Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
I'm having difficulty getting the end play correct on my f134. There is no shims just the thrust washer. It won't get closer than .012. Do I need shims or what.
On Fri, Jan 26, 2024, 5:35?PM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: Thank you Dan.
Pavel up North.
I reviewed most of the member directory and couldn't find anyone impacted by this.? You may get a message asking you to reverify your membership in Willystech, this is what it's about.
Dan
Dear dan mulholland,? You are receiving this email because you are an owner or moderator of one or more ??groups. We are in the process of reverifying some of our users and we wanted to make sure you knew what was happening and why. For more detail about this, please visit the Reverification FAQ, at ?/static/reverifyfaqOn Saturday January 13th, 2024, an anti-spam service called Spamhaus labeled one of our email servers as a spam sender. This caused any email service that uses Spamhaus to stop accepting email from our server. Because of this, we began a reverification process and sent out reverification emails to a subset of our users on Sunday January 14th. Spamhaus lifted their block on Monday, January 15th, 2024, but we need to continue the reverification process. You can see which, if any, of your users are affected. Go to the Admin section of your group and look at the Members page. Next to each user's email, there may be a badge with the letters RI or RS. RI means the confirmation/reverification is in progress, but has not been completed. RS means the confirmation/reverification has been successfully completed. Here are the next steps in the reverification process:? - On Sunday, January 28th, group emails to people in the RI state will be disabled. Messages from moderators and login link emails will still work.
- Until February 11th, people will still be able to reverify themselves and the RI and RS badges will still show up in the Members page.
- After that, members still in the RI state will be removed from groups. The activity log entry will be?Membership - Member Removed, with the added reason of?reverification failed.
For domains where no reverifications happened, no invites or direct adds will be permitted going forward. If there is a valid person on one of those domains, they should contact ?[email protected]?to have the domain ban lifted. We apologize for the inconvenience this process may cause, but it is necessary to ensure that we are able to continue delivering group email reliably. Thank you for using?. Best Regards, ?The ??Team ?
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Re: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
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On Jan 26, 2024, at 9:06?AM, Dan Mulholland <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
I reviewed most of the member directory and couldn't find anyone impacted by this.? You may get a message asking you to reverify your membership in Willystech, this is what it's about.
Dan
Dear dan mulholland,? You are receiving this email because you are an owner or moderator of one or more ??groups. We are in the process of reverifying some of our users and we wanted to make sure you knew what was happening and why. For more detail about this, please visit the Reverification FAQ, at ?/static/reverifyfaqOn Saturday January 13th, 2024, an anti-spam service called Spamhaus labeled one of our email servers as a spam sender. This caused any email service that uses Spamhaus to stop accepting email from our server. Because of this, we began a reverification process and sent out reverification emails to a subset of our users on Sunday January 14th. Spamhaus lifted their block on Monday, January 15th, 2024, but we need to continue the reverification process. You can see which, if any, of your users are affected. Go to the Admin section of your group and look at the Members page. Next to each user's email, there may be a badge with the letters RI or RS. RI means the confirmation/reverification is in progress, but has not been completed. RS means the confirmation/reverification has been successfully completed. Here are the next steps in the reverification process:? - On Sunday, January 28th, group emails to people in the RI state will be disabled. Messages from moderators and login link emails will still work.
- Until February 11th, people will still be able to reverify themselves and the RI and RS badges will still show up in the Members page.
- After that, members still in the RI state will be removed from groups. The activity log entry will be?Membership - Member Removed, with the added reason of?reverification failed.
For domains where no reverifications happened, no invites or direct adds will be permitted going forward. If there is a valid person on one of those domains, they should contact ?[email protected]?to have the domain ban lifted. We apologize for the inconvenience this process may cause, but it is necessary to ensure that we are able to continue delivering group email reliably. Thank you for using?. Best Regards, ?The ??Team ?
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Fw: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
I reviewed most of the member directory and couldn't find anyone impacted by this.? You may get a message asking you to reverify your membership in Willystech, this is what it's about.
Dan
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From: Groups.io Reverification <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2024 1:59 PM
To: dan mulholland <mulhollanddr@...>
Subject: Update on Groups.io Reverification Process
?
Dear dan mulholland,
You are receiving this email because you are an owner or moderator of one or more Groups.io groups. We are in the process of reverifying some of our users and we wanted to make sure you knew what was happening and why. For more detail about this, please
visit the Reverification FAQ, at
/static/reverifyfaq
On Saturday January 13th, 2024, an anti-spam service called Spamhaus labeled one of our email servers as a spam sender. This caused any email service that uses Spamhaus to stop accepting email from our server. Because of this, we began a reverification process
and sent out reverification emails to a subset of our users on Sunday January 14th. Spamhaus lifted their block on Monday, January 15th, 2024, but we need to continue the reverification process.
