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Message Delays for Members
Please Read: For new members and existing members who lurk in the background and decide to post for the first time, those postings will not appear immediately and that is by design. Posting delays apply only to new members and those who have never posted before. They go to the moderator(s) for approval, before appearing on the site. This is to discourage bogus or inappropriate messages and that is why this site is clean of any spam and attempts by non-members to post material not related to this sites purpose. After one attempt at posting by a new or existing member, and approved by the moderator(s), that delay or approval process no longer applies and postings will appear right away. I hope this explains the delay of some postings and besides, even the moderators get time off every now and then so please be patient. K2WH Bill's QRZ Biography
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Need help with HT-40 MK 1 troubleshooting
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Hi all, New member here and recently retired, have been a ham since 1967 and started to fix/refurb old ham radio equipment in my leisure time now. So far successful with some old receivers..Knight Kit Star Roamer, Heathkit 303 and most recently a Hammarlund HQ-100A. So now I decided to try a transmitter to go along with the HQ-100A and picked up a beautiful Hallicrafters HT-40 Mark 1 in great physical condition but known problem.....only can get 2 watts out. I thought this would be a great project but now I'm not so sure. I think I'm reaching the point where I could use some help. I've attached the schematic I've been working from that closely matches my rig. When I received it I brought it up slowly on a variac and sure enough.,.Only 2 watts out. I figured I'd do the basics since it appears all original...I replaced all electrolytics and any HV paper caps, also replaced any resistors or caps that were more than 10% off, (except all disc ceramics) and cleaned all switch contacts. Fired it up again...only 2 watts out. Long story short... I replaced each tube individually and then tried all new tubes..... still 2 watts out. The biggest issues are. 1) cannot get any grid drive in tune position 2) I have only -5 vdc to +1.0 vdc on the Grid of the final V2 depending on position of Drive cap instead of -50vdc according to schematic. 3) Again, the Final V2 Pin 4 and 8 should have 130vdc in CW and 30vdc in AM. I have 26vdc in CW and 12 vdc in AM?? 4) Tube V1 Pin 8 should have 210vdc but I'm getting 350vdc and I've replaced R3, R6 and R7. I've resoldered almost all connections, wiggled each tube socket terminal during transmit...nothing changes. The only thing I found different was L2 is a 5uh choke instead of 100uh, don't know if this was a modification or mistake. I put a 100 uh in its place....still 2 watts out. I'm really stuck at this point and tested most components except the .001 and .005 ceramic disc caps, any of those I did pull and tested were good. I'm hoping someone could lead me in the proper direction. Thanks, Larry WA2DGD
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New to Group
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joined the group and want to say hello Dan
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HT-37 CW Break-In Modification
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Hi, I recently did the modification for break-in keying as shown in the Hallicrafters Information Bulletin. I used a separate 10M pot and mounted it in the 3/8” empty hole in the back of the chassis. I installed the 4.7M fixed resistor in series and I did remove the .005mf cap from pin #8 of SO8. The break-in function works as advertised - counterclockwise for shorter delays. However, I do have one issue in that the break-in function is always on. I can not return to normal manual CW operation by turning the pot maximum clockwise as stated. My 10M pot actually measured 8.6M so I tried going up to a 6.8M fixed resistor and that didn’t fix the issue. I also tried a 10M fixed resistor and still had the same issue. I also tried substituting the V14A VOX diode 6AL5 with 3 other spares that I had here and still had the issue. The copy of the bulletin that I have here has a sketch that shows someone using a fixed 22M resistor in place of the normal components resulting in a 2 second delay. I find that interesting in that 22M resistance is certainly beyond the factory’s full clockwise “return to normal manual CW operation” resistance. Has anyone here successfully performed this modification and had if perform as described in the bulletin? Maybe I’m missing something, so I thought I’d ask here. Regards, Alan, W9CG
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Hallicrafters parts on eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146473408194?_skw=hallicrafters&itmmeta=01JQ8JB30925MVVX5SYTK2T5NM&hash=item221a7ed6c2:g:gl8AAOSwuHVn4pNT&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cB%2Bx7DNiyx9Ej9vvogalpXAK2NRq6MuawXzvNrD9hdDPei7FSBOduWLcUMulnhOhAfcyM%2FlyKp00fCADVmqVO7bHcyhZqj1qm9OZxVwaTYBwO%2BwFubF155Iw59Y4Z%2Fu%2F4Bukz12KgVGyC0dYr%2FqcECP0Khf9uNLaZhcLYkW0Xa%2FRtvnfZbgf5NNTKkEVBQ8Ahx2v8Vnb%2Bsw9wL11xdAWprwZTvFoLLZVC2%2ByqdUXQhRJtn2W%2Bu3TojVYw%2BpOo6%2Bs0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6iwrJK6ZQ Having a clearout. 73 Max M0GHQ _._,_._,
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Bobby Hallicrafters W6OZI's Hamshack Tour- 2018 Update - YouTube
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Forwarded from another group, enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RDRrty9WPQ Jim Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence. Murphy
