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Re: X-air H brake parts

 

开云体育

Please tell us what you need exactly using part numbers from the parts manual. Then we will be able to help you further, just saying small tabs doesn't make a lot of sense to everybody ......?? many thanks

Robert Marietta wrote on 29/12/2022 10:41 am:
Just took delivery of N929XH after a 900 mile ferry flight. I have started going thru the plane and need the brake cable for the right brake. Also need the small tabs? at the bottom of the brake shoes. One has a section missing and I reversed it for now. Would appreciate any info.? Thanks, Bob

-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...


Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.


X-air H brake parts

 

Just took delivery of N929XH after a 900 mile ferry flight. I have started going thru the plane and need the brake cable for the right brake. Also need the small tabs? at the bottom of the brake shoes. One has a section missing and I reversed it for now. Would appreciate any info.? Thanks, Bob


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

Just some notes here.
I found the drum brakes to be primitive and less than efficient. Mine failed when the shoes kinked sideways and destroyed the drum, shoes and backing plate.? No parts were available at that time?
( blame Covid )
I wanted to upgrade using cable operation. I looked into hydraulic, but it involves a lot to convert, and is considerably heavier and more expensive.?
I consulted with an engineer, and he stated that the forces on the brakes from a 120kg cyclist trying to stop from 50 kmh, would be greater than slowing a 300 kg aircraft taxiing at 20kmh, or holding the aircraft at full throttle- the usual application of the brakes.
Perhaps in a severe emergency stop situation, the brakes may be near, at, or above their failure load?
I'm not sure what the same situation would do to the drum brakes?
The mount supports the calipers as much as possible, with large mating surfaces, and? minimising stress points. The rotational force is directed at the original lug on the axle? ( which the backing plate mated to ). High tensile bolts are used on caliper and disc mounting, using Loctite.
Overall, the pedal effort to hold or slow the aircraft feels about 30% less than the drums.
Braking is smoother, and more positive. The pads can be inspected or changed without removing the wheels. The discs are also visible for inspection. Adjustment takes about 5 seconds to do. Replacement parts are readily available and reasonably priced.?
The whole conversion cost me about $300 Aussie , and about 4 hours on the mill, plus 2 hours to fit.?

Cheers

Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Michael Coates <mcoates@...>
Sent: Tuesday, 13 December 2022 7:31 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hello everyone, the problem with using bicycle parts is they are simply not made to stop the weight of an aircraft. The calipers are just not strong enough and will eventually fail the first time you really need them, usually breaking off where they mount.

Bicycle braking systems are normally designed to pull up something that is a maximum weight of 120 kg total. Braking something 3 or 4 times this weight is much more than what the system is designed for, the rotor will build up so much heat that it will warp and the fittings holding the brake caliper will eventually break.

You should be looking at systems for things like motor scooters.

Even though the weight of a motor scooter is not as much as an aircraft they are continuously braking from fairly high speeds and are more than strong enough for something like the X-Air. You will see that the brake caliper itself is probably twice the weight because it has a decent casting where it attaches to the frame and also the disk itself will be 3 times thicker.

Experience shows that the bicycle system especially if you go hydraulic works really well for things like engine run up at the first time you need to brake in a real emergency may end up in tears.



Robert Marietta wrote on 13/12/2022 12:05 am:
Can you give us the?Shimano model or part number you used.
Thanks, Bob

-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583
USA +1 213 984 1237


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...

skype name:   xcomavionics

Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.

"Amateurs practice till they get it right;
Professionals practice till they can’t get it wrong."


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

Good point. There are lots of options on Amazon for go kart brakes. There are mechanical and hydraulic options. What size rotors are you using? Looks like 7” +/- are standard. The hydraulic would be great other than you would need longer brake lines.

On Dec 12, 2022, at 3:01 PM, Michael Coates <mcoates@...> wrote:

Hello everyone, the problem with using bicycle parts is they are simply not made to stop the weight of an aircraft. The calipers are just not strong enough and will eventually fail the first time you really need them, usually breaking off where they mount.

Bicycle braking systems are normally designed to pull up something that is a maximum weight of 120 kg total. Braking something 3 or 4 times this weight is much more than what the system is designed for, the rotor will build up so much heat that it will warp and the fittings holding the brake caliper will eventually break.

