That about covers it. I will say that a local company made my belt
with the wire hooks for $15 while I waited.
On 1/3/2025 4:44 PM, Andrei via
groups.io wrote:
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Looks to me that some are determined to make this as complicated
as possible.?
The most reasonable options are:
-
A flat belt glue-up kit from
multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks.
-
A flat belt lace-up kit from
multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks
-
A link-belt which costs about 35
bucks. The feedback on using this is insufficient to
determine if it is a fitting option.
-
Everything else, that seems to be
more complicated and laborious and is not certain if it
saves anything. Automotive wide belts run about 50+ bucks.
Am I missing something? Or are we just masochists at heart?
No, at least, not on my heavy 10. The headstock
has a cast cross support. On my 9, I do just remove the spindle.
On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike
Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...>
wrote:
? My preference is the wire hook splice as it
can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking
does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others.
Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the
carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are
willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber
auto belt without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al
MacDonald via groups.io wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall
but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an
old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would
drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I
ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle
and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times.
?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt.
?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger
area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible
joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t
quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore
wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but
something was not quite right. I would be
curious hearing more about the problem.
Regardless, you convinced me to make one like
your recent version. No point redoing the
research you have already done. Quinn has a
great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to
work well but it may have had to do with the tilt
of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt
(or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following
requirements are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002"
per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream
(use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the
calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects
the leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter
if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have
been the issue with my past design. It's
counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of
stick-out.?