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SX-122 Calibration Questions
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Recently purchased an SX-122 in great condition. Less cosmetic wear than you'd expect from an early '60s radio. No mods or changes underneath and very clean there as well. A few tubes had been changed but several still had the Hallicrafters markings. Five of the tubes tested below acceptable level on my calibrated Hickok 539, so replaced them with NOS tubes that tested to spec. The set performed well on my very short length wire that starts on the workbench in the basement and makes it's way up to the roof on the deck. With that done, I replaced the two discrete electrolytics, which showed increases in both capacitance and leakage. and ordered a replacement can cap. Although the set is playing without any power supply hum, I change all 50+ year old electrolytics on general principles. I located the five paper caps and found them to be high quality, not waxies, and looking as if they just came out of the box. All five tested on my LCR meter to their nominal capacitance and the leakage was very small and virtually the same as the ones I would have replaced them with. So, left them in. While waiting for the can cap, I decided to give it a preliminary alignment to see how far out it might be. Tuning up the 50Khz made a big difference. Had an issue getting an output on the 1,650Hhz IF. Triple checked my setup, non-inductive 4 ohm dummy load on the audio output with the VTVM measuring across that, and still not seeing what I expected on the VTVM. Even weirder with the speaker connected. But, as I said, the set is working the second IF must be too. Put that on the back burner waiting on some expert guidance and went ahead to the RF alignment. Starting with 30 & 14Mhz. Pretty straightforward and was doing fine. Got significant improvements at 30Mhz and was feeling good until I got to 14Mhz. L12, L8, and L4. Well L12 was no problem as it's threaded section comes an inch or two out of the top of the coil and uses a straight blade screwdriver adjustment (I use on ceramic screwdrivers wherever possible). Man, that thing twitchy but finally conquered it and got significant improvement. However things ground to a screeching halt with I hit L8, and L4. The slugs are recessed and the opening on top has a lot of wax on it. Doesn't block the hole, but it's darn hard to see down in there and figure out what shape tool is required. I'm being very cautious about not damaging a slug. One that I can see reasonably well apprears to have a wide, shallow, common screwdriver slot. Wasn't able to get anything in that felt like it seated and no changes in output. So, to wrap up, I'd appreciate any thoughts on the 1,650 Khz alignment. And also some guidance on what's needed to turn the slugs on all the recessed slugs. Thanks, John - K8NN
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Hi Don, After I do the AM alignment part of the 2 high bands 88-108 and 27-55, I switch to FM, and there is no sound, because the RF gain control is all the way up, as I lower the RF gain it begins to howl out of the speaker, then it finally drops into the normal audio hush. My o-scope is in storage, but I am using a frequency counter, and an RCA WR-50b signal generator. The generator output attenuator seems fine, and cuts off the output on it's lowest setting. The RF control works the same way with or without the generator running, and sounds terrible on a FM station, overdriven sounding, even with the RF control at its "best sounding position" between 2-3.using the settings as in the alignment setup. On AM the high bands work, but not well on FM stations. The RF gain control can be advanced to 10 on the 2 top bands in the AM position, and pick up AM signals ok. When I received the receiver all bands worked, but poorly, I don't remember if FM was proper before the recap, but it barely worked. The general condition of the receiver is great, with all of the original tubes, which test as new. CW does work, but is turned off. The callibrator works, but is also turned off. Thanks, Scott From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of don Root <drootofallevil@...> Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2025 10:21 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] SX-62 alignment instructions Scott, I’m not too smart and also can’t read between the lines and words. What is oscillating?, and at what frequency? I guess you see it on a scope unless it is from the BFO and out the speaker.?? You mentioned nothing about the history and if you have ever had it receiving or not on any band. ? Will it work on AM/CW on all bands ? and it is just the FM detector? On FM what happens with the signal generator off and an antenna ..nothing?, stations? Oscillations most of the time? Is your RG gain pot in good shape, or is it noisy, erratic? I have a sx-62 of some version in sick bay so I am extra curious but it will take a while to understand things. From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Scott Petersen via groups.io Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2025 9:26 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] SX-62 alignment instructions I did both alignments, and all seemed well until I switched in FM, and the gain was too high, and it wouldn't receive until I turned the RF control to 2-3, and only "works" in a small range, either too high, and oscillates and blanks, or too low a gain to hear anything. ._,_ -- don va3drl
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SR-160 Vernier Dial Lubricaion
