Fixing the unrepairable IC7000
This email thread has great timing. Have 3 of these awesome rigs and a previous one lost the cap. Sent it to a friend hamrepair.com in SA Texas.
Just have that failure again, now I'm inspired to fix it myself.
The components to check are 4R7 and you lost me with 20v caps? Where do they go?
I'm going to take pics of this for this group when I go through this.
73-
W1JCW
John
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Andrew Lenton Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2025 4:28 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [ic7000] Fixing the unrepairable IC7000 Hi, When the two 12v tants are nearly all SC after 20 years, if one holds the power on button in for too long this takes the 4R7 resistor on the underside of the logic power supply board. The resistor is 5125 1 Watt device. I have had over 10 units with this fault some 20v caps will fit 73 Andrew 73 Andrew ?Get BlueMail for Android ? On 9 Feb 2025, 04:39, at 04:39, "(( KT6LN )) via groups.io" <ke6tln@...> wrote: This is very insightful and inspiring, Craig.
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
ismail
On Sat, Feb 8, 2025, 06:09 Craig- KB4RU via groups.io <ki4coa=
[email protected]> wrote:
Hey everyone,
I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few
IC-7000s. One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my dad's
that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being unavailable.
Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's). My
grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a donor
radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined to
fix it. My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on problem.
My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed with
Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module. My desire to fix it
was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad, but
after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.
*KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)*
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed
again. I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors that
were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v. I was afraid this
took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it over,
I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display unit and
turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios. Put
the other screen on mine, and it came back to life. Thank god, easy fix
for the first one. Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and the
other display unit now works and turns the radio on. Looks like one of the
2 caps failed. FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the caps,
they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the display
case. Stick to the 16v.
*Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000* Display Board-
This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had the
47uf 20v Caps described above. Replaced caps and its working as it should
now.
Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the
logic board connection point. Cleaned the char off and found a burnt trace
going to the connector. I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire kept
shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the connector and
make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting worse
until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace. After several hours
trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board for
now. Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the
mainboard as a spare. Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio repairs
is a new learning experience for me.
Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic board.
Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again! I
tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working normally.
DDS- Says No RX, No TX. I have looked all over it with magnifying
glass
and have not found anything appearing damaged. I haven't poked around with
the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and Logic to
see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board. I am not sure how
it was tested to determine it was no good. May have originally come out of
my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio originally
anymore.
*Inspiration for others.*
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their
IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive. I will post
up some pictures of the projects later on. I never attempted to repair
these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and something
I never did before. However, I had the option of try it and see what
happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it sit in
the attic. Glad I did. A lot of this is easier than I expected, and I am
learning a lot as I go along. I have minimal experience fixing radios and
by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair. My dad taught me
the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube. So, don't give up. If
you're determined enough, it can be done.
|
Re: IC-7000 / Clipperton-L Linear
The 7000 manual says for an amp relay not to exceed 16 volts?@ 200mA. I did work on a Clipperton a few years?ago. I don't?remember the current draw but I do remember it was more than 16 volts so you do need some type of amp keying interface. Bob W4JFA
Anything special about connecting a IC-7000 to a Clipperton-L Linear?
|
Re: IC-7000 / Clipperton-L Linear
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Ed,
I don’t have specific information, but an area of concern is the IC7000 circuit that switches the amp from stand-by to operate.? The voltage/current requirements of the amp might exceed the capacity of the IC7000’s switching circuit.? I suggest looking at both manuals to verify the requirements! Robie AJ4F? ? Anything special about connecting a IC-7000 to a Clipperton-L Linear?
|
Re: IC-7000 / Clipperton-L Linear
The IC-7000 has very small relays that do the switching and they are hard to change. I used the MFJ ARB 704 interface box with an Heathkit SB-200.
|
Re: IC-7000 / Clipperton-L Linear
Ed,
I don’t have specific information, but an area of concern is the IC7000 circuit that switches the amp from stand-by to operate. ?The voltage/current requirements of the amp might exceed the capacity of the IC7000’s switching circuit. ?I suggest looking at both manuals to verify the requirements!
