开云体育

I have EasyPc V5.0 - works well for me...had Quick Route 4.0 before that
(actually - I still have it - any offers?), and didn't get along with it

How much for a kind Brazilian looking for a nice proggie? :o)


---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

Alexandre Souza
taito@...


---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

Although it is nice to get an honest opinion of
EasyPC, I don't want this to turn into a group for
ads.

What does everyone think? Ban ads? Ads allowed only on
one day a month, like some other lists? Free-for-all?

A quote from the auction: "I'm hoping I'm not the only
idiot in the world for buying this trash! I don't
know, may be you think Easy-PC is the best thing since
sliced bread, in which case you now have the
opportunity to waste your money and help me recover
some of my loss. The Easy-PC program sucks. ! I want
rid of it."

Steve

--- electronic_workshop <hans@...>
wrote:

=====
Steve Greenfield // Digital photo scanning, retouching,
Polymorph Digital Photography // and photomorphing to your specs.
253/318-2473 voice // We use the best little computer in
polymorph@... // the world, the Amiga!
// Based in Tacoma, WA, USA

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4 5 6

I have EasyPc V5.0 - works well for me...had Quick Route 4.0 before that (actually - I still have it - any offers?), and didn't get along with it at all. Easy PC was a vast improvement!

Regards,
Tony

Test 1 2 3

I know it is too complex to have a price sheet, but how about a rough
estimate for some example designs?

Steve
moderator

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "scuba6us" <scuba6us@y...> wrote:

At Bullock Design Center, we specialize in turning your ideas into
products. Using state of the art software and years of engineering
expertise, we can design any hardware you can imagine. From DC

power

supplies to wireless communication systems and from battery holders
to complex housing we can do it all.

PCB design, schematic capture, sheet metal, plastic, component
sourcing, prototyping and working with other manufacturers are some
of the services that we offer.

Please visit us at

www.bullock-designs.com

Thank you,
Ryan Bullock

At Bullock Design Center, we specialize in turning your ideas into
products. Using state of the art software and years of engineering
expertise, we can design any hardware you can imagine. From DC power
supplies to wireless communication systems and from battery holders
to complex housing we can do it all.

PCB design, schematic capture, sheet metal, plastic, component
sourcing, prototyping and working with other manufacturers are some
of the services that we offer.

Please visit us at

www.bullock-designs.com

Thank you,
Ryan Bullock

Note that it is extremely important to coat the
boards after etching with something (floor wax!)
that keeps them from oxidizing and allows good
solder flow.

I've been using Mar-Hyde clear lacquer (spray can) for this purpose. It
leaves extremely thin coating which doesn't make any problems for soldering
while completely eliminates corrosion. Works great for many years.


KPL

I find the main reason for the sharpest
tracks is to run traces between pins.
All other traces should be made as
wide as possible to minimize the
possible problems is gaps or
smearing of traces.

To go between pins you usually need 10 or 12 mil
traces. I have no problem doing them
by laser printing or copying pcb images onto
plain paper, ironing onto standard copper
clad boards, soaking the paper off, and then
etching in a warm bath.
Here is how I do it.

Note that it is extremely important to coat the
boards after etching with something (floor wax!)
that keeps them from oxidizing and allows good
solder flow.

Ciao,

Dave
The Inexpesive Seismometer Project

Sharpest tracks for me were with lith film (Ilford)-- I use this for
unsharp masks for BW negatives so I always have some on hand. I do
almost all my stuff now using Avery Clear Full Sheet Labels (when I
am in a hurry) or Xerox mylar film. With the avery labels I usually
use 20 mils as the smallest trace width -- going to 10 mils I find is
chancy.

Hello Russell,

Wednesday, January 30, 2002, 01:14:08, you wrote:



RS> JanRwl@... wrote:

In a message dated 29-Jan-02 03:00:04 Central Standard Time,
rjshaw@... writes:

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

When I need best I can do without having a pro-shop do etching, I use
contact-printing of negatives with Kepro stuff.??? But I haven't done a
home-brew "photographic" in so long I don't even know what the various
solutions were called!

I have done nothing more complex than a 6-IC little lashup in years, and I
get by with Radio Shack and whoevermailorderitwas "pressure sensitive"
"rub-on" stuff.??? That works really fine, if done right, actually!

