after splicing through the multiple broken plastic clip connections, the auxiliary fuel pump works as it should, but the ammeter still bounces around like crazy, once the pump is running and the motor is on high rpm.
when the pump is running, and the engine is on lower rpm or idle, the ammeter needle doesnt bounce around, just bounces around when the rpm's are over 2200rpm.
maybe its the specific make/model of this bravex fuel pump - perhaps the solenoid engineering/design within the pump causes this reaction, although the previous facet usa made fuel pump did not give this reaction/issue.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The fuel pump only draws maximum 2 amps and I am already using stranded wire and I have replaced the plastic remote control type connectors with straight through butt connectors and heat trick and my fuel pump is grounded. I will go flying tomorrow morning
and see if it works better now. Hopefully the loose negative terminal connector was not giving a proper ground, making the needle sounds like crazy. Fingers crossed.
Actually, soldered connections are prone to failure in environments where vibration is a factor.? That is why in ,ost cases in aircraft crimped connections and stranded wire is the standard.? It maintains a secure but flexible connection.
In addition in corrosive environments the metal insolder can lead to dissililar metal corrosion.
On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 2:43 AM Jonathan Webb <
avia1or01@...> wrote:
I'm far from an expert but it does sound to my befuddled amateur brain like a wiring issue.
Only thing for it is replace old connectors and possibly also cables. Soldered joints are always better. I spent yesterday replacing a temporary chocolate screw connector with a soldered connection. Its difficult to do neatly in the confines of? the cockpit.
How often should fuel pumps be replaced. Mine are original from when my aircraft was built in 2003. Its done around 450 hours. It has a Pierburg mechanical pump which you cannot get any-more and I have been advised that an old Piesburg is better than a new
replacement. The electrical pump is also original but working fine.
Regards
Jon
X air Falcon
On 11/08/2022 02:23, Justin Gregoris wrote:
Hello everyone once again,
I changed my facet cube auxiliary electric fuel pump with a bravex auxiliary electric fuel pump. The specifications between the both are merely identical - my current bravex pump has a current draw of 1-2amps with 2-4psi output.
After I installed it yesterday and went flying today, the ammeter inside my cockpit registers current draw of about 5-8amps give or take, but as soon as I switch the auxiliary pump on, the needle bounces back and forth like it's going crazy. No beakers pop/open
but I'm confused as to why the ammeter needle is bouncing; it's bounces almost like one would simulate the same phenomenon by shaking the Ammeter, if it were to be disconnected, in your hands, sort of thing.
For starters, I changed the facet pump thinking it was defective when it stopped working, but afterwards re-plumbing new fuel lines with a check valve and after Installing a new pump, I then realized the wire connector was the culprit of the pump stopping -
the puno was fine but rather the wire and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump had 2 sets of cheap plastic push-on connectors that were 15 years old and landing on rough grass field, probably exacerbated the connection to finally malfunctioning, amongst oxidization
and humidity, and quality of connector, etc.
Anyway today I went flying with the new bravex fuel pump, soon realizing the brand new bravex fuel pump stop working.
After I landed I was surprised to find out if I got a defective new pump. I then chased the wires and circuit of the auxiliary fuel pump one more, to then realized I noticed yet another cheap push on connect. I moved the last cheap connector that was part of
this circuit around, at which point the new bravex fuel pump states to work again.
I will remove this last problematic connection and splice a straight through connection.
Could my ammeter needle be bouncing abruptly because of this (last) poor connection in the auxiliary pump circuit, or could that be a coincidence and the ammeter needle bouncing in the dial be tied towards something else?
If i don't turn on the newly installed pump, the needle doesn't bounce, but rather accurately measures total current in the entire electrical circuit of the plane.
When I turned on the auxiliary pump with the engine off, the needle also did not bounce around like crazy.
When I had the engine running more or less at idle, with the auxiliary pump on, the needle did not bounce around even then.
However, once I applied full throttle and got off the ground with the auxiliary pump on, the needle then started bouncing around back and forth like crazy.
I will be fixing the last connection issue tomorrow, but thought I'd reach out to you all for any advice.
Maybe once I fix the last connection problem within the auxiliary pump circuit, will the ammeter needle stop acting this way?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thank you!
