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Re: Quick Change Post changed to lathe color


 

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Actually, over the 21 years that Sears sold the 3/8¡± bed 12¡± and sleeve bearing 6¡± ?lathes, they changed the color maybe every two or three years.? We¡¯ve seen several shades of green, blue, red and at least one year, gold.? Sometime near the end of production, they changed to the same Dark Machinery Grey as the Atlas badged machines had always been.? Then in 1957 when the 3/8¡± bed 12¡± machines (10¡± and 12¡±) and the 101.07301 were retired, the color on the new 12¡± and everything else (Atlas and Craftsman) was changed to Machinery Gray.? Unfortunately, although even in the 1930¡¯s some of the catalogs had color, all of the lathe photos were half-tone (monochrome).

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As a comment on an earlier post, over the decades, Machinery Gray, possibly from oil drying on it, slowly takes on a slight green or olive hue.? This color was used on the 12¡± and accessories and the 618, 101.21400, 3950 and 101.21200 up through the end of production.? The 10100 and 10200 changed to light blue in the mid 1970¡¯s.

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Robert Downs

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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Andrei
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 12:20
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color

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Lathes that were sold as Craftsman came in a color close to the current Krylon-Industrial Regal Blue (part number K08309007). You may not find this in home centers and may have to order it online, as it is not part of the Krylon consumer products. It is from Krylon-Industrial, which may be a division or a separate company (not sure about that).?

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Atlas lathes came in industrial machinery gray (grey, if you live in England). I am not aware of any "matching" modern color because Altas used whatever industrial gray was available at the time. Which means there were slight variations in hue. Consequently, any modern industrial gray color should be fine. MSC sells a Rustoleum product called Industrial Choice which matches the Rustoleum branded Dark Machinery Gray (Rustoleum part number?V2187838).

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Of course, considering the fact that the machine is yours, you can paint it in any color you want. Just make sure you use a high quality paint. I have seen some really neat lathes painted in all sorts of light and dark colors and they looked just as good as those painted in standard factory colors (I have seen some painted white, very light gray, red, lime, emergency yellow, purple).


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Kurt Sierens <ksierens@...>
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 12:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color

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My Craftsman 12¡± lathe still has the original paint, which is a dark machinery grey.

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Kurt S.

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 11:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Quick Change Post changed to lathe color

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The color of your lathe brings up another question I have. I am in the
process of removing and checking everything out and so this will be a
good time to paint it because it needs it. It is painted a blue color
like your lathe (which is similar to Ford blue for car engines). Is this
the original color? The milling attachment is sort of a light gray-green
color which makes me think this was the original color. Probably the
colors varied with the years and so maybe the milling attachment is the
best indicator to go by.

I plan to spray the lathe with engine enamel from a spray can. Would
another paint be better, excluding a spray gun with a hardener? A spray
gun is more trouble and expense than I want to get into.
Stan

On 2/8/2019 6:27 AM, mondosmetals wrote:

No Tee-nut needed for the QCTP. I used a length of ground flat bar,
5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16 (T W L). I made my own bolt then drilled and tapped
a hole to match the bolt. Threaded the bolt in so it was just a tad
short of the bottom surface then used a cold chisel and a hammer to
set a couple of divots across the end of the bolt so it can't be
threaded any further through. I have been using this for > 8 years
with any problems.

Dimensions:
Plate = 5/16 x 1 x 2 11/16
Main shaft and threads = 9/16" NF
LOA = 3 7/8
Shoulder at plate = 5/8" D x 1/4" L
Upper thread length = 1 1/2"
Bottom thread = 9/16 NF
Bottom thread length = 19/64" (makes it 1/64 shy of flush with bottom
of plate to prevent interference.)

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