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Re: FT-101 IF Board - Help needed
Thanks Jim for your help!
I fully agree with you, that's the obvious way to go; I only quoted the transistors because I believe this is going to be the main source of difficulties (substitutions, etc).
In the meantime, I located a 'fried' resistor, which was probably the source of the smoke; I will replace it and see what happens next...
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BTW, note that repalcing the PB1080A with a P04-004 on a Sommerkamp Ft-277 doesn't seem to affect the RX quality; at least, I haven't noticed any difference, when comparing to a FT-277E...
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Thanks again to all!
73 - Joseph F4JVO
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Re: FT-101 IF Board - Help needed
The next step SHOULD be troubleshooting with test instruments (and your eyes) to locate the defective part(s). Replacing parts just because they are there can lead to more problems than you started with.
On Sun, 08 Sep 2024 01:13:51 -0700 "JsF4JVO via groups.io" <joseph.simantov@...> wrote: So, I suppose the next step will be to replace the 2sc828q transistors (wish me good luck!). -- 73 -Jim NU0C |
Re: FT-101 IF Board - Help needed
Hi Joseph,
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Good luck with the repairs!
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There could be little information on the web as the TS-288A was not made in great quantities, and this is the first time that I have heard of a board that should be in a TS-288A being put into a FT-101. The full manual with schematics for the TS-288A is available on the web if you are interested.
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Another manual I have shows the BC182 as a replacement for the 2SC828Q, but you will need to check the pin designations to make sure it is a good replacement.
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73,
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Peter
G4DJB |
Re: FT-101 IF Board - Help needed
Thanks Peter,?I really appreciate your reply!
I was very surprised about the lack of any information on the web about that board. I even asked a few Swiss OMs, but somehow nothing came out!!!
The main reason I enquired about that board was that the S-meter somehow stopped working; then, I realized that the 500ohm pot was damaged, and when I replaced it, an evil-looking smoke came out of 'somewhere' and the S-meter was still dead...
So, I suppose the next step will be to replace the 2sc828q transistors (wish me good luck!).
Thanks again, have a nice weekend!
73 - Joseph F4JVO? |
Re: FT-101 IF Board - Help needed
Hi Joseph,
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That is very interesting!
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The P04-004 is a valid Sommerkamp board number and is the IF board from the Sommerkamp TS-288A transceiver, which was the Sommerkamp version of the FT-101 with added CB channels.
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This board should be very similar to the PB-1080A and I have attached a schematic of P04-004. I have not checked that these boards are interchangeable, but I believe that they would be. I believe that the original board would have had the Yaesu SSB filter fitted. I do not know why yours has a homebrew filter. Perhaps the original filter was somehow damaged, or a previous owner wished to improve the performance? The early FT-101 and TS-288A were fitted with a 6-pole SSB filter, whereas later models of the FT-101 used an 8-pole filter.
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73,
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Peter
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G4DJB |
Re: FT-101EE Switch Needed --- PLEASE HELP!!
开云体育On Ebay, someone in Japan has a lot of 4 slide switches for the 101 series, you might look at see if one of the lot is what you are looking for?Chuck N4IYQ On Aug 23, 2024, at 2:33?PM, Jerry Purcell <kc9zar@...> wrote:
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FT-101 IF Board - Help needed
Hi Everyone,
I just joined the group, and am already posting a question, hoping somebody would have some information to share...
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I just acquired (salvaged/got from somebody who wanted to get rid of) an old FT-101 (Sommerkamp FT-277) which I set out to restore; the first thing I noticed was that in place of the PB1080A board, the last owner had installed an unknown board with a marking P04-004 - it looks very similar to the PB1080A, with the NB and a homebrew SSB filter, but the markings of the transistors are long gone... A search on the web has given nothing...
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I was wondering if anybody had any information about this board (link, schematic, etc)
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Many thanks and 73s, Joseph F4JVO
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Re: FT-101EE Switch Needed --- PLEASE HELP!!
