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Hi Daun....long time no chat. Yup understand 100% but was hoping that the ENA had a function to do that for me. There are some "VNA's" that will do that for you. I guess this one will not

Gedas, what you are seeing is "phase wrap".? The detectors in the VNA's can't resolve more than 360 degrees... 370 degrees looks the same as 10 degrees! The only way you can do it is to count how

Can someone point me to some reading material to help me understand how to measure phase on my ENA? I have the operators manual but it is not at all helpful. In short I chose a simple ~19" length

Hi Staffan Yes, you need to meter to be in addressable mode (or as you say, "normal"). If you use the interactive IO, you would use the "Send and Read".. Type the command to fetch the reading in the

Needed to repair a 606B. My preferred repair solution is to replace the faulty A10 attenuator module with a serviceable module. The existing module has three coax cables hard-wired internally to it -

Hi Tobias!? Great experiment. Now add C2 & C3, c6,c7,c5 & c8.? These caps are part of the AC circuit and are used for balance in the autozero (C2 & C3). HP did not put in parts they did not need! I

The worrying thing is the Chinese counterfeiters will probably do just that. eBay seller yixunhk springs to mind - someone called them the HP rebirthing centre. I can see them "rebirthing" power

Hi Tobias, I looked at the OP again, and realized that you already knew about the "mount" resistor - I didn't notice that the first time. I grabbed that 8484A manual pdf that Orin linked - thanks

Hello, Just got hold of an old HP436A power meter and would like to do some automated measurements. Controlling the instrument is simple using the 82357B USB-GPIB module (I can set range etc), but

Hi Robert, yes, I have an extra diode. While the RF has negative polarity, the 3.3nF capacitor gets charged through the bottom diode. As soon as the RF has positive polarity, the top diode conducts,

Hi , it seems to me that q1 and q2 (FET) form an electronic key. then the capacitors must be there for the switch to work properly without switching aberrations. Already C7 and C8, possibly keep the

You seem to have an extra diode, no terminator and reversed polarity. The terminator is probably the issue. The 11863A calibrator manuals may give some clues

Orin beat me to it but BAMA also have a copy (with some the change sheets) at: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/hp/8484a/ I bought a box of a dozen dead 84xx sensors a while back for about 60 USD,

8484A diode sensor schematic is here... http://www.dudleylab.com/08484-90019-PowerSensor.pdf wrote:

Robert, do you own a schematic of the diode sensors? The schematic for the thermocouple sensors was hard enough to obtain. In the current service manuals, there are of course no schematics at all, and

Interesting project. The diagram you show is for the Thermocouple "A" suffix sensor. While the principle and basic circuit is the same for diode and thermocouple, the A2 PCB is different so there must

I have added a new picture, showing the low frequency end performance: /g/HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment/photo/78668/1?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0 The upper trace A is the TG output near 0

@Peter thanks. Yes, exactly, the meters themselves are really cheap. I currently don't have access to some blown 8481A or similar sensors, so I cannibalized a sensor cable :-( because the connectors

Very cool, Tobias. You may want to study up on the interface between the 436 and sensor heads. There's typically a particular resistor in each head type for identification by the 436 - it then

This is an interesting project.? As you say the meters themselves are dirt cheap.? I have seen blown sensors sold cheap as well and maybe it's possible to build your circuit into one of those which