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Superwinch Locking Hubs Now Removed
The Superwich hubs have been removed, but not in the way I had hoped. I
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bought a Allen driver to fit my impact driver, went home and gave it a shot. After several blows on the bolt the head was "stripped." So I resorted to Plan B by drilling out the bolt. This did slight damage to the hub because the bolt has a slightly tapered head. I think I will replace that bolt with a cap screw. If that doesn't work I may have to replace the hub. At least now I can completely disassemble the front hubs to clean and inspect the wheel and king pin bearings. Rodney Frey -----Original Message-----
From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On Behalf Of Keith Haw Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 3:06 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: Re: [WT] Re: Removing Superwinch Locking Hubs Mine came with allen drivers and screw drivers. I would think that standard 3/8" allens, for ratchet wrench, would work. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: Frey, Rodney To: WillysTech@... Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 12:41 PM Subject: RE: [WT] Re: Removing Superwinch Locking Hubs Thanks for this idea. Didn't think of that and I've got an impact driver. Is there an Allen driver attachment? rf -----Original Message----- From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On Behalf Of Keith Haw Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 2:20 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: Re: [WT] Re: Removing Superwinch Locking Hubs I use an Impact Driver like this, 93481 . Mine will work with screw, allen or nut driver attachments. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: John Francis To: WillysTech@... Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 12:00 PM Subject: [WT] Re: Removing Superwinch Locking Hubs Have you tried an air impact wrench? Johnb --- In WillysTech@..., "Frey, Rodney" <rodfrey@...> wrote: > > Good Morning, > > This group is a wonderful source for advice and support when we novices > run into problems. And I have run into a problem. > The 46CJ2A had Superwinch lockout hubs when I bought it. There is no > way to know when they were installed or how long since they were last > removed. I need to get them off so I can work on the brakes. The hubs > are bolted on with six hardened steel Allen head bolts. As one might > expect, all of the bolts came loose except one. I have used PB Blaster > on it, tapped on it, ruined two L-shaped Allen wrenches, bought a new > T-handle one last night that didn't do the job, gently heated the hub > hoping that differential expansion rates would provide some help. > Bottom line: bolt is still in the hub. > > Question: What advice can you offer to get this stubborn bolt out? > > Rodney Frey > 46 CJ2A > 48CJ2A > North Newton, KS 67117 |
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Re: [WT] Idea going round in my head... [Hybrid conversion]
Thanks Robert!
Its true and I think I found the ideal spot for where the motor could go! Right next to the drive shaft to the rear differential. behind the transfercase there is plenty of space on my CJ7! The motor could be geared to the axis where the drive shaft connects this way one would have the option to drive electrically with Transfercase or gearbox in neutral, and one could even do electric 4WD! Those Briggs and Straton etek motors or newer Perm(anent Magnet) 132 are amazingly light and small at 8-15 HP. I have to start make some spread sheets on torque from standstill, max speed and potential range. Of course I expect to find problems there... I know that most electric conversions replace the motor and use the gear box to gear for torque or speed as necessary! This etek went for just over 300 bucks... On 9/19/07, Carla van Linge en Robert Verheij < carla.robert@...> wrote:
-- Tobias Gogolin cel. (646) 124 32 82 skype: moontogo messenger: usertogo@... You develop an open source motor controller at |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
SF
Man,I can relate. Body work take a bunch of time. I have the cab and bed left to paint. But, those are the two biggest pieces. The rest of the parts all turned out pretty darn good. I don't like this paint tho. But, too late to use something else.
