开云体育

----- Original Message -----
From: "bob dobalina" <looneybin840@...>
To: <WillysTech@...>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 4:41 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] CJ2A Replacement Fenders


Dan-

How much would you like for it?

Bob, Az

----- Original Message ----
From: Dan Schultz <dschultz@...>
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 10:10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] CJ2A Replacement Fenders














Where are you located? I have a driver's side in decent shape.



Dan Schultz

Prescott Valley, Arizona



----- Original Message -----

From: "phillapin" <plapin@comcast. net>

To: <WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com>

Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 4:12 PM

Subject: [WT] CJ2A Replacement Fenders



I am doing a pretty complete restoration of my 46CJ2A, and pulled the

fenders and grill off today. Grill is fine, but the fenders,

especially the passenger (battery acid) side are fairly well shot. I

could, in theory, rebuild them, but the time investment would be large.

I see replacement fenders on several sites - with WIDELY varying

prices! Beechwood was the highest at $390 per fender, with D&L Bensinger

(BEMAK) fenders listed at $175 each. Does anyone have any insight as

to the reason for large price variations? Is it metal thickness /

quality issues / or simply business reputation? Also - I am in Oregon

and would like to find a source closer to me than the East Coast! Any

comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Phil



Support WillysTech -- Check out the WT Bookstore

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----- Original Message -----
From: John Barrett
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 8:31 PM
Subject: [WT] OT Picture


I know this is off topic but several of you have been remembering my son
in prayer while he's severing in Afghan. I just received this picture
today and thought you might like to see just who he is. He's the one on
the left in the picture.



John
'56 Pickup TKER TOY
Cherry Valley, Calif.

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary J. Tolosa
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 11:24 PM
Subject: RE: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run (UPDATE)


Thanks again for the great input/guidance, here is what I found....

I first checked the accelerator pump and verified gas is getting
into the carb.

Next, I checked for a spark on the spark plug, I did the test as
DJ described, holding the line 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on
and tried to start, I did not see a spark, but was not sure about
the distance of the line to the plug since the line has a cover on
the end. So I removed the plug, connected the line and tried it
that way - no spark was visible (finally the crummy lights in my
garage were good for something).

I then checked the positive line to the coil (with the ignition on)
for power. I have power at the coil.

I then checked the points (again with the ignition on) and got
a spark.

I then checked the line at the top of the coil for spark, but did
not see any spark.

So, unless I did not do a test above properly (entirely possible),
I think I may have a bad coil. I did remove the coil, it seems to
have liquid inside, I heard once they can dry up and go bad.

Seems kind of strange, I would loose the coil like that though. Just
idling a few minutes.

Also, if the coil is bad, would anyone have a NAPA part number
for the 12v coil that fits the original mount? I did take my old
coil to my FLAPS but the highly motivated person behind the
counter said he had no way to test my coil and that he was
not sure what coil I had, since the original was a 6v and mine
has been converted to 12v, he then found a coil that "should
work" for $60.00, and also said the part is not returnable. Now
that's customer service. Needless to say, I decided to hold
on that offer.

Oh yea, I almost forgot, I did check the plugs, they all seem
to have had a black layer of crud built up, so I did replace them
all. But, this did not solve the issue, sorry Dr.

I think we are getting close...
Please advise on what you folks think.

Thanks again.

Gary




-----Original Message-----
From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of kr98664
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:22 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run

--- In WillysTech@...
<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@...>
wrote:
>
> I had submitted this yesterday with only one response, which
was helpful
>

Well, let's consider it was running okay within recent history,
so
odds are likely against any sort of catastrophic failure. My
first
thoughts were the spark plugs have fouled. These old engines
aren't
exactly the cleanest burning things, running on the rich side
all the
time, and way more so when the engine is cold and choke is on.
It
doesn't take much to foul the plugs under those conditions. I
can
notice the plugs loading up on my 2A when idling for any length
of
time. I have to romp on the engine a little bit to blow out the
carbon. Often a few minutes of running with a heavy load, under
full
throttle, is all it will take. Back in the pre-PC days, we even
had a
special term for that, the (censored) tune-up.