You should be looking at systems for things like motor scooters.

Even though the weight of a motor scooter is not as much as an aircraft they are continuously braking from fairly high speeds and are more than strong enough for something like the X-Air. You will see that the brake caliper itself is probably twice the weight because it has a decent casting where it attaches to the frame and also the disk itself will be 3 times thicker.

Experience shows that the bicycle system especially if you go hydraulic works really well for things like engine run up at the first time you need to brake in a real emergency may end up in tears.



Robert Marietta wrote on 13/12/2022 12:05 am:
Can you give us the?Shimano model or part number you used.
Thanks, Bob

-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583
USA +1 213 984 1237


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...

skype name:   xcomavionics

Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.

"Amateurs practice till they get it right;
Professionals practice till they can’t get it wrong."


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

Hello everyone, the problem with using bicycle parts is they are simply not made to stop the weight of an aircraft. The calipers are just not strong enough and will eventually fail the first time you really need them, usually breaking off where they mount.

Bicycle braking systems are normally designed to pull up something that is a maximum weight of 120 kg total. Braking something 3 or 4 times this weight is much more than what the system is designed for, the rotor will build up so much heat that it will warp and the fittings holding the brake caliper will eventually break.

You should be looking at systems for things like motor scooters.

Even though the weight of a motor scooter is not as much as an aircraft they are continuously braking from fairly high speeds and are more than strong enough for something like the X-Air. You will see that the brake caliper itself is probably twice the weight because it has a decent casting where it attaches to the frame and also the disk itself will be 3 times thicker.

Experience shows that the bicycle system especially if you go hydraulic works really well for things like engine run up at the first time you need to brake in a real emergency may end up in tears.



Robert Marietta wrote on 13/12/2022 12:05 am:
Can you give us the?Shimano model or part number you used.
Thanks, Bob

-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583
USA +1 213 984 1237


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...

skype name:   xcomavionics

Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.

"Amateurs practice till they get it right;
Professionals practice till they can’t get it wrong."


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

Can you give us the?Shimano model or part number you used.
Thanks, Bob


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

So your Hanuman does not have shocks?

It's only your X Air standard?


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Clive Cunningham <kmmotor@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2022 10:50:21 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Ah, I may have introduced confusion!
The disc brakes are on my X -Air standard, with shocks
I also own an X-Air Hanuman, which has the bungee suspension.
I will be putting the disc system on that one soon, now I have proven that it works!
Cheers,



Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Justin Gregoris <jgregoris789@...>
Sent: Monday, 12 December 2022 12:34 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hello Clive

May you take more pictures of your aftermarket design in regards to your front and rear landing gear / suspension system on your X Air??

I am quite interested in what you did and how you like it - do you still have the bungee cord system in conjunction with the shocks?

If you may please elaborate on how you changed from bungees to shocks with measurements and/or overall design and size of actual shocks - would be greatly appreciated!?

Thanks

Justin?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Clive Cunningham <kmmotor@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2022 6:48:40 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
I have fitted disc brakes to mine.?
Using mechanical cable operated calipers and stainless steel disc rotors.?
Fabricated mounts from aluminium. Not pretty, I admit, but works fantastic!
?Way more braking with less pedal effort.
Probably shouldn't say where the brakes came from, but they are Shimano, and the shop had lots of lycra/ spandex pants for sale......

Cliffy.?


Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of gillis@... <gillis@...>
Sent: Sunday, 11 December 2022 5:13 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hey All, I recently bought a 2008 X - Air H. With original type shoes brakes. I was wanting Idea's about brake upgrade info. Thanks? Todd? Mooresboro, N,C,??


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

Ah, I may have introduced confusion!
The disc brakes are on my X -Air standard, with shocks
I also own an X-Air Hanuman, which has the bungee suspension.
I will be putting the disc system on that one soon, now I have proven that it works!
Cheers,



Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Justin Gregoris <jgregoris789@...>
Sent: Monday, 12 December 2022 12:34 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hello Clive

May you take more pictures of your aftermarket design in regards to your front and rear landing gear / suspension system on your X Air??

I am quite interested in what you did and how you like it - do you still have the bungee cord system in conjunction with the shocks?

