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I'd like to get a light for my bandsaw. I'm not really wanting to attach it to the saw body, for it would put more weight on the cut. Can you take pictures of your saw with the light on it? I think I'd like to have a light to better see my scale on the table.

I must be missing something here. Why do you care if the blade is square to the table? Unless you are using a fence or jig do you really care, and if you are using one of them, why not just build it square to the blade? R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer | Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV jim.klessig@...<mailto:jim.klessig@...>, jim_klessig@...<mailto:jim_klessig@...> 1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA | Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653 Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 3:46 AM To: [email protected] Group Moderators <[email protected]> Subject: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called m_3130.pdf), that will give you the direction on the blade. A spring type clothes peg will do but the rule has to be very flat. To mark the table screw positions, get a couple of 1/4"x20 UNC setscrews (pointed is best but cone point will do) and screw them into the mounting holes point up and leave protruding 10~20thou. Position the table so the edge is parallel to the blade direction shown by the clipped on steel rule Then tap the table over the set screws to leave a centre punch mark to drill into In fact, do one hole first. Mark, drill and countersink and fasten the table lightly on the guide bracket, then line it up with the clipped-on rule, before marking the second hole - jv

While I was waiting for new blades from sawblade.com to arrive this week, I spent some quality time with my saw and discovered that there was a lot of gunk between the blade guide bar and the slot it fits into (the one closer to the hinge end of the saw). Cleaning it up actually straightened the blade out a bit, but only by a degree or two. I tried inverting the blade too, but it didn't make any difference. When the new blades showed up today, they still cut at an angle, so I knew it wasn't the blade. I thought about shimming the blade guides to change the angle of the blade, but that wouldn't fix the problem, just the symptoms. I adjusted the cams, and it cut a little straighter, but after about a minute of cutting some aluminum, the blade suddenly stopped. One of the bearings had broken (a chunk fell out of the outer race!) and the dust caps had popped off. Obviously way too tight. Another set of bearings was swapped in, and then the blade wouldn't stay on the wheels. This was going downhill fast, so I stepped back and realized that the best way to adjust the bearings was without the blade, and off the machine. Much easier! I only did one test cut, which was almost perfect, and left it to work on some other things. Last week, when I checked the HF blade for squareness, it looked right on (both before and after I inverted it.). Today when I checked the new blade, it was obviously not square, but both cut at the same angle before adjustment. If further tweaking doesn't make it cut dead straight consistently, I'm thinking about adding set screws to channels the guide bars sit in so that the angle can be finely adjusted. -Dave

I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage. The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table. I've checked everything in Mr Pitkin's great PDF to the best of my ability and it all checks out. The blade rides perfectly on the two wheels. After I took the picture below I even removed the upper and lower bearing guides and milled them to give me the ability to rotate them more than they could before. I'm now probably about half as far off as the picture but removing even more from the guides just seems like a bad idea, like I'm having to resort to extreme measures to correct something that could be fixed in a more conventional adjustment. What could I be missing here?

Hello, I'll be making some band saw modifications and thought I'd download some images. I downloaded some images of my hydraulic down feed cylinder in another thread. This thread will show the other modifications. Here are some images of my vise mod. This modification is very similar to the one others have implemented to hold short pieces. I chose to make a clamp that will hold the smooth spacer rod at the end of my extended, movable vise jaw rather than use a threaded rod. I used 1/4"x3" steel to make the movable jaw modification and to make the floating jaw which is placed next to the stationary vise jaw. These changes allows one to clamp parts right next to the saw blade. I used the saw to cut these to the length. I decided to just knurl the ends of the rods rather than making a tommy bolt. None of the items on this saw need to be that tight and a knurled end is sufficient. I also included a block with a screw which is used to adjust the vise to be square with the blade. This will also allow one to move the fixed vise and have it come back to the square position when done. I also made a threaded T nut to run in the slot when moving the fixed vise jaw. This allows one to move the vise jaw by just loosening the bolt on the top and not have to have a wrench on the bottom of the saw frame. I'm going to be working on a blade brush and some other things in the near future. Dave

