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Re: Mystery of the disappearing oil

Larry Hamm
 

Yes, but that involves only the later engines, ~'05+, which have exhibited oil usage when equipped with the Small Car pan and dipstick. I don't believe conversions with other pans have weighed in with similar problems, at least not yet.

Larry H.

On 5/16/2012 12:42 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
speaking of PCV system ..
there's been some posting about more elaborate and evolved breather
systems for subaru-vanaongs recently.
and it may have been to fix an oil consumption problem. Maybe 3 weeks ago.


Re: Mystery of the disappearing oil

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

speaking of PCV system ..
there's been some posting about more elaborate and evolved breather
systems for subaru-vanaongs recently.
and it may have been to fix an oil consumption problem. Maybe 3 weeks ago.

On 5/15/2012 10:03 PM, tlwelbor wrote:


I apologize for not putting the year of the engine, it is a 1997. Oil
has not been overfilled, at least not while I have had it. The owner I
purchased the van from was really good about maintenance, etc. and
disclosed any issues he had had with the van. It is possible that the
owner before him may have run it overfilled (just a speculative
answer). I have only had the van since January, so I am pretty
ignorant on the history of the vehicle.

Scott and Udo, thanks for the help. I'll check the PCV valve and go
from there.

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Scott Daniel - Turbovans
<ScottDaniel@...> wrote:

You can easily have oil consumption with no blue or black smoke out the
tailpipe,
on any semi-modern engine with catalytic converter and electronic fuel
injection.

It it's not dripping out anywhere...and the oil level is going down, it
has to be burning it.

the 90 Legacy 2.2 is known for an oil issue ..if you happen to have
that
year Legacy 2.2

also on your oil level and total amount ..you're not running it
overfull
are you ?
Pretty important.

On 5/15/2012 5:55 PM, tlwelbor wrote:

After checking my oil level Sunday evening, I found the engine to be
several quarts short. I had not driven the van in a couple weeks
after
returning from a 2000 mile trip. The oil levels were fine, according
to the dip stick, before leaving on the trip and when I returned. I
had run the engine while trying to determine an LED coolant light
issue (which I solved thanks to the help from everyone here - or
rather may have solved if this turns out to be related). The van had
been checked out during the trip by a trusted mechanic who helped
determined the light was not related to the engine by checking fluid
levels, changing the thermostat, and switching out the temp sensor.
Since the van was not emitting dark clouds of exhaust while the
engine
was running and there are no oil stains in my drive way where it has
been sitting, I am perplexed. Anyone have any ideas about what is
going on.

1985 Vanagon Campmobile with an EJ2.2 from a Legacy/

Thanks for the help,




Re: Mystery of the disappearing oil

tlwelbor
 

I apologize for not putting the year of the engine, it is a 1997. Oil has not been overfilled, at least not while I have had it. The owner I purchased the van from was really good about maintenance, etc. and disclosed any issues he had had with the van. It is possible that the owner before him may have run it overfilled (just a speculative answer). I have only had the van since January, so I am pretty ignorant on the history of the vehicle.

Scott and Udo, thanks for the help. I'll check the PCV valve and go from there.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:

You can easily have oil consumption with no blue or black smoke out the
tailpipe,
on any semi-modern engine with catalytic converter and electronic fuel
injection.

It it's not dripping out anywhere...and the oil level is going down, it
has to be burning it.

the 90 Legacy 2.2 is known for an oil issue ..if you happen to have that
year Legacy 2.2

also on your oil level and total amount ..you're not running it overfull
are you ?
Pretty important.

On 5/15/2012 5:55 PM, tlwelbor wrote:

After checking my oil level Sunday evening, I found the engine to be
several quarts short. I had not driven the van in a couple weeks after
returning from a 2000 mile trip. The oil levels were fine, according
to the dip stick, before leaving on the trip and when I returned. I
had run the engine while trying to determine an LED coolant light
issue (which I solved thanks to the help from everyone here - or
rather may have solved if this turns out to be related). The van had
been checked out during the trip by a trusted mechanic who helped
determined the light was not related to the engine by checking fluid
levels, changing the thermostat, and switching out the temp sensor.
Since the van was not emitting dark clouds of exhaust while the engine
was running and there are no oil stains in my drive way where it has
been sitting, I am perplexed. Anyone have any ideas about what is
going on.

1985 Vanagon Campmobile with an EJ2.2 from a Legacy/

Thanks for the help,


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: significance of different cel codes w/green connectors

dmz
 

Thanks Tom,
That makes perfect sense, and I appreciate the break-down.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Tom Shiels" <tom@...> wrote:

Hi Greg,
Normally the ECU will not report codes immediately with the Green Test Mode connectors connected - but if the ECU see serious engine performance issues it will report them immediately. In your case:

Code 35 CPC solenoid - always seems to report immediately - you need to check the solenoid valve to see if it has gone open circuit - common failure mechanism. Correct this one first and see what happens to the others.

Code 21 - coolant temperature - check to be sure it is plugged in.

Code 42 - Idle switch - check to be sure the TPS is set so the idle switch is closed when the throttle is closed.

