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Re: New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
Alan Marconett KM6VV
Hi Derek,
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I did a quick search for PcLogic, got a .dk, do you have a URL? Or is it just in French/German? Alan KM6VV High Tech wrote:
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Re: New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
High Tech
I didn't find Eagle that user friendly but that was a few version back. I
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will give it a shot again but the French program and the PcLogic, which I purchased, are simple to use and generate very good boards. Both have Gerber 274x for sending in if you want someone else to make your board. One of the nice features of PcLogic is you can throw some pads down in the middle of your drawing.Then you can draw the outline of the part and with a few clicks make that a part and name it. For $25 you can't beat it for the lite version if you don't need autorouter. The French program is for people getting started and need something simple and free. Everyone knows where the File is at the top, all windows programs are the same in general and numbers are numbers a Lm339 is a Lm339 in French. Derek -----Original Message-----
From: Alan Marconett KM6VV [mailto:KM6VV@...] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 11:44 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@... Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs Hi Derek, For English, why not just use Eagle? There are board size restrictions. Alan KM6VV High Tech wrote: > > Here is the manual us English speaking people have to use the Babel fish to > convert it. > > Babel fish web trans: > > Derek > -----Original Message----- > From: High Tech [mailto:hightechsystems@...] > Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 9:47 PM > To: Homebrew_PCBs@... > Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs > > Steve > The web link is in the bookmarks. It is Freeware from the author Bruno > Urbani's web site > > > Derek To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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Re: New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
Alan Marconett KM6VV
Hi Derek,
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For English, why not just use Eagle? There are board size restrictions. Alan KM6VV High Tech wrote:
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PIC Sig
Jason -
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Just in case you are not aware of the PicList, here is the link for information: This was a very active list. Many experts willing to share. I got busy and had to unsubscribe, but I am sure it is still a valuable resource, in case you were not aware of it. Mike Message: 3 |
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Re: Blue Sheets
ROBERT L BOZARTH JR.
I would like to try some, I need practice. What is your email address so I
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can send you my mailing address? Bob Bozarth ----- Original Message -----
From: "High Tech" <hightechsystems@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@...> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 12:45 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue Sheets I have quite a few blue-sheets that have PCB designs on them. They haveget your ironing skills down before you use a good sheet. Just use Lacquer |
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Re: New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
High Tech
Here is the manual us English speaking people have to use the Babel fish to
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convert it. Babel fish web trans: Derek -----Original Message-----
From: High Tech [mailto:hightechsystems@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 9:47 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@... Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs Steve The web link is in the bookmarks. It is Freeware from the author Bruno Urbani's web site Derek -----Original Message----- From: Steve Greenfield [mailto:alienrelics@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 8:53 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@... Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs So... tell us about this. Freeware, shareware, crack? BTW, no one here should -ever- need to feel offended if I ask you this. It is akin to being asked for your picture ID when paying by check- it is for all our protection. I'd prefer a version of this in English. Where is this from? IE, do you have a weblink? Steve, moderator --- Homebrew_PCBs@... wrote: > > Hello, > > This email message is a notification to let you know > that > a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the > Homebrew_PCBs > group. > > File : /PCB Software/TC1-3/tcizip.exe > Uploaded by : hightechsystems1 > <hightechsystems@...> > Description : Free PCB layout Software in French > not crippled has gerber too __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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Re: New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
High Tech
Steve
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The web link is in the bookmarks. It is Freeware from the author Bruno Urbani's web site Derek -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Greenfield [mailto:alienrelics@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 8:53 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@... Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs So... tell us about this. Freeware, shareware, crack? BTW, no one here should -ever- need to feel offended if I ask you this. It is akin to being asked for your picture ID when paying by check- it is for all our protection. I'd prefer a version of this in English. Where is this from? IE, do you have a weblink? Steve, moderator --- Homebrew_PCBs@... wrote: > > Hello, > > This email message is a notification to let you know > that > a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the > Homebrew_PCBs > group. > > File : /PCB Software/TC1-3/tcizip.exe > Uploaded by : hightechsystems1 > <hightechsystems@...> > Description : Free PCB layout Software in French > not crippled has gerber too __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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Other uses for Blue Sheets
High Tech
I was messing around with all these old blue sheets.