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SF ----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis To: WillysTech@... Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 2:43 AM Subject: Re: [WT] Coming Out! That's a bummer. It looks great in the pictures! My rear fenders took the most time as they were really beat up. If I did it again I would just buy new fiberglass ones. The fellow that is doing my body work and paint is retired and works in his garage. It takes him a while to get things done but he does good work at a fair price. I'm still waiting on the bed and rear fenders. Once all is done he wants the assembled truck back for two days to "chicken shit" it, he says. There is still a lot to do on this truck and I wish I had more time to spend on it. Keep us posted as to your progress. John --- In WillysTech@..., Scott Strudwick <scott@...> wrote: > > John congrats. Your about 3-4 weeks ahead of me. Looks Great!! I had to > send mine back to a different body shop as the first one screwed the cab > up big time. I am suing the original body shop as they painted directly > over rust and didn't prep it properly and just did an overall #@&@ (*^ > job. Doors were not hung properly, 27 items on the list of items done > improperly. They had over 1/2" of mud (bondo) on one of the rear fenders > alone. Also applied the bondo over rust without prepping it properly. It > has been a painful process dealing with this. I should have it back in > about 3 weeks than I can finish the wiring and get it running. I have a > couple of pictures of when I assembled the body last week before sending > it to the new body shop. > > c= > > or under photos "Strud's 53 Pickup Progress" > > Scott "Strud" Strudwick > strudsjeep@... > www.strudsplace.com > Amsoil Dealer > -o|||||o- > 49 CJ-2A > 50 CJ-3A > 53 475 4WD PU > 57 FC-170 > 59 CJ-5 Jeep-A-Trench > 65 J-200 Gladiator > 69 CJ-5 225 V-6 > 01 XJ Cherokee Ltd > Esko, MN > > > > John Francis wrote: > > > > Tonight the Willys moved on its own power for the first time in 14 > > months. A simple trip out of the barn and back in was enough to break > > open a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming out" in > > the photo section for pictures. > > > > John > > > > > |
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l226 mounts
Morning All, I bought a wagon last March that has blown 225 V6 installed. I bought a 225 block with the idea of building a new one. I am now toying with idea of putting a L226 back in as was originally.
I have a good running motor ready to go. Problem is original mounts were cut out. Question is, are reproduction mounts available or do I need to have them made? I have a chassis from a 1962 FC150. Would mounts be the same as a 1960 wagon? If so I could use them. The location should not be an issue as I can see where old mounts were fastened to wagon chassis. Any advice at this point would help. Thanks, Scott |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
John, I know how you feel. I was in motorcycle crash in April of 06 at which time I lost my left leg. My CJ sat till all winter before the crash and until this summer when I got back to being able to work on it. When it fired up I cried.
Gary Proud owner of a 1951 CJ3A In Kingston, NY --------------------------------- Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
That's a bummer. It looks great in the pictures! My rear fenders
took the most time as they were really beat up. If I did it again I would just buy new fiberglass ones. The fellow that is doing my body work and paint is retired and works in his garage. It takes him a while to get things done but he does good work at a fair price. I'm still waiting on the bed and rear fenders. Once all is done he wants the assembled truck back for two days to "chicken shit" it, he says. There is still a lot to do on this truck and I wish I had more time to spend on it. Keep us posted as to your progress. John --- In WillysTech@..., Scott Strudwick <scott@...> wrote: had to send mine back to a different body shop as the first one screwedthe cab up big time. I am suing the original body shop as they painteddirectly over rust and didn't prep it properly and just did an overall #@&@(*^ job. Doors were not hung properly, 27 items on the list of itemsdone improperly. They had over 1/2" of mud (bondo) on one of the rearfenders alone. Also applied the bondo over rust without prepping itproperly. It has been a painful process dealing with this. I should have it backin about 3 weeks than I can finish the wiring and get it running. Ihave a couple of pictures of when I assembled the body last week beforesending it to the new body shop. c= break out" inopen a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming the photo section for pictures. |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
Chris Lange
Way to go John!!! Have one for me as well!!!
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Congrats! Chris Cortland, NY ----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis To: WillysTech@... Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 7:50 PM Subject: [WT] Coming Out! Tonight the Willys moved on its own power for the first time in 14 months. A simple trip out of the barn and back in was enough to break open a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming out" in the photo section for pictures. John |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
John congrats. Your about 3-4 weeks ahead of me. Looks Great!! I had to send mine back to a different body shop as the first one screwed the cab up big time. I am suing the original body shop as they painted directly over rust and didn't prep it properly and just did an overall #@&@(*^ job. Doors were not hung properly, 27 items on the list of items done improperly. They had over 1/2" of mud (bondo) on one of the rear fenders alone. Also applied the bondo over rust without prepping it properly. It has been a painful process dealing with this. I should have it back in about 3 weeks than I can finish the wiring and get it running. I have a couple of pictures of when I assembled the body last week before sending it to the new body shop.