Since you can't get it started to perform a (censored) tune-up,
I'd
suggest yanking the plugs for a look see. With any sort of build
up
other than a dry, light tan coating, the plugs may not fire.
Give 'em
a good cleaning with some aerosol electronic cleaner, dry 'em
with
compressed air, and reinstall them and see what happens. I'm
willing
to bet DJ's entire collection of Dukes of Hazzard action figures
(Yes,
even the talking Boss Hogg) that your engine will fire right
back up.

However, since I'm lazy, and yanking plugs involves wrenches,
there
are three quick checks I'd make. Make sure you have a spark,
like DJ
described. Keep in mind a spark may be strong enough to fire in
ambient air conditions, but not under compression inside a
cylinder.
No spark obviously equals bad. The presence of a spark doesn't
guarantee it's a useable spark, but don't get too bogged down
with
that yet.

I'd also suggest taking a looksee at the condition of the
ignition
points. They should be light grey on both sides and no rougher
than
very fine sandpaper, with no evidence of burning. I've no idea
why
this works, but pass a folded dollar bill back and forth between
the
points several times, and that will often clean up any light
crud.
The points need to be closed first, and once you spread them
open,
they'll clamp back down on the dollar bill.

The other lazy man's thing to check is for the presence of fuel
spraying down the carb throat when you cycle the throttle
linkage.
That's the accelerator pump at work, which tells you there is
fuel
present in the carb bowl. No guarantees the rest of the carb is
working properly, but at least you can quickly confirm it has
fuel.

Don't get too bogged down with any of these last checks. You can
check for the presence of fuel, spark, and clean the ignition
points
all in less than five minutes. After that, yank the plugs for a
good
cleaning before anything else. Make sure you let us know what
finally
fixes it, so I can rub it in DJ's face and finally get that
talking
Boss Hog doll of his. (Don't worry, DJ, I won't take your Daisy
Duke
memorabilia)

Regards,

Dr. Vern

----- Original Message -----
From: snakespit1934
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 2:51 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run (UPDATE)



I have been told that is the nature of coils. They are either good,
or they are bad. No in-between; when they die, they do it suddenly,
with no fooling around. A 12 Volt coil should be no problem to find,
including a mount, if the old mount doesn't fit.
-Denver (Hemet, CA)

--- In WillysTech@..., "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks again for the great input/guidance, here is what I found....
>
> I first checked the accelerator pump and verified gas is getting
> into the carb.
>
> Next, I checked for a spark on the spark plug, I did the test as
> DJ described, holding the line 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on
> and tried to start, I did not see a spark, but was not sure about
> the distance of the line to the plug since the line has a cover on
> the end. So I removed the plug, connected the line and tried it
> that way - no spark was visible (finally the crummy lights in my
> garage were good for something).
>
> I then checked the positive line to the coil (with the ignition on)
> for power. I have power at the coil.
>
> I then checked the points (again with the ignition on) and got
> a spark.
>
> I then checked the line at the top of the coil for spark, but did
> not see any spark.
>
> So, unless I did not do a test above properly (entirely possible),
> I think I may have a bad coil. I did remove the coil, it seems to
> have liquid inside, I heard once they can dry up and go bad.
>
> Seems kind of strange, I would loose the coil like that though.
Just
> idling a few minutes.
>
> Also, if the coil is bad, would anyone have a NAPA part number
> for the 12v coil that fits the original mount? I did take my old
> coil to my FLAPS but the highly motivated person behind the
> counter said he had no way to test my coil and that he was
> not sure what coil I had, since the original was a 6v and mine
> has been converted to 12v, he then found a coil that "should
> work" for $60.00, and also said the part is not returnable. Now
> that's customer service. Needless to say, I decided to hold
> on that offer.
>
> Oh yea, I almost forgot, I did check the plugs, they all seem
> to have had a black layer of crud built up, so I did replace them
> all. But, this did not solve the issue, sorry Dr.
>
> I think we are getting close...
> Please advise on what you folks think.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>

.