Then I thought about others that wanted to silk-screen the component side of the board. So I took the old Blue sheet and ironed on the finished component side. Sure enough it sticks better on the bare PCB than on copper and has a nice blue lettering. I used scotch bright on it and it doesn't come off just lightened up. It didn't stick where there were holes, so you need to put it on before you drill. I'd have to say blue sheets work great as a cheap silk screen. Derek |
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Re: New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
So... tell us about this. Freeware, shareware, crack?
BTW, no one here should -ever- need to feel offended if I ask you this. It is akin to being asked for your picture ID when paying by check- it is for all our protection. I'd prefer a version of this in English. Where is this from? IE, do you have a weblink? Steve, moderator --- Homebrew_PCBs@... wrote:
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! |
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New file uploaded to Homebrew_PCBs
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Homebrew_PCBs group. File : /PCB Software/TC1-3/tcizip.exe Uploaded by : hightechsystems1 <hightechsystems@...> Description : Free PCB layout Software in French not crippled has gerber too You can access this file at the URL To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit Regards, hightechsystems1 <hightechsystems@...> |
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homebrew vias?
How do other folks handle
vias on double sided pcbs? I have tried two methods 1. WIRE Place a hole close to each via and use this to solder in a piece of wire. I put a letter "v" in copper on the bottom side of board next to the hole so I can quickly check that all the vias are taken care of. Of course this means you have to drill more pcb holes. 2. INSERTS I got some gold plated MillMax inserts that fit into a drill hole and are hollow and big enough for typical resistor and dip leads. I think the OD is about 0.039". You have to be careful when you solder them in because the solder tends to wick into the hole. I do not have the part number now and the last time I looked no one (Digikey has some MillMax) was carrying them. This seems to be the neatist solution to the hombrew via problem. However I only have a few left, so I will have to find another source. If I have to buy thousands, is anyone interested in a group buy? Comments? Dave The Inexpensive Seismometer Project |
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Blue Sheets
High Tech
I have quite a few blue-sheets that have PCB designs on them. They have
mistakes in the routes so I could not use them. If someone would like a sheet or two let me know. This is a good way to get your ironing skills down before you use a good sheet. Just use Lacquer thinner to remove the traces and use the board again. Or if someone knows how to remove the toner from the blue sheet without hurting the sheet let me know. Derek |
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Re: Removing the paper with the transfer method
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "bhowden1" <bhowden@b...> wrote:
I have been playing with the various types of paper . . . . TheI use Dyna Art. The paper just floats off in mildly warm water after ironing. IIRC, this paper is coated with a a layer of sugar, so that might be the secret. Perhaps you could experiment by spraying your paper with a solution of sugar in water, and letting it dry before using it. My second question is if anybody knows of a way to get the printerThere is a way in my printer software (I have a Panasonic KXP-6500) to specify greater toner density. I'd call HP printer support and ask them if this is possible with your machine. The other option is to look for denser toner. I understand it is made, apparently for use in printing graphics, but I don't know where to look for it. There are lots of toner supply companies on the net and elsewhere. Or perhaps a copy house which also does laser printing could tell you. Grant |
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Removing the paper with the transfer method
bhowden1
I have been playing with the various types of paper I can find
(coated, shiny, plastic foils etc). So far I have had the best luck with an 80lb plain polished paper (it is quite shiny but no coating I can detect). The combination that has worked the best is preheat the board for 3 minutes and iron with gentle pressure (ie a little more than the weight of the iron) for 30 seconds. The problem I am having is getting the paper off when I have finished ironing. If I soak it overnight I am fine but I would like to speed up the softening process. Any suggestions? I was thinking of boiling water but I suspect that will soften the toner to much. Are there any safe chemicals that will soften the paper but not destroy the copper or my kitchen? My second question is if anybody knows of a way to get the printer to deposit more toner. I am using an HP 1200 laserjet (which is great) but I am getting better results if I run the paper through twice. The problem with this is I don't always get perfect registration. Brian |
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Re: Using HP GL/2 - direct printing etc.