The codes 51 and 33 usually do not come up until the engine has run at >2000 rpm for 45 seconds.

I hope this makes some sense,
Tom
Burlington ON


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "dmz" <dmzwesty@> wrote:

1994 ej22 in an 85
Here's what I wondering about:

When I first start up, with the van only sitting there at idle, I immediately get 3 codes. 35, 42, 21.

But after driving for awhile, I get those plus 33 and 51.

This is only with the green connectors.

So is there a significance to the separation of codes?


Re: Throw out bearing travel

Larry Hamm
 

Fuzzy,

I doubt you will find anyone on this list who has that info. It's not something that matters in the vast majority of SubaruVanagon conversions. If I needed the info you're looking for, I'd inquire at NASOIC or a similar Subaru list/site.

Larry H.

On 5/15/2012 7:13 PM, Fuzzy Bear wrote:
ALL the normally aspirated Subaru clutches are push type. They all
interchange with each other, at least up to the mid 2000s, I
understand. That is with the commonly used single mass fly wheel.
All EJ series.

If I could get to a car or transmission, I would, if I could and
measure.

I have a linearly actuating concentric hydraulic TO bearing. Before
another one gets damaged I want to know what the normal TO range is
for a stock application.


Re: Mystery of the disappearing oil

 

If no smoke and no leaks, start with a new PCV valve. Often overlooked when
engines (not just Subaru) are using oil.


Re: Mystery of the disappearing oil

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

You can easily have oil consumption with no blue or black smoke out the
tailpipe,
on any semi-modern engine with catalytic converter and electronic fuel
injection.

It it's not dripping out anywhere...and the oil level is going down, it
has to be burning it.

the 90 Legacy 2.2 is known for an oil issue ..if you happen to have that
year Legacy 2.2

also on your oil level and total amount ..you're not running it overfull
are you ?
Pretty important.

On 5/15/2012 5:55 PM, tlwelbor wrote:

After checking my oil level Sunday evening, I found the engine to be
several quarts short. I had not driven the van in a couple weeks after
returning from a 2000 mile trip. The oil levels were fine, according
to the dip stick, before leaving on the trip and when I returned. I
had run the engine while trying to determine an LED coolant light
issue (which I solved thanks to the help from everyone here - or
rather may have solved if this turns out to be related). The van had
been checked out during the trip by a trusted mechanic who helped
determined the light was not related to the engine by checking fluid
levels, changing the thermostat, and switching out the temp sensor.
Since the van was not emitting dark clouds of exhaust while the engine
was running and there are no oil stains in my drive way where it has
been sitting, I am perplexed. Anyone have any ideas about what is
going on.

1985 Vanagon Campmobile with an EJ2.2 from a Legacy/

Thanks for the help,


Re: Throw out bearing travel

 

ALL the normally aspirated Subaru clutches are push type. They all interchange with each other, at least up to the mid 2000s, I understand. That is with the commonly used single mass fly wheel. All EJ series.

If I could get to a car or transmission, I would, if I could and measure.

I have a linearly actuating concentric hydraulic TO bearing. Before another one gets damaged I want to know what the normal TO range is for a stock application.


Mystery of the disappearing oil

tlwelbor
 

After checking my oil level Sunday evening, I found the engine to be several quarts short. I had not driven the van in a couple weeks after returning from a 2000 mile trip. The oil levels were fine, according to the dip stick, before leaving on the trip and when I returned. I had run the engine while trying to determine an LED coolant light issue (which I solved thanks to the help from everyone here - or rather may have solved if this turns out to be related). The van had been checked out during the trip by a trusted mechanic who helped determined the light was not related to the engine by checking fluid levels, changing the thermostat, and switching out the temp sensor. Since the van was not emitting dark clouds of exhaust while the engine was running and there are no oil stains in my drive way where it has been sitting, I am perplexed. Anyone have any ideas about what is going on.

1985 Vanagon Campmobile with an EJ2.2 from a Legacy/

Thanks for the help,


Re: Throw out bearing travel

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

perhaps someone has a subaru car of your model , whatever it is, with
the engine out and they can measure that for you.
Or you could look at subaru cars in junkyards that have their engines
removed.

my hunch is it's over 1/2 inch of linear travel.
there also seems to be a lot of leeway built into the stock vanagon
clutch hydraulic system .
I've never heard of any case of not enough travel.

I put a high performance dampened subaru flywheel and clutch into one van ..
using stock vanagon clutch hyd system ..it worked perfectly. Plenty of
TOB travel, full and complete release..pushed enough on the pressure
plate, but didn't push too far either.

do you think you are having a problem of not enough TOB travel, or too
much ?

On 5/15/2012 5:43 PM, Fuzzy Bear wrote:

I have a converted van.

It is important to know what the original throw out bearing did.

Again, how far does the original throw out bearing travel in the
original normally aspirated push type clutches?

If it matters I have a stock Subaru clutch in my Subaru powered
Vanagon application.

I have some issues.

Hence, I want to know how far the original bearing traveled.

OK?


Re: Throw out bearing travel

 

I have a converted van.

It is important to know what the original throw out bearing did.

Again, how far does the original throw out bearing travel in the original normally aspirated push type clutches?

