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Re: 1952 Willys Pickup

 

In a message dated 10/27/98 4:42:25 PM Central Standard Time,
mjpeterson@... writes:

<<
Greetings,

I have a 1952 Willys pickup that I bought from a rancher in TX about 7
years ago. I use it as a work vehicle for hauling brush, pulling stumps,
etc. I'm in the process of installing an original rear PTO unit. I plan
to use it for digging post-holes on a small piece of property I have West
of Austin, TX. I haven't fixed it up too nicely for fear I'll never use it
if I do. I am looking for a 26-tooth Overdrive unit that I can install on
my truck. I'm looking for a reasonably priced used unit. Also, I'm looking
for the small running boards that fit between the rear fenders and doors.
If I could find someone who had a an original rust free cab I might
consider purchasing it so that I could replace the one I have without
suffering from a large amount of downtime. Does anybody know where I might
be able to track some of these "goodies" down? Thanks for your help. Mark
Peterson. >>


Hi Mark, It's good to find someone a little closer to San Antonio. I haven't
found any donor trucks down here but if I do I'll let you know. I've heard
there is a place in Houston that has some, but I haven't been down there yet
to check them out. I understand where you're coming from about restoring your
truck. I used my truck all last week to haul cars and trucks out of the mud
down here and loaded it full at least 100 times with all kinds of junk. I
never thought about what might get scratched or dented. Looking back I might
have hesitated to take it into some of the places I went. But as it is,
"There's no place my Willys can't go". :-)

Rick S


Re: oil capacity

 

In a message dated 10/27/98 3:21:03 PM Central Standard Time, grover@...
writes:

<< Did you put the oil down the dipstick tube or into the vent on the rocker
cover? It shouldn't matter, since the oil from the rockers drains down to
the pan. If you put it in the rocker cover, I suppose it is possible it
didn't get down to the pan, but I've never seen that happen and have a hard
time imagining what could cause it. All four drain holes would have to be
plugged. Maybe the wrong head gasket? >>

I have seen oil return holes plugged to the point they would not allow oil to
return without a positive pressure applied. This caused the valve cover
gaskets to leak but they had apparently run the engine for quite some time.
This was on a Ford 289 V8. There was so much build up of carbon that when we
took off the valve cover you could not see the rocker arms. They were covered
to the point that it looked like the valve cover was still on. I don't know
if that's what your problem is but I sure hope not.

Rick S


Re: THIS IS NOT A JOKE

 

To all this is a confirmation of the above topic. BEWARE. and please
pass it on.


THIS IS NOT A JOKE

 

This is not about Willys, however I will suffer the wrath of the moderator
to warn a GREAT bunch of people... Steve in Michigan
---------------------- Forwarded by Stephen J Perialas/FSU on 10/27/98
09:24 AM ---------------------------
Interesting warning to pass on!

This can happen at home or at work, everyone should be aware...I've sent
this to all my friends Friday night and I've already had 3 email me and say
that it's already happened to them.

Pass this along to anyone that you can.

I received a telephone call from an individual identifying himself as an
AT&T Service Technician that was running a test on our telephone lines. He
stated that to complete the test we should touch nine (9), zero (0), pound
sign (#) and hang up. Luckily, we were suspicious and refused.

Upon contacting the telephone company we were informed that by pushing 90#
you end up giving the individual that called you access to your telephone
line and allows them to place a long distance telephone call, with the
charge appearing on your telephone bill. We were further informed that this
scam has been originating from many of the local jails/prisons.

I have verified with UCB Telecomm. that this actually happens. Please
beware. This sounds like an Urban Legend - IT IS NOT!!!

I called GTE Security this morning and verified that this is definitely
possible and DO NOT press 90# for ANYONE. It will give them access to your
phone line to make long distances calls ANYWHERE!!!! The GTE Security
department told me to go ahead and share this information with EVERYONE I
KNOW!!!

Could you PLEASE pass this on. If you have mailing lists and/or newsletters
from organizations you are connected with, I encourage you to include this
information.