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On Feb 10, 2025, at 09:15, Edward Luers via groups.io <eluers2@...> wrote:
? Anything special about connecting a IC-7000 to a Clipperton-L Linear?
|
IC-7000 / Clipperton-L Linear
Anything special about connecting a IC-7000 to a Clipperton-L Linear?
|
Hi, I'm looking for the ic-7000 DSP unit spare part
?
Thanks and 73, Stefano
|
Re: Fixing the unrepairable IC7000
Craig,? ?I've been doing surface mount and through hole repairs for years (40 +).? ??
you? can glue the trace back down with superglue but use an accelerent, epoxy will work, but you have to wait for it to harden, or you can use wire wrap wire 22ga. to replace the trace.? If you have a UV cured glue that may work, I have never tried it though.? ?You will need small tweezers to hold the end while you solder it.? ? Depending on the age of the board you may be dealing with no-lead solder, which requires a higher heat then standard eutectic solder.? ? You can use eutectic solder 63/37 rosin flux, but you need to make sure the board is very clean, 63/37 doesn't like to adhere to the no-lead solders.? I use fingernail polish to re-insulate the trace.? ?They actually make trace repair kits that includes eyelets and traces.? ?They are made by pace worldwide, I believe Jameco carries them.? ?They are pricey tho.? ?Pace also has books that show how to do it.? ?It helps to have a hot-air iron, but not necessary.? ? I have seen some inexpensive vacuum repair systems advertised on FaceBook.? ?Hakko repair systems are good.? ?I learned Pace repair in the Navy in the 70's.? ?Clean the board with 190 proof or better alcohol, I used 200 proof at work, to remove all traces of flux.??
I-fixit is another good resource.? ?You may be able to find information on how to at IPC the set the rules on high reliability repair and manufacture of printed circuit assemblies.? ?I used to order repair parts from Techni-tool, excellent selection and reasonable prices.? ?
?
Side note, from about 2005-2015 the market was flooded with bogus components from china, capacitors were the big gotcha, even though the labels looked good, the insides were trash, electrolytics were the worst, bulged tops, leaking electrolyte, catastrofic failure.? ?
?
pat ne6pg
|
Re: Fixing the unrepairable IC7000
Hi,
When the two 12v tants are nearly all SC after 20 years, if one holds the power on button in for too long this takes the 4R7 resistor on the underside of the logic power supply board. The resistor is 5125 1 Watt device.
I have had over 10 units with this fault some 20v caps will fit
73
Andrew
73
Andrew
?Get BlueMail for Android ?
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On 9 Feb 2025, 04:39, at 04:39, "(( KT6LN )) via groups.io" <ke6tln@...> wrote: This is very insightful and inspiring, Craig.
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
ismail
On Sat, Feb 8, 2025, 06:09 Craig- KB4RU via groups.io <ki4coa=
[email protected]> wrote:
Hey everyone,
I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few
IC-7000s. One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my dad's
that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being unavailable.
Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's). My
grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a donor
radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined to
fix it. My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on problem.
My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed with
Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module. My desire to fix it
was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad, but
after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.
*KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)*
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed
again. I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors that
were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v. I was afraid this
took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it over,
I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display unit and
turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios. Put
the other screen on mine, and it came back to life. Thank god, easy fix
for the first one. Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and the
other display unit now works and turns the radio on. Looks like one of the
2 caps failed. FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the caps,
they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the display
case. Stick to the 16v.
*Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000*
Display Board- This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had the
47uf 20v Caps described above. Replaced caps and its working as it should
now.
Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the
logic board connection point. Cleaned the char off and found a burnt trace
going to the connector. I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire kept
shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the connector and
make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting worse
until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace. After several hours
trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board for
now. Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the
mainboard as a spare. Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio repairs
is a new learning experience for me.
Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic board.
Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again! I
tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working normally.
DDS- Says No RX, No TX. I have looked all over it with magnifying
glass
and have not found anything appearing damaged. I haven't poked around with
the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and Logic to
see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board. I am not sure how
it was tested to determine it was no good. May have originally come out of
my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio originally
anymore.
