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Hello all from K7RAN. QUESTION... I just acquired a Yaesu FT-101F (note "F" rather than "E"). On the front panel, in the thin/long horizontal rectangle above the VFO and switches where it reads "YAESU SSB TRANSCEIVER FT-101F," the lettering is a sticker — RATHER THAN the embossed raised silver lettering I'm used to seeing. A Google images search reveals an example of the FT-101F with the usual raised lettering like we see on earlier models. My example looks exactly like that, with silver letters on a black background, except, as I said, it is a flat sticker applied to that space. I almost didn't notice at all, until I just did, hi. Can anyone shed light on this? The sticker is so professionally done, it looks exactly like a Yaesu production, except that I've never seen anything like that before. Were a few manufactured this way just before they stopped production entirely? By the way, this is serial number 8F340344. I can take a picture if anyone is interested. Any authoritative information would be appreciated! 73 from Randy, K7RAN

Hi All, The issue I had with the original RL1 relay in my FT-101 is that the meter circuit was not working due to the relay. I had cleaned it a few times bit did not correct the problem but it made it worse. I decided to replace the relay with a Magnecraft W67RCSX-12 relay as per written in an article on the Fox Tango website by Wayne N4YI. (Thank you Wayne!) I just completed the RL1 modification in which I replaced the original AE-3271 relay with a Magnecraft W67RCSX-12 relay. The image below is my write up of what I did using Wayne N4YI article. The original article was for a FT-101E, so I compared the schematics for my FT-101 (late, pre B model) to the FT-101E and found that Yaesu did not change the harness wiring for RL1. After making the wiring change my FT-101 meter now works. The receiver checked out and I did a transmit test by loading the the transmitter up on 20 meters into a dummy load and checking the audio modulation on one of my other radios. It appears the mod with the new relay works. I am posting this info for anyone interested, but as a disclaimer you do it at your own risk! 73 Ed KN6NZW

Good afternoon group. I am still becoming familiar with a new-to-me FT-101E. I am a regular CW operator of both new and old hybrid Kenwoods, so understand the basic principles of CW operation. My issue is that I can't get the radio to transmit when in CW & VOX mode, short of flicking the MOX/PTT/VOX switch to MOX. If the mic is plugged in however, a clap or other noise trigger activates the VOX and it switches to TX despite being in CW mode. I have tried the following: Unplugging the mic. Check the keyer continuity at the key plug. Some questions to help further diagnosis: Should the radio emit the side-tone even with VOX isn't enabled (the switch in the PTT position)? As it is I get no side-tone regardless of settings. If so, it suggests the issue may be the jack on the back of the radio. Are there any common issues with these radios and areas to check with respect to CW keying? Any further tests you can suggest to further narrow down the issue. Attached is a photo of the rig face, just in case I've got a setting wrong. Kind regards, Lance, VK7TO

Hello, Anyone have any idea where I might find one of these resistors or the wire to rewrap the existing one? It looks like it is a fabric encased possibly copper wire that is originally on there, because it is non-magnetic. Kevin Rea K6REA

Hi guys, I need one of the face bezels for a ft-101b, Mine is broken. Here is a picture of what I need The crack is on the left side of the squiggly line Thanks Kevin Rea K6REA

Hello to all here. I'm Butch - KA?WWT and have recently purchased an FT-101B (SN: SC119507) along with the YC-601B Digital Display. The rig has been 'on the shelf' for a great deal of time but was well taken care of before that and during that time. It has the original tubes in it and still has the glue/paint/whatever on all of the screws in the boards. I don't believe anything was ever done to this rig after the initial purchase from the looks of it. Fast forward to now, I attempted to do an initial tune up on her and I am not able to get the idle current reading down to the 60 milliamps according to the initial tune. And that is with the Bias adjust VR2 turned all the way to minimum. Best I can get is around 150ma. So, that is where I have stopped and am now pouring over any and all documentation I can find. Thing is, I am not finding what is probably right in front of me. And now I am here reaching out for some guidance. Is this a driver tube problem? An adjustment on a trimmer cap that I am not seeing? My intention is to get this rig back on the air and will certainly make it a project to do just that. I have not cleaned or reseated anything as of yet, I have some contact cleaner coming and it should be here this week. From my list of things to do at this point: 0. Inspect as much of the rig I can see, upper and lower for any cracked caps or any other potential damage. (I have not seen any of that topside at all.) 1. Remove and inspect all boards, clean contacts and connectors. 2. Clean all switches with cleaner. 3. Clean wafer switches with either erasers or contact cleaner (incrementally and not a mad wash of everything). 4. Change all the electrolytic caps. 5. Change out C13 and C131 with newer better caps. 6. Put it all back together and smoke test it. All this will take me a bit of time but I intend to put in the work. I have the service manual as well as the instruction manual and I am not afraid to use them. Yep, I am well versed (albeit very rusty working on electronics), in this sort of stuff but it will be a relearning experience for me. I am happy to see a schematic that I can easily recognize parts again. Right now, all I have are a couple of volt meters. I will have to borrow an O'scope but I know where one is. My ask of the community here is, can you recommend some additional steps I can do now or during that I may have not considered initially? The receive on the rig is good on some bands and could be better. on others. The preselector is scratchy when I move it through its ranges. Is that something I can fix, if so, how? All the knobs need some cleaner of some sort or another. They are all scratchy to some degree. I expect the contact cleaner and exercising them to work those bugs out. Here are a couple of pictures of the rig. I posted on the FoxTango site as well a few days back. I greatly appreciate any help or guidance from anyone here and thank you in advance. Regards, Butch - KA?WWT

I have an early FT-101 SN below 25000. Problem is it has no 13.5 volts. It keeps blowing D7 and shorting D8. I have replaced them with IN4004's which seems to be what most people use. I have also replaced C6 with a same value ceramic cap. Both 10.5vac lines on the xfrmr are good. The diagram I have shows the 13.5v going to the power jack but does not show where it comes out to the rest of the system. All other voltages at the xfrmr are normal. I suspect there is a short somewhere but I have no idea where to start tracing the 13.5 through the rest of the system. Any help is appreciated.

Hi All, New to the group! I picked up a FT-101 off of Ebay from a Japanese vendor and have a question about decoding the serial number. I know this has probably been hashed over many times but I am unclear about one of the digits on the back panel label. My unit has the following number: 83D134146. I understand 3 is for the year 1973 and D for February, lot number #13 and serial number of 34146. Please correct me if I am wrong. My question is what does the "8" mean at the beginning of the back panel label? Does it indicate its a Japanese domestic market radio? Thanks much for any help! Ed KN6NZW

Is anyone aware of where I can find schematics for early (below 25000 sn) FT-101's? I have a copy of the Yaesu service manual but as far as I can tell all the schematics are for B models and up.

Anyone have a schematic for the Yaesu FT101ZSD (10 watt version)??