Re: My Frankenstein Atlas
The headstock at least certainly qualifies for “Frankenstein”.? The gear and whatever that is under it did not come from Atlas.? My guess is that the PO had an eddy current sensor sensing the very fine teeth. ? The step pulley, as much as I can see of it, looks original.? But there is no set screw supposed to be in the pulley.? It should have one hole drilled through so that it comes out between the two bushings, which do belong there.? It is only tapped part way through the hole for an oil plug that looks like a bull-nose set screw.? The pulley, with the missing direct drive pin pulled out, should be ?free to spin on the spindle (when it was originally assembled).? Besides the bull gear and collar, it is also missing the small spindle gear and undoubtedly the back gears.? The bull gear is about an inch thick.? The small gear is about 5/8” thick.? It has a keyway cast in the face that fits up against the spindle.? You can see the keys cast into the small end of the pulley. ? Your probably least expensive way to fix the headstock is to buy another complete headstock.? Do you know what the model number is? ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 22:51
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] My Frankenstein Atlas? I read the manual on how to remove the headstock spindle and what I read
and what I saw made no sense. First, there is supposed to be a collar
held in place by a set screw. The collar is inside the headstock housing
and butts against the rear headstock housing. I can see where there once
was a collar because I can see many circular indentation marks left by a
set screw.
Second, the manual said to drive the spindle from the rear until the key
emerges from the the large spindle gear. This is the gear toward the
front of the housing. However, this made no sense because I did not see
a square hole in the large gear from which the key would emerge.
Instead, I saw a diagonal cut into the side of the front gear that has a
set screw (this is shown in the attached image). The pulley assembly
also has two set screws. I loosened all the set screws and proceeded to
drive the spindle out. Of course, no key emerged (since, as I said,
there was no square gap in the large gear next to the spindle). There is
a slot in the spindle for a key, but no key. What I saw was the spindle
slightly ground into to accept the set screw for the large gear (this is
shown in the image), and the? same thing for the two set screws in the
pulley assembly.
I have a real frankenstein. What the manual calls a large gear I think
is from something else that was modified to fit the spindle. There is no
square slot to accept the key, and, although not seen in the image, the
so called teeth do not look like the teeth of a gear. The pulley
assembly appears to also have been from something else because it is
sleeved to fit the diameter of the spindle. Maybe pulley assemblies were
sleeved, but what is strange about this one is that the set screws were
obviously home made because each set screw is a different diameter. It
is like the person who did this did not have two set screws of the same
size. Since there are indentation marks indicating there once was a rear
collar but not now, it appears the spindle may have come from another
lathe.
Would you all agree this is a frankenstein? I think I can find someone
to mill a slot for a key on the large 'gear', but I probably would still
have to use the set screw to keep it from moving back and forth. I know
the lathe I have is not worth as much as it should be because of
modifications that were made to it that I mentioned last year, but the
situation with the spindle makes it even less valuable.
Stan
|
And the same milling attachment fit the 10D on and all of the early and late 12”. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 16:08
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color? keep in mind that the milling attachment was probably a option
& may have been purchased at a later date
??? ??? animal
On 2/8/2019 11:46 AM, Stan
wrote: I looked online at the color for K08309007. It pretty much matches what
is on the lathe which contradicts the color of the milling attachment.
However, like you said, it is my lathe and so I can paint it whatever
color I want (pink with black polka dots?). I think I will probably
paint it Chrysler blue or if the automotive paint store has color close
to the milling attachment I'll get that. I think my friend had painted
it the blue color with a brush because I see slop over on the Atlas tag.