Re: ford rearend

mitch utsey
 

Jeff Gent wrote:



I asked my father in-law about putting the Mustang II setup in his old
Pontiac. It sounds to me like they kept the Pontiac frame and added
just the control arms, etc which were pulled off a junker. The frame
was boxed in and the crossmember was moved (due to the motor I think).
This sounds to me like it would be easier to do than getting all the
body mounts etc. to work with the Mustang frame.
Well, I have seen both subframe swaps and just the suspension swap you
describe. The subframe swap can save a lot of weight and still add strength to a
street rod, and has the added benefit of allowing the front end height to be
changed according to how the subframes are mated. If you have a frame that you are
happy with, and the skill with fabrication and welding (which you BETTER have for
either of these) then just go for the partial.

--

-Mitch Utsey

I'm just worried about being nekkid
and neck deep in the Nile while some
Egyptian sails by Saying, " Hey,
where's all your stuff?"

-David Mandeville

Did Roman Medics refer to IV's as 4's?

What do little birdies see when they are knocked unconscious?

Think Globally, act tactically


Re: ford rearend

Jeff Gent
 

In a message dated 10/22/98 7:53:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
stoper@... writes:

<< Then I'll need to cut off (sorry
restorers) the front part of my Willys frame and weld on the Mustang frame.
I'll
have to adjust the width of the Mustang frame to fit. >>
I asked my father in-law about putting the Mustang II setup in his old
Pontiac. It sounds to me like they kept the Pontiac frame and added
just the control arms, etc which were pulled off a junker. The frame
was boxed in and the crossmember was moved (due to the motor I think).
This sounds to me like it would be easier to do than getting all the
body mounts etc. to work with the Mustang frame.


--
=======================================================================
Jeff Gent, jeffgent@... FoJ#0019 KC7PVZ
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm not an engineer, but I play one at work
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
'84 V65 Sabre -- Hondaline fairing and Krauser
Hardbags
'62 Willys Wagon -- painfully slow frame up in progress
'82 Honda Civic -- 190K miles and going strong
=======================================================================


Exhaust Manifold

 

I'm in need of an exhaust manifold for a 48CJ2A L134 Does anyone have one to
sell does anyone know of a company that makes a header for this engine That
would be even better thanks,

Tim Lankins
48CJ2A (X2)


CJ/Pickup L134 differences?

Matt Phillimore
 

I have the opportunity to buy a CJ L134 pretty cheap, and from what
I can gather, there's not a whole lot of differences in the
drivetrains. But I don't have one of these engines yet, and the only
thing I am fairly sure about is that the Wagons and trucks used a
longer input shaft and belhousing than that of the CJ's, but the same
engine and transmission. Is there anything else that I should know
about, something I don't know is different, or any potential problems
with putting the engine from the CJ into my truck?

Thanks,
Matt


oil capacity

William Cunningham
 

Greetings,

I have dumped 6 quarts of oil into the F head engine in my 57 FC 150 and
it still is not registering on the dip stick.
The service manual said that the capacity is 4 qt. (with filter change).
there is no visible oil leak on the engine. Some oil is leaking from the
air filter. No oil in the coolant. No smoke.
Could I have some sort of high capacity oil pan?
A short dip stick (easy there! we don't know each other that well yet
;-))
Should I just keep pouring oil in until it shows on the stick?

I have run the engine for a total of 5 minutes in 30 second sessions.
Can anyone recommend some sources for fuelpump/vacume pump rebuild or
replacement as well as electrical wiper conversions for FC 150's?

Willy
57? FC 150


Re: Gimme some advice

Usnick, Mark
 

Hiya Merl-

My $0.02:

Sounds like a decent deal. I'm pretty sure that there weren't any
factory roll bars or tops in the 50's. My '56 CJ5 had a hard top
when I bought it (Koenig aftermarket). Still need to make a
roll bar. I paid $2,000 for my good running CJ5 without the mods
this one has, with a nice, clean body.

Buying a second jeep. Man, that's a toughie.

For what it's worth, a few months ago, I came across a cherry
'49 CJ3A that I could buy for $1800, and I had difficulty making
a decision - it was such a good deal - who could turn it down???

In the end, I passed, and am now glad that I did. I already
have more things to keep me busy than I have time for. For
me, I don't think that two jeeps would be twice the fun of
one - instead, it'd just be twice the money, twice the time,
twice the garage/driveway space and twice the guilt (for not
completing all the work they deserve).

The world is full of Todd Paisley's that can juggle multiple
restores at once, but I am not one of them.

On the other hand, if you want to annoy the neighbors,
another piece of crap jeep in the driveway and another junker
parts jeep/body in the back yard would be a good thing! 8-)

I welcome you to totally disregard my advice. I just wanted
to let you know that you won't necessarily be the first guy
to turn down a "great deal on an old jeep", and be glad he did!

