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Had a bit of a mishap with my 1991 Warrior, hit something with the right side view mirror and broke the center cross brace. Oddly enough that's the only thing that broke; the mirrors themselves came out of it fine. This photo shows the driver side brace, what I need is the passenger side brace (might be the same, not sure). Anyone know where I can get one, or perhaps any of you have one for sale?

Good morning, all. The furnace in my 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse does not regulate the heat very well.. it cycles from uncomfortably warm to uncomfortably cold and back again. I'm thinking maybe replacing the 34-year-old thermostat with a more modern-technology one might help. Any of you have experience with this and can offer suggestions? Thanks... Rick in NH

I bought this dolphin easily 10 years ago. It was in pretty good shape, but there were a few minor leaks in the cabover area. As the area of the cabover was prone to leaking, I decided to take a drastic step and removed the window, sealing it with plywood then fiberglassing over it. I also decided that some of the corners, between the wall and roofing metal, had water leaks so along the ply had puffed out from water expansion. There were spots where the corner metal did not fully cover the joint. As we were fiberglassing in the front window panel, I decided to fiberglass over the corners. Here it is, many years later. I've pulled the tarp off with the intention of getting Dolphin on the road. Of course, I can't get it started, and it's been diagnosed to be a fuel pump problem, but the problem I'm here to ask about is there has been moisture that has gotten into the camper. I'm wondering if it's from where the fiberglass covers the metal corners, as it's impossible to tell whether it's 100% sealed. Though we put 2 coats of Kool Seal on, the Kool seal has come off in spots. I'm wondering how to seal off roof. 1. Do I need to remove some of the Kool Seal so anything I apply is on bare metal/fiberglass? 2. Should I get a can of Dicor RP-CRC-1 EPDM Rubber Roof Acrylic Coating Part 2 - White, 1 Gallon off a washed, cleaned roof. Can I se the Part 2 without using the Part 1? 3. Should I just use Dicor 501LSW-1 RV Rubber Roof Sealant Self Leveling Caulk where I think it needs to be applied? 4. Should I just run RV Roof Tape White along the edges where the fiberglass ends on the metal roof? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, I removed the AC and replaced it with MaxxAir, using new gaskets, so I don't think the leaks come from the open ports. I think it's the Kool Seal.

UPDATE: The Groups.io team has now fixed this glitch. --- The Messages List for this group is temporarily not loading at the main online site. Explanation unknown. A fix is coming soon hopefully. Sorry for any inconvenience. Please check back often for continuing discussions about all things related to Toyota RVs. However even though the main Messages List is currently down, you can still enjoy our several WIKI articles here: /g/toyota-campers/wiki And our voluminous FILES Section here where you can read articles all day about Toyota RVs. /g/toyota-campers/files Thank you for your continuing membership in the longest-running online forum about Toyota RVs! Tika - group owner/ moderator

Spotted this on FB Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/share/eGXcAu9fPJocTrLy/?mibextid=kL3p88 Sounds to me that it's likely suffered a lot of water damage, but that's just a guess.

Due to accident we lost our motor home, insurance gave us good settlement. Here are a few new parts I want to sell. The mirror $185 and 3 valve stems $20 each.

I've owned this camper since 2008 and it's great for one or two people. I had just done repairs on the fuel system (new tank and injectors etc) and when I cranked it at my mechanics it made a banging noise - he said it was most likely a valve. His vision is going and he's not up to digging into it but he did find a buildable core that comes with it. This has been a great little camper and I hope someone will buy it and fix it. It's a V6. Here are some pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ym7MSQyTkCV6kKBF7. It's located south of Tucson.

Jim, a new awning can be had for much less than $1000, unless you are talking premium fabric. If you want to sell it, you might get $100 - $150 (Including the cordage). However, it does rain a good bit in the east and you may find it useful to keep. Put a piece of gorilla tape on the tear, and you will stay drier.

