Re: Automotive flat belts for lathes
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> If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?
Not on all lathes.? The headstock support on my light 10 (10k) is cast such that the belt has to go through two separate holes on the way to the under-mount drive.
You can see these holes in this picture of the bottom of that headstock support here:?
I believe the headstock casting has a similar shape to it, but I don't think I have a good picture of that -- I also think the undermount drive hanger would require cutting the belt.
My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced
by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it
bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when
the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are
willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt
without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via
wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the
round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one
would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended
up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the
ends together, wrapped around many times.? I think one could do a
similar thing with a flat belt.? Advantages would be only tiny
holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a
very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread
wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something
was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about
the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like
your recent version. No point redoing the research you
have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully,
you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well
but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The
problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements
are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per
revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle
with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM
for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the
leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you
shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with
my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot
of stick-out.?
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