开云体育

Out of ideas to fix blade alignment

tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15833 I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage.? The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table.? I've checked everything in Mr Pitkin's great PDF to the best of my ability and it all checks out. The blade rides perfectly on the two wheels. After I took the picture below I even removed the upper and lower bearing guides and milled them to give me the ability to rotate them more than they could before.? I'm now probably about half as far off as the picture but removing even more from the guides just seems like a bad idea, like I'm having to resort to extreme measures to correct something that could be fixed in a more conventional adjustment.? What could I be missing here?
Bill Armstrong All Messages By This Member #15834 开云体育 Have you considered moving the table? Other Bill toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 13, 2021, at 7:49 AM, tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote: ?I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage.? The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table.? I've checked everything in Mr Pitkin's great PDF to the best of my ability and it all checks out. The blade rides perfectly on the two wheels. After I took the picture below I even removed the upper and lower bearing guides and milled them to give me the ability to rotate them more than they could before.? I'm now probably about half as far off as the picture but removing even more from the guides just seems like a bad idea, like I'm having to resort to extreme measures to correct something that could be fixed in a more conventional adjustment.? What could I be missing here? <20210406_163013.jpg> 20210406_163013.jpg
tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15836 Don't raise the bridge, lower the river? ;-) I have, actually, but I keep getting stuck on the idea that something is wrong and I should correct it the "proper" way.
November X-Ray All Messages By This Member #15837 The easy answer is to simply square the table to the blade, however have you tried to stagger the blade rollers by adding a washer or other suitable spacer on one side so they ride lower on the blade? Good Luck, NXr On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 04:44:01 PM CDT, tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote: Don't raise the bridge, lower the river? ;-) I have, actually, but I keep getting stuck on the idea that something is wrong and I should correct it the "proper" way.
Bill Armstrong All Messages By This Member #15838 开云体育 What may be wrong, is the two holes in the blade guide, for which the table is bolted to, are not ‘square’ to the blade.? On my grizzly 5 x 6, they are not. They are close, but not quite.? No matter to me, as I seldom use mine in the vertical position with the table I made, and when I do, it’s just for some small parts that I cut freehand anyway.? Other Bill toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 13, 2021, at 2:43 PM, tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote: ?Don't raise the bridge, lower the river? ;-) I have, actually, but I keep getting stuck on the idea that something is wrong and I should correct it the "proper" way.
Terry Coombs All Messages By This Member #15839 On 4/13/2021 4:51 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote: What may be wrong, is the two holes in the blade guide, for which the table is bolted to, are not ‘square’ to the blade. On my grizzly 5 x 6, they are not. They are close, but not quite. No matter to me, as I seldom use mine in the vertical position with the table I made, and when I do, it’s just for some small parts that I cut freehand anyway. Other Bill Mill the surface the table bolts to square with the shank of the blade guide . -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.
John Vreede All Messages By This Member #15840 Tony 99% of table to blade squareness issues are because the guide bar slots in the saw frame have warped out of parallel with the blade travel. Because they are at 40 degrees (for a 115) or 45 deg (128) to the run of the blade, they tip the table on top of the guide assembly at an angle to both the front and sides of the blade Easy fix. Loosen the lower guide handwheel and push the top of the guide assembly out.? If the squareness gets better then you find the right amount of shim to get the table surface square to side of the blade.? If it gets worse, tip the bottom of the guide bar out at the bottom and you'll find squareness gets better and the shim goes in the bottom.? Stick the pieces to the back of the slot with glue or double sided tape (tape is normally about 3thou thick so take that into account).? Since you don't move that guide shim can be cut from? any material? even plastic from packaging.? Measure from the machined top of the lower guide assembly with the table removed, because flimsy sheet metal table often don't bolt flat or are bent when installed.? Rgds - jv toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, 14 Apr 2021, 2:49 am tonydi_499, <tonydi@...> wrote: I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage.? The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table.? I've checked everything in Mr Pitkin's great PDF to the best of my ability and it all checks out. The blade rides perfectly on the two wheels. After I took the picture below I even removed the upper and lower bearing guides and milled them to give me the ability to rotate them more than they could before.? I'm now probably about half as far off as the picture but removing even more from the guides just seems like a bad idea, like I'm having to resort to extreme measures to correct something that could be fixed in a more conventional adjustment.? What could I be missing here? 20210406_163013.jpg