If you may please elaborate on how you changed from bungees to shocks with measurements and/or overall design and size of actual shocks - would be greatly appreciated!?

Thanks

Justin?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Clive Cunningham <kmmotor@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2022 6:48:40 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
I have fitted disc brakes to mine.?
Using mechanical cable operated calipers and stainless steel disc rotors.?
Fabricated mounts from aluminium. Not pretty, I admit, but works fantastic!
?Way more braking with less pedal effort.
Probably shouldn't say where the brakes came from, but they are Shimano, and the shop had lots of lycra/ spandex pants for sale......

Cliffy.?


Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of gillis@... <gillis@...>
Sent: Sunday, 11 December 2022 5:13 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hey All, I recently bought a 2008 X - Air H. With original type shoes brakes. I was wanting Idea's about brake upgrade info. Thanks? Todd? Mooresboro, N,C,??


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

Hello Clive

May you take more pictures of your aftermarket design in regards to your front and rear landing gear / suspension system on your X Air??

I am quite interested in what you did and how you like it - do you still have the bungee cord system in conjunction with the shocks?

If you may please elaborate on how you changed from bungees to shocks with measurements and/or overall design and size of actual shocks - would be greatly appreciated!?

Thanks

Justin?


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Clive Cunningham <kmmotor@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2022 6:48:40 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
I have fitted disc brakes to mine.?
Using mechanical cable operated calipers and stainless steel disc rotors.?
Fabricated mounts from aluminium. Not pretty, I admit, but works fantastic!
?Way more braking with less pedal effort.
Probably shouldn't say where the brakes came from, but they are Shimano, and the shop had lots of lycra/ spandex pants for sale......

Cliffy.?


Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of gillis@... <gillis@...>
Sent: Sunday, 11 December 2022 5:13 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hey All, I recently bought a 2008 X - Air H. With original type shoes brakes. I was wanting Idea's about brake upgrade info. Thanks? Todd? Mooresboro, N,C,??


Re: X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

开云体育

I have fitted disc brakes to mine.?
Using mechanical cable operated calipers and stainless steel disc rotors.?
Fabricated mounts from aluminium. Not pretty, I admit, but works fantastic!
?Way more braking with less pedal effort.
Probably shouldn't say where the brakes came from, but they are Shimano, and the shop had lots of lycra/ spandex pants for sale......

Cliffy.?


Clive Cunningham

K&M HD Motorcycles

U2 5-9 Kingston Ave?

Richmond?

South Australia 5033??

Ph +61 8? 8234 1090?

kmmotor@...

kmmotorcycles.com.au





From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of gillis@... <gillis@...>
Sent: Sunday, 11 December 2022 5:13 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [XAIR] X-Air H Brake upgrade info
?
Hey All, I recently bought a 2008 X - Air H. With original type shoes brakes. I was wanting Idea's about brake upgrade info. Thanks? Todd? Mooresboro, N,C,??


X-Air H Brake upgrade info

 

Hey All, I recently bought a 2008 X - Air H. With original type shoes brakes. I was wanting Idea's about brake upgrade info. Thanks? Todd? Mooresboro, N,C,??


Re: Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces

 

开云体育

after splicing through the multiple broken plastic clip connections, the auxiliary fuel pump works as it should, but the ammeter still bounces around like crazy, once the pump is running and the motor is on high rpm.

when the pump is running, and the engine is on lower rpm or idle, the ammeter needle doesnt bounce around, just bounces around when the rpm's are over 2200rpm.

maybe its the specific make/model of this bravex fuel pump - perhaps the solenoid engineering/design within the pump causes this reaction, although the previous facet usa made fuel pump did not give this reaction/issue.


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Justin Gregoris <jgregoris789@...>
Sent: August 11, 2022 8:12 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces
?
The fuel pump only draws maximum 2 amps and I am already using stranded wire and I have replaced the plastic remote control type connectors with straight through butt connectors and heat trick and my fuel pump is grounded. I will go flying tomorrow morning and see if it works better now. Hopefully the loose negative terminal connector was not giving a proper ground, making the needle sounds like crazy. Fingers crossed.
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Rol <rol@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2022 5:51:06 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces
?