LotsaLuck!

Mark

ps: Since I've already consumed some bandwidth with this
note, I'll throw in one more comment: Us guys sure owe a
lot of thanks to our better halfs for allowing us to even consider
something like this! When I found that 3A and went to look at
it with my wife, she pretended to be interested, and ever so
nicely said that if I want it, I should buy it! What a sweetheart!

If tells me that she wants to buy yet another horse (that's her
thing), I'm not sure I could do such a convincing job of acting
excited!

-----Original Message-----
From: Merl [SMTP:hollowel@...]
Sent: Monday, October 26, 1998 2:46 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Cc: hollowel@...
Subject: [WT] Gimme some advice

From: Merl <hollowel@...>

I've found what looks like a decent price on an old Jeep and I'd like
a little advice. Its a 1953 M38A1 with all the modern conveniences,
all
the upgrades were installed about 20 years ago...

- 231 V6, heavy flywheel, new when installed. Runs good, manual
choke,
unknown actual miles, broken speedometer reads 80K.
- New battery, attached to firewall under the hood
- Muffler on each side under rocker panels, exits in front of rear
wheels.
- Commando radiator
- 10" brakes all around, new when installed, Commando type. Original
type master cylinder.
- foot operated Commando emergency brake, rear wheels
- Saginaw steering
- Tilt wheel (with turn signals), Oldsmobile
- Rancho overdrive (rear wheels only)
- T90 trans and Spicer-18 xfer case recently "gone through" by the
owner (who should know what he's doing).
- Original D25 front and D44 rear diffs. Rebuilt a few years ago.
- Factory roll-bar (CJ-5)
- Factory steel hard top (CJ-5?) with lockable doors and crank up/down
windows. The The top seems to be in good shape, very little
rust.
- No obvious problems with rust on the windshield frame.
- Rear seat, seat belts all around. All seats need new apolstry.
- 12 volt
- heater, works
- radio, doesn't work
- dual vacuum wipers (both work)
- Fuses! <g>
- decent off-road tires on white wagon spoke wheels, tires were
something like P23575R15 (?)
- spare tire, on the back
- Frame looks good, no obvious problems there.
- battery holder in the cowl has been cut out from underneath to
make room for the heater and radio
- Everything seems to work, should be able to pass state safety
inspection with no work necessary.

I drove the thing around the 1 acre lot, and I *love* that saginaw
steering (first Jeep I've driven with it). No detectable slop in
the steering. Plenty of power in that V6. Seems to run at about
200 degrees (is that normal?), I let it idle for a long time sitting
still and it got up to about 205 or 210 but never hotter. Seemed
to stop *very* well, couldn't get up fast enough to try out the
overdrive. The only things I didn't like were that the clutch seemed
to have a hair trigger (I'd imagine it could be adjusted), the
gas pedal might give me a serious cramp because its so close, and the
rear drive line is REALLY short due to that overdrive (I'm guessing
maybe a foot from u-joint to u-joint).

The bad part is...the tub and right front fender are shot. It would
hold together as is, but the body is really in such bad shape its not
even worth messing with. The owner does have a good M38A1 body that
he'll throw in if I give him the full price that he's asking. If it
wasn't for that I'd shy away from this deal, but the "free" body makes
it real appealing.

Whats he asking? $2450 with the hard top, $2000 without.

Mechanically I really like this Jeep. How hard is it to replace a
body? Anybody know anything about Rancho overdrives? Anything I
should know about M38A1s before I take the plunge and start a second
ongoing project? Any good web sites with comparable projects I should
review? Any advice is appreciated.

--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****

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==========================================================
WillysTech

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Gimme some advice

Merl
 

I've found what looks like a decent price on an old Jeep and I'd like
a little advice. Its a 1953 M38A1 with all the modern conveniences, all
the upgrades were installed about 20 years ago...