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or under photos "Strud's 53 Pickup Progress" Scott "Strud" Strudwick strudsjeep@... www.strudsplace.com Amsoil Dealer -o|||||o- 49 CJ-2A 50 CJ-3A 53 475 4WD PU 57 FC-170 59 CJ-5 Jeep-A-Trench 65 J-200 Gladiator 69 CJ-5 225 V-6 01 XJ Cherokee Ltd Esko, MN John Francis wrote:
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Re: [WT] L head starter
Keith Haw
Very true Ric.
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You would think I would have figured that out as long as I have been around jeeps. But guess I keep forgetting that "things change" when it comes to Jeeps, especially old Jeeps. Keith ----- Original Message -----
From: Mighty Mo To: WillysTech@... Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 5:31 PM Subject: RE: [WT] L head starter The late CJ3A used a 129 tooth flywheel and a key start "closed nose" starter. That requires a flywheel and bellhousing change. The other possibility is a MZ4163 starter from a Henry-J. That is a key start that fits the 124 tooth flywheel. I'm not sure but I believe a starter rebuilder can make a foot start CJ3A starter MZ4137 into the MZ4163. Keith, "cruising the web" is great for information. However to understand what you have read the plate on the on the starter and count the teeth. Just because it came from a CJ3A doesn't mean it is a CJ3A. Ric -. Toledo, Ohio Home of the World Famous JeepR 1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo 1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue 1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy 1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer. 1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612 1963-5? - Wagoneer 1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt 1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L 2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle Never Forget September 11, 2001 Freedom isn't free <> ** ** Constants Aren't **** ** Variables Won't **** ** _____ From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On Behalf Of Keith Haw Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 2:17 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter Hey John Was it a floor starter switch or the manual floor linkage style? Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: John Wickersham To: WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> ups.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:59 AM Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of this required any changes to the starter itself, and its basic hook-up. Pineneedle David Hoelzeman <mathman@jeep- <mailto:mathman%40jeep-trucks.com> trucks.com> wrote: >and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sorta >kool, and was made for only a year or two. Used a bit more than "a year or two": Used in the wagons from 1946 through 1951. Used in the trucks from 1947 through 1951. Used in the Jeepsters from 1948 through 1950/51. Used in the 3As for the entire production run (I think.) David '50 4WD Pickup |
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Re: Coming Out!
That must be one great feeling! your p/u looks really good by the
way! I am hoping to get our wag up on its own power soon but it has been sitting for 25 years. Great job on your resto! --- In WillysTech@..., "John Francis" <mrkringles@...> wrote: break open a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming out"in the photo section for pictures. |
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Re: [WT] L head starter
John, On he subject of flat towing, do you tie into the Jeep brakes?
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How?? PRuit -----Original Message-----
From: John Wickersham <johnwick@...> To: WillysTech@... Sent: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 10:59:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of this required any changes to the starter itself, and its basic hook-up. Pineneedle David Hoelzeman <mathman@...> wrote: >and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sorta kool, and was made for only a year or two. Used a bit more than "a year or two": Used in the wagons from 1946 through 1951. Used in the trucks from 1947 through 1951. Used in the Jeepsters from 1948 through 1950/51. Used in the 3As for the entire production run (I think.) David '50 4WD Pickup [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
That's me. I generally don't drink, but thought this occasion
warranted it! John --- In WillysTech@..., donthedickens@... wrote: for you... break open a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming out"in the photo section for pictures.