On Nov 19, 2007 7:46 AM, SF <sf@...> wrote:

You are exactly right. They can and do fail just like that.
SF


----- Original Message -----
From: snakespit1934
To: WillysTech@...

Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run (UPDATE)

I have been told that is the nature of coils. They are either good,
or they are bad. No in-between; when they die, they do it suddenly,
with no fooling around. A 12 Volt coil should be no problem to find,
including a mount, if the old mount doesn't fit.
-Denver (Hemet, CA)

--- In WillysTech@..., "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@...>
wrote:

Thanks again for the great input/guidance, here is what I found....

I first checked the accelerator pump and verified gas is getting
into the carb.

Next, I checked for a spark on the spark plug, I did the test as
DJ described, holding the line 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on
and tried to start, I did not see a spark, but was not sure about
the distance of the line to the plug since the line has a cover on
the end. So I removed the plug, connected the line and tried it
that way - no spark was visible (finally the crummy lights in my
garage were good for something).

I then checked the positive line to the coil (with the ignition on)
for power. I have power at the coil.

I then checked the points (again with the ignition on) and got
a spark.

I then checked the line at the top of the coil for spark, but did
not see any spark.

So, unless I did not do a test above properly (entirely possible),
I think I may have a bad coil. I did remove the coil, it seems to
have liquid inside, I heard once they can dry up and go bad.

Seems kind of strange, I would loose the coil like that though.

Just

idling a few minutes.

Also, if the coil is bad, would anyone have a NAPA part number
for the 12v coil that fits the original mount? I did take my old
coil to my FLAPS but the highly motivated person behind the
counter said he had no way to test my coil and that he was
not sure what coil I had, since the original was a 6v and mine
has been converted to 12v, he then found a coil that "should
work" for $60.00, and also said the part is not returnable. Now
that's customer service. Needless to say, I decided to hold
on that offer.

Oh yea, I almost forgot, I did check the plugs, they all seem
to have had a black layer of crud built up, so I did replace them
all. But, this did not solve the issue, sorry Dr.

I think we are getting close...
Please advise on what you folks think.

Thanks again.

Gary




-----Original Message-----
From: WillysTech@...

[mailto:WillysTech@...] On

Behalf Of kr98664
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:22 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run



--- In WillysTech@...
<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@>
wrote:

I had submitted this yesterday with only one response, which

was helpful

Well, let's consider it was running okay within recent

history,

so
odds are likely against any sort of catastrophic failure. My
first
thoughts were the spark plugs have fouled. These old engines
aren't
exactly the cleanest burning things, running on the rich side
all the
time, and way more so when the engine is cold and choke is on.
It
doesn't take much to foul the plugs under those conditions. I
can
notice the plugs loading up on my 2A when idling for any

length

of
time. I have to romp on the engine a little bit to blow out

the

carbon. Often a few minutes of running with a heavy load,

under

full
throttle, is all it will take. Back in the pre-PC days, we

even

had a
special term for that, the (censored) tune-up.

Since you can't get it started to perform a (censored) tune-

up,

I'd
suggest yanking the plugs for a look see. With any sort of

build

up
other than a dry, light tan coating, the plugs may not fire.
Give 'em
a good cleaning with some aerosol electronic cleaner, dry 'em
with
compressed air, and reinstall them and see what happens. I'm
willing
to bet DJ's entire collection of Dukes of Hazzard action

figures

(Yes,
even the talking Boss Hogg) that your engine will fire right
back up.

However, since I'm lazy, and yanking plugs involves wrenches,
there
are three quick checks I'd make. Make sure you have a spark,
like DJ
described. Keep in mind a spark may be strong enough to fire

in

ambient air conditions, but not under compression inside a
cylinder.
No spark obviously equals bad. The presence of a spark doesn't
guarantee it's a useable spark, but don't get too bogged down
with
that yet.

I'd also suggest taking a looksee at the condition of the
ignition
points. They should be light grey on both sides and no rougher
than
very fine sandpaper, with no evidence of burning. I've no idea
why
this works, but pass a folded dollar bill back and forth

between

the
points several times, and that will often clean up any light
crud.
The points need to be closed first, and once you spread them
open,
they'll clamp back down on the dollar bill.

