Looks to me that some are determined to make this as complicated as possible.?
The most reasonable options are:
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A flat belt glue-up kit from multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks.
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A flat belt lace-up kit from multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks
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A link-belt which costs about 35 bucks. The feedback on using this is insufficient to determine if it is a fitting option.
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Everything else, that seems to be more complicated and laborious and is not certain if it saves anything. Automotive wide belts run about 50+ bucks.
Am I missing something? Or are we just masochists at heart?
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No, at least, not on my heavy 10. The headstock has a cast cross support. On my 9, I do just remove the spindle.
On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...> wrote:
? My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the carriage is in neutral. Those gears
are noisy. If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via groups.io wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather
with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking.
If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn
has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?