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Re: [WT] L head starter
The late CJ3A used a 129 tooth flywheel and a key start "closed nose"
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starter. That requires a flywheel and bellhousing change. The other possibility is a MZ4163 starter from a Henry-J. That is a key start that fits the 124 tooth flywheel. I'm not sure but I believe a starter rebuilder can make a foot start CJ3A starter MZ4137 into the MZ4163. Keith, "cruising the web" is great for information. However to understand what you have read the plate on the on the starter and count the teeth. Just because it came from a CJ3A doesn't mean it is a CJ3A. Ric -. Toledo, Ohio Home of the World Famous JeepR 1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo 1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue 1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy 1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer. 1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612 1963-5? - Wagoneer 1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt 1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L 2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle Never Forget September 11, 2001 Freedom isn't free <> ** ** Constants Aren't **** ** Variables Won't **** ** _____ From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On Behalf Of Keith Haw Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 2:17 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter Hey John Was it a floor starter switch or the manual floor linkage style? Keith ----- Original Message -----
From: John Wickersham To: WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> ups.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:59 AM Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of this required any changes to the starter itself, and its basic hook-up. Pineneedle David Hoelzeman <mathman@jeep- <mailto:mathman%40jeep-trucks.com> trucks.com> wrote: and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sortaUsed a bit more than "a year or two": Used in the wagons from 1946 through 1951. Used in the trucks from 1947 through 1951. Used in the Jeepsters from 1948 through 1950/51. Used in the 3As for the entire production run (I think.) David '50 4WD Pickup |
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Motor mounts
Keith Haw
OK, next problem. I need a set of motor mounts. Not the rubber part but the mounts that rivet to the frame. My 2a frame doesn't have any on it and the ones I picked up used are welded to the frame sections. I've been working on them but don't think I will be able to cut them free without screwing up the mounts. So, is there a place the sell repo mounts?
Keith |
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Re: [WT] Coming Out!
WAY TO GO JOHN!!!!!! Ain't it a great feeling?!?!?!?! So glad for you...
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Is that you with the bottle of Bubbly? Don ================== In a message dated 9/20/2007 7:51:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mrkringles@... writes: Tonight the Willys moved on its own power for the first time in 14 months. A simple trip out of the barn and back in was enough to break open a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming out" in the photo section for pictures. John *** See what's new at |
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Re: [WT] L head starter
Doing what you did should have required changes to the starter if it
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was the factory setup. Sounds like someone had possibly swapped in a 2A setup. David '50 4WD Pickup On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 10:59:40 -0700 (PDT), John Wickersham wrote:
My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of this required any changes to the starter itself, and its basic hook-up. |
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Re: [WT] L head starter
Keith Haw
Hey John
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Was it a floor starter switch or the manual floor linkage style? Keith ----- Original Message -----
From: John Wickersham To: WillysTech@... Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:59 AM Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of this required any changes to the starter itself, and its basic hook-up. Pineneedle David Hoelzeman <mathman@...> wrote: >and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sorta >kool, and was made for only a year or two. Used a bit more than "a year or two": Used in the wagons from 1946 through 1951. Used in the trucks from 1947 through 1951. Used in the Jeepsters from 1948 through 1950/51. Used in the 3As for the entire production run (I think.) David '50 4WD Pickup |
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Re: [WT] L head starter
My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of this required any changes to the starter itself, and its basic hook-up.
Pineneedle David Hoelzeman <mathman@...> wrote: >and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sorta kool, and was made for only a year or two.Used a bit more than "a year or two": Used in the wagons from 1946 through 1951. Used in the trucks from 1947 through 1951. Used in the Jeepsters from 1948 through 1950/51. Used in the 3As for the entire production run (I think.) David '50 4WD Pickup |
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Re: [WT] L head starter
Delbert Clear
David--you surely are correct--I was thinking only of "tub"
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jeeps. Completely forgot about all the other applications.. Seems to me I read/heard somewhere that it was used on the CJ3 for only about year, but I wouldn't bet the farm on my memory. Anyhow I think we can all agree that they are somewhat scarce these days since conversion to solenoids and dash button or dash mounted keyed switches was seemingly so popular. I personally deconverted my 46 2A bsack to the OE floor switch that you have to be a right ankle contortionist to operate. It's really a beast with huge winter boots on, and is clearly vulnerable to gobs of salt-laden slush. del clear At 12:03 PM 9/20/2007, you wrote:
and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sortaUsed a bit more than "a year or two": |
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