The jaws on my bandsaw do not extend to the blade. There is also a cutout below the blade to enable the shavings to fall away. This makes it hard to clamp small bits of metal for sawing. These drop-in jaws solve the problem.

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If you are interested, please, click .

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?Your comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

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?Thanks,

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Rick

On Sat, Feb 12, 2022 at 06:04 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:

The jaws on my bandsaw do not extend to the blade. There is also a cutout below the blade to enable the shavings to fall away. This makes it hard to clamp small bits of metal for sawing. These drop-in jaws solve the problem.

Thanks for sharing although I have a few observations and concerns. First, 1/4" steel would have been totally adequate on the jaws and you have limited your clamping range. Second, the moving jaw will hit the blade guide when the vise is opened very far. Third, the narrow gap under the stock is a plus! Forth, put the larger plate on the back jaw only for the reason listed above. Fifth, when you cut a 45 degree angle the additional plate will be in the blade path (you can remove it when needed). Sixth, *leave a slight gap between the blade and the back jaw (it looks like you did).

*I added a back jaw and trimmed a bit off with the saw. It seemed like a logical approach but it was a bad idea. The steel continues to rub on the side of the blade and will dull the teeth on one side. After maybe 20 cuts the blade will start to wander in the cut.??

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Hi Rick,

thanks for the posting. ? The postings have been pretty slow lately.

I did a similar jaw modification. ? I took a number of pictures ?and provided a short description in the photo section.

I think I will try a hard wood block in the open gap where the blade settles. ? That way, the saw will cut its own slot and the wood will support the part. ?

I think the best solution is to make a separate clamp that can be clamped into the saw vise. ? That way one can carefully set up the part on the bench before transferring it to the saw. ? I have to pencil this out and get some steel.

thanks for posting.
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Dave

Mark,

You make an important point about the blade rubbing. I'll update the article.

I don't understand you comment about 1/4" thick jaws working since they bent when I used them. In fact, I thiink they were more like 3/8" thick. What you you mean by "clamping range"?.

The "larger plate" is the one on the left end of the fixed jaw. Is that the one you are referring to??

I will update the article to say that these jaws are only intended for 90 degree cuts.?

Thanks for your comments.

Rick

By using 1" bars you have taken out 2" that will fit between the jaws. Paul M

Yup. This trade off works for me.?

Rick

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Hi Rick,

A simple & clever way to cut small parts on the band saw! As usual, nice detail!

Not sure about all the criticism that came in. It's not like your small-part jaws go on there, and more importantly, stay there after installation. Put it on, cut some small parts, and remove it. I have a few fixtures for doing 'specialty' tasks, including for cutting small parts.

I bought a small vise, for cutting small parts. Pic attached. Pretty straight forward. (The v-groove in the vise is handy for small rounds, as pictured)

I built a fixture for making angled cuts with tubing. My Grizz saw cuts angles, but some angles it won't do.

I have another simple fixture, which is just a drilled & tapped plate, for holding odd shaped items using step clamps. I've made some shorter jaws, longer jaws, and all sorts of goodies, for tasks where the stock jaws just won't do it. Again, they are not made to be on the saw all the time.

Nice job Rick!

Other Bill

The jaws on my bandsaw do not extend to the blade. There is also a cutout below the blade to enable the shavings to fall away. This makes it hard to clamp small bits of metal for sawing. These drop-in jaws solve the problem.

?

?

If you are interested, please, click .

?

?Your comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

?

?

?Thanks,

?

?

?

Rick

On Mon, Feb 14, 2022 at 06:44 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:

You make an important point about the blade rubbing. I'll update the article.

I don't understand you comment about 1/4" thick jaws working since they bent when I used them. In fact, I thiink they were more like 3/8" thick. What you you mean by "clamping range"?.

I may be confused. I was talking about the attachment you posted. The additional jaws attached to your original jaws looked to be about 1/2" thick but then I read the attachment again and it said 1-inch!!!? If this is the case you lose 2-inch of clamping range. The 1"-inch on the moving jaw limits you further because the moving jaw hits the blade guide. How of earth do you bend 1/4 plate? If we are on the same page and have the same saw (which in both cases we may not) something else would likely break before the 1/4" plate would bend. In fact my original fixed jaw is likely less than 1/4" thick in some places. I used 3/8" just because I had it but I have taken if off a several times to have the full capacity of the vise.?

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I attached two pics. the first shows where the blade guide hits the movable jaw and the second is how I hold small stock. And I totally agree about the gap where the blade goes into the table. I need to fix mine.?

Mark

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These straps deflect enough to not hold well:?

Rick

On Mon, Feb 14, 2022 at 04:19 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:

These straps deflect enough to not hold well:?

I see your point now although I seldom have a problem holding small stock. I have the 3/8 plate on the stationary jaw and just move the other jaw toward the blade. Most the force is on the fixed jaw.?

I apologize, I was lazy and didn't completely read your pdf. As a result most my comments were not appropriate. I think the 1-inch is overkill but I also thought you were attaching the stock to the jaws. My bad!

Mark