I am a long-time member of this forum although I have never posted until now. I thought some might like to see a major modification I made to my saw. I converted it to cut permanently in the vertical position and made many improvements along the way: I made a rock solid table (see the picture) and made the table height much more ergonomic. I added a chip collection feature that uses a shop vac hidden in the saw base to vacuum the chips. It works great. I also added a magnetic on/off switch mounted at eye level (see the picture). This conversion is currently featured on the cover of Home Shop Machinist magazine in the March/April 2021 edition. I went into a lot of detail on how I did the entire conversion if you are interested in doing something similar. https://www.homeshopmachinist.net/march-april-2021-issue-volume-40-number-2/ This modification is clearly not for everybody. But for me, at this stage in my life, it was exactly what I needed. It is so nice now to cut in the vertical position and not have to straddle the saw base. I feel like my 40-year-old saw is brand new again. I couldn’t be happier with the conversion.

This isn't my idea but when i saw it I had to make it. I used 3x3 tubing because I had it but 2x2 would have been totally adequate. The upright tub under the table sits on the lower casting so the the table is rock solid.

I did a youtube video about fine tuning a 4x6 bandsaw. On my particular saw when you adjusted the blade guides properly it would not cut completely through the stock. The blade cover hit the base and after I removed the blade cover the top section hit the switch housing. Anyway, I milled a 1/4" plate and put it under the vice jaws and it completely eliminated the problem. After posting the videos I had a bunch of requests for these plates so I starting making them. Where I live here in KY there is a steel yard where I can get low price steel ($.35 cents a lb) and then I found a place to laser cut the steel plate for a fairly good price. My goal was to make them under $35 and I managed to do it for $29.50 (Living in KY has some pluses!) Anyway, if you are interested here's a video describing the plate and installation as well as a link to the original videos and my web store. I listed 10 plates a last week and they all sold in about 25 minute so apparently this is a common problem. I just got 16 more plates and I have no idea how long this inventory will last. I'll keep having them made if they keep selling but I'm not sure how much longer I can get the steel this cheap. This steel is off cuts from industry. If I buy new steel the price will go up significantly. PLEASE print a template to make sure it fits your saw before ordering Installation video: https://youtu.be/2uGxOE0VucM Plate Template to check fit: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11HDgZ0rr1hfUcis7mvr8VihSo_qGThya?usp=sharing Elevating Plate (web store with FREE shipping): https://markq6zlmc.fws.store/Elevating_Plate/p7671236_21023715.aspx Fine Tuning your 4 x 6 Horizontal Bandsaw: Part One: https://youtu.be/SzjqDqpWRCA Part Two: https://youtu.be/-GiKBm4gecw

Haven’t posted in a long time. Had my hf 4x6 saw for probably 15 years. Has been a pretty good saw, had to make special bushings and redo the front pivot to get it squared up, but it’s been working ok. Lately no matter what I do the blade likes to come off the wheels, doesn’t matter if it’s a light or heavy cut. So I thought I’d tear the whole thing down, start from ground zero, and give it a good tune up. Basically followed the “ Blade tracking and adjustment “ by John Pitkin that’s found in the groups files. The wheels are round and lined up top to bottom. Used a good straight edge and played a bit with both upper and lower wheels till they were in line. Put a new blade on and fired it up. About a turn on the tilt bolt and the blade came up nicely against the flange on both wheels, just touching and not a hard rub. More tension adde to the blade and everything s nice and quiet, smooth running. Now for the PITA part, no matter what I do to try and adjust the guides, in about 3 revolutions it tosses the blade off. I’ve tried just the upper guides, just the lower guides, and both upper and lower guides, both side guides loose or snugged up a bit. The rear roller guides are set well behind the blade at this point, no contact at all. As soon as I start the saw, the blade starts coming off the lower wheel, and with in a few seconds it’s off everything. I’m looking for some help here. Willing to try whatever, I’m sure stumped on this. thanks karl

