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----- Original Message -----
From: Gary J. Tolosa
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 11:24 PM
Subject: RE: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run (UPDATE)


Thanks again for the great input/guidance, here is what I found....

I first checked the accelerator pump and verified gas is getting
into the carb.

Next, I checked for a spark on the spark plug, I did the test as
DJ described, holding the line 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on
and tried to start, I did not see a spark, but was not sure about
the distance of the line to the plug since the line has a cover on
the end. So I removed the plug, connected the line and tried it
that way - no spark was visible (finally the crummy lights in my
garage were good for something).

I then checked the positive line to the coil (with the ignition on)
for power. I have power at the coil.

I then checked the points (again with the ignition on) and got
a spark.

I then checked the line at the top of the coil for spark, but did
not see any spark.

So, unless I did not do a test above properly (entirely possible),
I think I may have a bad coil. I did remove the coil, it seems to
have liquid inside, I heard once they can dry up and go bad.

Seems kind of strange, I would loose the coil like that though. Just
idling a few minutes.

Also, if the coil is bad, would anyone have a NAPA part number
for the 12v coil that fits the original mount? I did take my old
coil to my FLAPS but the highly motivated person behind the
counter said he had no way to test my coil and that he was
not sure what coil I had, since the original was a 6v and mine
has been converted to 12v, he then found a coil that "should
work" for $60.00, and also said the part is not returnable. Now
that's customer service. Needless to say, I decided to hold
on that offer.

Oh yea, I almost forgot, I did check the plugs, they all seem
to have had a black layer of crud built up, so I did replace them
all. But, this did not solve the issue, sorry Dr.

I think we are getting close...
Please advise on what you folks think.

Thanks again.

Gary




-----Original Message-----
From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of kr98664
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:22 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] FW: Dang - it won't run

--- In WillysTech@...
<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gary J. Tolosa" <gtolosa@...>
wrote:
>
> I had submitted this yesterday with only one response, which
was helpful
>

Well, let's consider it was running okay within recent history,
so
odds are likely against any sort of catastrophic failure. My
first
thoughts were the spark plugs have fouled. These old engines
aren't
exactly the cleanest burning things, running on the rich side
all the
time, and way more so when the engine is cold and choke is on.
It
doesn't take much to foul the plugs under those conditions. I
can
notice the plugs loading up on my 2A when idling for any length
of
time. I have to romp on the engine a little bit to blow out the
carbon. Often a few minutes of running with a heavy load, under
full
throttle, is all it will take. Back in the pre-PC days, we even
had a
special term for that, the (censored) tune-up.

Since you can't get it started to perform a (censored) tune-up,
I'd
suggest yanking the plugs for a look see. With any sort of build
up
other than a dry, light tan coating, the plugs may not fire.
Give 'em
a good cleaning with some aerosol electronic cleaner, dry 'em
with
compressed air, and reinstall them and see what happens. I'm
willing
to bet DJ's entire collection of Dukes of Hazzard action figures
(Yes,
even the talking Boss Hogg) that your engine will fire right
back up.

However, since I'm lazy, and yanking plugs involves wrenches,
there
are three quick checks I'd make. Make sure you have a spark,
like DJ
described. Keep in mind a spark may be strong enough to fire in
ambient air conditions, but not under compression inside a
cylinder.
No spark obviously equals bad. The presence of a spark doesn't
guarantee it's a useable spark, but don't get too bogged down
with
that yet.

I'd also suggest taking a looksee at the condition of the
ignition
points. They should be light grey on both sides and no rougher
than
very fine sandpaper, with no evidence of burning. I've no idea
why
this works, but pass a folded dollar bill back and forth between
the
points several times, and that will often clean up any light
crud.
The points need to be closed first, and once you spread them
open,
they'll clamp back down on the dollar bill.

The other lazy man's thing to check is for the presence of fuel
spraying down the carb throat when you cycle the throttle
linkage.
That's the accelerator pump at work, which tells you there is
fuel
present in the carb bowl. No guarantees the rest of the carb is
working properly, but at least you can quickly confirm it has
fuel.

Don't get too bogged down with any of these last checks. You can
check for the presence of fuel, spark, and clean the ignition
points
all in less than five minutes. After that, yank the plugs for a
good
cleaning before anything else. Make sure you let us know what
finally
fixes it, so I can rub it in DJ's face and finally get that
talking
Boss Hog doll of his. (Don't worry, DJ, I won't take your Daisy
Duke
memorabilia)

Regards,

Dr. Vern