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Hi All, I am restoring an SR-160 that has been dormant for some time. The vernier dial does rotate through it's full rotation but does so sluggishly, getting stuck periodically. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding lubrication of the vernier dial mechanism (type of lubricant, places to lubricate, etc)? -- 73s VE3MXG Matt Gervais
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SX-100MK2A
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My sx-100mk2a has several black cat caps, woud it be ok to leave these in or replace them also. thanks in advance Bob w8exv
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Hi Guys, In the instructions it says to connect a .1mfd capacitor to pin 1 of the 7F8, do I leave the tube in circuit, or put the lead directly in the socket? Should I remove the chassis side cover, or will it make a difference to the alignment, same with the RF shield under the IF's? Thanks, Scott
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Newish member of this group, first time posting. I have an S-20R in need of repair. I am not a trained technician and am not particularly good at interpreting symptoms. However, I do have the chassis working just as it should from the grid of the first i.f. through the audio output. But the mixer stage is faulty—the LO is not oscillating. I have a voltage chart for an S-20R that was made up by a member of the Antique Radio Forum. The tube pin voltage readings on my chassis agree almost entirely with his chart, except for the 6K8 mixer. I’m posting the readings in the chart below. FYI—I took these readings with the chassis powered via a bucking transformer so that it runs on 117 vac. On the first line are his readings and on the second line, in red, are my own. FWIW, my voltage readings were made with a DMM, not a VTVM. If it helps, here's the mixer section: If you’re familiar with these sets, you might recall that the underside of the 6K8 socket is a bit difficult to access because the oscillator coil assembly partially covers it. Maybe the symptoms I’m posting will point to a solution that would mean I won’t face the daunting task of partially disconnecting and lifting the whole coil assembly. :-) Any thoughts? Thank you, Tom
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Interesting observation concerning crystals...
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My sickness concerning old vintage radios had morphed into revisiting the CB radios I messed with when I was a young 'un. I have noticed that several have had one or more crystals out, which in a synthesized radio one crystal is likely to take out 4 or more channels. During my beating on these old relics I decided to put a DDS signal generator across the crystal, dial in it's frequency, and verify the "lost" channels were now there and usable. All worked as I expected except when I unhooked the signal generator the channel was still functional! Sometimes it would stop working when I switched back and forth to a channel not on the crystal, sometimes not. The latest I tried was a Realistic TRC-47 which is a 23 ch SSB rig and it had one crystal "dead." I hooked up the SG and brought the group of channels back to life and unhooked the SG. All channels were still alive and remained that way for the rest of the day! I'll see tomorrow if they still work when I turn it on. Can someone explain this behavior? It's almost like "goosing" the tired crystal "repaired" it, or something. After I get finished playing with these old CBs I'm going to pull a Heathkit receiver off the shelf that has a couple bad crystals and see if it will wake them up. 73, -- Justin B. KI5GKD
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First off, I need to apologize to the guys here that responded to my SR-500 Tornado and SR-160 WTB post and didn’t hear back from me. I was on the road. Next, while on the road, I stopped by Walt Cates' QTH in Kansas City where I had the pleasure of meeting him and buying his SR-500 Tornado and PS-500AC. It’s in my shack and on the air. My first contact was with W1AW believe it or not. For several years Walt has been looking for an SR-160 panel to replace this SR-500 panel. The Tornado panel is the same as the 160 with the exception of the metal Tornado label below the escutcheon. The metal label is removable. Walt wasn’t able to find one in all those years, but I thought I would continue the search, so I know it’s a long shot. I just can’t leave a radio alone but prefer to spiff up and putter with them. I think this would be a fun spiff up project if a panel can be located. If not, fine, I am delighted with the radio never-the-less! 73, Scott WA9WFA
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I bought my first piece of radio equipment in 1957 at age 14, an R-26/ARC-5 command set receiver. I still have it but haven't used it for years. I'm pondering working up a power supply for it to get it back on the air, probably paired with my Multi-Elmac AF-67 transmitter, which is usually paired with my S-40B. In looking over the schematic of the R-26 and thinking about the recent discussions of the circuitry of the S-20R and S-40B, I note a lot of similarity between the command set receiver and the Hallicrafters. The command set uses 12 volt tubes while the two Halli receivers use 6 volt tubes, some of them equivalent except for the filament voltage. The R-26 includes no band switching and covers 3-6 MHz which are the main differences between it and the two Hallicrafters receivers. The IF frequency in the R-26 is also much higher, at 1415 kHz, not a practical frequency for the bandswitched Hallis with coverage down to the low end of the BC band. The most interesting (to me) similarity is the use of "gimmick" capacitors in all three receivers to couple the BFO signal to the transmission path: S-20R C15 twisted leads to form small capacity S-40B C38 2 mmf. "Gimmick" (in schematic) twisted wire assembly (in parts list) R-26 C33 <2 mmf. wiring capacitance The S-20R also uses a "gimmick" to couple the high frequency oscillator signal in the mixer stage (C38). I haven't looked in detail at other makes of receivers from the '30 and '40s, but I wonder whether the S-20R and the R-26 were just reflecting similarities due to good engineering practice of that era, or did someone from Hallicrafters influence the design? 73, Maynard W6PAP
