开云体育

TERMS OF USE -- How the 7x12 Group Operates The 7x12 Minilathe forum was founded as a way for machinists, both expert and novice, to help each other learn about our machines and to inspire each other to try new things. Here you can ask machining questions and expect to get knowledgeable answers. You can ask for help in finding just the right technique or design for a particular project. The files and archives can be searched for helpful hints and ideas to improve your knowledge and the quality of your work. In return we ask that you confine your discussions to machining related topics, that you treat each other as you would want to be treated, that you write your messages with a sense of camaraderie, and that you honor the rights of those who willingly give of their time by sharing their knowledge and ideas with you. Over time a group personality emerges, shaped by the people and personalities who comprise the group. We would like this group to be friendly and welcoming, a place where machinists of all skill levels come to teach and to learn and we ask your cooperation in meeting these goals. To help achieve those goals, the following rules govern operation of this group: * On-Topic posts only. Posts are not normally moderated, except those from relatively new members. But posts which are clearly off-topic will be deleted; the member's email status may be changed plus their posting status may be changed so their future messages are moderated. To avoid this, please refrain from responding to OT posts. Leave decisions as to whether a subject is OT to the moderators. Give them a little time to deal with the matter, and some latitude in judging what is off-topic. Experience has shown that some topics can drift into off-topic areas; for example, posts about using a lathe to make angling equipment can degenerate into fishing reminiscences and those about making car parts into the merits of member's past vehicles. Posts on making gun parts are a particular problem, as they can end up as general discussions about firearms and ballistics, or worse still as sterile arguments about the merits or demerits of gun control, where no-one is ever likely to persuade anyone else to change their views. Think before you post - is what you will be saying really on the subject of lathes and machining? * CNC, ELS and 3D Printer topics are handled in the /g/digitalhobbyist which is dedicated to these and similar topics. Or, /g/3D-Printing-for-Metal-Hobbyists * Please avoid religious or political asides or references in your messages, and likewise quotations, slogans etc at the end of them. Limit signatures to 2 lines maximum. * Be civil to your fellow members; derogatory or combatively worded posts will be deleted, and offenders placed on moderation. * Pictures: Following our move to 开云体育 we would like to allow members to post pictures. We ask that only machining related pictures of lasting interest be posted. When appropriate include mention of the message number concerning the topic covered in the picture(s). Members who expect to post a number of pictures should make an album containing their name to hold their pictures. Pictures of passing interest should be posted in messages or on public servers like Flickr. * Files: Members may post machining related files. Again, these should be of lasting interest. * LINKS are found in the left menu of the Forum under Databases. Moderators may remove pictures or files judged not to meet the above stated criteria. Moderators are currently: John = GadgetBuilder = John@... Mike = DrMico60 Trevor = Trevor_Rymell Maximum size of pictures should be 800x600. Pictures may be cropped and/or resized using Irfanview (free) or any other photo processing program. One criterion for inclusion is that the photo should be of lasting interest, like a lathe modification or accessory, rather than something which will only be of interest while a question is being asked about it. This avoids "Photos" getting too cluttered with pictures relating to long-forgotten threads. *** Moderators

There are "printed circuit board drills" that I believe are carbide. Amazon has inexpensive ones. Professional industrial ones cost more. The are all quite brittle and easy to break. They are usually used in CNC machines with multiple heads doing multiple boards at one time. Amazon.com : printed circuit board drills Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer On Saturday, March 22, 2025 at 11:27:37 AM PDT, Jacques Savard via groups.io <jacquessavard@...> wrote: 399 / 5 000 Résultats de traduction Résultat de traduction I have some cpu 486 or pentium vintage version But impossible to drill a ho;e in the material Normal drill for Metll Nothing Drill Diamand for glass or stained glass Nothing barely trace Probably epoxy tre Do you have an idea please Jack 47 71 it is exposy proly but very hard stouf Any Advise Please

I have some cpu 486 or pentium vintage version But impossible to drill a ho;e in the material Normal drill for Metll Nothing Drill Diamand for glass or stained glass Nothing barely trace Probably epoxy tre Do you have an idea please Jack 47 71 it is exposy proly but very hard stouf Any Advise Please

