开云体育

what year vanagon ?
the only metal core vanagon radiator is the 82 Diesel Vanagon ..
one year only ..
replaced immediately the next year by aluminum core, plastic tank
radiators..
that work just excellently.
That's all you need to know really about radiator choice for
subaru-vanagons ..
I just order a '91 Vanagon' radiator ..
they are just perfect for the application.

the standard thing to do on any 82 diesel vanagon is upgrade to the 83
and later radiator.

scott

OEM Vanagon rad is aluminium - no problem!

On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 4:56 PM, Basil <myth.wright@...> wrote:

**


Pondering on the cooling system for my conversion, it occurs to me that
there's the potential problem of dissimilar metals with the aluminum heads
and copper rad. I know that the coolant is designed to minimise this, but I
see that the OEM suby rad is aluminum, presumably to reduce this kind of
corrosion. Has anyone ever replaced their stock vanagon rad with an
aluminum one because of this?

Nathaniel

--
Jake
------------------------------------------
Crescent Beach, BC
-----------------------------------------------------
1984 GL 1.9 WBX
1986 Westy Weekender/2000 2.5 SOHC
with 5 speed transaxle & PosiTrac Differential

The IMI is one choice. The VW TDI is another. The VW TDI starter requires an adapter found here:?
.
I have had both and both work well.

Sorry for the bad explanation. The toothed gear on the back of the torque converter that the starter engages to make the engine turn over. I hope that is better. I am positive that the torque converter is properly seated and and bolted. Ill check out the imi starter...

Nathaniel:
Not a problem. The original engine is largely aluminum, too. Replacement Behr radiators are aluminum so if you ever replace your original radiator you will probably get an aluminum one. Aluminum does not transmit heat quite as well as copper but on the plus side it is lighter.
Craig

Pondering on the cooling system for my conversion, it occurs to me that there's the potential problem of dissimilar metals with the aluminum heads and copper rad. I know that the coolant is designed to minimise this, but I see that the OEM suby rad is aluminum, presumably to reduce this kind of corrosion. Has anyone ever replaced their stock vanagon rad with an aluminum one because of this?

Nathaniel

sounds like you should take that starter out and see what's going on
with it.
or perhaps you did...

I can't figure what 'the grooves for the starter turn the engn" means.

grooves ?

Is the torque converter properly bolted to the drive plate. ?

there is the IMI gear reduction aftermarket starter ...that's one choice.

curious what you mean by 'grooves' though.

Okay Iv'e posted here before and want to thank all of the collaborative efforts from everyone that makes this site work... I have been doing a conversion and I have started it, sorted out all my fluids. I just rebuilt the rear (trailing arms, shocks, bearings, CV boots joints etc.... SO I am just about ready to take for a test drive. Tomo I will take it off the jack stands.

COuple questions about starting: I have a new battery and since day one since I first fired it up the started sounds week, almost like its skipping. It engages then takes a bit to turn the 2.5 over and the engine fires up and I get a bad scrapping grinding sound like the starter is still engageing. I have a 1985 Westy A/T with a 2003 2.5. It also seems like the starter just gets it going.

Second: This weekend I was messing with lights etc... and had the lights on and off so the battery was a little run down. I started the engine again and it sound like it skips more with a lower battery. but it fires up fine and runs smooth. I charged it and fired it up again now that horrble sound keeps going like the starter is staying engaged. I looked at the torque converter where the grooves for the starter turn the engn and its not chewed up at all. I only let it run maybe 3-4 seconds with that horrible sound like the starter not dieengeaging?

Is there a correct starter or after market I can get to solve this problem... Thanks so much.

Just thought I would put this out there for future users.

After a LOT of taking things apart, cleaning, looking for vac leaks, rechecking timing, etc...I finally found out the pin # to check if my computer thought it was a auto trans or manual trans?