Stan
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
Actually, over the 21 years that Sears sold the 3/8” bed 12” and sleeve bearing 6” ?lathes, they changed the color maybe every two or three years.? We’ve seen several shades of green, blue, red and at least one year, gold.? Sometime near the end of production, they changed to the same Dark Machinery Grey as the Atlas badged machines had always been.? Then in 1957 when the 3/8” bed 12” machines (10” and 12”) and the 101.07301 were retired, the color on the new 12” and everything else (Atlas and Craftsman) was changed to Machinery Gray.? Unfortunately, although even in the 1930’s some of the catalogs had color, all of the lathe photos were half-tone (monochrome). ? As a comment on an earlier post, over the decades, Machinery Gray, possibly from oil drying on it, slowly takes on a slight green or olive hue.? This color was used on the 12” and accessories and the 618, 101.21400, 3950 and 101.21200 up through the end of production.? The 10100 and 10200 changed to light blue in the mid 1970’s. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Andrei
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 12:20
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color? Lathes that were sold as Craftsman came in a color close to the current Krylon-Industrial Regal Blue (part number K08309007). You may not find this in home centers and may have to order it online, as it is not part of the Krylon consumer products. It is from Krylon-Industrial, which may be a division or a separate company (not sure about that).? Atlas lathes came in industrial machinery gray (grey, if you live in England). I am not aware of any "matching" modern color because Altas used whatever industrial gray was available at the time. Which means there were slight variations in hue. Consequently, any modern industrial gray color should be fine. MSC sells a Rustoleum product called Industrial Choice which matches the Rustoleum branded Dark Machinery Gray (Rustoleum part number?V2187838). Of course, considering the fact that the machine is yours, you can paint it in any color you want. Just make sure you use a high quality paint. I have seen some really neat lathes painted in all sorts of light and dark colors and they looked just as good as those painted in standard factory colors (I have seen some painted white, very light gray, red, lime, emergency yellow, purple).
My Craftsman 12” lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark machinery grey. ? Kurt S. ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color ? The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote: No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
I read the manual on how to remove the headstock spindle and what I read
and what I saw made no sense. First, there is supposed to be a collar
held in place by a set screw. The collar is inside the headstock housing
and butts against the rear headstock housing. I can see where there once
was a collar because I can see many circular indentation marks left by a
set screw.
Second, the manual said to drive the spindle from the rear until the key
emerges from the the large spindle gear. This is the gear toward the
front of the housing. However, this made no sense because I did not see
a square hole in the large gear from which the key would emerge.
Instead, I saw a diagonal cut into the side of the front gear that has a
set screw (this is shown in the attached image). The pulley assembly
also has two set screws. I loosened all the set screws and proceeded to
drive the spindle out. Of course, no key emerged (since, as I said,
there was no square gap in the large gear next to the spindle). There is
a slot in the spindle for a key, but no key. What I saw was the spindle
slightly ground into to accept the set screw for the large gear (this is
shown in the image), and the? same thing for the two set screws in the
pulley assembly.
I have a real frankenstein. What the manual calls a large gear I think
is from something else that was modified to fit the spindle. There is no
square slot to accept the key, and, although not seen in the image, the
so called teeth do not look like the teeth of a gear. The pulley
assembly appears to also have been from something else because it is
sleeved to fit the diameter of the spindle. Maybe pulley assemblies were
sleeved, but what is strange about this one is that the set screws were
obviously home made because each set screw is a different diameter. It
is like the person who did this did not have two set screws of the same
size. Since there are indentation marks indicating there once was a rear
collar but not now, it appears the spindle may have come from another
lathe.
Would you all agree this is a frankenstein? I think I can find someone
to mill a slot for a key on the large 'gear', but I probably would still
have to use the set screw to keep it from moving back and forth. I know
the lathe I have is not worth as much as it should be because of
modifications that were made to it that I mentioned last year, but the
situation with the spindle makes it even less valuable.
Stan
|
Only problem I foresee is that the QC
center bolt does not have a lot of thread engagement with a flat
nut as you describe.
Hugh
618, QC12, Atlas sharper & mill
On 2/8/2019 7:27 AM, mondosmetals
wrote:
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat
bar, 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled
and tapped a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it
was just a tad short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel
and a hammer to set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt
so it can't be threaded any further through. I have been using
this for > 8 years with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with
bottom of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
keep in mind that the milling attachment was probably a option & may have been purchased at a later date ??? ??? animal On 2/8/2019 11:46 AM, Stan wrote: I looked online at the color for K08309007. It pretty much matches what
is on the lathe which contradicts the color of the milling attachment.
However, like you said, it is my lathe and so I can paint it whatever
color I want (pink with black polka dots?). I think I will probably
paint it Chrysler blue or if the automotive paint store has color close
to the milling attachment I'll get that. I think my friend had painted
it the blue color with a brush because I see slop over on the Atlas tag.
Stan
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
Thanks for letting me know.
