Exhaust manifold on the fhead 4
In the last message I mentioned the excellent phone support from Rustoleum concerning their high temperature paint, where they wanted to make a paint job work, but causing a domestic issue with use of the home oven for car work. was not recommended.
I "got to looking" at the manifold, and noticed that the surfaces that faces the engine,? where the gaskets cover up the sins, were pretty corroded/rusted, and on cyl #4 the manifold had eroded away enough to make the gasket surfaces quite narrow, with pitted
areas elsewhere.?? A friend suggested taping sandpaper to the workbench and going at it to renew the surface.? YouTube provided someone that used 60 grit 3M wet/dry? paper,? (amazed to find it at True Value)? 3 pieces, attached with two sided tape top and
bottom to a flat surface for the work.? Sanded wet; I wore out three sheets, bought some more paper, sanded another hour,? and called it good.? My expert adviser said I needed to be within .020" of an inch compared to flat; I measured .010".? I think I sanded
off over 1/8".? #4 is now nearly as wide as original, mostly it looks like a new surface, pits and rust gone,? a big improvement.?? I spent a few minutes today sanding out the scratches with 220 grit paper.
It is now possible to get new manifolds for this engine, but who knows how good they are, etc.?
Good project for arm exercise on a very rainy day.?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Fhead work in progress
Dan, I salute you for doing your best to bring the heart of your old Willys back to life. ? ?Of course, as Donald Rumsfeld pointed out all those years ago, in any endeavour there are “Known knowns", and “Known unknowns". ?The big problem can arise with “Unknown unknowns”. ?Let’s all hope this turns out well for you!
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On Apr 25, 2024, at 2:52?PM, Dan Mulholland <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
So, not remembering what I shared before,? so going to repeat some.? Have a bad case of scope creep.? The original desire was to fix a leaky rear seal situation.?? The crankshaft was rusted/corroded on the surface the rear main seal rides, so crankshaft removal was required.? The engine ran fine otherwise.
Disassembly of the engine, with considerable help from friend #1, raised a concern that the connecting rods did not match up, with the #3 weighing more than the other three; he suggested taking the engine to a machine shop, so this, or any other problems, could be identified. and the crankshaft checked out.?? Friend #2 said- now,? how long has the engine run just fine with the connecting rod mismatch?? (decades).
The "examination" revealed cracks in the block that the machine shop thought beyond where they would want to go with a "locknstich"? repair, because the cracks- cylinders 2 and 3- extended from the hardened exhaust valve seats on to the head surface- repairable-and also under the valve seat and down under the valve- where the exhaust heads to the manifold- about an inch, which they did not want to tackle with locknstich.? I think I sent a picture of this out.?? I did contact Locknstich, and they said this was a common repair that they would do, shipping the block to them and so on.? Instead, search for another block began, saga explained previously,? wound up with one that would work.
So, the work with the new block continues- the old block went to the machine shop mid December, I think.?
-The machine shop had a replacement, correct, connecting rod in their "piles of old stuff". -The crankshaft (from the original engine) cleaned up nicely with polishing only,? diameters good, including for the new rear seal. -They ordered replacement exhaust valves, twice, both wrong, decided to use the best 4 from the two blocks. -In the replacement block, the lifters were no longer "flat tappet" but "cupped tappet", (in the replacement block)- they ship these out for resurfacing to their camshaft redoing company- too far gone to redo, but the ones from the original engine were able to be re ground flat. -camshaft redone -Elected to go with new pistons (what's another $80 to the Chinese). -Block cleaned up at "40 over".
Having them resurface the flywheel; replacing the clutch,? pressure plate, throwout bearing.
They do test for leaks on the rear seal:? Turn the engine on end, putting oil on the seal, leave it overnight and look for oil in the wrong place in the morning.? After assembly, they will make sure compression is good, and also that the effort to turn the engine over is correct.? They will loan me a setup to pre oil the engine, a pressure tank that forces oil through the oil pressure guage sensor "hole".?? They will sell me some? gawdawfully expensive break in oil.
