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Last spring I found what was left of a Cheshire & Greenfield "trimmiter," which is a small trimming saw used for linotype at an estate sale for $5 and couldn't say no. It's missing the arbor assembly, but even if it was complete, the table is only about the size of a laptop, so it's usefulness would be limited. Anyone still using linotype probably already has one, or something similar. So the question is: what should I do with it? I'd like to repurpose it as another machine tool, while keeping it as original as possible. It's about 4' tall, heavy and solid. The height of the table can be adjusted 5" or and there is a motor mount on the base. Someone suggested a stand for grinders, but I already have three grinders on another stand (one is bolted to the top of it, and the other two pivot on top of an extension welded to the side of the stand, so they can be positioned as needed). I also considered putting a surface plate on it, but that's a lot of weight, and it would be offset, which might make it tippy. -Dave

The recent messages on vertical cutting tables reminded me I need to fix mine to be able to use it properly. Hopefully the attached photos come through with this message. The top of the blade guide holder that the table screws to is not square to the blade, therefore the table isn't square and is frustrating to use. I have to muck round packing one side to get it square and can't be bothered using it. My main question: is this a manufacturing fault or is there something out of adjustment that I'm missing. I know my options to solve this, if it is a manufacturing fault, are: - making a table with the correct packer welded in place. - making a table frame that locks into the saw work clamp. I just wanted to check before I attack the project that the problem has other solutions I hadn't considered. Thanks and have a wonderful day. Steve

At Mike Allen's request here is a bit of information on the over head rail I'm putting up in my workshop to enable loading lathe and mill from work bench with tooling or material. Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar supported from the ceiling as a rail and a gate system to enable changing direction of a slider with chain block attached. See attached photo for progress so far. Think of it as the old type of rail system used in a meat processing factory where each carcass is on a sliding hook that runs along the rail and has gates that close between rails to move product to different areas. This is actually what I have, my property is an old bacon and small meat goods factory which still had some of the rails and gate systems left in it when I got the place. I've cut it down and moved it to the area I use as my metal workshop. Even though I had everything, it has still take a lot of time to get it cut to size and everything lining up correctly. I've had to modify the gate lengths to make everything fit in the right place. I won't be able to easily change the configuration of things once it is all done so I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and cutting multiple times too! Realistically it is over kill for what I need, it will easily handle 100kg (220lbs), but it was free since I had all the materials.

This deserves its own thread I think we're all your vintage Chuck. I know I am. Never had the cojones to ride MotoX, but really got into Trials. Modified a TS90 and then an SL25 before I got my 1st real trials bike a TY250A and then a TY250B. My mate still has the B and I get to ride it now and again. Gave up serious off-road when some young buck went by me, balls-out with his foot peg sailing past my ear, so went road riding... Got an 2003 M800 Ducati for everyday (still looks like a real motorbike) and a lovely resto-mod XS650 cafe racer (see pics), a thing of joy and beauty (esp compared to the BEM's of nowadays - now there's a sci-fi term from yesteryear!). In my opinion production motorcycles never got better looking than the '67-'69 Bonneville (have gotten waaay better as bikes though!) My workshop was originally set up to work on bikes, 4x6's are just a distraction.

Jerry Durand posted this mod he did quite some time ago, might be of use to others! https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/hf-bandsaw-fix-so-can-actually-take-6-wide-material-78606#post206024

Any chance someone with a Jet HVBS-56 could measure the length and width of the base casting? Jet HVBS-56 ( https://jettools.com/metalworking/sawing/manual-semi-automatic-horizontal-bandsaws/414458 ) I'm trying to see if the stand will fit my Jet Canada 4X6 model. Thanks.

Hello, Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table? Photo's of custom tables would work too.

After taking care of my blade tracking problem and doing some cutting I discovered a problem I haven't seen before. The saw blade was not dropping all the way down, to the point that the work pieces weren't being completely severed. It didn't take much troubleshooting to find the source of the problem: the frame now is cocked over enough that it's hitting the base and then stops cutting. I did a "drag test" where I placed a plastic bag on the base, dropped the frame down and then pulled the bag to see where it was hanging up. It turned out to be those metal brackets around the on/off switch. I was able to get the frame to drop low enough to completely sever stuff I'm cutting by grinding notches in the frame (and grinding down those brackets a little bit), but I'm baffled by WHY my saw would start exhibiting this problem -- I've had it for close to 10 years and this is the first time I've encountered this problem. Anyone have any ideas on what could be going on? The saw hasn't been knocked over or abused, and the pivot doesn't have much play. Certainly not enough to cause my problem. Mark

While browsing the web looking for 4x6 bandsaw alignment information I came across some references to "blade neutral" setup. Basically, the guides should twist the blade but not push it away from the center location (where it would go when the guides are removed. For instance, see this video at about 7:34 into it. I didn't pick that up in the Pitkin bandsaw setup document; but perhaps that's a consequence of the described adjustment method? Inquiring minds want to know :) -Mark