It thought it was still an auto trans which meant it was keeping a high idle so the torque converter would not stall the car when put into gear. Obviously not needed when insatalled in a manual trans vehicle.

I also learned a lot during this process after a few weeks of messing with this. The computer is god! No matter what I did to try to lower the idle for that matter raise it above it's set limit it would correct back to where it was at. I mean nothing would change it, pretty impressive actually.

again this is a 99 2.2 atuo trans(phase 2) Non outback Legacy engine/ecu

The plug is # B135 (middle plug)in the ECU and the position is # 25 it is an open plug that needed to be grounded. To test this I simply put a paperclip into the slot when plugged in and ran it to ground, the moment I touched it...pure magic, the idle went right down to a nice steady normal level (sorry I don't have a tach) but I am guessing about 700 from about 1300 (I'm guessing)

My conversion is now complete :)
Thanks, Todd.

Very nice looking header by Stans headers shown here?
Its great to see a product offered made here in the USA with some good ol American worksmanship ?Nice Job Stan !!!!!?And it looks like it will work just great with all my Burley conversion parts ie modular 6qt oil pan mount or our famous old school ''Burley '' pan.Cheers Burley

www.burleysmotorsports.com World class custom Syncro parts

You would have to drive around with the plate door open to show off the bling bling!! but ya snake oil.

I have used Gundies for a toyota engine. They are great. There truck dropped off the engine in everett for 20 bucks (60+ miles south). After a compression check found a dead hole/valve and they were down the next day with an exchange. Good guys.

jcl

My Stan's header is still going strong!! The extra ceramic coating is going to sh!#, But the header is great. The ball cup system adds no stress on the pipes. I should have got the standard coating. I think they are 399.00 on his web sight.

I have been told they hit the syncro skide plate but are great for the 2wd. It only hangs down 4.5 inch from the head, thats about the same level as the water inlet or 1.0 inch lower that the oil filter. I post this because iv read guys saying Stan's header hangs lower than the stock oil pan. Its not true.



jcl

Subaru ECU's mount in the stock 2.1 waterboxer ECU holder/cover just
perfectly.
I usually have to trim some material away and drill one hole ..
but it's 'a fitter' ..
Gotta use any 'fitter' in my book.

where the ecu was before is totally perfect.
The ecu does not know what angle is it mounted at ..
upside down..
on it's side.....it doesn't care or know.

'in the passenger compartment' ..is the nicest environment for ecu's.
if your nutty ...rig a small computer fan to circulate air under the
back seat for some cooling ...
but no manufacturer does that.

scott
www.turbovans.com

So, I believe I am getting closer to figuring out my high idle, it seems every time I do anything at all the, like pull a vac line off of even the temp sensor, the idle will come down to a normal rate and then climb right back up to where it always is. I would like to double check that the harness was set up to disregard it thinking it's still in an auto trans.
I have read that this can be the culprit of a high idle and it sure seems like the computer is working hard to keep the idle in a higher place.
again the donor vehicle was a 99 legacy 2.2 auto trans.

again thank you all for any help.
Todd

Howdy, making great strides on my sohc 2.5 install in my 87 vanagon.
I have found that the distance from engine plugs to ecu is plently and needs no mods, and I have been looking at how to mount my ecu under the rear seat. I was thinking about using the little mounts from the old ecu. But does the subaru ecu mind being mounted at a 30 degree angle on the wall between the rear seat and the transmission? any thoughts would be great! cheers
Dustin

Hello,
?
92 SVX into 86 MT vanagon

a little update,? so I checked to see if the fan worked by jumping the two thicker wires from the plug at the radiator thermo switch, and it came on.? Then i put in a new thermo switch and went for a drive... fan works now.? with the fan working the temp gauge gets just above the LED then the fan comes on.? I have yet to see the gauge go above that mark with the fan working.?Thank you guys for the help.
?
Derek

From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@...>
To: subaruvanagon@...
Cc: Derek Hall <nofdhall@...>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Re: temperature gauge and coolant LED question


hi..
all sounds pretty normal and healthy to me ..
except you might try 'more resistor' in at your gauge temp sensor ..
but that's not the right way really, to operate your VW temp gauge and Subaru engine with subaru temp sensor.