Assuming the leaks are greatly reduced, will use gold plated "High Zddp" oil.??
In the "harmonywithspouse" department, I decided to clean up the exhaust manifold, which was fun, using the electrolysis method, washing soda, plastic tube, steel anode,? battery charger, etc.? Worked pretty well, bought high temperature, ceramic Rustoleum spray paint.?? Then I read the directions- heat to 200 degrees, allow to cool, repeat at 400 and 600 degrees.? Now, by waiting until the oven owner is out of town, it would be possible to do 200 and 400 degrees, 600, how to do that?? I confessed about the plan;? the response was "as predicted".
I called Rustoleum technical support.
No recording? saying call volumes are high, please wait English speaker answered the phone, with no queue They explained that they didn't want me to bake the manifold in the oven, (not sure if this is a technical issue or that they don't want to cause relationship problems) and emailed me an "on the engine" procedure.? Which will differ from the break in procedure-maybe will break in with another manifold,? then switch.
Will be whining and complaining when the costa are added up.?
Dan
--?Dan53 2wd WagonEugene, OR
|
So, not remembering what I shared before,? so going to repeat some.? Have a bad case of scope creep.? The original desire was to fix a leaky rear seal situation.?? The crankshaft was rusted/corroded on the surface the rear main seal rides, so crankshaft removal
was required.? The engine ran fine otherwise.
Disassembly of the engine, with considerable help from friend #1, raised a concern that the connecting rods did not match up, with the #3 weighing more than the other three; he suggested taking the engine to a machine shop, so this, or any other problems, could
be identified. and the crankshaft checked out.?? Friend #2 said- now,? how long has the engine run just fine with the connecting rod mismatch?? (decades).
The "examination" revealed cracks in the block that the machine shop thought beyond where they would want to go with a "locknstich"? repair, because the cracks- cylinders 2 and 3- extended from the hardened exhaust valve seats on to the head surface- repairable-and
also under the valve seat and down under the valve- where the exhaust heads to the manifold- about an inch, which they did not want to tackle with locknstich.? I think I sent a picture of this out.?? I did contact Locknstich, and they said this was a common
repair that they would do, shipping the block to them and so on.? Instead, search for another block began, saga explained previously,? wound up with one that would work.
So, the work with the new block continues- the old block went to the machine shop mid December, I think.?
-The machine shop had a replacement, correct, connecting rod in their "piles of old stuff".
-The crankshaft (from the original engine) cleaned up nicely with polishing only,? diameters good, including for the new rear seal.
-They ordered replacement exhaust valves, twice, both wrong, decided to use the best 4 from the two blocks.
-In the replacement block, the lifters were no longer "flat tappet" but "cupped tappet", (in the replacement block)- they ship these out for resurfacing to their camshaft redoing company- too far gone to redo, but the ones from the original engine were able
to be re ground flat.
-camshaft redone
-Elected to go with new pistons (what's another $80 to the Chinese).
-Block cleaned up at "40 over".
Having them resurface the flywheel; replacing the clutch,? pressure plate, throwout bearing.
They do test for leaks on the rear seal:? Turn the engine on end, putting oil on the seal, leave it overnight and look for oil in the wrong place in the morning.? After assembly, they will make sure compression is good, and also that the effort to turn the
engine over is correct.? They will loan me a setup to pre oil the engine, a pressure tank that forces oil through the oil pressure guage sensor "hole".?? They will sell me some? gawdawfully expensive break in oil.
Assuming the leaks are greatly reduced, will use gold plated "High Zddp" oil.??
In the "harmonywithspouse" department, I decided to clean up the exhaust manifold, which was fun, using the electrolysis method, washing soda, plastic tube, steel anode,? battery charger, etc.? Worked pretty well, bought high temperature, ceramic Rustoleum
spray paint.?? Then I read the directions- heat to 200 degrees, allow to cool, repeat at 400 and 600 degrees.? Now, by waiting until the oven owner is out of town, it would be possible to do 200 and 400 degrees, 600, how to do that?? I confessed about the
plan;? the response was "as predicted".