*Inspiration for others.*
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their
IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive. I will post
up some pictures of the projects later on. I never attempted to repair
these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and something
I never did before. However, I had the option of try it and see what
happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it sit in
the attic. Glad I did. A lot of this is easier than I expected, and I am
learning a lot as I go along. I have minimal experience fixing radios and
by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair. My dad taught me
the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube. So, don't give up. If
you're determined enough, it can be done.
|
Re: Fixing the unrepairable IC7000
This is very insightful and inspiring, Craig.
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
ismail
Hey everyone,
?
I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few IC-7000s.? One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my dad's that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being unavailable.? Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's).? My grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a donor radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined to fix it.? My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on problem.? My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed with Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module.? My desire to fix it was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad, but after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.
?
KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed again.? I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors that were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v.? I was afraid this took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it over, I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display unit and turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios.? Put the other screen on mine, and it came back to life.? Thank god, easy fix for the first one.? Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and the other display unit now works and turns the radio on.? Looks like one of the 2 caps failed.? FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the caps, they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the display case.? Stick to the 16v.
?
Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000
Display Board- This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had the 47uf 20v Caps described above.? Replaced caps and its working as it should now.
?
Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the logic board connection point.? Cleaned the char off and found a burnt trace going to the connector.? I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire kept shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the connector and make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting worse until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace.? After several hours trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board for now.? Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the mainboard as a spare.? Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio repairs is a new learning experience for me.??
?
Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic board.? Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again!? I tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working normally.
?
DDS- Says No RX, No TX.? I have looked all over it with magnifying glass and have not found anything appearing damaged.? I haven't poked around with the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and Logic to see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board.? I am not sure how it was tested to determine it was no good.? May have originally come out of my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio originally anymore.??
?
Inspiration for others.
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive.? I will post up some pictures of the projects later on.? I never attempted to repair these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and something I never did before.? However, I had the option of try it and see what happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it sit in the attic.? Glad I did.? A lot of this is easier than I expected, and I am learning a lot as I go along.? I have minimal experience fixing radios and by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair.? My dad taught me the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube.? So, don't give up.? If you're determined enough, it can be done.
|
Fixing the unrepairable IC7000
Hey everyone,
?
I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few IC-7000s.? One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my dad's that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being unavailable.? Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's).? My grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a donor radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined to fix it.? My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on problem.? My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed with Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module.? My desire to fix it was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad, but after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.
?
KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed again.? I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors that were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v.? I was afraid this took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it over, I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display unit and turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios.? Put the other screen on mine, and it came back to life.? Thank god, easy fix for the first one.? Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and the other display unit now works and turns the radio on.? Looks like one of the 2 caps failed.? FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the caps, they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the display case.? Stick to the 16v.
?
Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000
Display Board- This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had the 47uf 20v Caps described above.? Replaced caps and its working as it should now.
?
Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the logic board connection point.? Cleaned the char off and found a burnt trace going to the connector.? I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire kept shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the connector and make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting worse until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace.? After several hours trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board for now.? Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the mainboard as a spare.? Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio repairs is a new learning experience for me.??
?
Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic board.? Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again!? I tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working normally.
?
DDS- Says No RX, No TX.? I have looked all over it with magnifying glass and have not found anything appearing damaged.? I haven't poked around with the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and Logic to see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board.? I am not sure how it was tested to determine it was no good.? May have originally come out of my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio originally anymore.??
?
Inspiration for others.
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive.? I will post up some pictures of the projects later on.? I never attempted to repair these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and something I never did before.? However, I had the option of try it and see what happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it sit in the attic.? Glad I did.? A lot of this is easier than I expected, and I am learning a lot as I go along.? I have minimal experience fixing radios and by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair.? My dad taught me the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube.? So, don't give up.? If you're determined enough, it can be done.
|
Re: IC7000 no HF Transmit
I appreciate all the instructions and advice from Andrew, JD and James. ?
It has been a few days since I last did any testing. ? So far, I have found nothing that is causing the output power to be so low. ?
I did go back and check the DRIVER/FINAL IDLING CURRENT as defined in section 4-4 of the service manual.? The idle current is set to 2.5A for the driver and HF-1 and HF-2.? Then I checked the voltage at the base of each PA transistor.? I observed the following:
Q301 = 4.3V Q302 = 2.4 V
What can cause these to be different? ? I do see that the output signal at each drain is not a clean sign wave. ?(See attached). Then, the combined signal at the output of transformer L305 seems to show two out of phase signals.