RS> I was wondering how much resolution the various
RS> methods get. I've found the best printers are
RS> epson stylus colour inkjets (400 and higher),
RS> used with epson transparencies (its coated
RS> with an absorbing layer instead of 'sandpaper').
RS> Using a lightbox etc, i can get 6-8mil tracks
RS> and spacing. Works with precoated negative
RS> boards, and spray-on positive resist (PRP).

RS> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor




RS> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RS> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@...



RS> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to theYahoo! Terms of Service.



And I replied:

Photographic method preferred. I use positive precoated boards and
have a frend with typesetter who is producing the positive artwork for
my boards. It is the cheapest method. The 3 sqft of artwork costs
approx $4, and those 3 sqft ia a lot of boards!

So compared with the price of Epson transpaerncies+ink cartridges (the
most expensive part - printers are el cheapo, consumables are the
company lives on), Someone's typesetter is the best choice.

--
Best Regards,
Zoran, Belgrade, YU
mailto:zasto@...

JanRwl@... wrote:

In a message dated 29-Jan-02 03:00:04 Central Standard Time,
rjshaw@... writes:

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

When I need best I can do without having a pro-shop do etching, I use
contact-printing of negatives with Kepro stuff. But I haven't done a
home-brew "photographic" in so long I don't even know what the various
solutions were called!

I have done nothing more complex than a 6-IC little lashup in years, and I
get by with Radio Shack and whoevermailorderitwas "pressure sensitive"
"rub-on" stuff. That works really fine, if done right, actually!

I was wondering how much resolution the various
methods get. I've found the best printers are
epson stylus colour inkjets (400 and higher),
used with epson transparencies (its coated
with an absorbing layer instead of 'sandpaper').
Using a lightbox etc, i can get 6-8mil tracks
and spacing. Works with precoated negative
boards, and spray-on positive resist (PRP).

In a message dated 29-Jan-02 03:00:04 Central Standard Time,
rjshaw@... writes:

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

When I need best I can do without having a pro-shop do etching, I use
contact-printing of negatives with Kepro stuff. But I haven't done a
home-brew "photographic" in so long I don't even know what the various
solutions were called!

I have done nothing more complex than a 6-IC little lashup in years, and I
get by with Radio Shack and whoevermailorderitwas "pressure sensitive"
"rub-on" stuff. That works really fine, if done right, actually!

Jan Rowland, Old Troll

--- Russell Shaw <rjshaw@...> wrote:

Hi all,

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

I've never done PCB milling, but I have done
photographic. And it is very sharp and professional
looking, professional looking as your mask. I've used
both positive precoated boards and spray-it-yourself
negative. Both have good and bad points, mostly
overcome by computer aided drafting.

I've used drafting tape and those rub-on shapes, and
I've used photocopies on mylar but I usually had to
repair the masks (pinholes). Anyone remember that blue
film? It was on a backing and you cut out parts of it
with an Xacto knife to create a mask. A real pain in
the neck, I hated the stuff. Just try and cut out IC
pads with an Xacto.

Steve Greenfield


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Hi all,

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

I've made a little test and have found another permanent marker that works
better for me.
It is Faber-Castell, OHP-PLUS1523.
In FeCl solution it was still on the copper when Staedler Lumocolor was
allready gone.
Anyway results was not satisfactory, maybe a different kind of solution
required. The copper under the marked lines was damaged a bit.

KPL

In a message dated 28-Jan-02 10:34:57 Central Standard Time,
alienrelics@... writes:

Listed as waterproof and permanent. I'm going to pick
one up and try it. I'll let you know how it works.

DO, please! Jan Rowland

I had been unable to find the specific Staedtler #318
Lumocolor locally.

But I see Office Depot carries a Staedtler Lumocolor
pen meant for marking directly onto non-coated CDs.
Which means ultrasmooth, which means they should work
on copper.

Listed as waterproof and permanent. I'm going to pick
one up and try it. I'll let you know how it works.

Steve

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Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!

They are in the "Drafting" section of STAPLES, not in the "Pens"
section. There is a little kit of 4 with different widths for a
couple bucks.