开云体育

I ran the German version of that U3 book through Google Translate, and uploaded the English version to the Files section (might not be perfect, but it's pretty good). Thanks again to Herman for scanning it! It has some great info: /g/Unimat/files/Unimat3-BasicTechnicalKnowledgeAndPracticalApplication-ENGLISH.pdf Given how useful that was, I'll press my luck and ask if anyone has two other educational Emco publications: "Emco Unimat Basic Course Instruction Manual" or "Emco Programmed Exercises" These are listed in the bibliography of DJ Laidlaww-Dickson's "The Book of the Unimat." Foreign language versions welcome! And I can help get it scanned if you need assistance. Cheers, Joel

The Pinol drive on my Unimat MK 4 had caries. It was already missing several tooth segments. There are a few suppliers online who still sell such parts, but the freight costs were too high. I ordered 1 pinion with 10 teeth from E-Bay. I needed a total of 2 sprockets for a Pinol drive. These are 10 mm long without hub and grub screw. The rest of the material was still available in the stock. The shaft was turned in the collet chuck. The pinions were drilled out to ?5 mm and reamed. All parts were joined together with Loctite High Strength and the two gear wheels were aligned with the teeth. After the adhesive had hardened, the transitions between the two gears were smoothed with a very fine needle file.

In my search for a collet chuck device for my Unimat DB, I have unfortunately not found what I was looking for. The problem is the ES collets, which are almost impossible to get. I have made my own collet device for ER 16 collets. I first pre-machined the basic body from 42CrMo4 heat-treated steel on the large lathe. Both the fit for the holder and the taper seat for the collet. The thread was turned in the same clamping as the collet taper. I then set the headstock of the Unimat to the collet taper and turned it on the small Unimat by only a few 1/10 mm. this way the taper runs with a maximum deflection of 1.5/100 mm. I bought the clamping nut from the Chinaman. You can find the pictures on my homepage. https://mueller-bruno.de/emco-db-200-1000.html

Does anyone have a copy of the book "Basic Technical Information and Practical Applications of the Unimat 3"? I saw it in the "HobbyProducts_(NeilsCompressed).pdf" catalog from the files section, but can't find much at all about it online. It seems to have only been mentioned once in this group. If anyone has a PDF I'd be grateful. Or if you have a physical copy, I'd be interested in helping you get it scanned. Thanks! Joel

I just purchased a new Yoctosun Magnifier. It has interchangeable lenses and I wear them like glasses. Light weight and easy to wear. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

Hi Keith: I had a similar idea for Braces: Six braces on a rack with tools in place: 1) Straight blade screwdriver 2) 90° counter sink 3) 1/8" to 3/4" tapered reamer 4) Pipe reamer 5) 1/4" hex socket 6) 1/2" square socket driver I also have a drill motor mounted on the wall for deburring: I use a sewing machine foot control for on/off and speed control. Carl.

Was a hand crank standard issue with the original Unimat??? If not, I will need to produce one for my Unimat. In the past I made one for my 7x16 mini lathe. -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

I need to make some fine grooves, in aluminium or stainless (304). I'm making a very simple lap steel guitar, and this is for the nut - the piece just below the tuners that the strings pass over, at the end of the fingerboard. The strings are the following thickness: inches mm 0.012 0.30 0.016 0.41 0.024 0.61 0.032 0.81 0.044 1.12 0.056 1.42 Ideally the string should sit in a semi-circular groove (the same size, halfway in) but I don't think this will be possible. A flat bottomed or 45 degree sided groove is more likely. Specialist luthiers nut files are too expensive for a one-off job. One suggestion I have seen is to grind down hacksaw blades on a bench grinder to the correct thickness. It would be good to use the Unimat though. An angled (chamfering) end mill might just do the larger sizes but I doubt the point is very fine on them to make the smallest grooves. I see that ball nose end mills go down to 1mm. You folks know a lot more about what's available and (more importantly) what is likely to work! - what would you suggest? I'm in the UK by the way. Many thanks!