Any suggestions?
Thanks again Tommy KF4RWG I have done a little more troubleshooting around the LPF final filter section.? I unplugged the cable from the main board to the PA.? I set the freq to 14.2 MHz.? I separated the output of L305 transformer and injected a 14.2 signal into C327 and looked at ant1 with a scope.? When I pushed tx the signal is seen at a reduced level at ant1.? I also saw the signal reduce at the input when tx is activated.? The signal level was 7 volts and is reduced to 3.5 volts when tx is activated.
I also saw 0 ohm resistance of the tx path of the RL801 at tx.? I also saw 0 ohms resistance inward side of C327 and C972 at tx.
I just chose 14.2 but all the filter paths are similar.
Please provide comments and suggestions.
Thanks Tommy
20% high does not sound too bad!!
It is when they drop low and you lose 90% will be the issue.
73
Andrew
?Get BlueMail for Android ?
On 30 Jan 2025, 20:28, at 20:28, "Tommy Wooten via " <kf4rwg=[email protected]> wrote:
>JD
>I think Andrew suggested that capacitors may be the issue.? There are
>two
>large smt capacitors in the filter section after the PA section.? I
>removed
>these and measured them.? The result is as follows:
>C327 = 942 nF
>C972 = 811 nF
>
>These are rated at 680 nF and measure 20 to 30% high in value.
>
>I will check other caps in the path before the driver.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Tommy
>
>
>
>
>On Wed, Jan 29, 2025 at 1:02?PM J.D. Barron via
><jeter.d.barron=
>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> RL801 may not be making good contact. You can check the levels with
>your
>> scope. I would use SSB and whistle in the Mike for tracing to keep
>the
>> power dissipation low.
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 29, 2025, 11:51?AM J.D. Barron via
><jeter.d.barron=
>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Take a good look at RL801
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jan 29, 2025, 11:06?AM Tommy Wooten via <kf4rwg=
>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>> JD
>>>>
>>>> I was able to access each of the relay leads from the top side of
>the PA
>>>> board.? I found that each relay had the 14VR supplied at the relay
>coil.
>>>> The voltage is 10.5V and falls to 9.2V when tx is activated.? I
>verified
>>>> that L1 thru L7 leads were 10.5V and dropped to 130mV (gnd) when
>activated
>>>> by the appropriate band selection.? PHT8 at RL801 acted same when
>tx is
>>>> activated.
>>>> All gnd readings were 130mV except RL941 read 363mV as an
>observation.
>>>> All relays seem to click appropriately when each band was selected.
>>>> I cannot access IC981 since it is on the bottom side of PA.? But
>from
>>>> the info above it indicates it is working correctly.
>>>>
>>>> This does not explain why I was able to see 6W at the output of
>L305 but
>>>> I see negligible power when it passes through the filters.? There
>must be a
>>>> short or open in path.
>>>>
>>>> No smoking gun yet!
>>>>
>>>> I won’t stop until I find the issue or tear something up.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Tommy
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2025 at 5:45?PM J.D. Barron via
>>>> <jeter.d.barron=[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> (PA 1) The RF comes from L305? through HF03 to RL-801 (PA 2)
>(changes
>>>>> from orange to blue and out through (A). to
>>>>> (PA 3) the bandpass filters. There are a pair of relays that have
>to be
>>>>> energized for each frequency band. The input relays are controlled
>by L1 -
>>>>> L7 (Bus line 3) from the (PA 3) Q980 - Q987 by the outputs from
>IC981.
>>>>> (Powered by 3R3V)
>>>>>
>>>>> 14 VR provides the operating voltage for these relays and the
>output
>>>>> relays. (At this point I have to say I have not looked long enough
>and hard
>>>>> enough to understand how the output relays are activated but they
>must be.)
>>>>> as each band is selected by L1 - L7 going low.
