Craig,? ?I've been doing surface mount and through hole repairs for years (40 +).? ??
you? can glue the trace back down with superglue but use an accelerent, epoxy will work, but you have to wait for it to harden, or you can use wire wrap wire 22ga. to replace the trace.? If you have a UV cured glue that may work, I have never tried it though.? ?You will need small tweezers to hold the end while you solder it.? ? Depending on the age of the board you may be dealing with no-lead solder, which requires a higher heat then standard eutectic solder.? ? You can use eutectic solder 63/37 rosin flux, but you need to make sure the board is very clean, 63/37 doesn't like to adhere to the no-lead solders.? I use fingernail polish to re-insulate the trace.? ?They actually make trace repair kits that includes eyelets and traces.? ?They are made by pace worldwide, I believe Jameco carries them.? ?They are pricey tho.? ?Pace also has books that show how to do it.? ?It helps to have a hot-air iron, but not necessary.? ? I have seen some inexpensive vacuum repair systems advertised on FaceBook.? ?Hakko repair systems are good.? ?I learned Pace repair in the Navy in the 70's.? ?Clean the board with 190 proof or better alcohol, I used 200 proof at work, to remove all traces of flux.??
I-fixit is another good resource.? ?You may be able to find information on how to at IPC the set the rules on high reliability repair and manufacture of printed circuit assemblies.? ?I used to order repair parts from Techni-tool, excellent selection and reasonable prices.? ?
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Side note, from about 2005-2015 the market was flooded with bogus components from china, capacitors were the big gotcha, even though the labels looked good, the insides were trash, electrolytics were the worst, bulged tops, leaking electrolyte, catastrofic failure.? ?
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