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I saw a a table saw on Ebay if anyone cares. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=325289767 Searching for the best free email? Try MetaCrawler Mail, from the #1 metasearch service on the Web, http://www.metacrawler.com

You wouldn't happen to know the Emco part number and I can look through my stuff. Searching for the best free email? Try MetaCrawler Mail, from the #1 metasearch service on the Web, http://www.metacrawler.com

If anyone is interested there is a nice DB200 on Yahoo item#25245691 mike

Has anyone seen the lathes like Turnmatic and Quantum that resemble the Unimat 4 lathe? The milling attachment is very different from the Unimat, but can anyone tell me if the fine feed vertical attachment of the Unimat 4 can be used in this machines?

I have a very good condition DB200 with all the usual items plus a live center and a custom made two tool holder, It has the 90 watt motor, and the extra long hex wrench though there is no case. Looking for an offer. Can send Polaroid photos. Dave Fisher

Hello All. I've been building models for many years now. I would like to buy a small lathe an Unimat 3 plus accessories would be the best for me now as I build only in 1:35 and 1:43 scales and I also don't have the room for a bigger lathe. Thank you very much. Ian Howes. Fax (089) 329 29 685.

Sorry please E-mail me at, ian.howes@... or Fax (089) 329 29 685 Thanks. Ian Howes Munchen,Germany.

Sorry please E-mail me at, ian.howes@... or Fax (089) 329 29 685 Thanks. Ian Howes Munchen,Germany.

I plan to make a few T-nuts for my SL, but I don't have one from which I can take dimensions. (I know some folks sell them, but $8.50 a piece seems a bit steep to me.) Would any owner mind posting the dimensions (diameter and pitch of thread, length, total thickness, width and height of nut, and width of tongue)? I'd sure appreciate it. Joel

A couple of ppeople have ask me to post this pic of my set up. It has my QC adjustible tool holder and the base I had castso I could keep the Milling column in place. I recently got a newer headstock, so now have both mounted. My original machine is a DB200 bot in 1959 or so. If you would like, I'll take the rig outside in the sunshine & take some more pix to post. I've made a few other attachments. Mert

I`ve had Unimat SL 1000 for 35 years, Thinking of going a little bigger? Does any body think the Grizzy 7x12 is better than the Unimat, other than the 3" dia. of the chuck, verses the 2" dia. of the Unimat?

I'm wondering if our members can/will dig up articles and books they have on Unimats (or even tiny lathes), such as from Model Engineer, Modelmaker, train mags, etc etc?? Sharing this stuff could help us all?? -Guy-

Well Mert, obviously everybody's got their own calculus on this topic of what type of lathe to get..... (because of other boards) I think you and your projects are much advanced over today's typical modeller or hobbyist. If one is using mild steel, alum & brass in the sizes appropriate to the Uni lathe & mill, and is reasonably mechanically proficient, I think a Unimat setup at even $600 is actually cost-effective compared to Sherline/Taig/Clisby or offshore And some folks refuse (or are very reluctant) to buy Chicom "stuff". (Altho I lurk on the 7x10 board, I doubt I'll ever buy one!). I personally want to optimise my Unimat without destroying its basic character (and turn up to 4"). I may take the modification a step further and build a stronger and larger separate rod-bed and crosslide for my Unimat mill..... For upsize stuff, I'm going to build the Gingery series of tools, and if I get time for my cupola, I'm gonna cast iron tools even bigger. As to producing thread masters, some research is in order: 1. what is Blueridge's price / how many do they sell / how many do they have left?? 2. what does eBay bidding show? the same 10-20 people wrangling over the goods?? how many folks set these auctions out due to occasionally rediculous prices?? 3. what do other guys think who deal with the Unimat market (Doug? who sells belts, Steve Jaynes who buys/sells, etc) -Guy- got milling that masters a 36 of Uni,

Getting info is why I appreciate the internet..... Ooooops, there are other accessories I DIDN'T get with my used Unimat, one of which is the threading setup. I have since put about $100 into assembling a complete threading mechanism (off eBay), but don't (yet) have any "thread formers". I'm also NOT about to spend $375 or whatever Blueridge charges for a set of formers. (Digression: I visit eBay for Unimats and small lathes at least once a week, because I've learned a LOT just by reading the text (occassionally emailing the seller) and looking at pictures. I often print them out to save, but haven't saved them in PC, so can't send them) One thing I learned about was watchmakers lathes (experienced, ain't I?), and in particular a really nice Levin round bed lathe which had a gear train atttached. The text directed me to the book "Practical Benchwork for Horologists" by Louis Levin, which has the plans in it for building that threading gear train! I intend to build that dude for my Uni, and then I can make any length or type of thread, and my own Uni thread formers (for giggles). You can buy that book NEW for about $19+ from http://www.theclockman.com/ (he sells the Goodrich Lathe book on eBay...) -Guy- in Sandy Eggo

What exactly is a "feed shaft assembly" for a SL1000?

UNIMAT U-90 MOTOR QUESTIONS Guys, I have 2 Unimats and 3 U-90 motors. 2 of the motors are apart, because the drive-end bushing / shaft fits were loose and noisy. One shaft is significantly worn. This lack of good motors is slowing my already glacially slow progress on projects! These U-90s have unusual bronze (?) bushings with ends that are rounded to fit into the housing cavity. I have the following questions that I hope listers can help with: 1) Does the shaft spin in the bushing, or the bushing spin in the housing? 2) Any experience or ideas on repair techniques? 3) What are appropriate U-90 maintenance activities and schedules? 4) Any ideas on (fairly) easily adaptable motors (that are reasonably affordable)? On a similar note: According to folks with more experience than me, if your motor is rigidly fixed to the lathe (like Uni) and it is unbalanced or rough running, that vibration may well be transferred to your work piece as chatter. Unimats above all other lathes need smooth, balanced motors with good bearings….. Thanx, -Guy-

MILLING & FLYCUTTING Listers: I was end-milling and flycutting some aluminum this weekend with my Unimat. I had trammed the head as well as I knew, and think it was good because as the backside of the flycutter passed over the already cut surface, it just touched but did not cut that surface. However, when using the 3/8 inch endmill in the same setup, the rows of milling were deeper on one side. How can that be?? The flycutter sure does leave a better surface finish than the mill! Any ideas?? Thanx, -Guy- PS, my email is still terminally screwed up.

Guys, I bought a small Johnson heat treat furnace, but don't know diddly about it! Anyone know where to find Johnson? Any heat treat furnace experience?? -Guy-