Things have been too busy lately to do the vertical alignment procedure described by John Vreede, so I came up with a workaround. It is useful because it can be used with short material without changing the thickness of the shim needed to correct the misalignment. Here it is in use (sorry for the slight blur): The work is dropped into the jaw and the aluminum piece is clamped in place with the C clamp, then the shim (in this case a US penny was perfect) is placed between the top of the jaw and aluminum piece, tilting the work up. Then the jaw is tightened down. The horizontal aluminum piece allows me to place the penny in the same location regardless of the length of the piece I'm cutting -- assuming that the aluminum alignment arm is installed so it is parallel to the jaw. To be absolutely correct, it would be best to reverse things so the fixed jaw forms the reference plane. The moveable jaw could wobble, affecting the alignment -- but if you look closely you will see a couple of brass screws attached to the fixed jaw. They were initially added to help prevent the moveable jaw from tilting back when it's tightened down: but they also keep the jaw from wobbling. Folks who haven't done this mod probably want to use the fixed jaw to do the alignment correctoin. The observant will also notice that the jaws have been extended, and a "jack screw" setup is on the left side to keep the moveable jaw from rotating if I'm clamping short pieces to cut. In reality it's not a screw but a clamp arrangement for a .5" diameter rod. It is quick and easy to set up. I drilled a .5" diameter hole for the rod, then cut a slot up to it. There are two blocks, one on each side of the slot; the left one is drilled for clearance and the right one was tapped for a 10-34 screw. Tightening the screw down clamps the rod securely in place. Mark

Hello, I'm new to this group. I've had a YouTube channel for a while (Winky's Workshop) which is mostly metal working although I include some woodworking. For several years I used a power hacksaw I restored and then decided to upgrade to a bandsaw. I bought a Harbor Freight saw and while I didn't expect top quality I was somewhat disappointed. Anyway, I used a little intuition and did some reading and watched a few videos on setting up a horizontal saw. Oddly one of the best info was from Grizzly. They did a good video on one of their high end saws but what they said about blade tracking also applied to any horizontal bandsaw. Anyway, basically the problem with my saw was the blade guide set up. The blade guides were deflecting the blade too much downward. Ideally the guides should only twist the blade to vertical and the back bearing should just kiss the back of the blade unless you are actually cutting. So the guides don't have enough adjustment to achieve this setting but I was able to get much closer. THE PROBLEM: Moving the blade guides up created a depth of cut issue. Adjusting the down stop helped but then the blade cover hit the base. I removed the blade cover and then it hit the switch. I ground the upper casting around the switch a bit and got more travel but still not enough. Then I added a spacer plate (elevating plate) under the vise and everything works perfect now. Anyway, this is manufacturing issue. Perhaps the machining was slightly off where the wheels mount of perhaps the pivot point for the head was off some (or a combination of both). I have no idea how many saws are effected but I'm guessing there could be a large amount. My saw is less that a year old so I'm guessing all the new saws are effected. I got a quote for laser cutting 20 Elevating Plates out of 1/4" steel and it was a good price. I'm hoping to be able to sell them for less that $30 each (hopefully including shipping in the US). I still need to get a price on the steel but I'll know soon. The QUESTION: How many have this problem and how many would be interested in buying a plate. Let me know if you are interested based on a cost of less than $30. Also watch these videos. They will give you a clear idea of this problem. There are 3 parts. 1) Bade tracking 2) Making an Elevating Plate and 3) A very cool Quick Change table option. Thanks, Mark Links https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLz2A001hMBoQjJrC268cd6IzjxXQYZJEk

Hello all, I'm looking for some help here. I'm interested in a horizontal bandsaw for hobby use. I would like it to be able to cut precisely, but I'm looking more just for general fab not anything that would require super precise cuts. There are several brands and many of the ones referenced do not appear to be made anymore, and prices have definitely gone up. I haven't had much luck sourcing a used version so I might end up getting new. The HF version is about $300, then about $360 for Wen which appears to have a slightly better stand. The Northern Tool Klutch or General International version are about $400 and the Klutch looks similar to Wen while the GI appears similar to HF. Grizzly is probably a bit better, but is also $460, and then Jet is $600. Is it really worth the added expense for a Wen, Grizzly, or Jet? Or would that money be better spent on other items or mods on the HF?