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Anyone been able to replace the right hand undermount cone pulley bearing without cutting the drive belt? Don Verdiani, PA USA

Cleaning up the shop after 40 years of accumulating. I'm close enough to retirement-driven downsizing it's time to look at this...and I'd rather take it to the scrapyard than deal with eBay. All for a model 9/10K. I have an extra taper attachment cross slide, an extra handlever cross slide with tool posts and wedges, a 6-position lever bed turret, a couple lantern tool posts with rockers, an extra compound, an extra tailstock, and a turret tool post with rockers, are the first things that come to mind. If there is any interest, I can be reached at ka9egw@..., [and that email is a spam magnet so please put "SHOP CLEANUP" in the subject]. Many thanks. I'll be posting more over the next few weeks. Regards, -B

Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions. Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal? What diameter are the base and feet holes? I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right? I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient? I don't really like the ~ 30" narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor. I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome! TIA Ron

I was reading the thread about the Birmingham chuck and it got me to thinking about the limitation of a threaded chuck. Has anyone come up with a way to secure the chuck to enable running the lathe in reverse? Preferably, it would not involve modifying the spindle. Work small enough for a collet can of course be run in reverse, but I am thinking about work that must be chucked.

Hello everyone, and thanks for letting me join. I wish I had a SB but I don't, I was gifted a Birmingham YCL-1126BD lathe and I have to make do. I was hoping to get a self-centering 4-jaw chuck for it. Birmingham is no help. I've found a number of them, even on Amazon, but none of the photos or descriptions show the back of the chuck or indicate the connection type and frankly I'm lost. The 3-jaw on there now uses little L-shaped hooks or whatever you want to call them to hold it in place. I would sincerely appreciate any assistance you guys might be able to give me. Dave

I bought collets for a SB-10Heavy. However, they turned out to be SB-3 collets for a SB-9. That's why they are for sale. Trading for a SB-10-Heavy drawbar to fit SB-2 collets is also an option. In the meantime, I was able to buy SB-2 collets. I'm still looking for a drawbar for them. greetings, Ruud (The Netherlands)

Hello all. Have been following for some time. This is my first post. There is a 3-D printed thread dial indicator on Ebay. I have a SB-13. Will this fit my lathe? The add says it fits a 13, 14 1/2, 16 and 24". It looks like it is plastic. What do you experts think? Thank you.

I should also add that I parted 4140 on my SB9A without any drama using this tool. On 1/5/2025 5:29 PM, Mike Poore via groups.io wrote:

Mark, l was the one the wrote about making a tool and the version I was going to make is similar to your Armstrong adaptation, which you said had problems. Therefore, I did make a tool using your latest plans. (see pics below) Obviously, I can't follow directions. My goal was to make a parting tool without using a parting tool. One thing I did that might be useful is that I cut the blade groove .125" deep for the carbide blade shown in the pics. Thinner blades can be used with a shim under the retainer. I have 3 different thicknesses of blades so I wanted a way to use all of them. I am thinking about adding some marks to indicate the blade angle so that it does not need a gage to change angles. On 1/4/2025 12:45 PM, Mark via groups.io wrote: On Sat, Jan 4, 2025 at 09:12 AM, John Byghtn3 wrote: I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done. Thanks John! I'd love to see the finished tool.

Hello, Wondering if automotive flat belts (grooved serpentine type) can be put to use as a drive belt for my 10L. I just bought a Duralast #750K7 (7PK1905) and before I cut it and try to glue together, has anyone had prior success? Thanks...! Mike

This is a tangential topic at best. The question is does anyone know of a way to bond diamond grit to a steel plate? I am thinking about experimenting with general purpose epoxy. However they bond brake linings could work, but I do not know how. Regular epoxy seems like it would fail as the plate heated, but the brake lining adhesive should be more than adequate. Background: I have a 1950's era grinding machine that uses steel discs with bonded diamond grit on the flat side of the disc. It would be perfect for HSS or carbide sharpening given its adjustable angle work table. The problem is that the abrasive plates are not available any more. Self-adhering sanding discs are an option, but not preferable.

I recently acquired a 1913 southbend 13x8 gap bed lathe, cataloge number 134. I am looking for any printed material pertaining to it. Can anyone help?