Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Originally, yes, but corrected to the clamp plate later.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 06:40:57 AM CST, Brian Roberts via groups.io <bri7rob@...> wrote:
Drawing for the tailstock base....which IS what the OP asked for....unless I am mistaken?
?
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/29796.pdf
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
Thanks Will, before I start a project like this I keep a journal of what I want to be able to do and all the possible features I want to have in it and how it could interface with other tools/uses. Then I try to integrate those things into the build. My bender has a ton of other features that I didn't cover. I apologize that I did not address your initial question. If you do go the way of threaded inserts I would recommend you epoxy in 1/2"-13 female inserts either home made on your Atlas lathe (brought it back to relevant to this forum) or purchased, that go at least 4" into the slab, min 2' from the wall (better 3'or 4') and if a garage near the large opening door so one end can go into infinity. It may also make a difference if you are left or right handed, I would put your bender into a vice and do some test bending for a while to get a feel for how you might orient the bender. do consider that different bending attachments change the angles that you will be bending things at. The 90* attachment and Bulldozer die bend in opposite directions, bending a coil/circle requires a full extent swing and resetting, larger stock may require an extension handle that will take more room. Your imagination is your only limiting factor, don't ever say "I can't"!
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless you spread it around.
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
Wow. You’ve done a lot of work and planning there. Some really good ideas.?
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On Jan 12, 2025, at 11:04?PM, Ken H via groups.io <dreamcrafters@...> wrote:
?I made my own bender from scratch and not that anyone would want to go to the extent I did, but I throw this out there as a possible solution to the issue, even if you don't go as crazy with it as I did. What I did was make the base of the bender
head out of the larger square tube used for trailer hitch's it has 2 - 3/8-18 bolts on 2 - 90* sides and is @4" tall so it can be removed from the post. For the smaller square tube (telescopes into larger) post I drilled a 4" hole into the concrete in several
locations both inside and outside, dug out under the slab and poured a large footing with a sleeve (the large tube) imbedded in the floor. This way I can just drop the post into the floor hole in whatever location it best suits the type of bending/work I'm
doing. Having multiple post locations also helps me to set up for production as I do lots of different projects that require different production line setup's. To extend the utility of this system I have also mounted the same 4" of large square tube with 2
- 3/8"-18 blots to a number of other Items: my bead roller, shrinker, stretcher, vices, other types of benders, my reloading presses......... And have plans for many more. And to extend that even further I have an even larger square tube that receives the
bases built into my work bench and my welding table, which is very useful when I need any of those tools at any of those locations. So I can put the vice in the work bench to work a part, move it to the welding table for another operation then to a post outside
to complete work and never take it out of the vice. Best of all when the posts come out of the sleeves or out of the benches there is no obstruction at all. This system has morphed over the last 10 years as parts were added but if I built a new shop I would
definitely put in more sleeves in the new slab. As for the trailer hitch I have a set up there to as I do a good bit of jobsite bending as well, having a mini truck mine is @ level with the bed. I made a square tube tee that goes in the receiver, my post slides
in the tee. I jack the truck up slightly and tighten the 2 - 3/8"-18 bolts in the tee then let the truck down and that pressure makes the post good and solid. The tee extends out a bit from the truck to give clearance for bending. This setup also makes it
a breeze to rotate the bender 90* if necessary. The handle of my bender is made of the smaller square tube so it can be inserted into the hitch as well for quick small bends.
Sorry not trying to be a longwinded brag, just wanted to share stuff that has worked very well for my shop.
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless you spread it around.
