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Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. Out here in Sacramento, CA. So I picked up this old boy a week ago for $20. Yeah I know, it’s a 4x7 and not a 4x6, but its the same saw basically. The motor is solid, the main parts are here, just dirty and in need of a minor restore. It is however, missing the lower bearing bracket assembly. I included photos of the upper assembly. I have been looking and there is so little info out there on the specific bandsaw. I’m planning on building this bracket assembly, mostly because I cant find a source for a replacement, but I’m not even sure how it is supposed to look, let alone the dimensions. Is it just a flipped version of the top assembly? If anyone has any info on this, I would greatly appreciate it.?
Duracraft HBS-347
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It looks similar to the sliding bracket, just shorter, and with a drilled & tapped hole instead of the long slot.
Like this:
Or this:
?
One of those might even fit. Jet would be most likely, as they are made in Taiwan like the Duracrafts were.
You may want to check Rong Fu. They build a lot of stuff for Jet.
Pricey little critter from ereplacementparts. Same assy on the Jet website is $140.86….yikes….even worse! ?
Be worth a call to Horror Freight, to see what the prices are for their parts, and if they have stock. (800-444-3353)
?
If you have a welder, and a lathe & mill would make things easy….you could build all the parts, other than the bearings of course.
For the part that the bearings mount to, it would be easy enough to measure what you have for the upper.
The shoulder bolts that hold the two side bearings are on eccentrics, so a little lathe work is required.
?
Somewhere for you to start anyway…
J
Bill
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Jared.barsuglia@...
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2020 8:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw
?
Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. Out here in Sacramento, CA. So I picked up this old boy a week ago for $20. Yeah I know, it’s a 4x7 and not a 4x6, but its the same saw basically. The motor is solid, the main parts are here, just dirty
and in need of a minor restore. It is however, missing the lower bearing bracket assembly. I included photos of the upper assembly. I have been looking and there is so little info out there on the specific bandsaw. I’m planning on building this bracket assembly,
mostly because I cant find a source for a replacement, but I’m not even sure how it is supposed to look, let alone the dimensions. Is it just a flipped version of the top assembly? If anyone has any info on this, I would greatly appreciate it.?
Duracraft HBS-347
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Absolutely great information, thank you. I do have a lathe, mill, and welder, and so is my plan to just fabricate it myself. Your insights, I’m sure, will prove to be invaluable. I can’t imagine spending $140 on that assembly, at least for this little guy. I’m never one to turn down a non profitable project, so here we go. Thanks again Bill, I’ll be diving into those web links throughout the day.?
J
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You’re welcome Jared!
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I saw your mill table in one of your pics….so I figured you have all the right toys!
Wouldn’t be a difficult bunch of parts to build actually, as you have the upper assy to copy!
Fun project!
For about $250, you can get a complete saw from Horror Freight, or Grizzly….and others.
$140 for just that bracket assy? I agree….that is just nuts. ?
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Bill
?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Jared.barsuglia@...
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2020 11:35 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw
?
Absolutely great information, thank you. I do have a lathe, mill, and welder, and so is my plan to just fabricate it myself. Your insights, I’m sure, will prove to be invaluable. I can’t imagine spending $140 on that assembly, at least for this little guy.
I’m never one to turn down a non profitable project, so here we go. Thanks again Bill, I’ll be diving into those web links throughout the day.?
J
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Hi Jared
Yeah yours is special, I think there are some pictures of a Duracraft waaaay back in the photos section. Can't see from your pictures but I think the Duracraft saw had the hinge between base and sawframe bolt onto the base casting, making it much easier to renovate. Good saw with slightly more capacity but the disadvantage is you don't use standard 64 !/2" blades.? If its 7 inch they'll be 66 1/2" so you'll have to get them specially made for you, or learn to silver solder them yourself.?
No, Jet or HF guide assemblies will not fit.? Yours slide on the outside of the casting, where most everyones elses slide inside the casting, so the offset of the roller guide bracket (that carries the rollers) to the guide bar is different.?
Just pattern it as a mirror image of the? of the one you've got and you'll be OK.?
I think most upper guide bars are an inch or two longer than the lower ones so you can get the upper rollers in close to the work.? Needs to be long enough for the rollers to get close to the outfeed table.? No point in them being longer, or the saw won't complete the cut
Welcome aboard - jv
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On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 03:39 AM, John Vreede wrote:
"...Good saw with slightly more capacity but the disadvantage is you don't use standard 64 !/2" blades.? If its 7 inch they'll be 66 1/2"..."
I would measure the total distance around both wheels by wrapping a non-stretching string around the path taken by the blade then measure how long the string has to be before making any assumptions about blade length. I have a JET 5x6 that uses 64-1/2 x 1/2 x .025 blades. Raymond
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??? ??? theirs a band saw blade calculator on line google &
several should come up
??? ??? animal
On 1/21/2020 4:35 AM, mondosmetals
wrote:
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On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 03:39 AM, John Vreede wrote:
"...Good saw with slightly more capacity but the
disadvantage is you don't use standard 64 !/2" blades.? If its 7
inch they'll be 66 1/2"..."