You can see which, if any, of your users are affected. Go to the Admin section of your group and look at the Members page. Next to each user's email, there may be a badge with the letters RI or RS. RI means the confirmation/reverification is in progress,
but has not been completed. RS means the confirmation/reverification has been successfully completed.
Here are the next steps in the reverification process:
- On Sunday, January 28th, group emails to people in the RI state will be disabled. Messages from moderators and login link emails will still work.
- Until February 11th, people will still be able to reverify themselves and the RI and RS badges will still show up in the Members page.
- After that, members still in the RI state will be removed from groups. The activity log entry will be
Membership - Member Removed, with the added reason of reverification failed.
For domains where no reverifications happened, no invites or direct adds will be permitted going forward. If there is a valid person on one of those domains, they should contact [email protected] to have the domain ban lifted.
We apologize for the inconvenience this process may cause, but it is necessary to ensure that we are able to continue delivering group email reliably. Thank you for using Groups.io.
Best Regards,
The Groups.io Team
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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So, the Fhead is at the machine shop; they found two cracks in the block, both visually begin about an inch from an exhaust valve seat, goes? there,? and? reappears below the valve seat insert.? Concern is potential leaks, failure to pass a pressure test, whether
or not a repair is possible or advised.? Hard to see in this picture, basically two similar cracks within the yellow area.?? They'd prefer that another block be found.? Anybody have an Fhead block around?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Yes Sir Dan,You Are Welcome!
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Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Thanks for the "tight but not crazy tight" suggestions.
Dan
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Ditto to Randall's reply.? When I updated our D18 to a D20 large hole housing, I used a "nyloc" nut that Herm the-overdrive-guy provided.? I don't remember the torque used but it was probably over 75 lbs... so far, after a number of years, the nut has
held fast. PuN.
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Ditto to Randall's reply.? When I updated our D18 to a D20 large hole housing, I used a "nyloc" nut that Herm the-overdrive-guy provided.? I don't remember the torque used but it was probably over 75 lbs... so far, after a number of years, the nut has held fast. PuN.
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Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Probably a self locking nut on that drive line hub,I know the T-90 with four wheel? drive usually torque on 100 to 120 ft lbs,with the castelated nut with cotter pin,I think you would be ok with 90 ft lbs!
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Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Ok got it. Is it the 4 bolts or the nut in the center. I did a quick lookup and the yoke nuts are 100 to 120 foot pounds on the 4wd transfer case. Don't? have any info on 2wd systems.
Jay,
It's the hub at the back end- here's a picture.? Yes, the driveline attaches to it, there is no emergency brake setup involved in this case.
Dan
This sounds like the emergency brake hub that is before the drive shaft. Is it the nut that holds the ujoint in place?
Looking for an idea about the torque setting for the hub, maybe not the correct word, that connects the transmission to the driveline.? This is on the back of the borg warner overdrive on a T96 transmission.? I've removed the hub, installing a speedi sleeve
to clean up the hub surface so the new seal will work better.?? The nut came off hard, meaning use of a breaker bar, with the hub itself held by a piece of heavy angle iron bolted to the hub flange.?
Other than that, our weather made the national news, with an ice storm.? More importantly, it made it too cold for me to work in an unheated garage.? It's warmed up now and the ice is melting away.
I did have a dilemma yesterday.? My wife decided to go out and hack the ice off the sidewalk and the walk to if from our house.? I was reading a book in front of the fireplace (equipped with an energy efficient insert, works great).? So, when do I feel guilty
enough to spell her on this task?? If I can hold out against my conscience long enough, the job will be nearly or completely done.? If I get up and help right away, I'll feel better about myself.? Oh, life challenges.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
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Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Jay,
It's the hub at the back end- here's a picture.? Yes, the driveline attaches to it, there is no emergency brake setup involved in this case.
Dan
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This sounds like the emergency brake hub that is before the drive shaft. Is it the nut that holds the ujoint in place?
Looking for an idea about the torque setting for the hub, maybe not the correct word, that connects the transmission to the driveline.? This is on the back of the borg warner overdrive on a T96 transmission.? I've removed the hub, installing a speedi sleeve
to clean up the hub surface so the new seal will work better.?? The nut came off hard, meaning use of a breaker bar, with the hub itself held by a piece of heavy angle iron bolted to the hub flange.?
Other than that, our weather made the national news, with an ice storm.? More importantly, it made it too cold for me to work in an unheated garage.? It's warmed up now and the ice is melting away.