Actually, soldered connections are prone to failure in environments where vibration is a factor.? That is why in ,ost cases in aircraft crimped connections and stranded wire is the standard.? It maintains a secure but flexible connection.

In addition in corrosive environments the metal insolder can lead to dissililar metal corrosion.



On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 2:43 AM Jonathan Webb <avia1or01@...> wrote:

I'm far from an expert but it does sound to my befuddled amateur brain like a wiring issue.

Only thing for it is replace old connectors and possibly also cables. Soldered joints are always better. I spent yesterday replacing a temporary chocolate screw connector with a soldered connection. Its difficult to do neatly in the confines of? the cockpit.

How often should fuel pumps be replaced. Mine are original from when my aircraft was built in 2003. Its done around 450 hours. It has a Pierburg mechanical pump which you cannot get any-more and I have been advised that an old Piesburg is better than a new replacement. The electrical pump is also original but working fine.


Regards


Jon

X air Falcon

 
On 11/08/2022 02:23, Justin Gregoris wrote:
Hello everyone once again,

I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.

After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.

For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping - the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.

Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.

After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.

I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.

Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?

If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.

When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.

When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.

However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.

I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.

Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you!


Re: Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces

 

开云体育

The fuel pump only draws maximum 2 amps and I am already using stranded wire and I have replaced the plastic remote control type connectors with straight through butt connectors and heat trick and my fuel pump is grounded. I will go flying tomorrow morning and see if it works better now. Hopefully the loose negative terminal connector was not giving a proper ground, making the needle sounds like crazy. Fingers crossed.
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Rol <rol@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2022 5:51:06 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [XAIR] Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces
?


Actually, soldered connections are prone to failure in environments where vibration is a factor.? That is why in ,ost cases in aircraft crimped connections and stranded wire is the standard.? It maintains a secure but flexible connection.

In addition in corrosive environments the metal insolder can lead to dissililar metal corrosion.



On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 2:43 AM Jonathan Webb <avia1or01@...> wrote:

I'm far from an expert but it does sound to my befuddled amateur brain like a wiring issue.

Only thing for it is replace old connectors and possibly also cables. Soldered joints are always better. I spent yesterday replacing a temporary chocolate screw connector with a soldered connection. Its difficult to do neatly in the confines of? the cockpit.

How often should fuel pumps be replaced. Mine are original from when my aircraft was built in 2003. Its done around 450 hours. It has a Pierburg mechanical pump which you cannot get any-more and I have been advised that an old Piesburg is better than a new replacement. The electrical pump is also original but working fine.


Regards


Jon

X air Falcon

 
On 11/08/2022 02:23, Justin Gregoris wrote:
Hello everyone once again,

I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.

After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.

For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping - the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.

Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.

After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.

I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.

Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?

If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.

When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.

When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.

However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.

I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.

Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you!


Re: Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces

 



Actually, soldered connections are prone to failure in environments where vibration is a factor.? That is why in ,ost cases in aircraft crimped connections and stranded wire is the standard.? It maintains a secure but flexible connection.

In addition in corrosive environments the metal insolder can lead to dissililar metal corrosion.



On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 2:43 AM Jonathan Webb <avia1or01@...> wrote:

I'm far from an expert but it does sound to my befuddled amateur brain like a wiring issue.

Only thing for it is replace old connectors and possibly also cables. Soldered joints are always better. I spent yesterday replacing a temporary chocolate screw connector with a soldered connection. Its difficult to do neatly in the confines of? the cockpit.

How often should fuel pumps be replaced. Mine are original from when my aircraft was built in 2003. Its done around 450 hours. It has a Pierburg mechanical pump which you cannot get any-more and I have been advised that an old Piesburg is better than a new replacement. The electrical pump is also original but working fine.


Regards


Jon

X air Falcon

 
On 11/08/2022 02:23, Justin Gregoris wrote:
Hello everyone once again,

I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.

After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.

For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping - the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.

Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.

After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.

I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.

Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?

If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.

When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.

When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.

However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.

I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.

Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you!