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
I made my own bender from scratch and not that anyone would want to go to the extent I did, but I throw this out there as a possible solution to the issue, even if you don't go as crazy with it as I did. What I did was make the base of the bender head out of the larger square tube used for trailer hitch's it has 2 - 3/8-18 bolts on 2 - 90* sides and is @4" tall so it can be removed from the post. For the smaller square tube (telescopes into larger) post I drilled a 4" hole into the concrete in several locations both inside and outside, dug out under the slab and poured a large footing with a sleeve (the large tube) imbedded in the floor. This way I can just drop the post into the floor hole in whatever location it best suits the type of bending/work I'm doing. Having multiple post locations also helps me to set up for production as I do lots of different projects that require different production line setup's. To extend the utility of this system I have also mounted the same 4" of large square tube with 2 - 3/8"-18 blots to a number of other Items: my bead roller, shrinker, stretcher, vices, other types of benders, my reloading presses......... And have plans for many more. And to extend that even further I have an even larger square tube that receives the bases built into my work bench and my welding table, which is very useful when I need any of those tools at any of those locations. So I can put the vice in the work bench to work a part, move it to the welding table for another operation then to a post outside to complete work and never take it out of the vice. Best of all when the posts come out of the sleeves or out of the benches there is no obstruction at all. This system has morphed over the last 10 years as parts were added but if I built a new shop I would definitely put in more sleeves in the new slab. As for the trailer hitch I have a set up there to as I do a good bit of jobsite bending as well, having a mini truck mine is @ level with the bed. I made a square tube tee that goes in the receiver, my post slides in the tee. I jack the truck up slightly and tighten the 2 - 3/8"-18 bolts in the tee then let the truck down and that pressure makes the post good and solid. The tee extends out a bit from the truck to give clearance for bending. This setup also makes it a breeze to rotate the bender 90* if necessary. The handle of my bender is made of the smaller square tube so it can be inserted into the hitch as well for quick small bends.
Sorry not trying to be a longwinded brag, just wanted to share stuff that has worked very well for my shop.
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless you spread it around.
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
Making it mount into receiver hitch is an interesting idea. One of the issues with bending long pieces is supporting the incoming stock. If you do a hitch mount I would shoot for putting the bending area even with the top of the bed so it can support the stock for you ( except then it’s probably too high to work with). Maybe “even” with the “inside” of the bed would work better.? Also sometimes you can “reverse” things and put your short bend in the bender and bend the incoming stock if clearance length is an issue.? I commented earlier that incoming ?stock is generally 45* rear left. I should have qualified that by adding that it really depends upon what you’re bending, what bending die you’re using, and many variables. But in my experience the incoming stock is generally between 90* to the left and just to the left of the frame ( in that quadrant).? My home bender is also a HF, I have actually been impressed with its functionality for the price. I have made a couple dies, copying Hossfeld designs which helps.? ?If I remember correctly, the HF bender has a square base which will allow you to bolt it down in any 90* orientation which will increase the functionality of any mounting system you use.? Good luck. ???
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On Jan 10, 2025, at 10:20?AM, Will via groups.io <the_william@...> wrote:
?
Isn’t you truck in the way of bends that way? ?I thought about doing it that way but thought it would severely limit possible bends. I’ve not used on before so I don’t yet have a frame of reference.?
On Jan 10, 2025, at 9:39?AM, Claude Gamache via groups.io <cpgamache@...> wrote:
?
I have such a bender and did not want to drill into the concrete slab and then be faced with another thing to be in the way. I ended up modifying the base so that it could slide into my trucks receiver hitch freeing up space in the shop.
?
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Re: Setup of Compact Bender
Isn’t you truck in the way of bends that way? ?I thought about doing it that way but thought it would severely limit possible bends. I’ve not used on before so I don’t yet have a frame of reference.?
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On Jan 10, 2025, at 9:39?AM, Claude Gamache via groups.io <cpgamache@...> wrote:
?
I have such a bender and did not want to drill into the concrete slab and then be faced with another thing to be in the way. I ended up modifying the base so that it could slide into my trucks receiver hitch freeing up space in the shop.
?
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
I have such a bender and did not want to drill into the concrete slab and then be faced with another thing to be in the way. I ended up modifying the base so that it could slide into my trucks receiver hitch freeing up space in the shop.