I called Rustoleum technical support.
-
No recording? saying call volumes are high, please wait
-
English speaker answered the phone, with no queue
-
They explained that they didn't want me to bake the manifold in the oven, (not sure if this is a technical issue or that they don't want to cause relationship problems) and emailed me an "on the engine" procedure.? Which will differ from the break in procedure-maybe
will break in with another manifold,? then switch.
Will be whining and complaining when the costa are added up.?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Not seeing any other answers, here's mine- if you were here in Eugene, OR, there would be a choice of three auto electric shops you could choose from.? I am guessing that there are (still) similar firms in other towns.? That's where I'd go.? On the Internet,
there are firms that provide these services, like this one:
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Our starter and alternator rebuild shop specializes in rebuilding automotive, farm, fleet, industrial, and marine alternators, starters, generators & more.
kaestnerauto.com
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A local firm- no shipping costs, and someone easy to reach if there are questions or concerns.??
Dan
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I have a 1957 station wagon converted to 12v. I would like to keep the old stater that went toes up. Any recommendations where I can send it for rebuild?
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
I have a 1957 station wagon converted to 12v. I would like to keep the old stater that went toes up. Any recommendations where I can send it for rebuild?
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Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
Update, I got the new seal and I can turn the engine over by hand with the plugs out with 40 lbs pressure but my starter will not turn the motor over. I think my next move is a gear reduction from kaiser willys.
Ok I think I have it. It's the rear seal took it out and put the race in with out one and it turned freely. Am I safe to get one from KW as ebay ones are too thick and so is a rope.?
Yes I've done that and as I add each part it gets stiffer. The main issue is the valves and cam. Today I'm going to pull the head and remove an exhaust valve and intake vsl e to see if the machinest? reversed the springs.
On Mon, Mar 18, 2024, 1:15?PM John Kohnen < jkohnen@...> wrote: The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing
gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and
need to be installed the right way around. Three main bearings? It'd be
hard to mess up that up... <g> But the same is true for the big end
bearings on the rods. A lot easier to mess up.
Did you liberally lubricate all all the bearings, with motor oil or
assembly lube, when you installed them? Likewise the pistons and
cylinder bores.
A properly assembled engine should turn over only a little stiffly at
first. Easily turned with a standard length 1/2 ratchet.
Try disconnecting everything from the crankshaft and make sure it turns
easily. Then connect one thing to the crank and see what happens, then
one more, and so on...
Good luck!
On 3/17/2024 7:47 PM, Jeepman Dan wrote:
> ...
> One is that
> the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or
> timing gear are added,...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. (Edward Abbey)
|
Well if you had been a year earlier I had a decent one that I tried to sell for years but I made it into a work bench last winter.
On Wed, Mar 20, 2024, 2:56?PM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: That very good news Gavin!?
Let's hope you can find a "new" tailgate... I had mine repaired with new lower sheet metal and stainless steel hinge.? Repairing the tailgate bottom wasn't difficult compared to restoring the edge of the cargo area.
Pavel up North.
|
That very good news Gavin!?
Let's hope you can find a "new" tailgate... I had mine repaired with new lower sheet metal and stainless steel hinge.? Repairing the tailgate bottom wasn't difficult compared to restoring the edge of the cargo area.
Pavel up North.
|
After a 26-year nap, my grandfather's 62 Willys Wagon fired and ran this past weekend. We are still working on the brakes, permanent fuel setup, and getting it to idle.
I am looking for a good used tailgate and 16" rims in the Virginia/TN area.?
Thank you,
Gavin
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
Jay,
That's great news.?
It is very likely that KW sells the Best seals as part #800099, and they will probably work well, provided that they are recent stock. The KW parts folks do not want to identify the manufacturer of their rear seals via catalog or email, but may tell you over
the phone.