I did have a dilemma yesterday.? My wife decided to go out and hack the ice off the sidewalk and the walk to if from our house.? I was reading a book in front of the fireplace (equipped with an energy efficient insert, works great).? So, when do I feel guilty
enough to spell her on this task?? If I can hold out against my conscience long enough, the job will be nearly or completely done.? If I get up and help right away, I'll feel better about myself.? Oh, life challenges.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Re: Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
This sounds like the emergency brake hub that is before the drive shaft. Is it the nut that holds the ujoint in place?
Looking for an idea about the torque setting for the hub, maybe not the correct word, that connects the transmission to the driveline.? This is on the back of the borg warner overdrive on a T96 transmission.? I've removed the hub, installing a speedi sleeve
to clean up the hub surface so the new seal will work better.?? The nut came off hard, meaning use of a breaker bar, with the hub itself held by a piece of heavy angle iron bolted to the hub flange.?
Other than that, our weather made the national news, with an ice storm.? More importantly, it made it too cold for me to work in an unheated garage.? It's warmed up now and the ice is melting away.
I did have a dilemma yesterday.? My wife decided to go out and hack the ice off the sidewalk and the walk to if from our house.? I was reading a book in front of the fireplace (equipped with an energy efficient insert, works great).? So, when do I feel guilty
enough to spell her on this task?? If I can hold out against my conscience long enough, the job will be nearly or completely done.? If I get up and help right away, I'll feel better about myself.? Oh, life challenges.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Torque setting for splined rear transmission hub
Looking for an idea about the torque setting for the hub, maybe not the correct word, that connects the transmission to the driveline.? This is on the back of the borg warner overdrive on a T96 transmission.? I've removed the hub, installing a speedi sleeve
to clean up the hub surface so the new seal will work better.?? The nut came off hard, meaning use of a breaker bar, with the hub itself held by a piece of heavy angle iron bolted to the hub flange.?
Other than that, our weather made the national news, with an ice storm.? More importantly, it made it too cold for me to work in an unheated garage.? It's warmed up now and the ice is melting away.
I did have a dilemma yesterday.? My wife decided to go out and hack the ice off the sidewalk and the walk to if from our house.? I was reading a book in front of the fireplace (equipped with an energy efficient insert, works great).? So, when do I feel guilty
enough to spell her on this task?? If I can hold out against my conscience long enough, the job will be nearly or completely done.? If I get up and help right away, I'll feel better about myself.? Oh, life challenges.
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Pavel,
I lack the machinery and talent to make a bearing, or bearings.? After actually looking, this size looks pretty close:?
I'd probably destroy the motor trying to get the old ones out, they appear to be pressed into sheet metal clips that are part of the
motor case.?? But, it wouldn't be a terrible experiment to try, I suppose.? Maybe I should have gone down this road first...oh the agonizing, life altering decisions we have to make.
I'm guessing on the year of the heater motor.? The heater has great styling, says Willys Overland on the front.? Someone from this list
came from Idaho to pick up the 226 engine from my "body donor" car, and handed me the heater in trade.? I have the original for 1953, a boring, non descript box.? I also have a boring one from the donor 56 wagon. assume that's 12 volt.?
Speaking of "stock", spent some time thinking about the firewall material - engine side, as in to replace what I did 25 years ago.?
I remember removing some cardboard.? In looking at the replacement stuff now available, one company described the original as cardboard,? just box material, with one layer of waterproof cardboard facing the engine.? My cardboard cutting skills are up to it,
but who'd want to put that back in!?? There's a board for sale, probably stained plywood, and a plastic panel backed with insulation too.? What I made all those years ago was made from vinyl flooring, with the backside painted gray, facing out, cut to fit
the space, painted, and backed by insulation.?
I decided to patch that up, it had delaminated in some areas, that's what wood glue is forl?? That way I didn't have to remove it.?
I'd spray painted it gray originally, with car paint I'd used on the wheels.?? Cleaned it up with 1/1 SimpleGreen. ? Went to Eugene hardware to have them computer match some paint for it; they don't do that for oil based paint anymore.? So, latex it is, certainly
easier to work with, used a foam brush, and it looks pretty good.? After all, it only has to look better than cardboard, that's a very low bar.
Dan
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Dan,?
Did the original motor still work only needing new bearings?? If so, can the bearings be replaced?? I've never seen the stock motor from a 50s Willys but you might be able to machine new bearings out of sintered bronze or Delrin.? This could make yet another
project to drive you crazy... after all it is mid winter and still officially COVID times (12th wave now?)
Cheers, Pavel up North.
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Dan,?
Did the original motor still work only needing new bearings?? If so, can the bearings be replaced?? I've never seen the stock motor from a 50s Willys but you might be able to machine new bearings out of sintered bronze or Delrin.? This could make yet another project to drive you crazy... after all it is mid winter and still officially COVID times (12th wave now?)
Cheers, Pavel up North.
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While the engine is of the wagon, waiting for the machine shop,? I took on a few other tasks that are easier with the engine out, one being replacement of the heater fan.