?
|
About 12 years ago I had a rush job to cut some parts and whipped this up with a piece of 1/8" plate I had laying around (6" wide x 4" deep). I made the slot coming out to the front to make blade changes easy ( the SWAG model's slot goes to the back so the saw needs to be removed to change blades). The blades, especially on older units tend to jump off quite often so this may be a big consideration. The 1/8" plate worked great as there was enough thickness to counter sink the 2 attachment screws, used the same holes where the silly finger support was, it required a small shim to square up the blade to the table. I cut a wedge of wood to hold the trigger switch in the on position and use a inline/plug in switch to turn it off and on, a foot peddle switch would work well also. It was a quick and simple job.
I'm curious how well the tee square in a slot works? I find that as the blade wears the approach angle to get a square cut changes. I just put it in a vice and have one dedicated to it's use as I very often take it out to cut large pipe or take it to a job site. The table is small enough that I don't need to remove it on free hand cuts and big enough for table type work. The small table transformed it into a far more useful tool.
--
Ken H in AZ
Knowledge is like manure, it won't do any good unless you spread it around.
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
Hello Ray,
That is just the info I was looking for.? With most of the material goes out the back at roughly a 45 degree angle.? I know exactly where I am going to put it and which way it will face.
Thank you very much
Will
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My experience indicates that the longest piece needing long clearance is the base piece of stock as opposed to the piece being bent. The stock being fed in is kinda at a 45* angle out the back left side on most of these benders. So that’s what
I would line up with your garage door so with the door open you have unlimited bar stock length. The bender probably has a rectangular base so it can also be bolted down in four positions, each 90* from another ( even if you need to do that in between bends).
Extend the benders handle to maximum length and that’s how far you need to stay away from other interferences ?As was stated, no matter what, you’ll run into a situation that requires more room.?
Ray
On Jan 9, 2025, at 12:26?PM, Brandon Corey via groups.io <bcorey@...> wrote:
?Hi Will,
My experience with benders is that you occasionally “always" need more room. ?So unless you have lots of space, my suggestion is to either build a stand that’s heavy but
movable, or to mount it on a piece of wood/metal that you can clamp to a bench or something else when the need arises.
Brandon
On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:16?AM, Will via groups.io <the_william@...> wrote:
Hello,
This might be a little off topic for a machining group but I have a metal-working-related question that someone here might be able to provide some good information about. ?I recently came across an unused Compact Bender (floor model) at a price point that
was way too good to pass on. ?I am looking to attach it to the floor of my garage using caulk-in anchors so I can set it up and take it down as needed. I have not used one of these benders before but I've watched quite a few videos. My question is about critical
space around it. ?How close to the nearest wall would you get (figuring farther away is better but space is limited). In other words, what is the minimum amount of space you would recommend from any wall. And, which side do you feel can work with the least
amount of space? I've got some thoughts on these things but wanted to see if anyone here has experience with one of these benders and has some thoughts about the initial setup.
Will
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
It is the Harbor Freight style.? I wish it was a Hossfeld.? I've considered trying to build a Hossfeld style clone.? I found plans on line.? I might still try that and use this one in the meantime.
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You did not supply a picture of the bender.? Is it a hossfeld or HF bender.? I did as you have describe.? I placed expandable bolt in the floor so I could move it to another location for more space.
Larry
Hi Will,
My experience with benders is that you occasionally “always" need more room.? So unless you have lots of space, my suggestion is to either build a stand that’s heavy but
movable, or to mount it on a piece of wood/metal that you can clamp to a bench or something else when the need arises.
Brandon
Hello,
This might be a little off topic for a machining group but I have a metal-working-related question that someone here might be able to provide some good information about.? I recently came across an unused Compact Bender (floor model) at a price point that
was way too good to pass on.? I am looking to attach it to the floor of my garage using caulk-in anchors so I can set it up and take it down as needed. I have not used one of these benders before but I've watched quite a few videos. My question is about critical
space around it.? How close to the nearest wall would you get (figuring farther away is better but space is limited). In other words, what is the minimum amount of space you would recommend from any wall. And, which side do you feel can work with the least
amount of space? I've got some thoughts on these things but wanted to see if anyone here has experience with one of these benders and has some thoughts about the initial setup.