Details:
Here are some of the measurements for the diameter of the rear sealing surface:
CJ2 page, original spec:????????????2.345"
original spec per Willys manual:?????2.331-2.3341"
Post polish and/or grind:
Metal shaper:??????Should be 2.310" for the Best seal, current one, or 2.335" for the incorrectly made ones- (you may have received one of these via Ebay).? He shows that the seal, when held by hand around the crankshaft, should have a small gap, a gap that
gets compressed when installed.? The ones that were too big had no gap- you could check this out. The "Best" seals- poor guy was named "Best"- (suppose it's better than some other possibilities), now work well (at 2.310") according to Metalshaper.? They cost
more- the firm specializes in US made seals for vintage cars.? MetalShaper's? opinion- other seals are a gamble in terms of quality and fit- as you may have learned through "experience".?
Assn of rebuilders, 2002 standard:? 2.3202"-2.3120"?`
My crankshaft,? sitting at the machinists, is within the assn of rebuilders numbers, hope that's close enough for the Best seal.??
t would be useful, perhaps reassuring, to know what diameter you're working with.?? The machine shop undoubtedly measured.
The rope seal should also work, of course.? I've watched a few Youtube? sessions that cover how to put them in.? The Australian one is hilarious in terms of the accent in which the presenter utters nearly endless curses.?
Dan
?
original spec:????
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Show quoted text
Ok I think I have it. It's the rear seal took it out and put the race in with out one and it turned freely. Am I safe to get one from KW as ebay ones are too thick and so is a rope.?
Yes I've done that and as I add each part it gets stiffer. The main issue is the valves and cam. Today I'm going to pull the head and remove an exhaust valve and intake vsl e to see if the machinest? reversed the springs.
On Mon, Mar 18, 2024, 1:15?PM John Kohnen < jkohnen@...> wrote:
The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing
gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and
need to be installed the right way around. Three main bearings? It'd be
hard to mess up that up... <g> But the same is true for the big end
bearings on the rods. A lot easier to mess up.
Did you liberally lubricate all all the bearings, with motor oil or
assembly lube, when you installed them? Likewise the pistons and
cylinder bores.
A properly assembled engine should turn over only a little stiffly at
first. Easily turned with a standard length 1/2 ratchet.
Try disconnecting everything from the crankshaft and make sure it turns
easily. Then connect one thing to the crank and see what happens, then
one more, and so on...
Good luck!
On 3/17/2024 7:47 PM, Jeepman Dan wrote:
> ...
> One is that
> the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or
> timing gear are added,...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. (Edward Abbey)
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
Ok I think I have it. It's the rear seal took it out and put the race in with out one and it turned freely. Am I safe to get one from KW as ebay ones are too thick and so is a rope.?
Yes I've done that and as I add each part it gets stiffer. The main issue is the valves and cam. Today I'm going to pull the head and remove an exhaust valve and intake vsl e to see if the machinest? reversed the springs.
On Mon, Mar 18, 2024, 1:15?PM John Kohnen < jkohnen@...> wrote: The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing
gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and
need to be installed the right way around. Three main bearings? It'd be
hard to mess up that up... <g> But the same is true for the big end
bearings on the rods. A lot easier to mess up.
Did you liberally lubricate all all the bearings, with motor oil or
assembly lube, when you installed them? Likewise the pistons and
cylinder bores.
A properly assembled engine should turn over only a little stiffly at
first. Easily turned with a standard length 1/2 ratchet.
Try disconnecting everything from the crankshaft and make sure it turns
easily. Then connect one thing to the crank and see what happens, then
one more, and so on...
Good luck!
On 3/17/2024 7:47 PM, Jeepman Dan wrote:
> ...
> One is that
> the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or
> timing gear are added,...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. (Edward Abbey)
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
Yes I've done that and as I add each part it gets stiffer. The main issue is the valves and cam. Today I'm going to pull the head and remove an exhaust valve and intake vsl e to see if the machinest? reversed the springs.
