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In case anyone is interested. Not mine, I saw this 1990 Toyota Itasca for sale at a McDonalds in Clearwater, Florida. The phone # was 301-535-8435 and it has Maryland plates. I hope this helps someone... Rob vwrobb@...

A few tips. An LED flasher must be used with LED bulbs or they won't flash, they will just stay on. An LED flasher will also flash conventional bulbs so you don't have to change out your front bulbs if you don't want to. To use the cheap LED flasher I listed, make (3) 3" long 14 gauge wires and crimp a female spade to one end and a male spade connector to the other end of each wire. The female ends go onto the flasher, while the male ends go into the flasher socket. Study the new and old flashers to determine which wire goes where. I then taped the male ends into a type of plug which positioned them properly to plug into the socket. I have yet to find the exact Toyota LED flasher that you simply just plug in. I wasted a bunch of time looking for used or new old stock (NOS) Bargeman tail lights, which were hard to come by. And by looking at the slipshod way the originals were wired, I had to ask myself if I really wanted them, even if I found new ones? So I just built these, they kind of remind me of the 1958 Fords, kind of retro cool. Just replace the "Fairlane" with Sunrader Classic... Plexiglass: you need to predrill mounting holes for screwing into the body a little larger than the screws or you run the risk of cracking the plexiglass at the hole.

Closer view, these are the common trailer, semi truck lights. I will track down a link, but now sending from my phone camera. Will get to computer with details.

These are on a bike rack angled out and back below the rear window

The lens on my Sunrader taillights are so cracked, brittle, and cloudy, the plastic is falling out. There are plenty of RV/ Trailer taillight replacements on Amazon, but they don't even measure 11 inches wide or long including the frame. My frame is 21 inches long and 5 inches high. Each of the three lens is 6.5 inches long and 3.25 inches high. That is what I want as replacements, as close as possible. See photo below. A fellow in my camping group cut me 2 pieces of white plexiglass-like material the size of my frame, to put the 3 lens in (taillights , backup, and turn signal lens) and make my own. I remember someone posted they made their own like this. Would appreciate sources for longer (wider) BIGGER lens like what I have now or better yet, already assembled taillight replacements that are as BIG and LONG as the Sunrader originals. Julia - Scottsdale, AZ and San Diego, CA

Anybody know the right way to remove the driver side A pillar cover on a 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse? I've seen several videos on the internet but they are all for 1986 pickups or 1997 4-Runners or everything except a 1991 truck. And none of them look anything like what I have here, and the instructions don't apply. Thanks... Eric in NH

The local tire shops around here seem to be having trouble sourcing the Hankook 185R14C load index 102/100, load capacity 1764 lb dual, 1874 lb single. I'm not married to Hankooks although they have given me trouble-free service for the last 12 years. Anyone have any recommendations for another manufacturer that sells a high-quality tire? I've seen many I never heard of before (Iris, Nexen, Achilles, Thunderer, Zeetex, Accelera) and a few that I have (Yokohama, Bridgestone, Firestone) at prices all over the map from $60 to $175. I'd prefer to stick with well-known brands and something my local tire shops can source, that will give me at least the service these Hankooks have... looking for quality over price. Thanks... Eric in NH

YOKOHAMA tires ? are the only tire brand we run on our customized 1993 6-Cylinder Gospel Chariot: AKA: 1993 Toyota Winnebago Warrior. In the 1960’s, our missionary vans all ran YOKOHAMA Tires due to their uncompromising wear and tear and extended road life they have provided us, international missions and historically, military operations as well… etc… Happy Mini-Toy Trails!!! Mike & Hana Yokohama ??USA?? ??From ??he Gospel Chariot??

Is there a "right" way to lift a toyhouse on a hoist that's unique to the toyhouse? Some hoists, you just drive onto the hoist and lift it up. Others, you have to lift the vehicle by its frame so the wheels hang loose for changing tires, doing brake jobs, etc. It's the latter I'm wondering about... seems like you don't want to try to lift it by the rear frame extensions which may not be strong enough to support the load... same reason you don't want to try to jack it up by the rear bumper when changing a tire, which an RV dealer's service shop tried to do on mine before I caught him (before any damage was done) and made him stop. Soon after that, I put a "NO LIFT" sign on my rear bumper... just blows me away that I had to do that. Eric in NH

For some reason I can't find an authoritative source for the redline RPM in our V6 toyhouses. I've seen everything from 6000 to 7500. What is it really, and where can I find an authoritative source? My owner's manual is no help. Eric in NH