The other lazy man's thing to check is for the presence of

fuel

spraying down the carb throat when you cycle the throttle
linkage.
That's the accelerator pump at work, which tells you there is
fuel
present in the carb bowl. No guarantees the rest of the carb

is

working properly, but at least you can quickly confirm it has
fuel.

Don't get too bogged down with any of these last checks. You

can

check for the presence of fuel, spark, and clean the ignition
points
all in less than five minutes. After that, yank the plugs for

a

good
cleaning before anything else. Make sure you let us know what
finally
fixes it, so I can rub it in DJ's face and finally get that
talking
Boss Hog doll of his. (Don't worry, DJ, I won't take your

Daisy

Duke
memorabilia)

Regards,

Dr. Vern

----- Original Message -----
From: snakespit1934
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run (UPDATE)



I have been told that is the nature of coils. They are either good,
or they are bad. No in-between; when they die, they do it suddenly,
with no fooling around. A 12 Volt coil should be no problem to find,
including a mount, if the old mount doesn't fit.
-Denver (Hemet, CA)

--- In WillysTech@..., "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks again for the great input/guidance, here is what I found....
>
> I first checked the accelerator pump and verified gas is getting
> into the carb.
>
> Next, I checked for a spark on the spark plug, I did the test as
> DJ described, holding the line 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on
> and tried to start, I did not see a spark, but was not sure about
> the distance of the line to the plug since the line has a cover on
> the end. So I removed the plug, connected the line and tried it
> that way - no spark was visible (finally the crummy lights in my
> garage were good for something).
>
> I then checked the positive line to the coil (with the ignition on)
> for power. I have power at the coil.
>
> I then checked the points (again with the ignition on) and got
> a spark.
>
> I then checked the line at the top of the coil for spark, but did
> not see any spark.
>
> So, unless I did not do a test above properly (entirely possible),
> I think I may have a bad coil. I did remove the coil, it seems to
> have liquid inside, I heard once they can dry up and go bad.
>
> Seems kind of strange, I would loose the coil like that though.
Just
> idling a few minutes.
>
> Also, if the coil is bad, would anyone have a NAPA part number
> for the 12v coil that fits the original mount? I did take my old
> coil to my FLAPS but the highly motivated person behind the
> counter said he had no way to test my coil and that he was
> not sure what coil I had, since the original was a 6v and mine
> has been converted to 12v, he then found a coil that "should
> work" for $60.00, and also said the part is not returnable. Now
> that's customer service. Needless to say, I decided to hold
> on that offer.
>
> Oh yea, I almost forgot, I did check the plugs, they all seem
> to have had a black layer of crud built up, so I did replace them
> all. But, this did not solve the issue, sorry Dr.
>
> I think we are getting close...
> Please advise on what you folks think.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WillysTech@...
[mailto:WillysTech@...] On
> Behalf Of kr98664
> Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:22 PM
> To: WillysTech@...
> Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run
>
>
>
> --- In WillysTech@...
> <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I had submitted this yesterday with only one response, which
> was helpful
> >
>
> Well, let's consider it was running okay within recent
history,
> so
> odds are likely against any sort of catastrophic failure. My
> first
> thoughts were the spark plugs have fouled. These old engines
> aren't
> exactly the cleanest burning things, running on the rich side
> all the
> time, and way more so when the engine is cold and choke is on.
> It
> doesn't take much to foul the plugs under those conditions. I
> can
> notice the plugs loading up on my 2A when idling for any
length
> of
> time. I have to romp on the engine a little bit to blow out
the
> carbon. Often a few minutes of running with a heavy load,
under
> full
> throttle, is all it will take. Back in the pre-PC days, we
even
> had a
> special term for that, the (censored) tune-up.
>
> Since you can't get it started to perform a (censored) tune-
up,
> I'd
> suggest yanking the plugs for a look see. With any sort of
build
> up
> other than a dry, light tan coating, the plugs may not fire.
> Give 'em
> a good cleaning with some aerosol electronic cleaner, dry 'em
> with
> compressed air, and reinstall them and see what happens. I'm
> willing
> to bet DJ's entire collection of Dukes of Hazzard action
figures
> (Yes,
> even the talking Boss Hogg) that your engine will fire right
> back up.
>
> However, since I'm lazy, and yanking plugs involves wrenches,
> there
> are three quick checks I'd make. Make sure you have a spark,
> like DJ
> described. Keep in mind a spark may be strong enough to fire
in
> ambient air conditions, but not under compression inside a
> cylinder.
> No spark obviously equals bad. The presence of a spark doesn't
> guarantee it's a useable spark, but don't get too bogged down
> with
> that yet.
>
> I'd also suggest taking a looksee at the condition of the
> ignition
> points. They should be light grey on both sides and no rougher
> than
> very fine sandpaper, with no evidence of burning. I've no idea
> why
> this works, but pass a folded dollar bill back and forth
between
> the
> points several times, and that will often clean up any light
> crud.
> The points need to be closed first, and once you spread them
> open,
> they'll clamp back down on the dollar bill.
>
> The other lazy man's thing to check is for the presence of
fuel
> spraying down the carb throat when you cycle the throttle
> linkage.
> That's the accelerator pump at work, which tells you there is
> fuel
> present in the carb bowl. No guarantees the rest of the carb
is
> working properly, but at least you can quickly confirm it has
> fuel.
>
> Don't get too bogged down with any of these last checks. You
can
> check for the presence of fuel, spark, and clean the ignition
> points
> all in less than five minutes. After that, yank the plugs for
a
> good
> cleaning before anything else. Make sure you let us know what
> finally
> fixes it, so I can rub it in DJ's face and finally get that
> talking
> Boss Hog doll of his. (Don't worry, DJ, I won't take your
Daisy
> Duke
> memorabilia)
>
> Regards,
>
> Dr. Vern
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