On Mon, Mar 18, 2024, 1:15?PM John Kohnen < jkohnen@...> wrote: The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing
gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and
need to be installed the right way around. Three main bearings? It'd be
hard to mess up that up... <g> But the same is true for the big end
bearings on the rods. A lot easier to mess up.
Did you liberally lubricate all all the bearings, with motor oil or
assembly lube, when you installed them? Likewise the pistons and
cylinder bores.
A properly assembled engine should turn over only a little stiffly at
first. Easily turned with a standard length 1/2 ratchet.
Try disconnecting everything from the crankshaft and make sure it turns
easily. Then connect one thing to the crank and see what happens, then
one more, and so on...
Good luck!
On 3/17/2024 7:47 PM, Jeepman Dan wrote:
> ...
> One is that
> the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or
> timing gear are added,...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. (Edward Abbey)
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and need to be installed the right way around. Three main bearings? It'd be hard to mess up that up... <g> But the same is true for the big end bearings on the rods. A lot easier to mess up.
Did you liberally lubricate all all the bearings, with motor oil or assembly lube, when you installed them? Likewise the pistons and cylinder bores.
A properly assembled engine should turn over only a little stiffly at first. Easily turned with a standard length 1/2 ratchet.
Try disconnecting everything from the crankshaft and make sure it turns easily. Then connect one thing to the crank and see what happens, then one more, and so on...
Good luck!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 3/17/2024 7:47 PM, Jeepman Dan wrote: ...
One is that the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or timing gear are added,...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. (Edward Abbey)
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
Jay,
Beyond my expertise, but here goes.? If you watch the Metalshaper videos, there are some things shown that may provide ideas.? One is that the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or timing gear are added, if I remember correctly.?
If it doesn't, then you could have been bit by the error by Best seals, where the neoprene seals were too large for a time. Did you do OK with setting the end play on the crankshaft?? Of course, you tried a rope seal, too, probably no problem there. Did you
rotate the crankshaft by hand, if so, did it turn easily???
The valve train components- camshaft was presumably installed by the machine shop, along with the exhaust valves, correct?? I don't know how this could be screwed up,? I'm sure I could find a way.? The only thing I know about pistons is it is possible to put
them in backwards, but I don't think that would cause this problem.
An error I made once concerned installation of the oil pump, which was binding due to a problem with the gasket on the bottom.? You could remove the oil pump and see if anything changes, though you may well have rotated it to make sure it was free before it
was installed.?? Other external stuff, generator, fuel pump, water pump, could be checked/removed to test as well.
Given how frustrated you must be, it may be time to take it back to the machine shop and have them redo your assembly, write the check and (hopefully) solve the problem.? Make them promise not to attach a bumper sticker to your Willys that says "I tried to
do it myself by was bailed out by...."
Dan
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The machine shop only bored out the cylinders 30 over, did valves and polished cam and crank. He assembled the valves in the head but that was it. I put it back together. I've tried 2 sets of crank bearings and 2 cam shaft bearings. 2 neoprene
seals and one rope seal. Pistons and rings are new and seem to be fine. When I put it all together with lubrication and correct torque it will not turn with less than 50 pounds starter will not move it. Tried original willys , Toyota and gear reduction.?
Jay,
Hope you will get a better answer than this.? If you look at your Kaiser Willys catalog, page 248, know you've been there- look at the pictures for line 18/19-the exhaust valves for both the flathead and the Fhead, and compare that to the picture 20/21, for
the Fhead intake valves, and notice that they differ in diameter.? My F head is at the machine shop, so I can't look, but this seems right.? I'm sure Kaiser could confirm.? Also, it is logical that there would be more resistance with the intake valves engaged.?
I doubt this is your problem.
To review, the problem is that the engine, when attempting to start after the overhaul, won't turn over when you use the starter, correct?? Spark plugs in?? Does it move at all??
Did the machine shop assemble the lower engine components, camshaft, crankshaft, pistons,? connecting rods?