>>>>> VR14 comes from RL701 output through L981 and resistors R1002 (150
>ohm)
>>>>> and 1003 (180 ohm) (paralleled). This line also provides power to
>RL801
>>>>> which would also stop the RF power from getting to the bandpass
>filters
>>>>> HF03 (Orange) to A (Blue). If R1002 and R1003 were open this would
>cause
>>>>> this problem as well. One of the anti-flyback diodes shorted could
>take out
>>>>> these resistors
>>>>>
>>>>> I think that as each L1 - L7 goes low that low is transferred via
>the
>>>>> blue line to the normally closed contact on the relay below to
>ground on
>>>>> the unenergized relay (I think).
>>>>>
>>>>> I would verify that the VR14 voltage is present first and then -
>if
>>>>> present
>>>>>
>>>>> I would look for the L1 - L7 signals being pulled low by Q980 -
>Q987.
>>>>> end then If switching I would look to
>>>>> The outputs on IC981.
>>>>>
>>>>> I believe you will find the problem in this area as you are
>drawing
>>>>> current indicating power being produced (unless the current is not
>in the
>>>>> 1-3 Amp range in SSB no modulation idling current).
>>>>>
>>>>> Since the power is not going through L961 the FOR / REV (SWR)
>>>>> transformer and being read by IC060 (JFOR) the RF drive is going
>to the
>>>>> point of current limit and cannot be adjusted in any carrier mode
>with the
>>>>> power adjustment.
>>>>>
>>>>> Just my best guess without making some measurements, but this is
>where
>>>>> I would start.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck and best regards.
>>>>>
>>>>>? JD
>>>>> KE4MD
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
|
Re: IC7000 no HF Transmit
I appreciate all the instructions and advice from Andrew, JD and James. ?
It has been a few days since I last did any testing. ? So far, I have found nothing that is causing the output power to be so low. ?
I did go back and check the DRIVER/FINAL IDLING CURRENT as defined in section 4-4 of the service manual.? The idle current is set to 2.5A for the driver and HF-1 and HF-2.? Then I checked the voltage at the base of each PA transistor.? I observed the following:
Q301 = 4.3V Q302 = 2.4 V
What can cause these to be different? ? I do see that the output signal at each drain is not a clean sign wave. ?(See attached). Then, the combined signal at the output of transformer L305 seems to show two out of phase signals.
Any suggestions?
Thanks again Tommy KF4RWG
I have done a little more troubleshooting around the LPF final filter section.? I unplugged the cable from the main board to the PA.? I set the freq to 14.2 MHz.? I separated the output of L305 transformer and injected a 14.2 signal into C327 and looked at ant1 with a scope.? When I pushed tx the signal is seen at a reduced level at ant1.? I also saw the signal reduce at the input when tx is activated.? The signal level was 7 volts and is reduced to 3.5 volts when tx is activated.
I also saw 0 ohm resistance of the tx path of the RL801 at tx.? I also saw 0 ohms resistance inward side of C327 and C972 at tx.
I just chose 14.2 but all the filter paths are similar.
Please provide comments and suggestions.
Thanks Tommy
20% high does not sound too bad!!
It is when they drop low and you lose 90% will be the issue.
73
Andrew
?Get BlueMail for Android ?
On 30 Jan 2025, 20:28, at 20:28, "Tommy Wooten via " <kf4rwg=[email protected]> wrote:
>JD
>I think Andrew suggested that capacitors may be the issue.? There are
>two
>large smt capacitors in the filter section after the PA section.? I
>removed
>these and measured them.? The result is as follows:
>C327 = 942 nF
>C972 = 811 nF
>
>These are rated at 680 nF and measure 20 to 30% high in value.
>
>I will check other caps in the path before the driver.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Tommy
>
>
>
>
>On Wed, Jan 29, 2025 at 1:02?PM J.D. Barron via
><jeter.d.barron=
>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> RL801 may not be making good contact. You can check the levels with
>your
>> scope. I would use SSB and whistle in the Mike for tracing to keep
>the
>> power dissipation low.
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 29, 2025, 11:51?AM J.D. Barron via
><jeter.d.barron=
>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Take a good look at RL801
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jan 29, 2025, 11:06?AM Tommy Wooten via <kf4rwg=
>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>> JD
>>>>
>>>> I was able to access each of the relay leads from the top side of
>the PA
>>>> board.? I found that each relay had the 14VR supplied at the relay
>coil.