Will
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
My experience indicates that the longest piece needing long clearance is the base piece of stock as opposed to the piece being bent. The stock being fed in is kinda at a 45* angle out the back left side on most of these benders. So that’s what I would line up with your garage door so with the door open you have unlimited bar stock length. The bender probably has a rectangular base so it can also be bolted down in four positions, each 90* from another ( even if you need to do that in between bends). Extend the benders handle to maximum length and that’s how far you need to stay away from other interferences ?As was stated, no matter what, you’ll run into a situation that requires more room.?
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Show quoted text
On Jan 9, 2025, at 12:26?PM, Brandon Corey via groups.io <bcorey@...> wrote:
? Hi Will,
My experience with benders is that you occasionally “always" need more room. ?So unless you have lots of space, my suggestion is to either build a stand that’s heavy but movable, or to mount it on a piece of wood/metal that you can clamp to a bench or something else when the need arises.
Brandon On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:16?AM, Will via groups.io <the_william@...> wrote:
Hello,
This might be a little off topic for a machining group but I have a metal-working-related question that someone here might be able to provide some good information about. ?I recently came across an unused Compact Bender (floor model) at a price point that was way too good to pass on. ?I am looking to attach it to the floor of my garage using caulk-in anchors so I can set it up and take it down as needed. I have not used one of these benders before but I've watched quite a few videos. My question is about critical space around it. ?How close to the nearest wall would you get (figuring farther away is better but space is limited). In other words, what is the minimum amount of space you would recommend from any wall. And, which side do you feel can work with the least amount of space? I've got some thoughts on these things but wanted to see if anyone here has experience with one of these benders and has some thoughts about the initial setup.
Will
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
You did not supply a picture of the bender.? Is it a hossfeld or HF bender.? I did as you have describe.? I placed expandable bolt in the floor so I could move it to another location for more space. Larry
Hi Will,
My experience with benders is that you occasionally “always" need more room.? So unless you have lots of space, my suggestion is to either build a stand that’s heavy but movable, or to mount it on a piece of wood/metal that you can clamp to a bench or something else when the need arises.
Brandon
Hello,
This might be a little off topic for a machining group but I have a metal-working-related question that someone here might be able to provide some good information about.? I recently came across an unused Compact Bender (floor model) at a price point that was way too good to pass on.? I am looking to attach it to the floor of my garage using caulk-in anchors so I can set it up and take it down as needed. I have not used one of these benders before but I've watched quite a few videos. My question is about critical space around it.? How close to the nearest wall would you get (figuring farther away is better but space is limited). In other words, what is the minimum amount of space you would recommend from any wall. And, which side do you feel can work with the least amount of space? I've got some thoughts on these things but wanted to see if anyone here has experience with one of these benders and has some thoughts about the initial setup.
Will
|
Re: Setup of Compact Bender
Hi Will,
My experience with benders is that you occasionally “always" need more room. ?So unless you have lots of space, my suggestion is to either build a stand that’s heavy but movable, or to mount it on a piece of wood/metal that you can clamp to a bench or something else when the need arises.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:16?AM, Will via groups.io <the_william@...> wrote:
Hello,
This might be a little off topic for a machining group but I have a metal-working-related question that someone here might be able to provide some good information about. ?I recently came across an unused Compact Bender (floor model) at a price point that was way too good to pass on. ?I am looking to attach it to the floor of my garage using caulk-in anchors so I can set it up and take it down as needed. I have not used one of these benders before but I've watched quite a few videos. My question is about critical space around it. ?How close to the nearest wall would you get (figuring farther away is better but space is limited). In other words, what is the minimum amount of space you would recommend from any wall. And, which side do you feel can work with the least amount of space? I've got some thoughts on these things but wanted to see if anyone here has experience with one of these benders and has some thoughts about the initial setup.
Will
|
Bill in OKC too
Ken H