I have the FC350BJ motor controller on my Cummins mini-mill. It is also used on mini-lathes so this applicable to this forum. It's a second hand machine so I don't know its history. Motor/controller was running as new. Machine was unplugged and not used for a few weeks. Plugged her back in and the motor would not turn-on. The switch portion of the potentiometer/ switch was faulty. In the CCW position the switch should be closed. I had ~1 Meg Ohm of resistance. The transformer for the low voltage +15V, -15V circuit was open on the primary side. Luckily LMS eventually had these parts in stock. LMS Part# 2492(Transformer), #1282 (Potentiometer). I am grateful for their sourcing of replacement parts. After replacing the two known faulty components, the mill now turns-on with full range speed control. I have not yet tested under motor load. I understand that the potentiometer will eventually wear out. The fact that LMS carries the transformer leads me to believe that this is a somewhat common problem with this controller. I did not find anything on the web about this particular problem. Hence one reason why I am posting here. Maybe help out another person that has experienced this fault. Right now, my only brainstorm is there was a power surge when the pot/switch was in the CCW position. The Metal Oxide Varistor didn't clamp and protect transformer, but it did clamp and drew more current than the pot/switch could handle. I have not yet replaced the MOV on the PCB. I haven't completely thought through the problem, yet here I write. Does anyone here have advice on other components that may be faulty/compromised that lead to burn-out of the switch and transformer? Or modifications that can be done to make this controller more robust that are worth the time and money? Resources that I used to assist me during my debugging: John Gerling's write-up https://timsmachines.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/044991-ServiceManual.pdf https://olduhfguy.com/ For now, the mill is up and running. I am still eyeing the KBMD-240D as a more robust alternative. Regards, Gary

The title "Cutting with a rotating cutter" made me think you might be making a polygon cutter for making square, hexagonal, pentagonal shafts etc. You are half way there with gears on the end of the leadscrew! My online program RideTheGearTrain includes a simulation of the polygon cutter so that you can vary the number of cutters on the spinning cutter head, vary the gear ratio between leadscrew and spinning cutter, and vary radius to see what effect it has: Simulated Polygon Cutter I also have YouTube videos about it, including links to other YouTube videos of actual devices. In this link you may also find when you scroll down quite a bit, an indexing device bush fix that I made using a small circular saw blade and I can substitute a range of change gears. The clicker I made for this makes it quite positive and precise: A broken hacksaw blade lifts up on a tooth of the saw blade and clicks off the edge of the tooth. Turn the check back a bit and the saw blade registers nicely on the straight edge of the saw tooth. It is prevented from bending backwards by a metal support on the underside of the blade. the blade I am using has 24 teeth and it is precise enough for at least 24 divisions, 12, 8, 3, 2, 4 etc. I hate the fact that if I leave this post to find the link I want, I will loose the post I have already written. It has happened many times! Evan Lathe: 1955 Boxford Model A with screw cutting gearbox, power feed with several accessories, hand tools and a pillar drill press. Try my Free Online Gear train Software:https://RideTheGearTrain.com You enter a thread pitch or TPI and it shows you a range of gear trains and gearbox setting to use and even a scale drawing of the gear train. It also includes calculations for taper turning by the tailstock offset method, and cutting speeds. It includes the specifications for many thread types eg metric, UNC, BSW, and BA. Displays drill sizes for tapping threads at any percent thread depth (with full explanations). My YouTube Channel and Playlist about using an engineers lathe: https://www.Youtube.com/evan-e-cent Project to build a Greek Hero steam engine and measure its power output: https://HeroSteamEngine.com

A bit ago there was talk on QCGB's , this guy made one for a larger lathe & has several youtubes on his build . https://www.youtube.com/@TomMakeHere/videos