Yaesu was absolutely NO help. But I understand because it is an old radio On Fri, Aug 23, 2024, 2:12?PM Phil Mendelsohn via <phil=[email protected]> wrote:
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More Pre-Mix Local info
I double-checked the scope settings and found I had the wrong measurement selected.? The actual output of the 78L08 is just a hair over 8V, and the switch, Pre-Mix Local socket and the board itself are seeing 7.76V on each band.? Output is 20mV or so peak to peak, although the service manual calls for 300mV PP.?? So far, everything seems correct for voltages.?? |
Pre-mix Local board question
I'm trying to diagnose a problem with the higher bands where the VFO display will change to random frequencies while transmitting.?? Specifications for the PB-2153 are 300mV output on Pin 3, where I am seeing about 20-25 mv peak to peak.? The output is at the correct frequency for each local oscillator.? Supply voltage switches properly to each LO pin on the board, but seems low at 5V each band.? Since the collector voltages are listed (for the earlier board, very similar circuits) at 6.6-6.7 volts, 5V supply seems too low. The board supply comes from a regulated 78L08 chip mounted on the chassis as a heat sink.? It's fed by a 12V output from the Rectifier A board.? It's regulated 8V output goes to the bandswitch segment S1A through a 22 ohm dropping resistor, then from the switch directly to the board pins for each band.? The 22 ohm resistor would be carrying about 136mA to drop the voltage 3 volts, with about .4 watts dissipated, which seems rather a lot.? Also, 5V seems too low for the circuit as described in the service manual.?? I'm about to start tracing the power from the 78L08 to see if it's actually putting out 8V, and where it drops to 5V.?? Any hints, suggestions, lessons learned etc. welcome. |
Re: Ye Olde RL1
Rewiring the RL-1 socket is not something I want to do; but the Potter & Brumfield relay is so tantalizingly close to what the FT-101 uses...
Luckily for me, my OM likes to make electronic gadgets and was looking for a new project. We wondered if he could make an adapter that would map the P&B relay pins to the existing socket connectors. He finished it yesterday and it works great. The adapter comprises a socket for the new relay to plug into, two stacked circuit boards that do the remapping, and homemade brass pins that plug into the old socket. The pins were actually one of the tougher problems because he couldn't find any ready-made pins that would fit. We'll keep an eye out for corrosion on those brass pins. Those shiny new relay contacts snapping back and forth make me so happy. |
Re: FT101ZD 10M Only Incorrect Frequency Readout
Thank you Jim. That sounds very plausible. I’ll give it a try.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 29, 2024, at 15:05, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimNU0C@...> wrote: |
Re: FT101ZD 10M Only Incorrect Frequency Readout
This sounds like an analog problem. You may be losing too much signal amplitude of the LO signal feeding the counter at the higher frequencies. Glancing over the schematic I think i would look at the buffer circuit for the input to the counter. Check the electrolytic caps around Q01, Q03, and Q04. Starting with C10.
Disclaimer, I don't own nor have I ever worked on one of these. This is an educated guess. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sat, 29 Jun 2024 06:14:44 -0700 "A. John Hecht via groups.io" <k6koi@...> wrote: I still have a couple of issues remaining with the "Parts" FT101ZD I'm restoring. It looks like I have a frequency counter issue. ?The counter works 100% on all bands except on any of the 10 meter band segments. ?From a cold start it reads correctly; then after about 30 seconds the readout of all 10 meter segments is 600 KHz low (e.g. 28.000 becomes 22.000). ?The actual received and transmitted frequency remains correct. ?Other than using DeOxit on the RCA connector to the counter, I've not yet gotten into it. ? I hate counter issues because I don't understand those circuits very well. ?Any ideas? |
FT101ZD 10M Only Incorrect Frequency Readout
I still have a couple of issues remaining with the "Parts" FT101ZD I'm restoring. It looks like I have a frequency counter issue. ?The counter works 100% on all bands except on any of the 10 meter band segments. ?From a cold start it reads correctly; then after about 30 seconds the readout of all 10 meter segments is 600 KHz low (e.g. 28.000 becomes 22.000). ?The actual received and transmitted frequency remains correct. ?Other than using DeOxit on the RCA connector to the counter, I've not yet gotten into it. ? I hate counter issues because I don't understand those circuits very well. ?Any ideas??
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AC Power Cord FT101ZD
Even after a careful online search and checking with my ham friends, I was not able to find the female Jones plug for the AC input to my newly acquired FT101ZD. ?There are six pin Jones plugs out there (Mouser, etc.) but not with one pin having a different orientation (the "Key" pin) ?from the other 5 pins. ?So I took one of my six pin plugs that have all vertical pins and drilled out a pin to make a hole for the Key pin on the FT1001ZD's AC socket; works like a charm. ?Be very, very careful to solder the three wires from an AC cord in the correct locations. ?Usually (not always) three conductor cords have black, white and green wires. ?The black wire goes to the Hot pin; the white wire goes to the Neutral pin and the green wire goes to the Ground pin. You should check your cord by using a DVM . The round pin on a three pronged AC male plug is ground; the narrower flat and vertical pin is hot and the ?wider flat and vertical pin is neutral. ?
Looking at the rear transceiver apron the Key pin is upper right (it's horizontal); the ground is vertical, adjacent and to the left of the Key pin; the neutral is vertical and directly below the ground pin and the hot pin is vertical, adjacent and to the right of the ?neutral pin. ? I'll try to upload a couple photos (no guarantee). |
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