----- Original Message ----
From: Dan Schultz <dschultz@...>
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 10:10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] CJ2A Replacement Fenders














Where are you located? I have a driver's side in decent shape.



Dan Schultz

Prescott Valley, Arizona



----- Original Message -----

From: "phillapin" <plapin@comcast. net>

To: <WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com>

Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 4:12 PM

Subject: [WT] CJ2A Replacement Fenders



I am doing a pretty complete restoration of my 46CJ2A, and pulled the

fenders and grill off today. Grill is fine, but the fenders,

especially the passenger (battery acid) side are fairly well shot. I

could, in theory, rebuild them, but the time investment would be large.

I see replacement fenders on several sites - with WIDELY varying

prices! Beechwood was the highest at $390 per fender, with D&L Bensinger

(BEMAK) fenders listed at $175 each. Does anyone have any insight as

to the reason for large price variations? Is it metal thickness /

quality issues / or simply business reputation? Also - I am in Oregon

and would like to find a source closer to me than the East Coast! Any

comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Phil



Support WillysTech -- Check out the WT Bookstore

ch.com/books. htm



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----- Original Message ----
From: snakespit1934 <jeepnut@...>
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 12:51:47 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run (UPDATE)
















I have been told that is the nature of coils. They are either good,

or they are bad. No in-between; when they die, they do it suddenly,

with no fooling around. A 12 Volt coil should be no problem to find,

including a mount, if the old mount doesn't fit.

-Denver (Hemet, CA)



--- In WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com, "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@... >

wrote:

Thanks again for the great input/guidance, here is what I found....

I first checked the accelerator pump and verified gas is getting

into the carb.

Next, I checked for a spark on the spark plug, I did the test as

DJ described, holding the line 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on

and tried to start, I did not see a spark, but was not sure about

the distance of the line to the plug since the line has a cover on

the end. So I removed the plug, connected the line and tried it

that way - no spark was visible (finally the crummy lights in my

garage were good for something).

I then checked the positive line to the coil (with the ignition on)

for power. I have power at the coil.

I then checked the points (again with the ignition on) and got

a spark.

I then checked the line at the top of the coil for spark, but did

not see any spark.