?Dear Gentlemen, 1. If you feel this is too far off the topics generally covered, then may I ask you to simply delete it. I do not want to generate a lot of wasted time and effort on is/is not appropriate for this group. 2. This subject may have been answered before, so if it was then sorry, but how do I access the previous content from maybe 10 + years ago? As I can’t remember it in the last 10 years or so when I think(?) I joined the group. So in fear and trepidation ‘May I ask’ ??? I need to make some small but accurate ( but not precision,) hardwood blocks, approximately 50mm x 50mm x 20mm thick (2in. x 2in. x 1in. thick). They have rebates and angled faces etc. I have sufficient and appropriate router cutters, plus collets. So is there any technical reason why I can’t mill or rather rout them on my milling machine. It will be so much easier and much more accurate. They will probably be made of beech. (I can’t see any reason not to, but I have never tried it before? ) Thank you in advance (but with fear & trepidation), David Nr Oxford, UK. On 13 Feb 2025, at 22:28, Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote: ?That was my instant thought as well. Something like this: https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/%5Bmetal-lathe%5D-indexing-plate-cranck-41391 It won’t work as a crank AND dividing head for your use case, but for the times you need to crank the lathe by hand (like when making a large thread or worm gear ) it will work better than trying to get enough torque to do it with the lathe motor. Christophe has a bunch of really elegant tools and builds. On Feb 13, 2025, at 2:23 PM, Ellis Cory via groups.io <ellis103@...> wrote: Hi Johannes. You don’t need an extra crank. As your dividing disc uses the outer edge for measurement. Just drill a suitable hole in the disc, with a suitable bolt and handle, this can be attached when you need it and removed when you don’t. Ellis I have a big dividing disk on the left side of my lathe. So no space for the crank. However, after some days use, I will use my new crank much more. -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.

My next project on my mini lathe is adding ball bearing on my cross slide and power feed. After that DC drive to carriage. Dose any have photos or drawings the post. Dave FYI This group is for only MINI LATHES. This just FYI ONLY on other This the group's wish to only be Mini Lathes and Improvements to Mini Lathe . The bottom has master rules of all www.groups.io Almost all my threads I have respect there wishes since 2005. I am no longer responding to other Threads Not Mini Lathe. related. Here list of groups that maybe let off Topics. This just short list & groups I have been on in the past. I have this for over 5 years Happy posting /g/Mini-Lathes/messages /g/Unimat /g/minilathe/messages /g/atlas-craftsman/messages /g/SouthBendLathe9/messages /g/DaltonLathes/messages /g/4x6bandsaw/messages https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/ https://weldingweb.com/vbb/forum.php GROUS.IO Terms Please ensure that your group adheres to our Terms of Service. We at 开云体育 believe in freedom of expression, and it is our intention to respect different perspectives and enable them to co-exist seamlessly and effortlessly. We do not permit the following: Pornography, adult content or nudity. Harassment of any kind. Groups that share media or content whose distribution would be in violation of copyright law. Groups dedicated to the promotion of extreme, hateful, or exclusionary ideas, including but not limited to, the alt-right. Groups dedicated to the promotion of conspiracy theories, including, but not limited to: Gamergate, Pizzagate, and Qanon. Groups dedicated to the promotion of anti-vaccination ideologies. Groups that are designed strictly to use our directory as an advertisement for something other than the group itself. Groups dedicated to sharing tags, tubes, PaintShopPro files, GIFs, Incredimail or other stationery or graphics. If you are creating a group solely for testing the features of 开云体育, please ensure that the Directory Of 开云体育 Groups option is set for Do not list group in directory and that the Visibility of Messages in Message Archive option is set for messages can be viewed by group members only. Failure to set these options will result in the group being deleted.

Question: Is lead screw a better tool to move the carriage correct in both direction than use the hand feed wheel? If so, I will make a crank on the right side of the leadscrew. (I am lazy, I do not want to stop the cutting wheel after a cut before returning it for the next cut.) Johannes Mexico

Some cranks & gears off a bike ? Once ya figure out the center of gravity on the mill the ya can start kickin ideas around . DC motors have a good hunk of torque for something like this , it's just finding the right one that may take some time . DOn't forget the limit switches . 40 + years back I have make a setup for all tghe short guys in manufacturing to be able to flip one of our large computer cabines over on its side so they could install anti tip parts . I got my hands on a sizzor life @ the size we needed & we made a flat bed that pivoted like on a dump truck .On the back of the flat bed we put some brackets so they could slide in piece on unistrut tha theld the cabinet to th eflat bed & acted as the handle for the tipping parts . Once we figured out the center of gravity on the cabinet so place the flatbed tipping point it was soothe sailing . Promoters have bee using rotating stages so folks don't have to wait for all the equipment changes between bands for years . animal On 1/30/25 10:08 AM, Ralph Lehotsky via groups.io wrote: