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Base casting measurements?

 

Any chance someone with a Jet HVBS-56 could measure the length and width of the base casting?



I'm trying to see if the stand will fit my Jet Canada 4X6 model.

Thanks.
 

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Measured at the lowest point, where it attaches to the legs, I measure approximately 26” x 7”

Lee


On Mar 18, 2022, at 9:00 AM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:

?Any chance someone with a Jet HVBS-56 could measure the length and width of the base casting?



I'm trying to see if the stand will fit my Jet Canada 4X6 model.

Thanks.

 

Thanks much!
 

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You’re welcome!


On Mar 18, 2022, at 2:37 PM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:

?Thanks much!

 

I have the stand coming, says it's made from 14 ga (0.075") steel sheet, is it much of an improvement over the previous paper thin versions?
 

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Nice!


On Mar 19, 2022, at 7:43 AM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:

?I have the stand coming, says it's made from 14 ga (0.075") steel sheet, is it much of an improvement over the previous paper thin versions?

<stand.jpg>
 

Hi Terry
Yes it will be, but maybe not as much as you might want.?
However, whatever?shortcomings you may find can be easily fixed.
There are 3 major drawbacks of the original flimsy?sheet steel bases:
  1. They are so thin they vibrate badly, which is?the biggest contributor to excess noise these saws can make
  2. The support for the wheels to move the saw around is too flimsy and narrow (saw is tippy), besides the legs only really being adequate support when they are all 4 on the ground.
  3. The OEM folded sheet metal tray is totally inadequate bracing for the legs, buckles and fills up with swarf.
Your new one will not vibrate as much (1) due to thicker steel, the wheels are well?supported but the legs are still flimsy (by comparison to what's needed) and the wheels are still too narrow (2),and there is no tray?(3)?for swarf to catch in, which is cleaner but there is no bracing and the tray is very handy to store stuff on, so this is a mixed blessing.
So it's a very useful improvement over the original.
If it still makes too much noise you can damp?the vibrating?panel?with a steel plate bolted to it, with a bit of softish rubber sandwiched between.?
The tippy-ness and flimsy legs can easily be overcome with a 1"x1/4" min. steel brace spanning from front to back legs on each side (see pic) and putting wider wheels on. say an old pair from a lawn mower.
That still leaves it a bit prone to tipping over backwards when the sawframe is vertical (the weight of the sawframe and motor hanging behind the wheels with this stand), but that can be overcome by letting the brace project say 3-4" behind the rear legs and attaching the wheels there.?
I actually prefer to have a tray, but find the swarf build up really annoying. So I use a thin (say 20-22G) sheet metal shield slipped between the base casting and the sheetmetal legs that is bent a bit at the top to?project?upward under the base casting, so no swarf falls into the tray.? It wraps under the RHS of the OEM tray and is pop-riveted to it so stiffens?the tray a lot.??
Your new set of legs has the shield on the wrong side, blocking access to the LHS, of the saw, so has no possibility of a tray. But if you installed the legs under the base end for end, and positioned the wheels on the lengthened brace (so the shield is now on the RHS) you could install a plywood tray AND get additional cross bracing to make the new stand even more rigid and less noisy.? You'd have to pop-rivet a short extension to the top of the?shield to fill up under the base casting to deflect swarf from the?slot between the infeed and outfeed tables.
Your new stand is way better than the original and much better than the open stands made from 16G angle section on newer Grizzly and RF saws.?Its not the manly, 400HP, Tim-the-Toolman style of a stand built in 2"x2"x1/4" tube that many prefer, but, that said, I've?never built a new stand from scratch, as my?2 saws with original flimsy sheet metal bases are more than rigid enough with the mods shown in the pics.?
Your new base will be more than adequate in stock form and easily upgraded if you find it necessary - jv?




On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 3:43 AM terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:
I have the stand coming, says it's made from 14 ga (0.075") steel sheet, is it much of an improvement over the previous paper thin versions?

BHUC115 stand strengthen.jpg
BHUC115 swarf deflector.jpg

 

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One of the things I love about hobby groups like this is the way they invent ways to solve the manufacturing deficiencies of inexpensive machines and tune them to perform like much pricier items. Shops that are run for profit can’t afford the amount of labor it takes to turn frogs into princes. Personally, I’m lucky to have bought a HF 6” saw many years ago from a guy who never really used it and have it tuned to do some pretty amazing work. Still, the primary function of these saws is to cut stock to approximate length so that it can be turned or milled to final dimensions. So… keep up the great work. But, don’t forget that the main reason these saws were invented is to save you the labor and sweat of cutting a piece of 2 1/2” mild steel into feed stock with a hand hack saw for the lathe job you’re trying to get done.

?

?
 

Thanks guys, I should have the new base next week and will report back.? I was lucky to find that on Fleebay fairly reasonable, I saw a price from Jet somewhere that was over $700!

I checked my existing stand and it's only 0.045" sheet (maybe 20ga with paint?), hopefully this will be better.? Plus my wheels are forward of the legs like John's, the newer design has them in the legs...
 
Edited

The first time I experienced the tip-over-backward tendency of my HF saw I set about to eliminate it much the way that John Vreede did.? I used a couple of lengths of 1-1/2"x3/16" angle iron, bolting the stock stand to it with some angle brackets.? I stuck my back wheels (cannibalized from a Razor scooter) out farther than John did, so even if the saw gets away from me when when raising it, it still can't flip over.? My front wheels came from a RipStik caster board, they're well-made and swivel easily.? I added a wooden shelf on the bottom, which is nice for storing accessories.? The swarf-catcher visible in the first photo is a heavy sheet metal affair that was an offcut from a workbench shelf that I shortened; it just hangs off the upper shelf of the saw.
 

Got the new stand today and it mounted right up, it's a big improvement over my original paper thin unit.

You can't imagine the joy I felt throwing that old POS stand in the trash!

Thanks for the help!
 

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Great news! Post a pic when you can!


On Mar 30, 2022, at 8:55 PM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:

?Got the new stand today and it mounted right up, it's a big improvement over my original paper thin unit.

You can't imagine the joy I felt throwing that old POS stand in the trash!

Thanks for the help!

 
Edited



I kept looking at making something up but just never seemed to find the time, this was a great compromise.

BTW, I find these blades are fantastic with our little saws, they work great on all materials including stainless and titanium:
 

It looks great, and I'm sure it's a lot sturdier than the original equipment, *but*...that saw is still ready to do a backflip if you lose control of the arm when you raise it.
 

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Looks great! Now, where did you purchase the stand?


On Apr 1, 2022, at 10:19 AM, terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:

?
<007.JPG>


I kept looking at making something up but just never seemed to find the time, this was a great compromise.

BTW, I find these blades are fantastic wit our little saws, they work great on all materials including stainless and titanium:
 

Looks good Terry
But Jims right, it WILL backflip on you, esp if you move it with?the sawframe vertical.?
You'll tell yourself you'll never do it, but there will be that one time when you?just need to move it an?inch or 2 for clearance on a long bit of stock in?the?vice and.....?
The front legs will just run straight?into your shins and there won't?be anything you can do to stop it.
When it backflips, generally the pivot ears break off the base casting and the saw is junk?
3-4" further back is all it needs - jv


On Sat, Apr 2, 2022 at 6:40 AM Jim Frame <jhframe@...> wrote:
It looks great, and I'm sure it's a lot sturdier than the original equipment, *but*...that saw is still ready to do a backflip if you lose control of the arm when you raise it.

 
Edited

Ya, I had it almost do the backflip on me once, now I always hold the top with one hand and the handle with the other when I move it.

I got it on Fleebay but as mentioned if you order it from Jet it could be $700!
 

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That's the blades I use. I cut a lot of stainless, as well as alloys like 4140Q&T. The Lenox blades hold up better than any I've used.

I did use Irwin's bi-metal blades for a while, since they were $14.00 a copy from Enco, which, at the time, was less than half what the Lenox was going for. Irwin is not as tough as the Lenox, but is a good blade, and was real good at the price.

Now, MSC sells the Irwin's for the same price as what I pay for the Lenox. In that case, Lenox wins!

Other Bill


On 4/1/2022 10:19 AM, terry keeley wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]



I kept looking at making something up but just never seemed to find the time, this was a great compromise.

BTW, I find these blades are fantastic with our little saws, they work great on all materials including stainless and titanium:


Virus-free.

 

There is a pin on mine near the hinge point on the left side that locks the top to be body.?
I Always use that and have yet to have a scare. I've forgotten lots of other things but not this one...yet.

On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 12:33 PM terry keeley <tkee@...> wrote:
Ya, I had it almost do the backflip on me once, now I always hold the top with one hand and the handle with the other when I move it.

I got it on Fleebay but as mentioned if you order it from Jet it could be $700!
 

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If that handle is still floppy, that will be the thing that gets you the most unexpected way.
As the saw goes over forward,? the handle folds down allowing even more uncontrolled forward flipping motion!
Firm that handle up somehow...
.
After that, going past center of gravity, the wheels will roll towards your feet and the saw will hit the ground that way as well.
.
And then there is the standard sideways fall over as well.
.
3-ways + to ruin your day.
.
John


On 4/1/2022 1:40 PM, Jim Frame wrote:

It looks great, and I'm sure it's a lot sturdier than the original equipment, *but*...that saw is still ready to do a backflip if you lose control of the arm when you raise it.


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