Stan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2/8/2019 12:48 PM, Andrei wrote: Stan, the milling attachment was an option that crossed over to more
than one lathe. It had its own color that may or may not have matched
the owner's lathe, when purchased. Even the year of manufacture could
have been different, so there is no way it would have matched the
lathe color, other than by pure chance, or custom order.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Stan Gorodenski <stanlep@...>
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 2:46 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe
color
I looked online at the color for K08309007. It pretty much matches what
is on the lathe which contradicts the color of the milling attachment.
However, like you said, it is my lathe and so I can paint it whatever
color I want (pink with black polka dots?). I think I will probably
paint it Chrysler blue or if the automotive paint store has color close
to the milling attachment I'll get that. I think my friend had painted
it the blue color with a brush because I see slop over on the Atlas tag.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 11:19 AM, Andrei wrote:
Lathes that were sold as Craftsman came in a color close to the
current Krylon-Industrial Regal Blue (part number K08309007). You may
not find this in home centers and may have to order it online, as it
is not part of the Krylon consumer products. It is from
Krylon-Industrial, which may be a division or a separate company (not
sure about that).
Atlas lathes came in industrial machinery gray (grey, if you live in
England). I am not aware of any "matching" modern color because Altas
used whatever industrial gray was available at the time. Which means
there were slight variations in hue. Consequently, any modern
industrial gray color should be fine. MSC sells a Rustoleum product
called Industrial Choice which matches the Rustoleum branded Dark
Machinery Gray (Rustoleum part number V2187838).
Of course, considering the fact that the machine is yours, you can
paint it in any color you want. Just make sure you use a high quality
paint. I have seen some really neat lathes painted in all sorts of
light and dark colors and they looked just as good as those
painted in
standard factory colors (I have seen some painted white, very light
gray, red, lime, emergency yellow, purple).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...>
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 12:45 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to
lathe
color
My Craftsman 12” lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark
machinery grey.
Kurt S.
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> *On
Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe
color
The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines).
Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light
gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment
is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A
spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote:
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and
tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
Stan, the milling attachment was an option that crossed over to more than one lathe. It had its own color that may or may not have matched the owner's lathe, when purchased. Even the year of manufacture could have been different, so there is no way it would
have matched the lathe color, other than by pure chance, or custom order.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I looked online at the color for K08309007. It pretty much matches what
is on the lathe which contradicts the color of the milling attachment.
However, like you said, it is my lathe and so I can paint it whatever
color I want (pink with black polka dots?). I think I will probably
paint it Chrysler blue or if the automotive paint store has color close
to the milling attachment I'll get that. I think my friend had painted
it the blue color with a brush because I see slop over on the Atlas tag.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 11:19 AM, Andrei wrote:
Lathes that were sold as Craftsman came in a color close to the
current Krylon-Industrial Regal Blue (part number K08309007). You may
not find this in home centers and may have to order it online, as it
is not part of the Krylon consumer products. It is from
Krylon-Industrial, which may be a division or a separate company (not
sure about that).
Atlas lathes came in industrial machinery gray (grey, if you live in
England). I am not aware of any "matching" modern color because Altas
used whatever industrial gray was available at the time. Which means
there were slight variations in hue. Consequently, any modern
industrial gray color should be fine. MSC sells a Rustoleum product
called Industrial Choice which matches the Rustoleum branded Dark
Machinery Gray (Rustoleum part number V2187838).
Of course, considering the fact that the machine is yours, you can
paint it in any color you want. Just make sure you use a high quality
paint. I have seen some really neat lathes painted in all sorts of
light and dark colors and they looked just as good as those painted in
standard factory colors (I have seen some painted white, very light
gray, red, lime, emergency yellow, purple).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...>
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 12:45 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe
color
My Craftsman 12” lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark
machinery grey.
Kurt S.
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> *On
Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote:
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and
tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
I looked online at the color for K08309007. It pretty much matches what
is on the lathe which contradicts the color of the milling attachment.
However, like you said, it is my lathe and so I can paint it whatever
color I want (pink with black polka dots?). I think I will probably
paint it Chrysler blue or if the automotive paint store has color close
to the milling attachment I'll get that. I think my friend had painted
it the blue color with a brush because I see slop over on the Atlas tag.