This is about what Roy Vannoy said here about his Nissan Sunrader Shorty's brakes. I bought a 1986 18 foot Nissan Sunrader Aug 2022. The brakes are sooooo like I don't have brakes. I have to pull back on the steering wheel and step down on brake HARD, to get Sunrader to stop. One time I was trying to stop on a steep downhill, and put all my body weight down on the brake pedal, and "not much stopping was happening". I almost rear ended car waiting at stop sign at bottom of the hill. I am almost afraid to drive that Sunrader, cos the brake pedal doesn't have much effect. People who don't know these ToyHomes say "it is the weight of the camper". No not true. My same Toyota 18 foot Sunrader stops on a dime with little pressure on the brake. One time I got a red light running ticket (photo) because the light turned yellow and I hesitated too long, knowing that if I stopped, all my groceries I just bought for camping would be rolling all over the floor, cos it stops so suddenly. So, I got a red light running ticket for my indecision! But I got out of it, AZ requires personal service by human, and I proved to the judge, they served wrong person in another state. I don't know what is the cause of my Nissan Sunrader brakes requiring so much pressure and effort to stop the vehicle, like Roy seems to know about his Sunrader "strong front, weak rear". See what Roy wrote below. I am assuming poor braking power is a design that comes with Nissan D21 Hardbody brakes not being as effective as Toyota brakes, because I own same Sunrader (1982)on Toyota chassis that stops SO GOOD, THE WHOLE RV PITCHES FORWARD, when I step lightly on the brake! It is hard to get some mechanic to resolve this, when they do not know how Nissan is SUPPOSED TO BRAKE! Anyone here know? I don't know either, I only know my Toyota HAS OPPOSITE BRAKING, so instantly effective, that RV lurches forward. Julia c. Re: Rear Brakes? From: roy vannoy Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2023 04:07:25 PST Robert keep us posted, I have had the same issues with my brakes since I have owned 18 Nissan Sunrader. Lots of front braking, weak rear. I order all my parts from Rock Auto all fit except the rear brakes shoes. My shoes were to big, I kept them for reference. I'm Still looking for a set of new shoes. My Nissan did not have a proportion valve when I bought it, don't know if it ever came with one. I'm hoping the new shoes will help. Roy is responding to what Robert Himler said on Nov 13: I am sort of leaning towards glazed brake shoes, thus wanting to replace them with something better than stock, or stock parts. Also gutting, or totally replacing the proportioner valve with a tee fitting. New cylinders, hoses, steel brake lines. Locking up the rear end vs locking up the front end? I will take "Neither for $200 Alex"... I would be fine with locking both ends at the same pedal pressure because my foot can control that situation...... See more by going to that date on this forum. -- Julia - Scottsdale, AZ

Has anyone had the glass out of the frame, (and put it back in) on Sunrader rear dinette models? Any words of wisdom you can share about your experience getting it back in?

Hi, I am sorry Tika, I have not been on Toyota Campers for years it seems. I just realized that Toyota Motorhome Club on Facebook is not a continuation of Toyota Campers Group. I had to dig in my yahoo emails to find Toyota Campers Group. I have really appreciated the info available in this group. I hope that the moderators here think about posting about this group on Facebook Toyota Motorhome Club maybe once a month. There is a great files section here that has accumulated lots of good info over the years. I put my 1985 Dolphin Manual there. Take care everybody.

Hi, I'm from the Netherlands and here is local few to no info on my Toyota Sunrader. It's a 87 2,4 efi automatic. I bought it a few months ago and did 2 trips. I think there is a issue with the overdrive, it does not respond to the switch on the gear selector, since it has never worked I don't know if it is always on or off, the OD light above the radio burns when switching on the lights. Other question, what is the preferred Tyre pressure for the 6 lugs rear axle? I hope someone can help Thanks Paul

Anyone have a line on a structurally and mechanically sound Gran Sport or Sandtana available in the Southwest? Am ready to replace mine. (Photo of mine in better days for attention.) Looking for one in reasonably restorable condition. Not looking for a completely redone (or transferred to a Taco chassis) cherried-out $20,000 to $30,000 one. Don't want a gutted-out box.

I am thinking about selling my 1987 Toyota dolphin in California. I found one close by a different layout but says the same year, for 14k. How do would you price yours out? Everything works. I also have solar. No AC or water heater though. 80k miles. I am unfortunately not using it like I wanted.