I would measure the total distance around both wheels by wrapping
a non-stretching string around the path taken by the blade then
measure how long the string has to be before making any
assumptions about blade length. I have a JET 5x6 that uses 64-1/2
x 1/2 x .025 blades.
Raymond
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3.14 times the diameter of one wheel plus 2 times
the distance between wheel centers.
On 1/21/20 10:02 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? theirs a band saw blade calculator on line google &
several should come up
??? ??? animal
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
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Hello,
I just bought a Duracraft HBS-346.? Trying to change the bearings.? Let me know what you need.? My saw appears to have all its parts.? I cannot figure out how to remove the 4 vertical bearings on the blade guides.? The 2 vertical bearings (one on each guide) I am able to punch out the pin.??
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On 2/19/2022 6:54 AM, Joe Widmayer via groups.io wrote: Hello,
I just bought a Duracraft HBS-346.? Trying to change the bearings.? Let me know what you need.? My saw appears to have all its parts.? I cannot figure out how to remove the 4 vertical bearings on the blade guides. The 2 vertical bearings (one on each guide) I am able to punch out the pin. There should be a circlip on the bottom of each bearing axle . And on mine (mfr unknown , it was given to me) you must pull at least one of those rollers to get the bearing out after removing the horizontal axle . -- Snag My rights don't end where your fears begin.
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Hi Joe There are a number of different ways the side guide rollers attach to the guide bracket. At least one of them is mounted on an?eccentric spindle. Better quality saws have only one eccentric, on the outside?of the loop of the blade, with a concentric mount inside of the loop.? Lesser quality?saws have both guide roller bearings on eccentrics.?? The eccentric?spindle can be either:??
1. A hollow tophat-like washer with a thru-bolt hole drilled eccentrically through it. The bolt screws into a thread in the bracket, or may pass all the way through with a nut on the back side.?? 2. The other type has a bolt that passes through the guide bracket with an eccentric (or concentric) spindle on the head of the bolt. Bearings are retained with??the bolt + a washer through the top-hat , or a circlip or even a separate small screw+washer into the stud. No big deal to replace the bearings which are normally a slide fit on the eccentric (or concentric) spindle or washer.? ?? #2 is better as you don't upset the clearance between the blade and the rollers when changing the bearings, the other requires the guideroller-to-blade clearance to be re-set?after replacement.? If this does not conform to what is on your saw, pls post a picture - jv
On Sun, Feb 20, 2022 at 2:44 AM Joe Widmayer via <widmayers= [email protected]> wrote: Hello,
I just bought a Duracraft HBS-346.? Trying to change the bearings.? Let me know what you need.? My saw appears to have all its parts.? I cannot figure out how to remove the 4 vertical bearings on the blade guides.? The 2 vertical bearings (one on each guide) I am able to punch out the pin.??
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Terry,
I think my saw has "cam followers" for the horizontal bearings.? There is not a clip.
They are not too hard to find except for the one with the eccentric.
Thanks,
Joe
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John,
It appears the horizontal bearings are cam followers and are not supposed to be taken apart.
Not to hard to find for the regular one but the eccentric may be expensive. I hoped to remove the eccentic on the shaft but it looks like it was peened at the thin part to keep it on: and, or may have been pressed on.? Not sure if it is removable without destroying it.
Trying to figure out the eccentic on the shaft.? To my thinking, it must not rotate on the shaft to make adjuctments possible.? So it is pressed on or peened to keep it in place.? I could possibly remove the peened part by grinding/filing.? No real way to press it off that I can think of.
A couple of thoughts:
I too often try to do things too inexpensively.
Cam followers can be lubricated.? The person I bought the saw from said he "cleaned it up a bit with PB Blaster"? That may have remove the lubricant.
The saw is 43 years old.? The only wear items are those bearing.? I should try to lubricate the cam followrs and replace the vertical bearing.
I got the saw a few days ago.? It did not have a blade.? I should have put a blade on it first thing.? My excuse was looking at videos replacing bearings, not cam followers for $10.
I should go fishing or make my wife breakfast.? OK, I should do both.
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On 2/21/2022 6:19 AM, Joe Widmayer via groups.io wrote: John,
It appears the horizontal bearings are cam followers and are not supposed to be taken apart.
Not to hard to find for the regular one but the eccentric may be expensive. I hoped to remove the eccentic on the shaft but it looks like it was peened at the thin part to keep it on: and, or may have been pressed on.? Not sure if it is removable without destroying it. Yours are totally different from mine . Looking at your photos , I suspect the bearing is pressed onto the eccentric . If so , you won't get it off intact . A big c clamp , vise , or press with a sleeve pushing on the outer race should get them off . -- Snag My rights don't end where your fears begin.
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??? ??? Make your wife fish for breakfast
??? animal
On 2/21/2022 4:19 AM, Joe Widmayer via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John,
It appears the horizontal bearings are cam followers and are not
supposed to be taken apart.
Not to hard to find for the regular one but the eccentric may be
expensive. I hoped to remove the eccentic on the shaft but it
looks like it was peened at the thin part to keep it on: and, or
may have been pressed on.? Not sure if it is removable without
destroying it.