Re: Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces

 

开云体育

Hello Justin, I was hoping someone else would jump in with more experience for me but it sounds to me like it is a grounding issue. When everything is running the ground is jumping all over the place. It is going to be happening when the fuel pump is going because it will draw a lot more power than just about anything else you have installed. Have you also grounded the fuel pump case itself? ??? this is very important, you just can't rely on the red and black wire going into the pump, the pump itself must be adequately grounded

Justin Gregoris wrote on 11/08/2022 11:23 am:
Hello everyone once again,

I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.

After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.

For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping - the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.

Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.

After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.

I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.

Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?

If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.

When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.

When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.

However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.

I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.

Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you!

-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583
USA +1 213 984 1237


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...

skype name:   xcomavionics

Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.

"Amateurs practice till they get it right;
Professionals practice till they can’t get it wrong."


Re: Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces

 

开云体育

I'm far from an expert but it does sound to my befuddled amateur brain like a wiring issue.

Only thing for it is replace old connectors and possibly also cables. Soldered joints are always better. I spent yesterday replacing a temporary chocolate screw connector with a soldered connection. Its difficult to do neatly in the confines of? the cockpit.

How often should fuel pumps be replaced. Mine are original from when my aircraft was built in 2003. Its done around 450 hours. It has a Pierburg mechanical pump which you cannot get any-more and I have been advised that an old Piesburg is better than a new replacement. The electrical pump is also original but working fine.


Regards


Jon

X air Falcon

 
On 11/08/2022 02:23, Justin Gregoris wrote:

Hello everyone once again,

I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.

After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.

For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping - the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.

Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.

After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.

I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.

Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?

If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.

When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.

When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.

However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.

I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.

Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you!


Analog Ammeter needle all of a sudden bounces

 

Hello everyone once again,

I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.

After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.

For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping - the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.

Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.

After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.

I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.

Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?

If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.

When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.

When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.

However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.

I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.

Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you!


Re: A MUST watch video of a Hanuman rebuild owned by Brent Dunphy

 

开云体育

What a beautiful looking plane!

Quite the head-turner.

Great job Brent!


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Michael Coates <mcoates@...>
Sent: Monday, August 8, 2022 5:52:56 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [XAIR] A MUST watch video of a Hanuman rebuild owned by Brent Dunphy
?





Who can think of a mallet joke to finish their video ?



After a long night at the bar, a man invites his friend to see his new apartment

The friend notices a large gong against the wall and asks, "What's with the gong?"

– "It's not a gong, it's a talking clock", he replies. He then picks up a mallet and hits the gong.


From the other side of the wall they both hear: "Shut the hell up! It's three in the morning for God's sake!"



-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583
USA +1 213 984 1237


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...

skype name:   xcomavionics

Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.

"Amateurs practice till they get it right;
Professionals practice till they can’t get it wrong."


A MUST watch video of a Hanuman rebuild owned by Brent Dunphy

 

开云体育






Who can think of a mallet joke to finish their video ?



After a long night at the bar, a man invites his friend to see his new apartment

The friend notices a large gong against the wall and asks, "What's with the gong?"

– "It's not a gong, it's a talking clock", he replies. He then picks up a mallet and hits the gong.


From the other side of the wall they both hear: "Shut the hell up! It's three in the morning for God's sake!"



-- 
With regards,    Michael Coates

AU +61 7 5522 0583
USA +1 213 984 1237


PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2012
Winner of the EAA August Raspet Award 2012
PIPISTREL AIRCRAFT DEALER OF THE YEAR 2017

mailto:mcoates@...

skype name:   xcomavionics

Please note: because of the volume of e-mail we are now receiving our replies are
done using voice recognition software in an effort to speed up the reply process. 
Sometimes the voice recognition program inserts silly words or doesn't actually
do what it is meant to do.  Occasionally these mistakes get through our quick
proofreading of each e-mail sent, so please accept my apologies if the odd mistake
gets through.

Legal Notice: The information contained in this email is confidential
and intended only to be read by the person(s) to whom it is addressed.
No one is authorized to copy, use, disclose, distribute or rely on this
information for any purpose whatsoever. If this communication has been
sent to you in error, please email the sender and delete the message.

"Amateurs practice till they get it right;
Professionals practice till they can’t get it wrong."


Re: Hanuman bungee

 

So a total of 4 9044s is what you used?


?Kevin
Jul 28???
I replaced mine with two 9044 bungees per side. One each was a bit soft, two worked just fine.