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Fw: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] Off-The-Wall Question
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? Justin: I didn't recognize your name in my initial response. I indicated I just finished a manual for a HE-43C. When I was putting the mailing label on the envelope, I realized it was for you. So it's on the way. Ah; the perils of aging. Pete, wa2cwa ----- Forwarded Message ----- Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2025 12:49:44 -0500 Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] Off-The-Wall Question Lafayette HE-43C is not rare. It is identical to the HE-20C (which we sold 1000's of these sets - HE-20, 20A, 20B, 20C(relay and electronic switching versions), 43C) except the 43C works on 110V AC and 6 volts DC. The 20C works on 110V AC and 12 volts DC. Other then that, they are identical. I just finished a HE-43C manual for a customer. Both the HE-20C and 43C were made by United Scientific Laboratories (USL) in Long Island City, NY. A tunable receive and a crystal controlled transmitter was quite common with a number of manufacturers in the early 60's. A Spot switch obviously was common on these transceivers. Pete, wa2cwa On Sat, 08 Mar 2025 08:46:48 -0800 "Justin Bowser - KI5GKD" <justin.bowser@...> writes: Pete - I'll give that a try and let you know. I also got another rare/unusual bird coming, an HE-43C. I've never seen a CB where you transmit with crystal and receive by VFO. What I plan doing is to put in a circuit that replaces the crystals with an Arduino controlled 5351 module. 73, Justin B. KI5GKD _._,_._,
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Classic Exchange - let's get these old radios on the air!
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Do we fix up these old Hallis just to put 'em on the shelf and admire them because they're beautiful and they still work? No! We put 'em back on the air, too! Classic Exchange is upon us once again. This is the fun, twice-a-year operating event encouraging hams of all ages to put old radios on the air. The older (the radio) the better! So, get out the dim bulb tester now and reform your HV capacitors. Phone: Sunday Oct 13 1300Z to Oct 14 0700Z and Tuesday Oct 15 1300Z to Oct 16 0700Z CW: Sunday Oct 20 1300Z to Oct 21 0700Z and Tuesday Oct 22 1300Z to Oct 23 0700Z For those of us on the west coast of North America, that translates to Phone: Sunday Oct 13 and Tuesday Oct 15, 6am to midnight PDT CW: Sunday Oct 20 and Tuesday Oct 22, 6am to midnight PDT Details at https://www.classicexchange.org/ and https://www.classicexchange.org/announcments/CX_Rules.pdf Cheers, Halden VE7UTS
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For Sale - Hallicrafters R-274/FRR with speaker
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Due to health I have to downsize and am selling this Hallicrafters R-274/FRR and the matching speaker. I am asking $550 for the pair. Radio is now working well after I fixed some simple issues. Speaker is at the top of the stack. This unit is heavy, so shipping is not something I want to do. Pickup within two hours of Albuquerque New Mexico will work. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thanks Dwight
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Off-The-Wall Question
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Hi, Y'all! Been a while since I bugged the collective so now I have a question. It's not Hallicrafters related but there is such a wealth of knowledge around here I figure somebody might be able to help. I picked up an old Lafayette HB-600 CB which is ailing. I turn it on and get a slight hiss from the speaker and when I key the mic I show about a 5 watt carrier but no modulation. That's just a little background info so here is where things might get interesting. I decided to go through the alignment procedures and have injected 455 KHz at the proper point and heard exactly zero tone so I started working forward and after I got past a mechanical 455 KHz filter and an IF can I got a good solid tone and could peak the next two IF cans. I have a stock of mini 455 IF transformers and I have ordered a ceramic 455 KHz filter from an AliExpress seller. should the ceramic filter work as a drop in or might I need to do some modifications? I know some may look at messing with an old CB as tantamount to blasphemy but CBs and SWL is what got me into Ham Radio when I was a wee shaver. 73, -- Justin B. KI5GKD
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Looking for SR-500 Tornado, Maybe SR-160
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Hi, I’m looking to buy a Hallicrafters SR-500 Tornado transceiver and PS-500 in good physical and preferably working condition. If I can’t find an SR-500, I would consider buying an SR-160/PS-150. In 1970 a friend borrowed me an SR-160 when I first got my General, and I had a wonderful time working 75, 40, 20 meter SSB with it until I left for military duty after high school graduation. Here I am some 54 years later looking for some of that wonderful nostalgia of the SR-160/SR-500. Thanks. 73, Scott WA9WFA
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