I purchased my Sunrader on 1986 Nissan D21 Hardbody chassis automatic trans, Aug 3, 2022 with 48,000 miles on it. The tires were 20 years old! Around Dec 17 2022, I tried to start the truck at 9 am to go to Discount Tire to get the tires replaced. I didn’t note the temp but it was cold, maybe 45 degrees. The truck would not start, engine was trying with a normal cranking sound that comes with turning the ignition, but on and on and on and on it cranks....but the engine would not stay on where I could put it in drive and be on my way. I spent two days trying to get a tow truck to tow me to a 5 Yelp star mechanic who was willing to have my “8 foot RV with dually wheels on his lot On the third day, the engine just start normally, right away, with no delayed cranking. I drove it to that mechanic for needed repairs, including changing the fuel filter and he started the engine, trying to replicate the No Start, every day FOR A MONTH! This included cold days that he said frost was on his car (don’t know the temps). But it started fine every time, so we gave up. Then Jan 20, 2023, I drove it to Tucson for an event and slept in the desert. It would not start at 9 am 32 degrees. But by 1 pm, it was warmer maybe 55 degrees, it started right away. The next day it would not start again, it was 32 degrees 9 am, but did start in the afternoon. This happened again in the Spring but it was 80 degrees. And again few days ago Jan 4, 2024, when it was 45 degrees outside. But it started fine right away the next day when it was 55 degrees. I am about to go to a Toyota Motorhome Rally in Quartzsite AZ. I THINK the No Starting has to do with a fuel feeding issue maybe the fuel pump doesn’t pump enough gas to start in cold weather (even though it happened also at 80 degrees). Maybe it is faulty fuel injector? How do you tell which one? Also over the last 15 months I used at least 6 bottles of Techron or other fuel injector cleaner. What causes could this be, if I had the fuel filter replaced? Would you recommend that I get a new fuel pump installed, if you think that mechanics inside pump doesn’t work well in colder weather. If so, do you recommend I buy new instead of “remanuf”? I am afraid to get stranded in Quartzsite AZ 150 miles away, and then cannot find a tow truck to tow it “where”. I know of no mechanic there. -- Julia - Scottsdale, AZ

From the Toyota-Campers Group — Wishing warm vibes to all our members: whether you be in a warm climate or cold; whatever your faith persuasion or not; and especially affirming a resounding call for peace on earth more than ever! And may Santa bring YOU all you wish for! Tika, Owner/moderator Toyota-Campers Group Now in our 24th year - yes!

Sorry to pester y'all about V6 valve adjustments, but here goes. The 1993 Warrior has 100K miles on it, and I doubt anyone has ever looked at the valves. My local old mechanic said they "sounded fine," the rig runs great, and to leave them alone. However, someone on Facebook (!) said that you couldn't hear the valves on these campers go bad, and to check the compression. I have a new mechanic and sent the camper to him yesterday, to see if he could figure out why the check engine light was on (old mechanic couldn't, said to put tape across it -- as did everyone in my family -- but that bugs me). I added a note to the keys at the drop box asking if he could check the compression. Assuming the compression is still good, should the valves be "adjusted?" I love the camper and am trying to be proactive -- put a new V6 engine in my 2002 Toyota 4Runner and it was a little over $6K and took nearly 5 months! Thanks, Sue Crowe Talking Rock GA

I know it is December (LOL), but I am thinking of possible additions for next year. I have an 84 Dolphin. Coach is gone, I am building a frame up brand new coach. I have had this unit for about 10 to 12 years and the AC unit has never worked. Instead of having this unit repaired (I have heard some very high prices here for that) I am considering purchasing an aftermarket unit and installing it myself. I worked on AC units many years ago and still have most of the needed equipment. Does anyone have any recommendations on possible units to look at? Thanks George Sent from Mail for Windows Virus-free.www.avg.com

You could use these if you don't want to run separate high powered backup lights https://www.amazon.com/RONSTA-Trailer-Taillights-Running-Waterproof/dp/B0BX8MJBNW/ref=sr_1_36?hvadid=616931166607&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033061&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=604075446422539072&hvtargid=kwd-962656028&hydadcr=24631_13611696&keywords=led+trailer+tail+lights&qid=1699311615&sr=8-36 Or just search for 6" oval trailer lights and pick what you like. note that I ran a wire over from the taillights to the backup spotlights. You could also run spotlights from your ladder or bumper, or ? The LED Flasher replacement is not a direct plug in replacement, you must make some spade terminal adaptors to wire it in. You can probably find a direct plug in for more $'s, look for an 86 toyota pickup LED 3 spade flasher if you want easy, more expensive... https://www.amazon.com/CF-13-Electronic-Flasher-0-02A-20A-Signal/dp/B08X6H33ZF/ref=asc_df_B08X6H33ZF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=548938427687&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17070552584303219042&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033061&hvtargid=pla-1634637287192&psc=1&mcid=43bb7648bc593666bf244de149c3c7cb Then Inside of my Sunrader rear dinner huge rear window, up top center, I have a fairly blinding LED spotlight wired into one of the rear ceiling lights with a led blue glowing switch. If I need additional lights backing up, or if something goes "Bump in the night, in the woods" I can throw a lot of light on it, if I want. Up there inside the window is also my Rear View Camera that is constantly on when I am driving and sends to a receiver that fits over my normal dash rear view mirror. All of my lights are LED, except the headlights. I'm still playing with the best headlights, LED, HID, Xenon Halogen...