Dan
So an update to my F134 having issues with needing too much pressure to turn it over. I pulled the engine again, and through extensive tril and error found that I can turn it over by hand wit 38 ftlbs if the rocker arm is removed and it needs
over 40 to 45 with it installed and yes the valve lady is correct. The machines that did the bore and polish reassembled the head. Is it possible the springs were reversed. If so how can you tell the difference? I know kaiser willys sell intake and exhaust
springs for this engine so I know they differ.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
The machine shop only bored out the cylinders 30 over, did valves and polished cam and crank. He assembled the valves in the head but that was it. I put it back together. I've tried 2 sets of crank bearings and 2 cam shaft bearings. 2 neoprene seals and one rope seal. Pistons and rings are new and seem to be fine. When I put it all together with lubrication and correct torque it will not turn with less than 50 pounds starter will not move it. Tried original willys , Toyota and gear reduction.?
Jay,
Hope you will get a better answer than this.? If you look at your Kaiser Willys catalog, page 248, know you've been there- look at the pictures for line 18/19-the exhaust valves for both the flathead and the Fhead, and compare that to the picture 20/21, for
the Fhead intake valves, and notice that they differ in diameter.? My F head is at the machine shop, so I can't look, but this seems right.? I'm sure Kaiser could confirm.? Also, it is logical that there would be more resistance with the intake valves engaged.?
I doubt this is your problem.
To review, the problem is that the engine, when attempting to start after the overhaul, won't turn over when you use the starter, correct?? Spark plugs in?? Does it move at all??
Did the machine shop assemble the lower engine components, camshaft, crankshaft, pistons,? connecting rods?
Dan
So an update to my F134 having issues with needing too much pressure to turn it over. I pulled the engine again, and through extensive tril and error found that I can turn it over by hand wit 38 ftlbs if the rocker arm is removed and it needs
over 40 to 45 with it installed and yes the valve lady is correct. The machines that did the bore and polish reassembled the head. Is it possible the springs were reversed. If so how can you tell the difference? I know kaiser willys sell intake and exhaust
springs for this engine so I know they differ.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
Jay,
Hope you will get a better answer than this.? If you look at your Kaiser Willys catalog, page 248, know you've been there- look at the pictures for line 18/19-the exhaust valves for both the flathead and the Fhead, and compare that to the picture 20/21, for
the Fhead intake valves, and notice that they differ in diameter.? My F head is at the machine shop, so I can't look, but this seems right.? I'm sure Kaiser could confirm.? Also, it is logical that there would be more resistance with the intake valves engaged.?
I doubt this is your problem.
To review, the problem is that the engine, when attempting to start after the overhaul, won't turn over when you use the starter, correct?? Spark plugs in?? Does it move at all??
Did the machine shop assemble the lower engine components, camshaft, crankshaft, pistons,? connecting rods?
Dan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So an update to my F134 having issues with needing too much pressure to turn it over. I pulled the engine again, and through extensive tril and error found that I can turn it over by hand wit 38 ftlbs if the rocker arm is removed and it needs
over 40 to 45 with it installed and yes the valve lady is correct. The machines that did the bore and polish reassembled the head. Is it possible the springs were reversed. If so how can you tell the difference? I know kaiser willys sell intake and exhaust
springs for this engine so I know they differ.
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
So an update to my F134 having issues with needing too much pressure to turn it over. I pulled the engine again, and through extensive tril and error found that I can turn it over by hand wit 38 ftlbs if the rocker arm is removed and it needs over 40 to 45 with it installed and yes the valve lady is correct. The machines that did the bore and polish reassembled the head. Is it possible the springs were reversed. If so how can you tell the difference? I know kaiser willys sell intake and exhaust springs for this engine so I know they differ.
|
OK, have one of the original paint job, the guy is my? painter friend, now he's 71.?
This is a scan of a dusty slide, so the marks on the white paint are "not really there".?
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Ok stories like this NEEDS PHOTOS!