Trying to figure out the eccentic on the shaft.? To my thinking,
it must not rotate on the shaft to make adjuctments possible.? So
it is pressed on or peened to keep it in place.? I could possibly
remove the peened part by grinding/filing.? No real way to press
it off that I can think of.
A couple of thoughts:
I too often try to do things too inexpensively.
Cam followers can be lubricated.? The person I bought the saw from
said he "cleaned it up a bit with PB Blaster"? That may have
remove the lubricant.
The saw is 43 years old.? The only wear items are those bearing.?
I should try to lubricate the cam followrs and replace the
vertical bearing.
I got the saw a few days ago.? It did not have a blade.? I should
have put a blade on it first thing.? My excuse was looking at
videos replacing bearings, not cam followers for $10.
I should go fishing or make my wife breakfast.? OK, I should do
both.
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Alright now we're getting somewhere.? Duracraft name should have rung some bells, but my hearings not what it was!?
An early saw for sure, and US made I think? (though US firms were starting to outsource at that time).
Yes, they are cam follower bearings and still available from needle roller specialists like IKO (). Probably one eccentric- and the other concentric-mount.? IKO ones look to be dis-assemble-able but if yours are peened, then that is not possible. 4 new ones would probably cost more than you paid for the saw.?
Its unlikely that all have failed, you should try to save the good ones.? ?
Have you tried cleaning them in an ultrasonic bath and then re-introducing grease by dissolving it in a an evaporating solvent like petrol? What about washing out with WD40 or or a more active cleanser like CRC 2-26??
Relatively easy to retrofit modern bearing mounts, by filling in the large cam follower hole with a slug of mild steel glued in place with high strength red Loctite, or thread the hole and Loctite in a threaded slug, then tap or drill for the new bearing mounts.?
So long as the inner roller surface is in the same place on both upper and lower guide assemblies there will be no problem adjusting the saw for squareness. Minimum distance between the rollers should be 0.020" or less (blade is 0.025" thick).
HF, Jet and Grizzly all have spare parts, look for a saw that has different part numbers for the inside and outside roller mounts, so you get a concentric inner mount and eccentric outer (manuals in the Files section of the site).??
The simplest mount is the top-hat washer (concentric inner, eccentric outer) to mount the bearings on with spanner flats filed on the 'brim of the hat' to adjust the?eccentric ones, fixed to the bracket (the bit the bearings are mounted on) with a 1/4" or 5/16" cap screw through, but you need a lathe for that.
Metric bearing sizes 629, 6000, 6200 and 6201 have all been used as side guide rollers on saws, the higher numbers are bigger OD and will last longer. You could pick equivalent inch sizes too if you're making your own mounts - all std saws use metric bearings. - jv
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Thanks for all the info.
I have tried to relube them.? The top(with the blade slot) has a hole for lubrication.? The other side has the plug installed.? I tried to spray some ;ithium grease from a spray can with a straw.? Not a good fit but some went in. It is getting better.? Cargill has some information.? Talk about a 1/8" press fit grease nipple.
Size:? It appears the are CFE10 (22mm diameter).? The measurement is closer to that then a CFE7/8.? I would have expected it to be inch be it appears metric.? They may not be original.? I bought some CF10 and the fit good.? I might try a CF7/8 if I can find it cheap.? I have been measuring with my cheap digital calipers.? I do not not have a good knowledge of clearances so it is easier to buy a cheap one to test fit.
Possible sizes are CFE10, KR22, and maybe a CFE7/8 (it is a little bigger)
I will write more later.? Got to change frier oil and fix a car air conditioner.? When I get home putting the saw together
Finish:? the saw cam followers have a chrome? finish.? It is shiney at least.? I have only found CFE's with a black oxide finish.? Would that be OK?? I am not sure if it is realy chrome to make it harder.
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Hi Joe. I doubt that they're hard chrome plated as this would be a way for them to fail though they could be. Ordinary bearings are just finish ground from some pretty high ally steel which has a lot of chromium in. Cam follower bearing are meant to have things rubbing against them so even the black finish will be good - jv
Thanks for all the info.
I have tried to relube them.? The top(with the blade slot) has a hole for lubrication.? The other side has the plug installed.? I tried to spray some ;ithium grease from a spray can with a straw.? Not a good fit but some went in. It is getting better.? Cargill has some information.? Talk about a 1/8" press fit grease nipple.
Size:? It appears the are CFE10 (22mm diameter).? The measurement is closer to that then a CFE7/8.? I would have expected it to be inch be it appears metric.? They may not be original.? I bought some CF10 and the fit good.? I might try a CF7/8 if I can find it cheap.? I have been measuring with my cheap digital calipers.? I do not not have a good knowledge of clearances so it is easier to buy a cheap one to test fit.
Possible sizes are CFE10, KR22, and maybe a CFE7/8 (it is a little bigger)
I will write more later.? Got to change frier oil and fix a car air conditioner.? When I get home putting the saw together
Finish:? the saw cam followers have a chrome? finish.? It is shiney at least.? I have only found CFE's with a black oxide finish.? Would that be OK?? I am not sure if it is realy chrome to make it harder.
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John Vreede
Jerry Durand
