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I am looking for a Kenwood YF-107 or YF-107CN CW filter for the TS480 if anyone has one for, or know where you can still get them at. Please let me know the price shipped to Oklahoma. 73 John AF5CC

Hello All!! I need to change the wattage on TX Tune from 100 Watts to 50 Watts. How do I do this. I'm stuck! Thanks in advance for your help. AA6RK...

Anyone know where to adjust this ? I did not find it in the user or service manual or on line. I friend indicated it's done in two areas; the radio and the RT systems software. Would this be a function in the OEM software (instead of RT)? -- - Regards, Karl Shoemaker To contact me, please visit SRG's web site at http://www.srgclub.org for the current email address.

Does anyone have to steps for setting up the repeater set for DMR to access the Brandmiester network ? Just purchased it and learning how to set it up in different modes.

just ordered a 520. remembered my first kenwood was a 520. tough old hybrids. looking forward to getting it on the air. a little nostalgia and fun. joe n0uwf

the 5 County ham radio club will be at the cameron mo Chinese buffet at 11 am on Saturday December 14 thanks joe. n0uwf Joerose375@...

thanks for accepting my into the group. joe n0uwf

Good Morning. I have (2) 2.1khz ssb filters (455 and 8.33) . i would like to find the proper boards to wire them into. Everyone i see for sale has a filter on it, and they want rediculous money. anyone have leads on inexpensive filters on boards, or empty boards?? i can hardwire them, but trying this first. Thanks in advance for any help. 73, Art N3GCD

just bought another kenwood 520. my first was a 520 tough old hybrids lot of fun back then. still like the quality of the 520. looking forward to contacts again on a relic

I am a new member to this Group and am glad to find it! I own numerous other groups.io Groups so I am familiar with the format. I have two Kenwood TH-F6A HTs, one I bought just after the product was announced at the Dayton Hamvention (I was at that Kenwood meeting and joined in the standing ovation when the 220 MHz capability was announced). My original TH-F6A continues to work well. I got a second TH-F6A from a SK friend's estate. It had not been used in over a year and appeared dead. I could not get it to start despite my best efforts, including the system resets. Rather than just throw it away, I kept it, hoping I would one day have a better idea. Recently, a Yaesu HT with the same functional failure was restored over a club breakfast by a member who just took it apart at the restaurant table; he cleaned the keypad contacts and that was sufficient to restore that Yaesu to normal operation. I tried that same repair on my non-functional TH-F6A and that restored my HT to operation also! So, if you have some HT problem, either failing to start or some curious keypad issue, I suggest you open the TH-F6A and clean the keypad board contacts and the keypad rubber pads. I used a Q-Tip and anhydrous isopropyl alcohol. Opening is easy: remove the two slotted nuts around the SMA connector and encoder shafts, and the two small cross-point screws visible when the battery is removed. The unit separates into two parts easily and safely, exposing the keypad contacts. However, the POWER button on the rubber keypad is cracked, likely through frequent usage. I want to replace that rubber membrane keypad. I see that PacParts (https://www.pacparts.com) has a "Substitute" Kenwood-branded keypad available: https://www.pacparts.com/part.cfm?sku=880N96%2D6874%2D99 I wonder if any of you have had this keypad problem and have purchased this replacement from PacParts, and if you found it satisfactory. -- Best wishes, Larry McDavid W6FUB Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)

I love my TM-V71A, and wonder if anyone made an after-market mobile mic for it that had buttons on the top of the mic for up/down channel/scan? The * and # buttons on the front of the mic work fine, but I would like something that is more convenient for use while mobile and could be used without taking the mic off hook. Thanks and 73, -- Tad Danley, K3TD -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com

Greetings all- Well, this is esoteric... I recently got a TM-541A 1.2 ghz mobile rig. Unlike ALL the other versions of this radio, there is no way to calibrate the frequency. There is no master TCXO clock trimmer. The TC1 trimmer is just PLL voltage. Mine is 2khz off and sure would like to net it in. Any gurus out there? Or maybe a pointer to a Kenwood master? Thanks- Bob-AB5N

Hi all, Ive managed to get a TL 922 amp, lovely condition inside, but the outside case is a little on the tatty side lots of scratches and scrapes, I would like to repaint it does anyone know what the colours are please, if I can get them identified I can have the paint mixed and installed into rattle cans and respray the case's, Thanks John M0CDL.

I picked up two TS-530's, one TS-520, and one VFO-230 at a hamfest for a little over $100 for the bunch. The two 530's came with an AC power cord and receive well, but will need some work in the transmitting section. The 520 did not come with a power cord and was marked as for parts, but it appears to be intact and may be worth restoring, or may even work, since the person selling for the estate did not have the power cord to test it. I don't know anything about the VFO-230 yet but will get to that in time. The 520 may actually work, or be like the two 530's and partly work. both of those have great receivers and all RX functions seem to work well. As to the external VFO-230, does it mate up to the 520 and/or 530 to work split operations or can it be used as a separate signal generator? I noticed that a ready-made power cord for the 520 on ebay is going for north of $60. Is the Cinch-Jones connector close enough in size to mount a Molex type connector in its place? I don't care if it's original or not, though it would be nice to have the original connector in its place. Does anyone have one of these connectors in their junk box that they are willing to part with? If so, please contact me directly by replying to me instead of the group. If you get posts by email, you can use the reply to sender link to send a private message to me. Back to the size of the connector, is there another less expensive connector that will fit in the same place, and is it worth the trouble of unsoldering everything to create a new connection there? Thanks in advance!!! Donald KX8K

Hello everyone, Does anyone know of someone that might have the ability to repair an old Kenwood TH-235A ht. The rig has output but not enough to measure on a 5 watt meter into a dummy load. Changing between low and high power seems to make no difference at all. I can talk simplex to another radio out to a couple hundred feet or so as well as bring up the local repeater within a few hundred feet. I know I can replace it with a cheap hand held but this radio has been a work horse at field days and other occasions for years and never had a problem. Another reason for repair interest is I bought a new battery for it just before the problem developed. The luck of life. Thanks ahead for any help. Jeff kb5nmb

HF Transceiver, Microphones, Signal Generator, Meters, Cables, Misc Parts, Manuals, and more For Sale . Kenwood TS-120 S, HF Transceiver: The Kenwood TS-120S is designed for SSB and CW modes in the 80 through 10 meter ham bands plus WWV 15 MHz receive. All solid-state technology has 100 PEP output on SSB, 80W DC on CW . The TS-120S features a 100 Hz digital display with analog subdial. It is relatively small, and simple to operate. It requires 13.8 VDC at 18 Amps. 9.6 x 3.8 x 11.7 inches Features: 80-10 meters 25 kHz Calibrator NB RIT IF Shift RF Attenuator This one works 100% as it should. Full power out on all bands. Cosmetically it is in every good shape. Buy it with manual for $200. . Kenwood MC-35 Hand Microphone: The Kenwood MC-35 is a noise cancelling hand microphone that was used extensively on some of the older Kenwood gear, such as the TS-120, TS-130, and many others. It has a standard 4 pin connector on it, wired for Kenwood. This one works as it should. Cosmetically, it looks close to new. The coiled cord is in great shape. Non-smoking. Buy it with manual for $38 . Astatic D-104 Desk Microphone: The D-104 is a very common desk microphone for ham use. Sometimes it is referred to as the "lollipop microphone". It features extremely good audio properties. This particular D-104 has the UG-8 "grip to talk" stand with it. This one works fine, just as it should. It has a 4 pin connector on it, wired for Kenwood. Buy it with paper work for $100. , Lafayette TE-22 Audio Generator: The TE-22 is a sine/square wave audio generator. It dates back to the mid-1960s, and possibly was OEM'd for Lafayette by Trio KENWOOD. Circuit wise it is a Wein Bridge oscillator like the HP 200 series, but instead of a lightbulb, it uses a thermistor as the nonlinear feedback element. It covers from 20 Hz to 200 KHz in four bands, and produces up to 7 V output. This one looks like it just came out of box from the factory. No scratches or defects of any sort! Pristine! It produces a signal when displayed on my scope. The wave form is not perfect, but is quite acceptable. Buy this unit with manual for $50 . Triplett VOM and Clamp on Ammeter: - This is actually multiple units in a single leather case. The VOM is a Triplett Model 310. It measures both AC and DC volts up to 1200, with resistance to a couple megs, and current to 600 ma. - Inside the same leather case is a Triplett model 10 clamp on ammeter. Obviously, it only measures AC current, and has ranges 6 to 300 amps. In addition, there is a model 101 adapter that allows one to plug into a standard 110 V AC outlets, with a large hole in the center for the clamp on ammeter, so one can measure the current consumed. - In addition to the VOM, clamp on ammeter, and plug in adapter, it includes a set of probes in the nice leather case. Bottom line is that you get a lot of measurement capability. - Buy this entire set for $100. . Linear Amp Switching Cables for Kenwood Rigs: This cable goes from a Kenwood transceiver to a linear amplifier to switch the amp from transmit to receive. One end has a DIN connector, as is used with most Kenwood rigs. The other end has an RCA phono plug, as used by most linear amplifiers. Before using this cable, please check the switching capabilities of your transceiver, and the requirements of your amplifier. Cable for switching the T/R relay Only $15. Cable with ALC control, in addition to T/R switching. $20 . Original Manuals for Kenwood equipment: All manuals are in nice condition and are original operating manuals unless otherwise specified. R-300 Receiver $10 R-2000 Receiver $22 R-2000 Service Manual $18 SM-220 Station Monitor Service Manual in binder $25 TH-21 2 m HT $8 TH-22/42 HT, cover stained $6 TH-215/315/415 HT for 2 m, 220 MHz, 440 MHz $10 TH-225 2 m HT $12 TH-K2AT, KT-4AT $10 TL922A HF Amp W7FG reprint in binder $20 TM-221/421 2 m/440 MHz mobile $12 TM-241/441/541 mobile FM $12 TM-261/461 2m/440 MHz mobile $12 TM-621/721 Dual Bander $12 TM-732 Dual Bander $12 TM-V7A dual bander $10 TR-2400 2 m HT $12 TR-2500 2 m HT $12 Service manual for TR-2600 2 m HT

I'm looking for a TV502 to a TS520 control cable, or someone who can give me the proper designation of the cinch jones plugs so I can build one. Can anyone help? Rick WD4KQG

I purchased a used TS-480 SAT recently, and I noticed that the insulation on one of the antenna coax pigtails had been scraped away about 2 inches from the back of the radio, leaving the braid exposed and damaged. I decided I would cut off the damaged coax and reinstall the newly shortened pigtail into the strain relief that secured it to the back of the radio. For those who aren't familiar, the coax goes through a 1/4" hole in the middle of a 3/4" x 3/8" metal plate that is attached to the back of the radio with two screws. Inside the radio the coax continues through a metal tube about 1/2" long, and the tube is hex crimped around the coax to secure it. The coax continues about 1/2" past the end of the tube, where the braid is separated from the center conductor and each is soldered to the respective pad on the nearby circuit board. I unsoldered the coax cable from the circuit board and removed the coax and strain relief assembly. With minimal effort, I was able to pull the coax out of the strain relief. Where the braid splits off from the center conductor there is a small brass ferrule that goes over the center conductor and under the braid, and the tapered tip of it is pressed into the coax underneath the outer insulation, thereby stabilizing it. With the coax removed from the strain relief, I thought I could merely stretch the crimped tube back out, cut off the bad section of the coax, reinsert it into the tube, add the ferrule, and re-crimp. Unfortunately, the tube split at the crimps when I tried this. Here's what I did that was quick and easy to do, and looks professional, if I do say so myself! I cut off the remainder of the tube on the strain relief and enlarged the hole in the flat plate to 9/32". I cut a 1/2" length of 9/32" brass tubing, deburred both ends, and inserted into the hole in the plate so it was flush with the underside. I applied flux to the tube and the plate, and soldered the tube to the plate on the inside surface only, so the solder is facing the radio backplate when the strain relief is reinstalled. The clearance hole in the backplate of the radio is large enough to accommodate a reasonably sized solder bead on the strain relief. I pushed the coax through the rebuilt strain relief and then stripped back the outer insulation about 1/2". Next, I inserted the ferrule over the center conductor and under the braid, pushing the tapered tip so it was underneath the outer insulation. I pulled the coax back into the strain relief tube so that the end of the ferrule was flush with the end of the tube, then hex crimped it to secure it. After that, it was a simple matter to twist the braid and strip about 1/4" of the center conductor insulation, tin the ends, reinstall the strain relief, and solder the coax ends to the circuit board. It looks and works like new, and if I ever have to do it again, it will be a very simple matter to take everything apart, solder in a new brass tube, and make a whole new pigtail assembly. I apologize for the lack of photos, but I didn't realize until after I was done how potentially useful this tip might be for others. I hope my written explanation is clear enough to follow. If anyone has any questions, please reach out. 73, Stan N6BYU