Just let it idle ...if it's cold out it will take 'forever' for the fan to come on ..
but normally ..just let it idle a while as temp gradually increases..
the fan will come on if it's going to.

what I like to see is fan comes on ..runs a minute or two ..shuts off..
then goes back on in another minute or two ...
if you see regular cylcing on and off of the rad fan like that..
you know the whole thing is working ..
coolant is circulatiing nicely ...
etc.
Don't get tricked by the fact that at a lowish idle rpm ..
the subaru water pump doesn't really move coolant to the front very well..
Sometimes it takes 1,200 rpm or so to get the coolant moving at idle rpm.?

you can also jumper the wires at the fan sender switch ..
that should make the fan run..
telling you it all works ......except the sensor in the fan.?

I don't think the reistor method is really right to operate the temp gauge , seems to me if it's calibrated to be correct at around? around 180 degrees ..it might be off at other temps .

scott
turbovans.com



On 4/23/2012 11:04 AM, Derek Hall wrote:
?

Hello,
?
92 SVX into 86 MT vanagon
?
I had a simlilar experiance yesterday, I've have had my conversion done since last November and the temp out side here in the northwest has not been warm.? I have the 22 ohm resister with the suby temp sender set up.? normally the neddle is right at the LED light on the VW temp gauge.?
?
?I drove to the?ocean?this weekend and?on the way down there the?temp gauge was above the normal mark?so i stopped and checked with IR gun.? 180 going to the radiator and 160 coming back to the engine.?
?
Then on the way back from the ocean the temp gauge was even higher (and the temp outside was too)?for a long time then on a hill climb the LED started blinking.? I stopped again and check ?things out with the IR gun and it was around 195 going to the raditor and 175 coming back to the engine.
?
1. has this happed to anyone else?
2. Can i just add more then 22 ohms to the sender line?
3. how do i check if the radiaor fan is working properly?
Thanks,
Derek

From: jared.kratz <jared.kratz@...>
To: subaruvanagon@...
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 6:58 AM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: temperature gauge and coolant LED question

?
Thanks to all the reply's. I think maybe my coolant tank wasn't filled high enough. I will test a few things on monday when I get the chance. Thanks again for the suggestions and knowledge.

jared

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Alabaster John <lagunarace@...> wrote:

Hi Jared, here are a couple of things to consider. The connections on the coolant bottle must be good or the light will blink and the gauge will peg high in a few seconds, even though there is no overheating. Also, the coolant bottle has to be filled high enough or you will get the same scenario. With things working right, it will take a while to see the needle climb to normal, especially at idle. Even when you drive and put some load on it, figure on a mile or so before you see some needle movement. John

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Tom Shiels" <tom@...> wrote:

Hi DK,
Definitely not off topic.

I have heard that argument before but I know for sure that Subaru fires the injectors in valve opening sequence. Also have heard that firing them out of sequence changes engine performance. I recommend keeping them in the correct firing sequence.

Tom
Burlington ON

-----------------------------------------------------------

I would recommend keeping the wiring to each injector just where the schematic says it should be in the interests of diagnostics especially on a OBDII install.

I am going to test his on a non OBD equipped engine and let you know my findings. Then if I find an OBDII engine I'll do the same and check O2 readings.


regards
dk

I have a shop in ga body paint mech cabinets carpet buying tube bender for racks bumpers and more Email address rbm236@...

Hi DK,
Definitely not off topic.

I have heard that argument before but I know for sure that Subaru fires the injectors in valve opening sequence. Also have heard that firing them out of sequence changes engine performance. I recommend keeping them in the correct firing sequence.

Tom
Burlington ON