Looks to me that some are determined to make this as complicated as possible.?

The most reasonable options are:

1. A flat belt glue-up kit from multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks.
2. A flat belt lace-up kit from multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks
3. A link-belt which costs about 35 bucks. The feedback on using this is insufficient to determine if it is a fitting option.
4. Everything else, that seems to be more complicated and laborious and is not certain if it saves anything. Automotive wide belts run about 50+ bucks.

Am I missing something? Or are we just masochists at heart?

Best Regards,

Andrei

mailto:calciu1@...
?
?

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Gary_K via groups.io <themachinest0119@...>
Sent: Friday, January 3, 2025 4:15 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes

?

No, at least, not on my heavy 10. The headstock has a cast cross support. On my 9, I do just remove the spindle.

On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...> wrote:

? My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?

On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via groups.io wrote:

I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?

On Dec 31, 2024, at 11:37, Mark via groups.io <mark21056@...> wrote:

?

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:

You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.

I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?

The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:

1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)

The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?

On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...> wrote:

? My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?

On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via groups.io wrote:

I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?

On Dec 31, 2024, at 11:37, Mark via groups.io <mark21056@...> wrote:

?

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:

You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.

I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?

The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:

1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)

The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?

?

My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?

I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?

On Dec 31, 2024, at 11:37, Mark via groups.io <mark21056@...> wrote:

?

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:

You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.

I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?

The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:

1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)

The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?

?

I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?

On Dec 31, 2024, at 11:37, Mark via groups.io <mark21056@...> wrote:

?

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:

You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.

I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?

The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:

1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)

The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?

On Dec 31, 2024, at 11:37, Mark via groups.io <mark21056@...> wrote:

?

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:

You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.

I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?

The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:

1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)

The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?

?

?

?

Thanks, Mark. I was going to make a tool like the Armstrong spring tool. Last night I went through your videos and noticed that was one of your early attempts. You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Mike Poore wrote:

I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.

Thanks Mike, the parting tool works very well. I've actually made five designs variation over the years. I think I finally perfected the design. As long as the feed rate is right (about .001" to .002" per revolution) and you give the blade a constant supply of oil it seems pretty much fool proof. Even the speed is very forgiving, as long as the SFPM is correct or slightly slower than spec for HSS. I just made 10 of them. I plan on selling them complete with the AXA Holder, Blade and a Needle Oiler. I sent one to Quinn Durkin (Blondiehacks) and she love it. She said it has become her go to parting tool. Can't beat that for a positive review. Not sure on a price yet. The AXA tool holder and blade add up to $35+ and the steel and bolts all add up quickly. It took me about 20 hours to make 10 although if I make more I'm sure that can be reduced. I want to keep the cost reasonable but also cover my time and expenses.

?

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Mike Poore wrote:

I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.

Thanks Mike, the parting tool works very well. I've actually made five designs variation over the years. I think I finally perfected the design. As long as the feed rate is right (about .001" to .002" per revolution) and you give the blade a constant supply of oil it seems pretty much fool proof. Even the speed is very forgiving, as long as the SFPM is correct or slightly slower than spec for HSS. I just made 10 of them. I plan on selling them complete with the AXA Holder, Blade and a Needle Oiler. I sent one to Quinn Durkin (Blondiehacks) and she love it. She said it has become her go to parting tool. Can't beat that for a positive review. Not sure on a price yet. The AXA tool holder and blade add up to $35+ and the steel and bolts all add up quickly. It took me about 20 hours to make 10 although if I make more I'm sure that can be reduced. I want to keep the cost reasonable but also cover my time and expenses.