- 231 V6, heavy flywheel, new when installed. Runs good, manual choke,
unknown actual miles, broken speedometer reads 80K.
- New battery, attached to firewall under the hood
- Muffler on each side under rocker panels, exits in front of rear wheels.
- Commando radiator
- 10" brakes all around, new when installed, Commando type. Original
type master cylinder.
- foot operated Commando emergency brake, rear wheels
- Saginaw steering
- Tilt wheel (with turn signals), Oldsmobile
- Rancho overdrive (rear wheels only)
- T90 trans and Spicer-18 xfer case recently "gone through" by the
owner (who should know what he's doing).
- Original D25 front and D44 rear diffs. Rebuilt a few years ago.
- Factory roll-bar (CJ-5)
- Factory steel hard top (CJ-5?) with lockable doors and crank up/down
windows. The The top seems to be in good shape, very little
rust.
- No obvious problems with rust on the windshield frame.
- Rear seat, seat belts all around. All seats need new apolstry.
- 12 volt
- heater, works
- radio, doesn't work
- dual vacuum wipers (both work)
- Fuses! <g>
- decent off-road tires on white wagon spoke wheels, tires were
something like P23575R15 (?)
- spare tire, on the back
- Frame looks good, no obvious problems there.
- battery holder in the cowl has been cut out from underneath to
make room for the heater and radio
- Everything seems to work, should be able to pass state safety
inspection with no work necessary.

I drove the thing around the 1 acre lot, and I *love* that saginaw
steering (first Jeep I've driven with it). No detectable slop in
the steering. Plenty of power in that V6. Seems to run at about
200 degrees (is that normal?), I let it idle for a long time sitting
still and it got up to about 205 or 210 but never hotter. Seemed
to stop *very* well, couldn't get up fast enough to try out the
overdrive. The only things I didn't like were that the clutch seemed
to have a hair trigger (I'd imagine it could be adjusted), the
gas pedal might give me a serious cramp because its so close, and the
rear drive line is REALLY short due to that overdrive (I'm guessing
maybe a foot from u-joint to u-joint).

The bad part is...the tub and right front fender are shot. It would
hold together as is, but the body is really in such bad shape its not
even worth messing with. The owner does have a good M38A1 body that
he'll throw in if I give him the full price that he's asking. If it
wasn't for that I'd shy away from this deal, but the "free" body makes
it real appealing.

Whats he asking? $2450 with the hard top, $2000 without.

Mechanically I really like this Jeep. How hard is it to replace a
body? Anybody know anything about Rancho overdrives? Anything I
should know about M38A1s before I take the plunge and start a second
ongoing project? Any good web sites with comparable projects I should
review? Any advice is appreciated.

--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****


Re: throttle cable

Richard Grover
 

Try some of the Willys specialty places, like Walck's, Willys Mpls,
Kaiser-Willys, etc. Addresses and phone numbers are on my web page.

Rick G.
www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys

PS. Notice I changed the subject line. I don't want to play the ogre, but an
accurate subject line helps people use the list. Please...

-----Original Message-----
From: JGMOSER74@... [mailto:JGMOSER74@...]
Sent: Monday, October 26, 1998 10:27 AM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WT] Re: Subject line change


From: JGMOSER74@...

Does anyone know where I can order/get throttle linkage for my '62 pu. I
have
called around here in Dallas and had no luck. Would a JC whitney have
something like that?

stumped
Jason

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WillysTech

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Re: Welcome to [email protected]

 

Thanks for the info. Would you happen to know the 4X4 Power phone # ? I
can't find them on the internet and I'd love to get a hold of that Dec.
back issue. Thanks again.
Brad




TLankins@... on 10/23/98 09:32:02 AM

Please respond to WillysTech@...

To: WillysTech@...
cc: (bcc: Brad Ethington/NWL Corp)
Subject: [WillysTech] Re: Welcome to WillysTech@...




From: TLankins@...
a friend of mine did his wagon with an eighties era jeep motor (256ci I
believe and it wasn't to bad a project and runs and wheels beautiful . You
might also check out Dec.4x4 power magazine it has a beautiful '52 wagon
(good source for ideas)
T Lankins
'48 CJ2A(awful lot of these out there aint it great)
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==========================================================
WillysTech

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Re: Subject line change

 

Jason,
You could try giving the Jeepsterman (Morris Ratner) a call @ 732 458 3966.
He has almost everything imaginable.
Good luck
Brad




JGMOSER74@... on 10/26/98 12:27:11 PM

Please respond to WillysTech@...