Stan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2/8/2019 11:19 AM, Andrei wrote: Lathes that were sold as Craftsman came in a color close to the
current Krylon-Industrial Regal Blue (part number K08309007). You may
not find this in home centers and may have to order it online, as it
is not part of the Krylon consumer products. It is from
Krylon-Industrial, which may be a division or a separate company (not
sure about that).
Atlas lathes came in industrial machinery gray (grey, if you live in
England). I am not aware of any "matching" modern color because Altas
used whatever industrial gray was available at the time. Which means
there were slight variations in hue. Consequently, any modern
industrial gray color should be fine. MSC sells a Rustoleum product
called Industrial Choice which matches the Rustoleum branded Dark
Machinery Gray (Rustoleum part number V2187838).
Of course, considering the fact that the machine is yours, you can
paint it in any color you want. Just make sure you use a high quality
paint. I have seen some really neat lathes painted in all sorts of
light and dark colors and they looked just as good as those painted in
standard factory colors (I have seen some painted white, very light
gray, red, lime, emergency yellow, purple).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on
behalf of Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...>
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 12:45 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe
color
My Craftsman 12” lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark
machinery grey.
Kurt S.
*From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> *On
Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote:
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and
tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
Lathes that were sold as Craftsman came in a color close to the current Krylon-Industrial Regal Blue (part number
K08309007). You may not find this in home centers and may have to order it online, as it is not part of the Krylon consumer products. It is from Krylon-Industrial, which may be a division or a separate company (not sure about that).?
Atlas lathes came in industrial machinery gray (grey, if you live in England). I am not aware of any "matching" modern color because Altas used whatever industrial gray was available at the time. Which means there were slight variations in hue. Consequently,
any modern industrial gray color should be fine. MSC sells a Rustoleum product called Industrial Choice which matches the Rustoleum branded Dark Machinery Gray (Rustoleum part number?V2187838).
Of
course, considering the fact that the machine is yours, you can paint it in any color you want. Just make sure you use a high quality paint. I have seen some really neat lathes painted in all sorts of light and dark colors and they looked just as good as those
painted in standard factory colors (I have seen some painted white, very light gray, red, lime, emergency yellow, purple).
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My Craftsman 12” lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark machinery grey.
?
Kurt S.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
?
The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote:
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
My Craftsman 12” lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark machinery grey.
?
Kurt S.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
?
The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote:
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Quick Change Post changed to lathe color
The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.
I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote: No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)
|
Thanks. That helps a lot.
Stan
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Show quoted text
On 2/7/2019 5:45 PM, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> via Groups.Io wrote: Not at all. ?Carbide centers are fine. ?But you may find that at some
point you’ll need HSS centers as well.
Such as when you need an extended center for working on a very small
part. ?Or when you need a half center to face off in close. ?Or when
you need to true up a center for very precise work on a small part.
?While you can modify a carbide-tipped center just as you can a HSS
center, it’s time consuming and will require a diamond wheel.
Carbide will stand up to abuse better than HSS, but if you keep your
HSS center well lubed with white lead or a modern high pressure
lubricant it will last a very long time before needing attention.
Just as you’ll probably find yourself using both HSS and carbide
cutters, depending on the situation.....
On Feb 7, 2019, at 10:49 AM, Stan Gorodenski <stanlep@...
<mailto:stanlep@...>> wrote:
On 2/6/2019 10:11 PM, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...
<mailto:jmartin957@...>> via Groups.Io wrote:
The sleeve will allow you to mount your tailstock centers in your
headstock for the purpose of truing them up, which has to be done
occasionally.
If the centers have to be trued now and then, is this an argument
against getting a carbide tipped one?
Stan
Will the sleeve introduce inaccuracy? ?Not really - any decent
sleeve
will be much more accurate than you will ever need.
On Feb 6, 2019, at 4:58 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io
<wa5cab@... <mailto:wa5cab@...>
<mailto:wa5cab@...>> wrote:
Short answer is “yes”.? A 3MT dead center will work fine in
the spindle.