So, unless I did not do a test above properly (entirely possible),

I think I may have a bad coil. I did remove the coil, it seems to

have liquid inside, I heard once they can dry up and go bad.

Seems kind of strange, I would loose the coil like that though.

Just

idling a few minutes.

Also, if the coil is bad, would anyone have a NAPA part number

for the 12v coil that fits the original mount? I did take my old

coil to my FLAPS but the highly motivated person behind the

counter said he had no way to test my coil and that he was

not sure what coil I had, since the original was a 6v and mine

has been converted to 12v, he then found a coil that "should

work" for $60.00, and also said the part is not returnable. Now

that's customer service. Needless to say, I decided to hold

on that offer.

Oh yea, I almost forgot, I did check the plugs, they all seem

to have had a black layer of crud built up, so I did replace them

all. But, this did not solve the issue, sorry Dr.

I think we are getting close...

Please advise on what you folks think.

Thanks again.

Gary

-----Original Message-----

From: WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com

[mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com] On

Behalf Of kr98664

Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:22 PM

To: WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com

Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run

--- In WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com

<mailto:WillysTech% 40yahoogroups. com> , "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@>

wrote:

>

> I had submitted this yesterday with only one response, which

was helpful

>

Well, let's consider it was running okay within recent

history,

so

odds are likely against any sort of catastrophic failure. My

first

thoughts were the spark plugs have fouled. These old engines

aren't

exactly the cleanest burning things, running on the rich side

all the

time, and way more so when the engine is cold and choke is on.

It

doesn't take much to foul the plugs under those conditions. I

can

notice the plugs loading up on my 2A when idling for any

length

of

time. I have to romp on the engine a little bit to blow out

the

carbon. Often a few minutes of running with a heavy load,

under

full

throttle, is all it will take. Back in the pre-PC days, we

even

had a

special term for that, the (censored) tune-up.

Since you can't get it started to perform a (censored) tune-

up,

I'd

suggest yanking the plugs for a look see. With any sort of

build

up

other than a dry, light tan coating, the plugs may not fire.

Give 'em

a good cleaning with some aerosol electronic cleaner, dry 'em

with

compressed air, and reinstall them and see what happens. I'm

willing

to bet DJ's entire collection of Dukes of Hazzard action

figures

(Yes,

even the talking Boss Hogg) that your engine will fire right

back up.

However, since I'm lazy, and yanking plugs involves wrenches,

there

are three quick checks I'd make. Make sure you have a spark,

like DJ

described. Keep in mind a spark may be strong enough to fire

in

ambient air conditions, but not under compression inside a

cylinder.

No spark obviously equals bad. The presence of a spark doesn't

guarantee it's a useable spark, but don't get too bogged down

with

that yet.

I'd also suggest taking a looksee at the condition of the

ignition

points. They should be light grey on both sides and no rougher

than

very fine sandpaper, with no evidence of burning. I've no idea

why

this works, but pass a folded dollar bill back and forth

between

the

points several times, and that will often clean up any light

crud.

The points need to be closed first, and once you spread them

open,

they'll clamp back down on the dollar bill.

The other lazy man's thing to check is for the presence of

fuel

spraying down the carb throat when you cycle the throttle

linkage.

That's the accelerator pump at work, which tells you there is

fuel

present in the carb bowl. No guarantees the rest of the carb

is

working properly, but at least you can quickly confirm it has

fuel.

Don't get too bogged down with any of these last checks. You

can

check for the presence of fuel, spark, and clean the ignition

points

all in less than five minutes. After that, yank the plugs for

a

good

cleaning before anything else. Make sure you let us know what

finally

fixes it, so I can rub it in DJ's face and finally get that

talking

Boss Hog doll of his. (Don't worry, DJ, I won't take your

Daisy

Duke

memorabilia)

Regards,

Dr. Vern

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----- Original Message -----
From: "phillapin" <plapin@...>
To: <WillysTech@...>
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 4:12 PM
Subject: [WT] CJ2A Replacement Fenders