To: WillysTech@...
cc: (bcc: Brad Ethington/NWL Corp)
Subject: [WT] Re: Subject line change




From: JGMOSER74@...
Does anyone know where I can order/get throttle linkage for my '62 pu. I
have
called around here in Dallas and had no luck. Would a JC whitney have
something like that?
stumped
Jason
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription
to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and
select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
==========================================================
WillysTech

Share a favorite Bookmark with other subscribers...
Go to and access the User Center
==========================================================


Subject line change

Richard Grover
 

You'll notice that the subject line of all notes on WillysTech recently
changed to be prefaced with [WT] instead of [WillysTech]. I hope this change
doesn't wreck to much havoc with anyone's filters. The change was made to
shorten the subject line to give more space for descriptive subjects. Please
give a good subject so others can tell what your note is about. That is
particularly important as the traffic increases. If the discussion changes
as reply follows reply, please change the subject line.

Another reminder:

Notes about any subject related to Willys Jeeps are welcome. It is easy to
let witty repartee wander to other topics. Please refrain from doing so on
the list, not that we need to totally lack humor on the list, but notes that
contain no information about Willys, just the humor are outside the intent
of the list. Please take verbal fencing, whether in fun or anger, off the
list.

Rick G.
www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys

PS. M.V. Percival, of Herb Tea Farm and creator of WillysTech, asked me to
monitor the list while he is on vacation. When he returns, he'll see this
note and know I did my part to keep the list useful to us all.


Re: Spare rack

 

In a message dated 10/18/98, 9:22:27 AM, WillysTech@... writes:
<<
Ok, I could use some measurements, if anyone is willing to make a
couple quick ones. I'm trying to figure out if the FC ones will work.
NOthing too detailed is needed quite yet. I really just need to know
how far out from the bed it is to the mounting surface.

Matt, Sorry it took me so long to reply but I've been a little busy. I
measured the distance from the bed to the outside edge of the tire carrier and
it was 8 3/4". If your going to make a tire carrier, make sure that it has
the proper clearance for whatever tires and rims you are running. My truck is
running 235/75R15s and the tire clears ok but much larger and I would be
rubbing on the fender and bed rail. I believe rim specification (backspacing)
would be just as critical as the tire size. Sometime in the past the previous
owner moved the tire carrier forward 1 1/2" and down 1 1/4". I think he did
this so he would have better visibility over the tire through the side-view
mirror. If you need more specific measurement let me know. I was thinking an
old brake drum would be a good start for a homemade tire carrier.

Rick S.

PS. I use the tire carrier as a storage space for some tow cables. Coiled up
they fit over the carrier and the tire holds them in place.


Moab

 

Just a note to any interested parties .. I took my basically stock(It has a
2/12 inch lift e/31-10.50/15 BFGoodrich Allterrain tires )CJ2A to Moab this
weekend and ran the Golden Spike trail with her and she handled every obstacle
except the Double Whammy(the wheelbase is just to perfect to turtle and I'm
not willing thank you ) with no problem whatsoever .. I knew Willys were the
best thing goin and now so does the rest of the group thanks
Tim Lankins
48CJ2A


Re: Subject line change

 

Does anyone know where I can order/get throttle linkage for my '62 pu. I have
called around here in Dallas and had no luck. Would a JC whitney have
something like that?

stumped
Jason


Re: Wait a minute now!

Dave and Robin Samuelson
 

mitch utsey wrote:
Long distance, the next best thing to being there.......reach out and "touch"

someone...My Garand has a max effective range, 1200 yards, but I'm only good to
about 500 with Iron sights.
Mitch- well, you aren't practicing enough. Plus, most everyone has that as their max
range with irons. Add a scope and a bipod and you'll hit to a klick, easy.


Re: L6-226 Engine For Sale

Dave and Robin Samuelson
 

Ronald L. Cook wrote:
Dave--Too many miles between us to make engine trades feasable, I think.

I do have some contacts in the Chandler, AZ area though. I would need
to know the condition of the engine, and your price to determine if we
should pursue this any further. One of us is to darned far away. In a
couple of months it will be me, won't it.--Ron
Well, it needs a ring job to the best of my knowledge, and other than that
it's great. I have no use for it other that selling it for a motor that
better suits my needs, and a 4 banger doesn't cut it. The motor is in Tempe,
right up the street from Chandler. If you want a buddy to look at it for you
and make an offer, that's fine. However, it's ready to come out and isn't
able to be run at this time. If you want it, make me an offer I can't
refuse, and I'll work out the details later on how to get it to you, or have
your buddy pick it up and hang on to it until you cna pick it up. I need the
space for a bigger powerplant!
Sammy