I can't find it now but I read somewhere once that the tires on our toyhouses should be replaced after 12 years regardless of wear. Mine are Hankook load range D (65 PSI max and I run them at 60) that look to be in very good condition with plenty of rubber and no visible deterioration. They are 12 years old this year. We're considering replacing them prior to going on a 4000++ mile trip next spring, from NH to MN to TN to GA and back to NH. If these were yours, would you replace them? Eric in NH

Nice One 30K https://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1984-bandit-in-fort-collins-co/

Not mine. Just saw it on craigslist https://jackson.craigslist.org/rvs/d/harrisville-toyota-mini-cruiser-15-mpg/7681972662.html Liz

I could use a bit more headlight intensity when driving my toyhouse at night. Anyone have any results they can report on LED or other HID headlights, along with a good place to get them? I've seen prices from $40 to $400, not looking to get ridiculous with this. Thanks... Eric in NH

I'm told that in the 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse, the fuel pump is immersed in the gas inside the gas tank (????) and that's how it gets its cooling. So, if I run the fuel tank dry or nearly so, I run the risk of overheating and burning out the fuel pump. That sounds like an OWT to me but anything is possible I guess, so is it true? (I'm aware of the other, and more realistic, issue of aspirating junk into the fuel pump if the gas runs too low.) Eric in NH

I've had this camper since 2008 and it's been great, I'm just not using it anymore. It's a really unique vehicle, great for one or two people (I was told I should mention it's best for people on the smaller side). I've gotten so many compliments on it. In the process of getting it ready to sell, I had it at the mechanics, and one time I went to start it and it made a banging noise! He said it was most likely a valve. He found an engine from a friend and says it's a buildable core. So that comes with it. I did recently replace the fabric in the pop top area. Everything works, it's a 3 way fridge. Someone along the way removed the bathroom. I do have the cushions that go with the table in back. I apologize that the inside kind of looks a mess, I still need to clean it up, the mechanic wants it out of his way so I'm going ahead and advertising. It's located an hour south of Tucson AZ. Here are some pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ym7MSQyTkCV6kKBF7

I happened across this ad... https://www.toyotarvforsale.com/1989-sunrader-in-gilsum-nh/ I know nothing about it and have no connection with it but I know that Sunraders tend to be highly sought after so I though someone here might be interested. Located in Gilsum, NH. Eric in NH

Is there anyone else here besides johnjab01 who has done the 3.0L to 3.4L engine swap in a V6 toyhouse? Can anyone recommend a shop in New England, New York, New Jersey, or Pennsylvania that can do the swap (meaning a shop that has done it before and knows all the details)? I asked a local (Manchester, NH) shop that specializes in Toyotas and after they turned me down flat, here are their reasons: 1. Will need wiring harnesses and engine computer, custom wiring. 2. Exhaust work. 3. You would be looking at 40-60hrs of labor at $135 hrs most local shops. 4. Plus cost of engine, wiring, Exhaust, cooling system.... 5. It would be a lot cheaper to sell it and buy a newer model. Does that sound reasonable? I've read (here and elsewhere) that the swap is more of a plug-and-play than that. Does it really need a new wiring harness and computer, for example? Why the need to work on the cooling system? As for "selling it and buying a newer model", there aren't any newer models that I can find that don't have the same 3.0L engine (right?) until you get into the Winnebago View and Itasca Navion from the mid-2000's, and they start at $50K for a decent used one up to $200K+ for a new one. Bottom line, for those of you who have done it, was it worth the expense and effort? Did you do the work yourself (I'm not physically capable of doing that even if I knew how) or hire a shop to do it? Thanks... Rick in NH

Another post about the new Itasca. The first time I drove the camper was from the cabin to the mechanic (long story), and it was like driving a Bouncy House full of hyperactive teenagers. It came with the original shocks (and Boy Howdy are they toast!) so the camper is in the shop getting four new Bilstein shocks (24-002585 and 24-184832). When we got it on the lift, it was no surprise that one air bag doesn't hold air, and the other is just AWOL! Thank goodness the springs looked, well, springy! There are two Air Lifts that seem to fit the truck, the 571113 and 88113. Do y'all have any preferences? The mechanic mentioned installing air lifts that had a built in compressor, but I think for the several hundred dollars more, I can just put air in them the old fashioned way. Or am I just being cheap? Sigh ... we haven't checked the brakes (they seemed mushy to me) or the timing belt yet .... Many thanks, Sue Crowe (rapidly spending the Repair Budget)

After about 200 miles the drivers seat ( mine and the car) becomes uncomfortable... Any suggestions on seat cushions Or replacing seats with aftermarket seats.