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Hello. I am in need of a mechanical part for my SX-62B. The dial pointer travels on it and the whole unit moves side to side to allow for the dial pointer reset. Mine is pictured below and as you can see the pulley on the left is missing. I am looking to buy the complete unit. I will buy a junker if need be to avoid turning my current SX-62B into one. Thanks for reading, Markus.

I generously received a 117 v Dow relay to connect my HT-44 and SX-117. I’m now wondering if the relay contacts in the HT-44 (pins 2-3) control outlet connector are up to switching the 117 V to the Dow relay. Or should I look further for a 12 V Dow? Figure5 in the HT-44 manual shows the use of a 117 V relay. Any concerns or am I overly concerned? Thanks. Skip Magnuson W7WGM

Hello all, I am rebuilding a Hallicrafters SX-122. Two of the three ballast resisters are broken. Where do I find replacemets?

I have two of these. Receiver #1: in poor condition, some missing electrical components and connectors. Enclosure is poor, with a meter hole cut into the front panel, additional non-original front panel holes. All controls are present and while a few are stiff, none are seized. Both main and bandspread dials function. Non-original hardware. Someone has worked on this one before and left a bit of a mess. This is a parts unit. Receiver #2: in better condition than #1, but still not great. Appears to be mostly complete (no guarantee on completeness), with some obvious work having been done previously (a replaced transformer, some replaced electrolytic can caps, an added Jones connector on rear, maybe more). Enclosure is complete with no extra holes in front panel. Non-original enclosure hardware. All controls are present and while a few are stiff, none are seized. Both main and bandspread dials function. This is a parts unit or, while it would take some work, is a possible restoration candidate. If it isn’t clear from the above, neither receiver is operational. No testing has been done on either receiver or on any of the components. No tubes are included with either receiver. I acquired these as part of a collection of other things I was interested in, and thought I might get to them someday. I will not get to them anytime soon, and I need to shrink the hoard, so off they go to someone who might, maybe, be able to make most of a good one from the two, otherwise both should useful as parts sources to restore other S/SX-15’s. Receiver #1 asking $30. Receiver #2 asking $55. Take both for $75. I also have a pretty good spare Sky Challenger silver dial; someone had lightly marked it on the back with "SX-18?", but it appears to be the same dial with same markings as on the S-/SX-15 receivers. Finally, I have a spare one of the small Hallicrafters nameplates (with the 4 little screws). Pardon the photo quality, the dial is actually nicer than it appears due to the crappy lighting I have. Offers considered on these, or we can negotiate inclusion with the receivers. Cash only, payment upon pickup at my location in York, PA, or at delivery at a local (to me) meet-up, or at delivery at an area hamfest if we are planning to attend anyway (we usually attend many hamfests within an hour or so of York, PA, and others like Berryville, and we're going to the Xenia OH "Dayton" hamfest this year). I will not ship the receivers. I will consider shipping the spare dial and nameplate if they are purchased separately, shipping cost to be paid by buyer. Inquire for more information, additional photos.

I need a meter for a hallicrafters ht46 transmitter. It was damaged in the process of being shipped. Please, can any one help?? message here or direct to rholstiaticlouddotcom replace at with @ and dot with . (period) Robert KH2BR

Looking for a Hallicrafters SX-146; working or not, lone or buy. Walt Cates, WD0GOF https://wd0gof.com/Hallicrafters A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness. https://wd0gof.com/bible-study/commentaries/

No, I read it correctly. You are proposing a distinction without a difference. The Edison system was developed to reduce the number of conductors and the cost in a power distribution system, a benefit applied equally well to both DC and AC systems. Might as well debunk another myth that AC is more efficient then DC in power distribution. The main losses in both systems is due to wire resistance but AC distribution also has reactive and skin effect losses that DC distribution does not have. AC power distribution is perhaps more convenient but it is less efficient. See: https://www.cencepower.com/blog-posts/line-losses-power-transmission-3-types Regards from a snowy Arkansas, Jim Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence. Murphy On Friday, January 10, 2025 at 11:53:47 AM CST, Donald J via groups.io <djeffarndt@...> wrote: You did not read that right It is similar but not the Edison system - the one we use is SIMILAR to the Edison split DC system! A split-phase or single-phase three-wire system is a type of single-phase electric power distribution. It is the alternating current (AC) equivalent of the original Edison Machine Works three-wire direct-current system. Its primary advantage is that, for a given capacity of a distribution system, it saves conductor material over a single-ended single-phase system.[1]

I have just been approved as a member of this list and have been busy reading many of the posts to familiarize myself with it. I am not a licensed amateur radio operator but have been a SWL since high school in the Sixties. I "discovered" shortwave when my father let me fiddle with his 1936 RCA Victor 2-band consumer radio which he had purchased new. I found it in my parents' attic ca. 1990 and restored it. I own two Hallicrafters receivers--an almost-functioning S20R which I've owned for a couple of years, and an SX-28 (not an "A" model) which I've owned and used for over 30 years and which failed a couple of months ago. I intend to get both operating before long and will probably have a few questions about them for this list along the way. Looking forward to following many of the topics discussed here. Tom

The following photos have been uploaded to the Hallicrafters Amateur Radios and Equipment - (ALBUM) photo album of the [email protected] group. SX-23 by W1NJC.jpg By: Bill (Group Owner) <k2wh@...>