I am doing a pretty complete restoration of my 46CJ2A, and pulled the
fenders and grill off today. Grill is fine, but the fenders,
especially the passenger (battery acid) side are fairly well shot. I
could, in theory, rebuild them, but the time investment would be large.
I see replacement fenders on several sites - with WIDELY varying
prices! Beechwood was the highest at $390 per fender, with D&L Bensinger
(BEMAK) fenders listed at $175 each. Does anyone have any insight as
to the reason for large price variations? Is it metal thickness /
quality issues / or simply business reputation? Also - I am in Oregon
and would like to find a source closer to me than the East Coast! Any
comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Phil



Support WillysTech -- Check out the WT Bookstore


_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ WillysTech _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech Parts Board - Sell/Buy Vehicles and Parts

WillysTech Registry - Add your vehicle

WillysTech KnowledgeBase - Search the Archives

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
Yahoo! Groups Links

-----Original Message-----
From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of kr98664
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:22 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run



--- In WillysTech@...
<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@...>
wrote:
>
> I had submitted this yesterday with only one response, which
was helpful
>

Well, let's consider it was running okay within recent history,
so
odds are likely against any sort of catastrophic failure. My
first
thoughts were the spark plugs have fouled. These old engines
aren't
exactly the cleanest burning things, running on the rich side
all the
time, and way more so when the engine is cold and choke is on.
It
doesn't take much to foul the plugs under those conditions. I
can
notice the plugs loading up on my 2A when idling for any length
of
time. I have to romp on the engine a little bit to blow out the
carbon. Often a few minutes of running with a heavy load, under
full
throttle, is all it will take. Back in the pre-PC days, we even
had a
special term for that, the (censored) tune-up.

Since you can't get it started to perform a (censored) tune-up,
I'd
suggest yanking the plugs for a look see. With any sort of build
up
other than a dry, light tan coating, the plugs may not fire.
Give 'em
a good cleaning with some aerosol electronic cleaner, dry 'em
with
compressed air, and reinstall them and see what happens. I'm
willing
to bet DJ's entire collection of Dukes of Hazzard action figures
(Yes,
even the talking Boss Hogg) that your engine will fire right
back up.

However, since I'm lazy, and yanking plugs involves wrenches,
there
are three quick checks I'd make. Make sure you have a spark,
like DJ
described. Keep in mind a spark may be strong enough to fire in
ambient air conditions, but not under compression inside a
cylinder.
No spark obviously equals bad. The presence of a spark doesn't
guarantee it's a useable spark, but don't get too bogged down
with
that yet.

I'd also suggest taking a looksee at the condition of the
ignition
points. They should be light grey on both sides and no rougher
than
very fine sandpaper, with no evidence of burning. I've no idea
why
this works, but pass a folded dollar bill back and forth between
the
points several times, and that will often clean up any light
crud.
The points need to be closed first, and once you spread them
open,
they'll clamp back down on the dollar bill.

The other lazy man's thing to check is for the presence of fuel
spraying down the carb throat when you cycle the throttle
linkage.
That's the accelerator pump at work, which tells you there is
fuel
present in the carb bowl. No guarantees the rest of the carb is
working properly, but at least you can quickly confirm it has
fuel.

Don't get too bogged down with any of these last checks. You can
check for the presence of fuel, spark, and clean the ignition
points
all in less than five minutes. After that, yank the plugs for a
good
cleaning before anything else. Make sure you let us know what
finally
fixes it, so I can rub it in DJ's face and finally get that
talking
Boss Hog doll of his. (Don't worry, DJ, I won't take your Daisy
Duke
memorabilia)

Regards,

Dr. Vern

On Nov 18, 2007, at 1:25 PM, Derrin Fines wrote:

Hello Techers. I thought you might find this intersting. These guys are
about 25 minutes away from me. This is on Vancouver Island, in British
Columbia, Canada. They have been doing a thriving business. In no way
affilliated, just seeing a lot of their imports on the roads around
here.
Derrin

Scroll down to see the Mitsubishi Jeeps



Derrin Fines
1947 CJ2A
Port Alberni, B.C.
Canada