This message was scratched into the heater core:? "RIP- K-3-11-7".? Any guesses what the worker at Harrison Heaters meant?
The motor needed new bronze bushings,? I assume.? Not knowing where to find them,? I replaced the motor with a "universal" replacement, which actually fit decently with some filing.? Two leads, what's up with that?? Well, one's for clockwise, the other for
counterclockwise, ground the other lead.?? I can handle that level of complexity.?? If I rigged up a DPDT switch, I figure I could run the fan in reverse in the summertime, which would provide air conditioning.
The fan motors sold by the usual suspects won't fit in this heater, the motors are too fat, so the heater came from a company that sells parts for 40's Chevrolets based in Vancouver WA.? It is amazing how many more parts are available now than a few decades
ago.
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Heater vacuum actuator
The little vacuum pump is an Amazon 12 volt Delaman mini pump, about $15USd or 20CDN
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Re: Heater vacuum actuator
With everything re-assembled but not installed in our wagon, I connected a small 12 volt vacuum pump to mimic engine vacuum.? The pump delivers 14 inches vacuum (roughly 1/2 Bar) enough to activate the two vacuum actuators fully in the heater manifold/distribution box.? I'll have to check how much negative pressure the old Tornado can produce - hopefully enough to make the heater distribution system functional again.? If the engine doesn't make close to 14 inches vacuum I could disconnect the original vacuum line, plug it, and use the new vacuum pump instead. A little lubricant on the button switch system makes a difference too. You can see the little pump held in the vise. 
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First, a Saturday test.? Turned over the engine, and this piece fell out.?? I? have an idea- any others
Also,
Spent a lot of time trying to figure out the "Best gasket Co" seal, concerning the desired diameter of the race of the seal area used for the rear main seal.? This started because the metal shaper person on YouTube, who's overhauled many 4 cylinder Willys engines,
concluded in 2020 that the Best seal would not work with the diameter used by those that regrind and refurbish crankshafts, which he said was 2.310 inches. instead, this seal required 2.335"; if ground to 2.310, the seal will leak.?? Other sources on the diameter
include Willys specifications, 2.331to 2.3341; the Cj2A page says 2.345.? My guess is that the Willys documentation, for all years, assumes a rope seal; and that the Cj2A page does as well.? There also is a published standard from the association of machine
shops?? in 2002 (AERO, there will be a test later) that says 2.3202-2.312 is correct if using a non rope seal.?? Probably the? 2.310 evolved? since 2002.
I contacted The Jeepterman,? who sells these seals, they didn't know anything about it.?? I tried to contact Best, but they didn't respond to email and don't answer the phone.? I posted to the metalshaper YouTube video via a comment, asking if this problem
had been resolved; fortunately, the answer is yes, the Best seal now works well with the 2.310 diameter.? So that's what I'm going to ask the machinist to do.?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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A speedi sleeve would be great, but impossible. Take a look at this picture; see the flange at the bottom?? Try getting a speedi sleeve over that!
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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I agree with John’s suggestions. ?Plasticgage will tell you the bearing clearances. ?If they are too tight, then you can check for the cause,?wrong bearings or swapped main caps. ?I would remove each cap separately and see if the crank turns to ID which ones are the culprits. Same for the rod bearings if the crank turns out to be OK.
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Going to pull the engine back out and go through it again.? Did you check clearance with plastigage? Also, did any of the main caps get swapped to the wrong position? They're align honed at the factory and cannot be mix up. They can be checked with mics and telescoping gages.
John 56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash. On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 4:20 PM, Dan Mulholland Jay,
Were you able to isolate the problem by removing the rear seal, for example, to see how it behaved with withe the front and rear mains tightened?
Probably the problem is still there.? If so, the diameter of the bearings could be checked, and then that measurement compared to the diameter supported by the bearing inserts.? Perhaps the wrong inserts were provided.? I'm not an expert.???
Dan
Is this an on going thread as I haven't seen earlier stuff, but I am dealing with an F134 crankshaft issue my self. Had the block machined and crank+cam polished and put it together. The crank will not turn if front and rear bearings are tight. Swapped bearings and rear seal from kaiser willys and no joy. Think the crank is bent? Going ahead with the crankshaft replacement, in order to get a non corroded surface for the rear main seal.? With good help, the engine is out.? Looked for other issues,? fortunately, the valves look great; relieved to find hardened valve seats.? Cylinder wall also are fine, no ridges, etc.? Will replace the rings while it's open.
Thinking of ordering from Kaiser Willys a replacement crankshaft.?? Hoping the USA made rear main seal will work.? Hope the crank will be within specs for the bearing surface.? Experience or advice concerning the crankshaft or seal would be welcome.
Dan
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
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jay bernhardt