If it matters I have a stock Subaru clutch in my Subaru powered Vanagon application.

I have some issues.

Hence, I want to know how far the original bearing traveled.

OK?


Re: Throw out bearing travel

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

and here I assumed it was a subaru-vanagon since that's what this list is.

if it's a stock subaru car we don't speak that here .
there are plenty of subaru car forums though.

if it's on this list ..it should be about subaru engines in VW vanagon
vans only.

On 5/15/2012 4:31 PM, Fuzzy Bear wrote:

NO.

How far does a stock Subaru clutch throw out bearing move in its
original application?

That is the question.

Not in a van. Not in a conversion. Not in a turbo. Just stock. The say
it was meant to be initially.

This will make sense in a later post.


Re: Throw out bearing travel

 

NO.

How far does a stock Subaru clutch throw out bearing move in its original application?

That is the question.

Not in a van. Not in a conversion. Not in a turbo. Just stock. The say it was meant to be initially.

This will make sense in a later post.


Re: Throw out bearing travel

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

what type of clutch do you have . ?
are you using a dedicated bell housing or an adapter system. ?

if it's an adapter system ..it uses a VW clutch pressure plate usually..
and the stock TOB travel is fine.

if it's an RJES bell housing ..
the subaru clutch I put together with one of those was just fine, TOB
travel wise.

scott

On 5/15/2012 11:55 AM, Fuzzy Bear wrote:

How far does a stock Subaru throw out bearing move?

Note this is very a very conversion related question and I have
searched high and low for the answer.

I know the travel is less than a half inch, but various clutches
disengage with different travels.

This is for the standard normally aspirated clutch.

I do not have a stock Subaru transmission to look at.

Help!


Re: significance of different cel codes w/green connectors

 

Hi Greg,
Normally the ECU will not report codes immediately with the Green Test Mode connectors connected - but if the ECU see serious engine performance issues it will report them immediately. In your case:

Code 35 CPC solenoid - always seems to report immediately - you need to check the solenoid valve to see if it has gone open circuit - common failure mechanism. Correct this one first and see what happens to the others.

Code 21 - coolant temperature - check to be sure it is plugged in.

Code 42 - Idle switch - check to be sure the TPS is set so the idle switch is closed when the throttle is closed.

The codes 51 and 33 usually do not come up until the engine has run at >2000 rpm for 45 seconds.

I hope this makes some sense,
Tom
Burlington ON

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "dmz" <dmzwesty@...> wrote:

1994 ej22 in an 85
Here's what I wondering about:

When I first start up, with the van only sitting there at idle, I immediately get 3 codes. 35, 42, 21.

But after driving for awhile, I get those plus 33 and 51.

This is only with the green connectors.

So is there a significance to the separation of codes?


Re: significance of different cel codes w/green connectors

 

From

35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit

33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models)

I'd say, at first brush, that you do not have the subsystems in the codes connected properly or even present at all!


significance of different cel codes w/green connectors

dmz
 

1994 ej22 in an 85
Here's what I wondering about:

When I first start up, with the van only sitting there at idle, I immediately get 3 codes. 35, 42, 21.

But after driving for awhile, I get those plus 33 and 51.

This is only with the green connectors.

So is there a significance to the separation of codes?


Throw out bearing travel

 

How far does a stock Subaru throw out bearing move?

Note this is very a very conversion related question and I have searched high and low for the answer.

I know the travel is less than a half inch, but various clutches disengage with different travels.

This is for the standard normally aspirated clutch.

I do not have a stock Subaru transmission to look at.

Help!


Re: Exhaust by Vanaru

 

I have had my Vanaru header for about a year. Fit fine. No issues. I am happy.

Did you post this same question on TheSamba?


Re: Weird Sound when starting.

 

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "jared.kratz" <jared.kratz@...> wrote:

Okay Iv'e posted here before and want to thank all of the collaborative efforts from everyone that makes this site work... I have been doing a conversion and I have started it, sorted out all my fluids. I just rebuilt the rear (trailing arms, shocks, bearings, CV boots joints etc.... SO I am just about ready to take for a test drive. Tomo I will take it off the jack stands.

COuple questions about starting: I have a new battery and since day one since I first fired it up the started sounds week, almost like its skipping. It engages then takes a bit to turn the 2.5 over and the engine fires up and I get a bad scrapping grinding sound like the starter is still engageing. I have a 1985 Westy A/T with a 2003 2.5. It also seems like the starter just gets it going.

Second: This weekend I was messing with lights etc... and had the lights on and off so the battery was a little run down. I started the engine again and it sound like it skips more with a lower battery. but it fires up fine and runs smooth. I charged it and fired it up again now that horrble sound keeps going like the starter is staying engaged. I looked at the torque converter where the grooves for the starter turn the engn and its not chewed up at all. I only let it run maybe 3-4 seconds with that horrible sound like the starter not dieengeaging?

Is there a correct starter or after market I can get to solve this problem... Thanks so much.
Thanks again for the help. Upon taking out the starter today the teeth were all chewed up on the end, I ordered a westy venture adapter and a Bosch SR0408X starter. thanks