John Vreede All Messages By This Member #15841 Uh oh. Sorry, didn't look at the photo and assumed something other than what you were asking.? Looks like the blade is swivelled too much! I've never seen that before. Sometimes swivelling too little but never too much.? Assuming it is assembled properly with guide bars in the seated in their slots and you've already shaved some off that should be enough adjustment. I'm at a loss to explain why it doesn't work. Continuing to mill off the tongue is about the only thing? thing to do.? There's something not right there though. The only way the blade can be at that angle to two screw holes in the top of the 'guide bracket' (that hold the table) is if the gap between the side guide rollers is too large. The mnfr say the gap should be zero to 0.001" while JP recommends ~0.007", you sure you haven't misread and set it at more than that? Come back to us with what you find - jv toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, 14 Apr 2021, 1:13 pm John Vreede via , <vreededesign=[email protected]> wrote: Tony 99% of table to blade squareness issues are because the guide bar slots in the saw frame have warped out of parallel with the blade travel. Because they are at 40 degrees (for a 115) or 45 deg (128) to the run of the blade, they tip the table on top of the guide assembly at an angle to both the front and sides of the blade Easy fix. Loosen the lower guide handwheel and push the top of the guide assembly out.? If the squareness gets better then you find the right amount of shim to get the table surface square to side of the blade.? If it gets worse, tip the bottom of the guide bar out at the bottom and you'll find squareness gets better and the shim goes in the bottom.? Stick the pieces to the back of the slot with glue or double sided tape (tape is normally about 3thou thick so take that into account).? Since you don't move that guide shim can be cut from? any material? even plastic from packaging.? Measure from the machined top of the lower guide assembly with the table removed, because flimsy sheet metal table often don't bolt flat or are bent when installed.? Rgds - jv On Wed, 14 Apr 2021, 2:49 am tonydi_499, <tonydi@...> wrote: I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage.? The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table.? I've checked everything in Mr Pitkin's great PDF to the best of my ability and it all checks out. The blade rides perfectly on the two wheels. After I took the picture below I even removed the upper and lower bearing guides and milled them to give me the ability to rotate them more than they could before.? I'm now probably about half as far off as the picture but removing even more from the guides just seems like a bad idea, like I'm having to resort to extreme measures to correct something that could be fixed in a more conventional adjustment.? What could I be missing here?
tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15842 I've used the recommendation that the bearings should touch the blade but still be able to rotate by hand.? Another thing I've read says most of these saws have one eccentric and one straight shank bolt.? This saw has two eccentric bolts on the top set of bearings and only one on the bottom. I think if I mill off any more material from the guide and twist it more that I'll run out of adjustment on the eccentrics and will end up heavily loading the inside bearings.
John Vreede All Messages By This Member #15843 Another thought The throat width on an old (115 or 4 1/2") saw is a about 72-73mm. If your throat width is more than that, then the blade is not twisted as much as a normal if it is about that then the table is not aligned like a normal table,? Maybe the screw holes are not in the same place in either the table, or the guide bracket, as a normal saw?? toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, 14 Apr 2021, 5:57 pm tonydi_499, <tonydi@...> wrote: I've used the recommendation that the bearings should touch the blade but still be able to rotate by hand.? Another thing I've read says most of these saws have one eccentric and one straight shank bolt.? This saw has two eccentric bolts on the top set of bearings and only one on the bottom. I think if I mill off any more material from the guide and twist it more that I'll run out of adjustment on the eccentrics and will end up heavily loading the inside bearings.
tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15844 I'll take some measurements tomorrow and include more pics.
tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15845 As best as I can measure, it's about 2 3/4" from the edge of the casting to the blade so that's pretty close to your 72-73mm number.?
John Vreede All Messages By This Member #15846 Then I'm pretty sure that the countersunk holes in the table are not square to the blade.? They're?so close together compared to the width of the table that they don't have to be out much to twist it.? When you remake the table, cut the sawblade?line in from the back so there is no gap in front?of the blade and only 0.020" gap behind the blade - you'll?find it much easier to work with. I have no idea why the factories?used such a wide slot in all their tables, it's dangerous! I use a piece of melamine-faced MDF for?its slippery hard surface (see pic - 1st one lasted me for 15yrs, am only on second one now), but one day I'll get around to making Kerry Galvins setup (see photos section) which would be better for you, since you can change the blade without demounting the table like I have to.? If you hardly ever change?blades, then mine is simpler - jv ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 9:47 AM tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote: As best as I can measure, it's about 2 3/4" from the edge of the casting to the blade so that's pretty close to your 72-73mm number.? MDF vertical table.jpg
John Vreede All Messages By This Member #15847 Went looking for Kerry's photo album, it's #12 on 1st page 'Kerrins saw modification", and see there are also drawings for everything in the files section (messages dated 08/17/20) - jv?
tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15848 I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.? I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
John Vreede All Messages By This Member #15849 If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called m_3130.pdf), that will give you the direction on the blade.? A spring type clothes peg will do but the rule has to be very flat. To mark the table screw positions, get a couple of 1/4"x20 UNC setscrews?(pointed is best but cone point will do) and screw them into the mounting?holes point up and leave protruding 10~20thou. ? Position the table so the edge is parallel to the blade direction shown by the clipped on steel rule Then tap the table over the set screws to leave a centre punch?mark to drill into? In fact, do one hole first.? Mark, drill and countersink and fasten the table lightly on the guide bracket, then line it up with the clipped-on rule, before marking the second hole - jv toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:30 PM tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote: I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.? I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
tonydi_499 All Messages By This Member #15853 Thanks, John, excellent description!? And thanks for all of yours and everyone else's input, much appreciated.

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