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I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
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I'd use 24hr set epoxy.? Scuff both sides with emery - jv?
I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
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I've done it, but the epoxy I used is no longer available (I got it as a sample about 15 years ago, and recently contacted the company because I couldn't find the product on their web site; turned out that they reformulated it and changed the name).? Scuffing the surfaces is a very good idea.
-Dave
On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 09:56:12 PM PST, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
I'd use 24hr set epoxy.? Scuff both sides with emery - jv?
I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
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3M 2216 2 part epoxy comes in gray or clear
On 3/6/2021 11:20:42 PM, David Pidwerbecki <dpidwerbecki@...> wrote: I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
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You may want to look at high-strength marine epoxy.
Wheeler
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
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-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...> Date: 3/7/21 2:41 AM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I've done it, but the epoxy I used is no longer available (I got it as a sample about 15 years ago, and recently contacted the company because I couldn't find the product on their web site; turned out that they reformulated it and changed the name).? Scuffing the surfaces is a very good idea.
-Dave
On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 09:56:12 PM PST, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
I'd use 24hr set epoxy.? Scuff both sides with emery - jv? I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
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Is your application going to experience a wide temperature swing, or elevated temperature?? Much shear or pull force?? Does it have to be glued -- maybe? screw-down clamps would work?? Does the stainless need to be captured along its entire length, or just the end(s) or middle?
Point being, it would be easier to offer an answer if the application conditions were better defined.
Mark
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??? ??? You can buy measuring tape with adhesive on it .
??? ??? animal
On 3/6/2021 9:20 PM, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
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I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ?
?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
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Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using the 30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1" wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy to replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine, so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
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I ;like the two sided tape idea.
I bought some heavy duty double sided tape from McMaster Carr, to put on some chrome trim on my Jeep.
That was in 2010, and the chrome is still there.
I’m not sure how it holds up to oils, but wind & rocks and rain, it’s passed the test.
You may look on McMaster’s website to see what they have.
?
As far as epoxy, I’d use Devcon 11800. Never used it on stainless, but have used it many times, ?to install mild steel patches on cast iron gearboxes & transmissions, to save the time to remove them
for welding. Never had a failure, but was a royal pain to remove when a ‘real’ repair was done later. If you prep it correctly, you can throw anything at the stuff, including big temperature changes, taking hits, and oil & water. It is expensive however.
?
Other Bill
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
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From: David Pidwerbecki
Sent: Sunday, March 7, 2021 10:25 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
?
Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using
the 30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1" wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy
to replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine, so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider
movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
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If the stainless steel scale is magnetic (non Austenitic
Stainless Steel types) you could put rear earth magnets in your
iron angle piece. I have done this on my drill press so I can put
in a 6" scale on the quill when I need to adjust the stop for
depth drilled.
On 8/03/21 7:24 am, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
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Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will
make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This
was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging
a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and
bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using the
30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the
length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1"
wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might
be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the
scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather
than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy to
replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle
iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start
to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine,
so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table
a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider
movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
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I have a long roll of adhesive backed yellow flexible ruler tape. I'll mail you 2 feet of it if you are ok with quarter inch graduations? Or 3 feet...?? Or 4?
On Sun, Mar 7, 2021, 11:38 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
If the stainless steel scale is magnetic (non Austenitic
Stainless Steel types) you could put rear earth magnets in your
iron angle piece. I have done this on my drill press so I can put
in a 6" scale on the quill when I need to adjust the stop for
depth drilled.
On 8/03/21 7:24 am, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will
make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This
was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging
a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and
bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using the
30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the
length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1"
wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might
be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the
scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather
than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy to
replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle
iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start
to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine,
so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table
a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider
movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
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E6000 is an adhesive that seems to bond anything with anything at ambient temperature conditions. The surfaces need to be clean and a small amount of adhesive is all that is needed. You can find it at Walmart or Home Supply Stores.
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Howdy guys,
I"ve been struggling with this table mod this afternoon.? ?The biggest challenges are:
1.? The hole which houses the original material stop rod is drilled really wonky!? ?I put a 12" drill rod in it and the end of the drill rod was about 1/2" out of alignment towards the saw pivot shaft and about 1" higher than the hole.? ?I don't have any larger drills than 1/2 " and I didn't want to take the entire saw apart to try to drill this straight in my drill press, so I ended up drilling the hole more square, filing it some and jamming some brass shim stock so that the rod is much more straight.? ?I think I can work with it as is now =- but man - it took me like 4 hours to cut the table to size and eventually get the original material stop hole to be good enough to use.
2.? The part of the casting that holds the original material stop is very uneven in the 45 degree angle area.? ?It took a fair bit of filing, grinding, etc. to get it to sit flat all the way across the 5", 45 degree angle casting.
I am going to try to hold the metal scale I purchased at Harbor Freight on the steel angle iron with #4, counter sunk, flat head screws.? ?Thank you so much for the offers of the measuring tape with adhesive, the links, and the suggestions for adhesives.? ?
Dave
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John Vreede
