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Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process

Dan Mulholland All Messages By This Member #192476 开云体育 Jay, That's great news.? It is very likely that KW sells the Best seals as part #800099, and they will probably work well, provided that they are recent stock. The KW parts folks do not want to identify the manufacturer of their rear seals via catalog or email, but may tell you over the phone. Details: Here are some of the measurements for the diameter of the rear sealing surface: CJ2 page, original spec:????????????2.345" original spec per Willys manual:?????2.331-2.3341" Post polish and/or grind: Metal shaper:??????Should be 2.310" for the Best seal, current one, or 2.335" for the incorrectly made ones- (you may have received one of these via Ebay).? He shows that the seal, when held by hand around the crankshaft, should have a small gap, a gap that gets compressed when installed.? The ones that were too big had no gap- you could check this out. The "Best" seals- poor guy was named "Best"- (suppose it's better than some other possibilities), now work well (at 2.310") according to Metalshaper.? They cost more- the firm specializes in US made seals for vintage cars.? MetalShaper's? opinion- other seals are a gamble in terms of quality and fit- as you may have learned through "experience".? Assn of rebuilders, 2002 standard:? 2.3202"-2.3120"?` My crankshaft,? sitting at the machinists, is within the assn of rebuilders numbers, hope that's close enough for the Best seal.?? t would be useful, perhaps reassuring, to know what diameter you're working with.?? The machine shop undoubtedly measured. The rope seal should also work, of course.? I've watched a few Youtube? sessions that cover how to put them in.? The Australian one is hilarious in terms of the accent in which the presenter utters nearly endless curses.? Dan ? original spec:???? toggle quoted message Show quoted text From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of jay bernhardt <bitrootvz@...> Sent: Monday, March 18, 2024 1:40 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Update on Groups.io Reverification Process ? Ok I think I have it. It's the rear seal took it out and put the race in with out one and it turned freely. Am I safe to get one from KW as ebay ones are too thick and so is a rope.? On Mon, Mar 18, 2024, 2:38?PM jay bernhardt via <bitrootvz=[email protected]> wrote: Yes I've done that and as I add each part it gets stiffer. The main issue is the valves and cam. Today I'm going to pull the head and remove an exhaust valve and intake vsl e to see if the machinest? reversed the springs. On Mon, Mar 18, 2024, 1:15?PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote: The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and need to be installed the right way around. Three main bearings? It'd be hard to mess up that up... <g> But the same is true for the big end bearings on the rods. A lot easier to mess up. Did you liberally lubricate all all the bearings, with motor oil or assembly lube, when you installed them? Likewise the pistons and cylinder bores. A properly assembled engine should turn over only a little stiffly at first. Easily turned with a standard length 1/2 ratchet. Try disconnecting everything from the crankshaft and make sure it turns easily. Then connect one thing to the crank and see what happens, then one more, and so on... Good luck! On 3/17/2024 7:47 PM, Jeepman Dan wrote: > ... > One is that > the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before the pistons or > timing gear are added,... -- John <jkohnen@...> When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. (Edward Abbey) -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

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#192476

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