Aah, remember Sleeper well.? Hasn't Apple released the Orgasmatron??? Wonderful film.
The wagon is a time machine because my family had perhaps a 49 2 wd wagon, and one of my father's friends had a 51 2 wd.? I remember standing up behind my mother as she learned how to drive from a friend of hers, on Munsel Lake Road north of Florence, OR in
the Willys. ? No seat belts or restraining devices for little boys then.? My father had a cabinet shop, and the Willys wagon was the delivery vehicle.? My older brother recalls what it was like driving to the big city- Portland- in the wagon- the fast roads-
highway 99 had four lanes-and the Willys was just a little slow.
When my father drove my wagon,? he said that his flathead had more power than my F head.? Which could be true given the state of repair at any given time.
My wagon was found outside of Noti, OR in the spring of 1972.? $200.? Burned a quart of oil every 60 miles.? Removed blackberry vines from the back.? I wet sanded the body for paint during spring term at the University of Oregon.? Did a shade tree overhaul
to quench the oil consumption, which worked.? One cylinder wall had a crack. It ended before piston travel, so no problem.
Did the paint job in Florence.? On the Oregon coast, summertime, the wind is quiet in the morning until 9 or 10 AM, when it builds to a howl.? The compressor we used couldn't keep up with the spray gun.? Spray, pause, spray.? We shot it outside, my friend Mike
sprayed,? while I fished the pine needles out of the wet paint.? Fortunately,? it dried quickly.? Two tone even.
Dan, when you mention your Willys as a "time machine" it reminds me of clip from a memorable old flick.? For a little nostalgia, you can see it on YouTube at
200 year old Volkswagen discovery scene from Woody Allen's "Sleeper" 1973.
I tend to think ahead too much, but as a person nearing the octogenarian stage, can't help but wonder how the next generations view old stock machinery.? I delude myself that restomoded vehicles will be the popular ones... foolish, realistic, deranged?
Cheers, PuN.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Ok stories like this NEEDS PHOTOS!
Aah, remember Sleeper well.? Hasn't Apple released the Orgasmatron??? Wonderful film.
The wagon is a time machine because my family had perhaps a 49 2 wd wagon, and one of my father's friends had a 51 2 wd.? I remember standing up behind my mother as she learned how to drive from a friend of hers, on Munsel Lake Road north of Florence, OR in
the Willys. ? No seat belts or restraining devices for little boys then.? My father had a cabinet shop, and the Willys wagon was the delivery vehicle.? My older brother recalls what it was like driving to the big city- Portland- in the wagon- the fast roads-
highway 99 had four lanes-and the Willys was just a little slow.
When my father drove my wagon,? he said that his flathead had more power than my F head.? Which could be true given the state of repair at any given time.
My wagon was found outside of Noti, OR in the spring of 1972.? $200.? Burned a quart of oil every 60 miles.? Removed blackberry vines from the back.? I wet sanded the body for paint during spring term at the University of Oregon.? Did a shade tree overhaul
to quench the oil consumption, which worked.? One cylinder wall had a crack. It ended before piston travel, so no problem.
Did the paint job in Florence.? On the Oregon coast, summertime, the wind is quiet in the morning until 9 or 10 AM, when it builds to a howl.? The compressor we used couldn't keep up with the spray gun.? Spray, pause, spray.? We shot it outside, my friend Mike
sprayed,? while I fished the pine needles out of the wet paint.? Fortunately,? it dried quickly.? Two tone even.
Dan, when you mention your Willys as a "time machine" it reminds me of clip from a memorable old flick.? For a little nostalgia, you can see it on YouTube at
200 year old Volkswagen discovery scene from Woody Allen's "Sleeper" 1973.
I tend to think ahead too much, but as a person nearing the octogenarian stage, can't help but wonder how the next generations view old stock machinery.? I delude myself that restomoded vehicles will be the popular ones... foolish, realistic, deranged?
Cheers, PuN.
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Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
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jay bernhardt