Uh, you don't want to make this a competition. Only reason I wouldn't beat both of you is on a technicality, as mine isn't a darkroom.
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Caveteursus, thanks! I'm adding this to the Links section. BTW, if you post it with in front then it is a clickable link for most mail programs. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "Daryl Owen" <picstuff@m...> wrote:
I would like you to correct some of the info on your web page. |
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Re: Using HP GL/2 - direct printing etc.
Daryl Owen
I would like you to correct some of the info on your web page.
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The following: "World's Messiest Darkroom/Electronics Laboratory" should read "World's 2nd Messiest Darkroom/Electronics Laboratory" Daryl -----Original Message-----
From: caveteursus [mailto:j.walton@...] Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 6:03 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@... Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Using HP GL/2 - direct printing etc. I posted quite a few pages, there's more to do, but you will get the idea. It's on www.tech-diy.com you can play around with the codes, create a "*.txt" file and send it with the following commands: mode com1:9600,n,8,1,p copy myfile.txt com1 I use WordPad instead of NotePad, as WordPad has "find and replace"..9.3I've taken apart some of the Gerber files generated by Ultiboard -- they can be quite simplified -- the most annoying and time consuming is the AA -- arc absolute -- in Ultiboard a 1% angle is specified -- this can and should be changed using "find and replace" in Wordpad. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to |
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Using HP GL/2 - direct printing etc.
caveteursus
I posted quite a few pages, there's more to do, but you will get the
idea. It's on www.tech-diy.com you can play around with the codes, create a "*.txt" file and send it with the following commands: mode com1:9600,n,8,1,p copy myfile.txt com1 I use WordPad instead of NotePad, as WordPad has "find and replace". I've taken apart some of the Gerber files generated by Ultiboard -- they can be quite simplified -- the most annoying and time consuming is the AA -- arc absolute -- in Ultiboard a 1% angle is specified -- this can and should be changed using "find and replace" in Wordpad. |
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Re: Print on copper
you can also use the 'rolling paper' type plotters to plot directly onto
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the board ,I used to do this on my old HP ColorPro cut a piece of heavy paper (construction paper or Manila folder) to fit the full width of the paper tray (a little over 8.5") and don't let the plotter release it between the test plot and the board plot I used Eagle to generate the HPGL code for the outline (dimension) layer bottom traces and top silk (single sided boards) then transfered the .plt files to a DOS boot floppy for an ancient XT era laptop the plotter was hooked up to use the mode command to configure the serial port A:\>mode COM1:9600,N,8,1,P and send the test file to the plotter with A:\>type outline.plt > com1 this plots the board outline on the paper use double stick tape to fix the board over the outline and plot the traces with A:\>type bottom.plt > com1 etch the board flip it over and plot the silk layer the same way the plotter does not release the paper between plots so it wont lose its position the way it would with the windoze drivers you may also want to edit the .plt files so it only uses one pen and set the speed (velocity) fairly slow say 4 cm/sec with SP1;VS4: this helps keep the pens from clogging and lays down a thicker coat of ink I used extra fine point Sharpies in a drilled out pen body Brian Hi Steve and list- |
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Re: Print on copper
I did look at the links on direct plotting PCB's, and discovered that
it is possible with some non-flatbed plotters to stick a PCB on a heavy piece of paper and plot right on the PCB. My previous post missed that point. I don't know if all such plotters will do so, does anyone else? Obviously the direct to PCB plot is the way to go compared to the method Jan Axelson mentions (plot to copper, then stick copper on PCB substrate). --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "grantfair2001" <grant.fair@s...> wrote: But, if someone does not have a flat-bed plotter, but does have theGrant |
Steven Greenfield AE7HD
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