>>>> The voltage is 10.5V and falls to 9.2V when tx is activated.? I
>verified
>>>> that L1 thru L7 leads were 10.5V and dropped to 130mV (gnd) when
>activated
>>>> by the appropriate band selection.? PHT8 at RL801 acted same when
>tx is
>>>> activated.
>>>> All gnd readings were 130mV except RL941 read 363mV as an
>observation.
>>>> All relays seem to click appropriately when each band was selected.
>>>> I cannot access IC981 since it is on the bottom side of PA.? But
>from
>>>> the info above it indicates it is working correctly.
>>>>
>>>> This does not explain why I was able to see 6W at the output of
>L305 but
>>>> I see negligible power when it passes through the filters.? There
>must be a
>>>> short or open in path.
>>>>
>>>> No smoking gun yet!
>>>>
>>>> I won’t stop until I find the issue or tear something up.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Tommy
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2025 at 5:45?PM J.D. Barron via
>>>> <jeter.d.barron=[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> (PA 1) The RF comes from L305? through HF03 to RL-801 (PA 2)
>(changes
>>>>> from orange to blue and out through (A). to
>>>>> (PA 3) the bandpass filters. There are a pair of relays that have
>to be
>>>>> energized for each frequency band. The input relays are controlled
>by L1 -
>>>>> L7 (Bus line 3) from the (PA 3) Q980 - Q987 by the outputs from
>IC981.
>>>>> (Powered by 3R3V)
>>>>>
>>>>> 14 VR provides the operating voltage for these relays and the
>output
>>>>> relays. (At this point I have to say I have not looked long enough
>and hard
>>>>> enough to understand how the output relays are activated but they
>must be.)
>>>>> as each band is selected by L1 - L7 going low.
>>>>> VR14 comes from RL701 output through L981 and resistors R1002 (150
>ohm)
>>>>> and 1003 (180 ohm) (paralleled). This line also provides power to
>RL801
>>>>> which would also stop the RF power from getting to the bandpass
>filters
>>>>> HF03 (Orange) to A (Blue). If R1002 and R1003 were open this would
>cause
>>>>> this problem as well. One of the anti-flyback diodes shorted could
>take out
>>>>> these resistors
>>>>>
>>>>> I think that as each L1 - L7 goes low that low is transferred via
>the
>>>>> blue line to the normally closed contact on the relay below to
>ground on
>>>>> the unenergized relay (I think).
>>>>>
>>>>> I would verify that the VR14 voltage is present first and then -
>if
>>>>> present
>>>>>
>>>>> I would look for the L1 - L7 signals being pulled low by Q980 -
>Q987.
>>>>> end then If switching I would look to
>>>>> The outputs on IC981.
>>>>>
>>>>> I believe you will find the problem in this area as you are
>drawing
>>>>> current indicating power being produced (unless the current is not
>in the
>>>>> 1-3 Amp range in SSB no modulation idling current).
>>>>>
>>>>> Since the power is not going through L961 the FOR / REV (SWR)
>>>>> transformer and being read by IC060 (JFOR) the RF drive is going
>to the
>>>>> point of current limit and cannot be adjusted in any carrier mode
>with the
>>>>> power adjustment.
>>>>>
>>>>> Just my best guess without making some measurements, but this is
>where
>>>>> I would start.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck and best regards.
>>>>>
>>>>>? JD
>>>>> KE4MD
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
|
Icom 7000 and 7300 as I have both work down to 12V reliably.
They get fussy at? around 11.8V.? ?That however is measured
at the rear panel connector.? Long wires and fuse issues even
at 13.8 can easily mean your low at the connector.
?
Note, I take the stock cable and cut it close to the radio and
put 30A power poles on that stub and the wires to battery
are #10 with high speed circuit breakers identical to the
one tentec used.? So voltage loss to wire and connections
are minimized.? When time permits the 7000 will get a
rear panel replacement for the Icom connector to
PowerPole.?
?
The spec is 13.8 +-15% means 11.73V when at the minus side?
and it means at the connector, not at the beginning of
6ft+ of cable.