The other day I was cutting some stock with my HF bandsaw when I noticed a new scraping sound coming from the area of the bottom (drive) wheel. Further examination showed that the blade was riding far enough out that it was scraping the inside of the blade cover. Thinking that I just needed to adjust the tracking (something I haven't done since buying the saw), I started in on that -- but quickly discovered that the blade was riding properly on the upper wheel. Not quite touching the flange. Some additional experimentation showed that the drive wheel tracking problem is eased when I reduce the blade tension a bit. I don't think I'm overtightening the blade and bending the frame -- I'd think the upper wheel would be more affected (but I could be wrong about that). I'm not hearing any noise from the drive shaft bearings so think it's unlikely they have worn enough to cause these symptoms. Maybe I just noticed something that is common to these lightweight machines? On the other hand, if the problem is flexing in the drive shaft, that could be a recipe for metal fatigue and eventual failure. Comments? Has anyone else observed this?

Some time back I made an attachment for my shop vac that makes it easy to suck fluids like motor oil, gear oil and the like out of engines or other machinery. Today I used it to suck the old gear oil out of my bandsaw's transmission, and it occurred to me that others might find the idea useful. Consider the always-messy job of replacing motor oil in those small engine appliances like lawnmowers -- this guy makes it easy and mess-free. Same for those badly-designed drain ports for things like ATF and power steering fluids. I've attached a photo of it: It consists of a bucket with a decent lid, a few pipe/tubing fittings, two lengths of plastic tubing and a shop vac. The basic principle is that the shop vac pulls a vacuum inside the bucket, and the fluid is sucked into the bucket via a plastic tube dipped into whatever you want to empty out. The waste fluid drops into the bucket, not the shop vac so it is easy to dump into a jug for recycling or sending off to the dump. To make it I drilled two holes in the bucket lid -- a small one for a brass fitting with a ferrule on one end and threaded on the other. The threaded end is screwed into the hole. This is where the waste oil enters. The second hole is larger, made with a hole saw and a plastic bulkhead fitting is installed. I also turned an aluminum sleeve and glued it into the external side to adapt it to the hose end of my shop vac. Different shop vacs have different-sized hose ends so other folks who try this need to size that part accordingly. It took about 30 seconds to suck most of the gear oil out of the transmission box. If I were to make another one I would make a reinforcing ring out of aluminum or steel and size it to fit about halfway down the inside of the bucket. Cheap plastic buckets tend to collapse under the force of the vacuum..... The pumpkins play no part in the fluid sucker's operation :). Mark

Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. Out here in Sacramento, CA. So I picked up this old boy a week ago for $20. Yeah I know, it’s a 4x7 and not a 4x6, but its the same saw basically. The motor is solid, the main parts are here, just dirty and in need of a minor restore. It is however, missing the lower bearing bracket assembly. I included photos of the upper assembly. I have been looking and there is so little info out there on the specific bandsaw. I’m planning on building this bracket assembly, mostly because I cant find a source for a replacement, but I’m not even sure how it is supposed to look, let alone the dimensions. Is it just a flipped version of the top assembly? If anyone has any info on this, I would greatly appreciate it. Duracraft HBS-347

The jaws on my bandsaw do not extend to the blade. There is also a cutout below the blade to enable the shavings to fall away. This makes it hard to clamp small bits of metal for sawing. These drop-in jaws solve the problem. If you are interested, please, click here ( https://rick.sparber.org/JawExtension.pdf ). Your comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us. Thanks, Rick

I have been looking into a tool that can test blade tension. I changed my saw blade tensioning so that I had a 3/8" NC stud with a nut and thrust washer for tightening the blade. I would tighten the blade until it ran straight then gave 3/4 turn extra for proper tensioning the blade. Recently, I am stumbling onto a different method which uses your cell phone and a tone prediction tool by J. Phil Thien: http://www.jpthien.com/tg.htm For my saw, I calculated that the blade tension should make a tone that is between 97 to 107 Hz. I talked to a guy who builds bicycle wheels. He is using a cell phone app to determine the tone of a plucked spoke (apparently, this is the new "way" to determine spoke tension). The app is called: "Gates Carbon Drive" and is found in the Apple Apps store (and I imagine the Google Play Apps store as well). I downloaded the app and reset my blade tension so it is right in the middle of the range as predicted by J. P. Thien. How do all of you set your blade tension? I certainly don't want to purchase a blade tensioning tool that costs more than the bandsaw.

PSI of the blade cross sectional area. {Excluding the teeth} For a .022” thick blade of ?” width is .011 sq inches. For 17000 psi that is equivalent to 187 lbs hanging off each side of the blade or 374 lb total. Jim Klessig Senior Power Systems Engineer Phone +1 707.497.9611 Jim.Klessig@... | Connect with us at ERS.vertiv.com

No I just picked someone elses thickness they were talking about earlier, as an example for the calculation. Jim Klessig Senior Power Systems Engineer Phone +1 707.497.9611 Jim.Klessig@... | Connect with us at ERS.vertiv.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected by law. If you received this e-mail in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.