My house was built in 1955 and has several outlets that are unpolarized outlets. If I replace an outlet with a 2-prong polarized outlet (neutral opening larger than the hot opening) how do tell which wire is hot? Thanks. Skip Magnuson

Some time ago there was a topic about a frequency shift when switching from standby to transmit and a problem with the calibrate switching function for CW operation in the HT-46. Today I ran across a service bulletin addressing this issue. Guess where? On my website. I knew I had it somewhere, but the old gray cells sometimes don't function well. I guess I need a full re-alignment. Just in case the issue was not resolved, here is the bulletin. Walt Cates, WD0GOF https://wd0gof.com/Hallicrafters A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness. https://wd0gof.com/bible-study/commentaries/

Testing the waters for a SX-28 cabinet intact and in good condition. The SX-28A I'm finishing up needs a nice cabinet to go with it. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Tom W3TA

I am looking for an SX146/HT46 station. I would prefer a nonfunctioning but complete and unmodified set. I intend to write a repair manual for each.

Hi Folks, Happy New Year, Replacing a garbage 18 gauge AC cord that someone installed in the power supply. I see the guy wired the neutral side to the fuse. I always thought the hot side went to the fuse, just like in the breaker panel. In a 110 VAC line, the "hot" wire should always be connected to the fuse in a device, not the neutral wire; meaning the fuse should be placed on the side of the line carrying the live current. Explanation: Safety: Placing the fuse on the hot wire ensures that when a fault occurs and the fuse blows, the appliance is completely de-energized, preventing potential shock hazards if someone touches the device while it's faulty. Thoughts Welcome, dave wa3gin

Hey guys, was just about to replace the power supply filter in my S-38C. opened it up and found a blown up bumblee capacitor. The cap in question is C-27 a .02uF @600v which goes from one side of the line to the common ground ( NOT chassis ground). My question is, can this be replaced with a .047 uF "safety" capacitor, or is the value of .02uF critical? Please let me know as I do want to keep the old beast running. Thank you. Howard

So is paying more gunna protect me any more? Thomas, no. But I, for one, don't mind throwing a few extra bucks at a purchase from a US-based brick & mortar seller. Sure was nice to drive 10 minutes to Radio Shack for that switch, transistor, or relay I needed for my project. YMMV 73, Jeff W8KZW Boatanchors since 1965

Looking to sell my SX-117-HT-44 set and my PS-150-120. Bought this set along with an SR-150 from a silent key ham friend, but really don’t have the room for all of these. Comes with manuals and the connection cables for running both units together. The power supply has a strong hum so i would think it needs recapped. The receiver is fantastic! Haven’t used the HT-44 yet. I ordered the injection cables but never did set it all up. Asking $400 for all of it. Local pickup only please near St Louis MO. Can send plenty more pictures.

From the TinySA official website. Where to buy. I guess the key is who made it. It seems that Zeenko is the authentic manufacturer. Safe places to buy an original tinySA Zeenko store on Alibaba.com. Other sellers on Alibaba may sell bad clones. For other payment methods, such as Paypal, hit the "chat now" button and Maggie from the Zeenko store will help you. At the right top of the browser window there should be "my messages" where you will have a better overview of your messages Zeenko store on AliExpress. This is the factory store, guaranteed to deliver genuine tinySA. Other sellers on aliexpress may sell bad clones. To be sure you get a good product only buy from Zeenko store on AliExpress. R&L Electronics in the USA. When the tinySA is listed as "out of stock" R&L can still take you order and only charge your credit card when the product is available again (which should be in a few weeks). Eleshop in Europe Switch Science in Japan Taobao in China 1688 in China Mirfield Electronics in the UK. astroradio in SPAIN Neven in Central and Eastern Europe Aursinc on Amazon SeeSii store on Amazon Walt Cates, WD0GOF https://wd0gof.com/Hallicrafters A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness. https://wd0gof.com/bible-study/commentaries/

I apologize for coming back here and begging for help with yet another thorny HT-46 problem, but I am at wits end. The VFO drift problem is solved and now I am addressing the chirpy CW note. I listened to the VFO with a general coverage receiver and hear little or no frequency change at key down, but I don’t know where else the chirp could be coming from. I’m testing on 80M so the heterodyne oscillator is out of play. I have listened to the carrier oscillator and it does not vary. Perhaps most telling is that when I transmit using the SX-146 receiver VFO in slave mode, there is no chirp. I thought VFO screen voltage might be the problem but I changed the OA2 with a NOS tube and that didn’t help. I even built up a solid state screen voltage regulator and installed it in place of the screen resistor. Screen voltage is now rock solid but there was little or no improvement in the chirp. To demonstrate the problem I attached an audio clip from a WEB SDR where I transmitted using the receiver VFO and then using the transmitter VFO. I don’t know if 开云体育 allows .wav attachments but it seemed to upload OK. Any suggestions are welcome. 73 – Jerry – W0PWE

Hi all, I know this is a generic question and there's many variables but I thought I'd try. What are some of you guy's tricks to free up stuck ferrite coils? I may have a stuck coil but I'm not sure. It's not in a Hallicrafters but I do know it's kinda a common thing. BTW, it's not from wax. Thanks, 73, and Happy New Year! Bob W4JFA