Robert Downs
*From:*[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]>
[mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Wednesday, February 6, 2019 14:46
*To:* [email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Dead Center
The manual for my Atlas 10" says a sleeve is provided to go
from a #2
Morse taper to a #3 Morse taper. I know little about
machining and so I
don't know if this means I could buy a #3 Morse dead center
and directly
put it in the headstock spindle and eliminate the sleeve.
Would I be
able to do this, or could there still be some problems in the
taper of
the bought dead center not matching like it should to the
taper in the
headstock?
Stan
|
Opps! One pic got attached twice and one is missing:
|
No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar, 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and tapped a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years with any problems.
Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom of plate to prevent interference.)
|
You must share pix and a full stoy
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Show quoted text
There are plans and photos of DIY QC Toolposts on the web.? I made mine
many rears ago from a 3" dummy artillery shell and I still have enough
dovetailed stock left over to make additional tool holders. This is for
a Craftsman "618".
Ed
|
There are plans and photos of DIY QC Toolposts on the web.? I made mine
many rears ago from a 3" dummy artillery shell and I still have enough
dovetailed stock left over to make additional tool holders. This is for
a Craftsman "618".
Ed
|
Not at all. ?Carbide centers are fine. ?But you may find that at some point you’ll need HSS centers as well.
Such as when you need an extended center for working on a very small part. ?Or when you need a half center to face off in close. ?Or when you need to true up a center for very precise work on a small part. ?While you can modify a carbide-tipped center just as you can a HSS center, it’s time consuming and will require a diamond wheel.
Carbide will stand up to abuse better than HSS, but if you keep your HSS center well lubed with white lead or a modern high pressure lubricant it will last a very long time before needing attention.
Just as you’ll probably find yourself using both HSS and carbide cutters, depending on the situation.....
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 7, 2019, at 10:49 AM, Stan Gorodenski < stanlep@...> wrote: On 2/6/2019 10:11 PM, jmartin957 < jmartin957@...> via Groups.Io wrote:
The sleeve will allow you to mount your tailstock centers in your
headstock for the purpose of truing them up, which has to be done
occasionally.
If the centers have to be trued now and then, is this an argument against getting a carbide tipped one? Stan
Will the sleeve introduce inaccuracy? ?Not really - any decent sleeve
will be much more accurate than you will ever need.
On Feb 6, 2019, at 4:58 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io
<wa5cab@... <mailto:wa5cab@...>> wrote:
Short answer is “yes”.? A 3MT dead center will work fine in the spindle.
Robert Downs
*From:*[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
[mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Stan Gorodenski
*Sent:* Wednesday, February 6, 2019 14:46
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* [atlas-craftsman IO] Dead Center
The manual for my Atlas 10" says a sleeve is provided to go from a #2
Morse taper to a #3 Morse taper. I know little about machining and so I
don't know if this means I could buy a #3 Morse dead center and directly
put it in the headstock spindle and eliminate the sleeve. Would I be
able to do this, or could there still be some problems in the taper of
the bought dead center not matching like it should to the taper in the
headstock?
Stan
|
Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut
I installed brass half nuts on my lathe and fund if the leading edge that contacts the lead screw is increased they will close easier, I think that is because of the wear on the screw. If you close the new nut with out running the lathe then turn it on and run it back and forth that will help
GP
On Thursday, February 7, 2019, 5:59:00 PM EST, Rexarino <rexarino@...> wrote:
On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 11:44 AM seb fontana via Groups.Io <speedoo51=[email protected]> wrote:
The scribe marks on the wheel do not line up with the housing mark?
|
Re: Atlas / Craftsman 10F-12 10" & 12" Lathe Half Nuts / Split Nut
On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 11:44 AM seb fontana via Groups.Io <speedoo51=[email protected]> wrote: The scribe marks on the wheel do not line up with the housing mark?
_._,_._,_
Correct! With the half nuts engaged, the marks were off about a third of the way from alignment. I tried a few different thicknesses of washers and found a good thickness. I didn't even consider pressing the gear off and back on - it looked a bit fragile for that, and I don't regret using the washer.? If you install new half nuts, be careful when attempting to engage them for the first time and don't rely on the threading dial until you have a good, positive engagement and verify it indicates correctly. It is possible to force the half nuts (without too much force) into a partial engagement which will distort the threads on the half nuts - that's why I bought new half nuts, and why I corrected the thread dial.
Rex?
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Stan Gorodenski