?
But most lead acid without boost converter (or engine
running in a car/truck) can easily sag below acceptable
voltage level.
?
FYI I use solar/battery to run my station.? Thats 400W of
solar and 150AH of battery (floodded industrial NiCds)
so the DC bus is nominally 13.5V or slightly higher
normally.? Even after a contest weekend in january I've
never seen the battery below 12.9V (with 10 inches
of snow on the panels).? Never had issues.? Under those
conditions due to very direct connections, heavy wire( #10),
and mechanically secure fuses so the back of the radio
voltage is more doesn't drop far.? In my system .4V drop
is cause for alarm!??
?
For my FD battery a 100Ah LFE voltage like the NiCd
mentioned is not an issue until the battery is drained
to 80% depth of discharge, takes a lot of hours to get
to that point.?
?
When I ran lead acid batteries it was a issue as terminal
voltage for a charged battery was about? 13.1-13.2 and
could be as low as 12.7V which is close to safe low
limit.? At full power (21A measured) the 100Ah lead
acid battery would sag to under 12V.? Battery voltage
booster was a must to use at least 60% capacity.
?
--
Allison
|
I checked power supply connections. Good. I came across 2 patch cords that had gone south. One was new a year ago. The radio is working as it should. Thank you to all who replied. Now to play on hf. De ve3rng cq!
|
Hi Most Icom radios will not operate on low voltage, i.e. 12.5V lead acid, always feed with 13.8V min. ? Yaesu and Elecraft will go down a bit. ? KR ? Andrew ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike via groups.io
Sent: 03 February 2025 15:31
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Hf tx? The IC-7000 is VERY voltage sensitive.? I had the exact same problem.? The very nice and competent gentleman at the St. Joseph Icom Service Center set me straight.? The 7000 needs 13.6v.? Use a power supply that delivers 13.6 in TX. ? On Mon, Feb 3, 2025 at 4:41 AM, Bob via groups.io Try into dummy load. Try lower power. ? check the fuse holder connections.. ? I've owned my 7000 since new. Recently upon attempting to TX on hf the radio re-starts. Any ideas before I send it off? Tried different antennas same result. Haven't tried vhf or uhf.
|
The IC-7000 is VERY voltage sensitive.? I had the exact same problem.? The very nice and competent gentleman at the St. Joseph Icom Service Center set me straight.? The 7000 needs 13.6v.? Use a power supply that delivers 13.6 in TX.
On Mon, Feb 3, 2025 at 4:41 AM, Bob via groups.io <W4JFABob@...> wrote: Try into dummy load. Try lower power. Bob W4JFA? check the fuse holder connections..
vk3zzs geelong
I've owned my 7000 since new. Recently upon attempting to TX on hf the radio re-starts. Any ideas before I send it off? Tried different antennas same result. Haven't tried vhf or uhf.
|
Try into dummy load. Try lower power. Bob W4JFA?
check the fuse holder connections..
vk3zzs geelong
I've owned my 7000 since new. Recently upon attempting to TX on hf the radio re-starts. Any ideas before I send it off? Tried different antennas same result. Haven't tried vhf or uhf.
|
check the fuse holder connections..
vk3zzs geelong
I've owned my 7000 since new. Recently upon attempting to TX on hf the radio re-starts. Any ideas before I send it off? Tried different antennas same result. Haven't tried vhf or uhf.
|
Ok thanks to Jim as well
Get
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Ok I will do that. Thanks
Get
James,
?
Before you do anything, make sure the power supply can handle the transmit current of the rig.? If it did it before, it’s probably fine.
?
And definitely, take out the blade fuses from the DC wires to the radio and reinsert in their sockets.? Repeat x 2.? Corrosion is a major problem on those contacts resulting in increased
resistance and voltage drop causing the radio to reboot when transmitting is attempted.
?
‘73 de Jim N2ZZ
?
?
I've owned my 7000 since new. Recently upon attempting to TX on hf the radio re-starts. Any ideas before I send it off? Tried different antennas same result. Haven't tried vhf or uhf.
|
Bob
Edward Luers
Stefano Donati, IV3IPS - II3O
Andrew Lenton
